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SK-1 and 2 Tips, Tricks and Other Cool Stuff.


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I really don't see any advantages of using an inline pedal after the output of a keyboard.

A lot of boards only support one expression pedal (if that!), so if you regularly use it for non-volume purposes, it can still be convenient to have a dedicated volume pedal on the output.

 

Also, getting back to organ, there are situations where you might want to maintain the fully saturated distorted sound but back off on the overall level, and it can be nice to be able to do that without needing a hand to reach for some other fader or volume control.

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Ahh ....it's a saturation, overdrive thing...proper gain stage; I like it.

 

Never really knew that before.

 

Soooo is the EXP50 really worth the money being charged? Wouldn't the inside guts be pretty much the same as what's in the FC7? -- ring/tip in/out connections to a pot...or is there an actual circuit in the Hammond pedal?

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The Exp 50 is well built and may have a larger arc of travel than the FC7 or other pedals (although I don't know if it does). It doesn't have the light bulb and photoreceptor electronics like the Exp-100f.

 

The Expression pedal can be set to control expression and overdrive in a variety of ways (pg. 88 #2). Also, the expression curve (pg.78 #10) selected will also affect the way the overdrive increases/decreases as the pedal moves.

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I own the EXP50 and posted earlier about it in this thread. It's definitely an improvement over the FC7 in terms of egonomics (arc of travel) and available nuance. Whether it's worth the extra money is kind of tough question to answer, because the FC7 works pretty well. But if you want the best feeling you can get in an expression pedal for the SK, get the EXP50.

Gigging: Crumar Mojo 61, Hammond SKPro

Home: Vintage Vibe 64

 

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Thanks -- sounds like more of an ergonomic thing btwn the two as opposed to an actual electrical difference.

 

Has anyone either opened up one or both of these pedals and looked at the internal components or used a DVM to measure/compare the resistance values between the EXP50 and other pedals?

 

$200 plus for what seems like a simple passive mechanical pedal dznt quite compute for me; plus those mech pots always seem to crud up and sound lousy.

 

I also have an old optical Morley that is super quiet and dznt color the sound; that would be easy enough to wire up with a ring tip single connector -- but for now I'll stick with the FC7 as it has pretty low mileage and still sounds good.

 

One other question -- a few pages back there's a description on how to wire up the 8 pin leslie for quarter inch.

 

If I make such a cable could I have that 8 pin send "organ" (or whatever I have assigned to the SK "upper" manual) and then have the regular L/R outputs send whatever I have selected for the SK1 "lower/virtual" manual?

 

The idea would be to use separate mixer channels for upper and lower; the 8 pin in combination with the regular 1/4" audio outs seem like a workaround for this. Or is this not possible.

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Thanks -- sounds like more of an ergonomic thing btwn the two as opposed to an actual electrical difference.

 

True but when you start to use an expression pedal and see how it affects the tone along with the volume, a pedal with a short arc of travel may not be as functional.

 

Has anyone either opened up one or both of these pedals and looked at the internal components or used a DVM to measure/compare the resistance values between the EXP50 and other pedals?

 

I've looked into the EXP 50. It looks like a pretty sturdy pot. That isn't much to go on.

 

$200 plus for what seems like a simple passive mechanical pedal dznt quite compute for me; plus those mech pots always seem to crud up and sound lousy.

 

I don't know if the pot is sealed or if it is easy to clean if it isn't.

 

I also have an old optical Morley that is super quiet and dznt color the sound; that would be easy enough to wire up with a ring tip single connector -- but for now I'll stick with the FC7 as it has pretty low mileage and still sounds good.

 

The audio signal doesn't actually go through the pedal. If you work the pedal and watch the Expression monitor you should see a nice smooth scrolling of the MIDI value. The numbers may move faster/slower in certain areas of the pedal's travel depending on the Expression curve selected. If the values start jumping the pedal is getting dirty. Unless the Morley provides its own power it won't work.If it does it will be basically just increasing/decreasing resistance (I think).

 

One other question -- a few pages back there's a description on how to wire up the 8 pin leslie for quarter inch.

 

If I make such a cable could I have that 8 pin send "organ" (or whatever I have assigned to the SK "upper" manual) and then have the regular L/R outputs send whatever I have selected for the SK1 "lower/virtual" manual?

 

The idea would be to use separate mixer channels for upper and lower; the 8 pin in combination with the regular 1/4" audio outs seem like a workaround for this. Or is this not possible.

 

If you make the adapter the organ (both manuals) will go out the rotary channel and the EV's will go out the 2 stationary lines in the adapter as well as the 1/4" jacks on the SK-1.

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The EXP50 has a larger arc of travel than the FC7? I have an FC9 (for controlling layered synth volume) and an FC7 for organ expression, and find them bordering on uncomfortable after using Roland FV-300L pedals for a number of years (an old version of my current floorboard setup for function band stuff is http://jamesfry.com/old.jamesfry.com/photos/board1.jpg - new version is on thinner black stained+painted ply)

 

Anyway, My FC7 really sucks on the SK1 - any tips on configuration settings?

