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The Keyboard Corner
Synths, pianos, software, analog, digital, modeling, virtual instruments, programming tips - this is the place on the web for discussions, debates, opinions and assistance...and the occasional sports thread.
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Trending posts on MPN
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By KuruPrionz · Posted
I will add that in the event you need another, longer piece of wire to connect anything, make certain you use a multi strand wire and tin the leads (heat with soldering iron and melt a bit of solder onto the multi-strand wire. This will make your job easier and it will assure a solid connection. After soldering, allow the joint to cool down and then try wiggling the wire gently. It should stay put, if it does and the joint is shiny, you're done. -
Dang!! Joey rolling it out total Jimmy Smith style, an amazing organist in a class two steps up from the rest (RIP). Schaffer delivers the Schaffer style way, as always, love his bag too! Not very familiar with the other two Aces but for sure they sound amazing too!! -
I’d get the Montage. My Numa C2X has overly sensitive F# & G# keys above middle C that drive me bonkers. Only really use it to control iOS Organs, now. I still find this very strange keybed rather spongy and when playing near the top levels of velocity it seem to induce a little pain in my fingers, maybe because a weird bounce at the bottom of key travel. I really like having aftertouch for synths, but it has very limited mod destinations internally…vibrato is about it. AT must be turned off on piano and EP’s, but is kind of fun with clav and comping synths. MODX7’s keybed is cheap, plasticky, toy-like, and has little skinny black keys however, it can still be played with great delicacy and decent dynamics for such a light synth action. But ya gotta be accurate. It does bottom out a bit quick but not a terrible landing for cheap, plasticky, toy-like synth keys. It does not inflict pain like the Numa C2X does to me when playing aggressively. The thing that bothers me the most on the MODX is the location of the Volume and USB Volume knobs near the very top of the left-hand side. Is not that it’s a bit of a reach, but that they are prone to damage when transporting in gig bags. My USB volume knob has a terrible wiggle from being knocked about, but still works without the jumpy glitches and scratchiness that my first gen Fantom7 suffers. My other main gigging board is the Roland VR09. Now THAT is a terrible keybed for piano….Ugh! Much prefer the dynamics available with the Yamaha’s cheap, plasticky…yeah, yeah. Although the quick trigger keys of the VR09 make the organ quite enjoyable for me and a very capable gig machine. Lighting fast keys for synth leads, too. Slightly quicker than the Yammie. That dang Roland has been surprisingly durable for over a decade of gigging dirty biker bars, dusty festivals, 100+ degree pool parties, and early spring and late fall outings that we got snowed on a couple of times. I wore out two pitch benders from when I was playing a lot of saxophone and synths, but this that one I got from Syntaur has been solid for many years. I would love to find a used Montage 7 for what I paid for my MODX7…I’d get the Montage. -
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FOUR B3s live on one stage -- is that what heaven is like?!? Watch and LISTEN to this master class on Hammond B3 soloing to this Jimmy Smith tune. Featuring Dr. Lonnie Smith, Doug Riley, Joey DeFrancesco, and Paul Shaffer, all cookin' on the B3s. Old No7 Music starts after 2:00...
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In MPN’s GEARLAB
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By charliepersol · Posted
I just bought one used two days ago. I had in the past (a very past) the original ARP Odissey and an Avatar (the guitar version of the Odissey). They sounded quite differenti, and now I understand why: two different version of the filter. A friend of mine still have the all black one with coloured sliders, which Is again different, maybe two poles filter? Anyway the Behringer sounds good but a bit differenti too. My ARP had a ring modulator I used to build fabolous bell like sounds: metallic, full of harmonics. The kind of sound you can hear on Japan Tin Drum or Oil on Canvas albums. Until now I couldn't recreate this sound. Neither the Avatar did. Just my ARP Odissey I sold for little Money :( -
In V.A.S.T., be it the original V.A.S.T. or the newer vaster V.A.S.T. with Cascade and Dynamic, there are several ways you can use internal DSP sources with Samples: 1. Samples only 2. Internal DSP Oscillators only without any Sample 3. Samples mixed with internal DSP Oscillators In the new V.A.S.T., you can certainly use a multi-sampled Keymap, alongside an internal anti-aliased DSP Osc, e.g. a 2-block SINE+ for a single Layer, or even an aliased one like the old SAW+. For larger AA DSP Oscs, e.g. the 4-block SAW, you'd need to use Cascade Mode, a passthrough signal and a Mixer ALG. So these aren't mutually exclusive. Instead, what the manual seems to indicate is that if you want to do a traditional analogue subtractive synth, then you'd rather not use a Keymap, which makes sense since analogue subtractive synths don't use them at all. You can still use a Keymap's sample Envelope if it is set to Natural, even if the Sample itself isn't sounding via the Layer, say, if you have simply a 4-block AA DSP SAW. That SAW block effectively cuts off any of the Sample signal. However, as the AMPENV mode is set to Natural, it is the factory AMPENV for that multi-Sampled Keymap that is applied to the Layer. The Natural envelopes have more details than can be produced with a User AMPENV. The thing that happens with setting the Keymap to Silence is that it sets each key's amplitude to the same maximum amplitude. Maybe that's what you need in a certain program, but sometimes, if you are doing an emulative program, you could be better off actually referencing the emulation's Keymaps Sample although the latter isn't heard, with the corresponding Natural Envelope, or of course, you could just go into User Mode and make your own envelope. Hope this helps. -
Sweetwater might accept to deliver to Canada, but you will be charged transport accordingly and as anything going USA to Canada your item will go through customs and it is always possible to end up with extra fees - sometimes very expensive. I personally had a very bad experience about 10 years ago and promised myself to never import again from the USA unless the seller confirms on paper he pays for all possible customs and duties extra fees. Buying Kurzweil products in Canada has always been complicated. In the 1990s a few stores in the province kept a couple of them, but if you wanted something they didn't have you had to order sight unseen and wait months to get your purchase. That is how I bought my MIDIboard, K1200 and finally, around 2000, a PC2X. I hated the Fatar action on the PC2X from day one and swore to never buy a keyboard sight unseen ever again.
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