 

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The EXP50 has a larger arc of travel than the FC7? I have an FC9 (for controlling layered synth volume) and an FC7 for organ expression, and find them bordering on uncomfortable after using Roland FV-300L pedals for a number of years (an old version of my current floorboard setup for function band stuff is http://jamesfry.com/old.jamesfry.com/photos/board1.jpg - new version is on thinner black stained+painted ply)

 

Anyway, My FC7 really sucks on the SK1 - any tips on configuration settings?

First of all, you might want to try adjust the FC7 pedal to the standing position. I have mine adjusted like this and it feels much comfortable, even for sitting down. Look in your FC7 manual (clonk) on page 3. All it takes is a screwdriver and five minutes of your time.

 

Then about using it with the SK1 - make sure you have the expression parameter set to "ped(rev)", if set to normal you'll probably have a strange response curve. There's also a number of other expression parameters fiddle with. See page 79 in the manual - clonk!

 

Too much stuff, too little time, too few gigs, should spend more time practicing...!  🙄

main instruments: Nord Stage 3 compact, Yamaha CP88, Kurzweil PC4, Viscount KeyB Legend Live

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I have both FC7 and EXP 50. The FC7 works fine with the settings and adjustmenst Tobbe just described.

 

Worth the money? ...just a question of taste and how much luxury u can afford. Is a fillet of beef worth the money when u can buy noodles?

 

I love exp 50 and do not regret a second that I bought it. It is so nice to gas with and seems to be built with super quality.

 

You only live once and it's stupid to die curious ...

 

 

NS2 88, Yamaha Cp300, Moog Little Phatty, Hammond Sk2, Roland Fantom X6, Ventilator, Nord C2D, Leslie 3300, Leslie 122

 

 

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Well -- the SK1 arrived today -- very nice, no high pitched hiss that I can determine, BUT, I think there's a problem -- hopefully it's something I'm doing, however I don't think so.

 

HELP

 

When I press "Manual" and Upper Drawbar Select the drawbars all work...the sound changes as I move the drawbars...very nice; the repeat percussion and Leslie sound great. When I press Lower Drawbar Select and move the drawbars there is NO change to the sound I had with the upper setting, it is eggsackly the same sound including any efx, that were on the Upper such as Leslie, percussion, distortion.

 

I see the Lower configuration in the LCD, and the visuals change as I move the drawbars but there is no change in the lower manual sound. EV solo is not selected and no EV's are selected.

 

I tried it with headfones and single Left channel thru my amp.

 

Reinitialed factory settings twice (hold record & power up). Am I doing something wrong or is there a glitch somewhere? No midi connections and no pedals connected. Just straight single channel into an amp.

 

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

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Thanks JMcS...you've.been very helpful. I thought it was possible to set two separate organ sound s and use the single manual to toggle btwn them. Iguess not I also tried loading MIDI template 2 . I pressed enter after selecting it but for some reason, I dnt think it takes. When I return and chk the configuration it continues to show Basic in the LCD. I hvnt MIDI ed the scnd keyboard yet. Right now I'm on break...I pretend I'm an electric bass plyr on Thurrs nite e so. I'm not by my keyboards.
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You're a Bass player? Well that explains it. ;)

 

You can switch between the upper and lower manuals by setting the split point at the highest C. Pressing and holding the Split button should take you to the menu page where you can set that. You can split the keyboard and have some area upper and the rest lower or all one or the other as described above. You can also use the split at the highest C to switch between organ and an Extra Voice.

 

When you go to the Template page it always displays Basic no matter which Template has been selected.

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Thanks...I'll MIDI up those two brds tmrw.....and for the record I.get to pretend I'm a bass player on this Thurs nite gig....I'm usually piano and dobro FWIW, those ate my main deals......thanks agn for your insite and help....brk time is up.
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My youngest son is a bass player.

 

You can switch between the upper and lower manuals on the SK-1 with the split set to the highest C. You can have 2 manuals with the other keyboard MIDI'd in but you can play both organ manuals or 1 organ manual and the EV's (with the other organ manual layered with it) by turning the split on and off on the SK-1.

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Thanks again.

 

Having a little trouble controlling the MIDI parameters btwn the PX330 and the SK1. I'm been going thru both manuals but I still can't figure it quite out; I tried messing around with changing the MIDI channels but I still must be in omni rcv on the SK - I can get all the keyboards to fire, the problem is there seems to be no dedicated switch to shut off MIDI xmit on the PX330 or turn off midi rcv on the SK. I think my old RD250S had a dedicated MIDI button that I could toggle.

 

Anyway, I'm muddling thru the various parameters, having a blast editing and saving sounds....gotta say tho, and this is coming from never having owned the real deal, the organ/leslie/percussion/chr sounds on this little guy are pretty darn cool.

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You probably have the MIDI In (pg. 110 #2) set to Lower. This will have the SK-1 respond to any channel as the lower manual. Try setting it to "Low + Ped" and have the PX330 send on ch. 2 (or whatever channel you have the LM set to). If the PX330 sends on ch. 3 (or whatever ch. Pedals are set to) the SK-1 will play the pedals. You can also set the RX channels for UM and Pedals (pg. 110 #'s 16 & 18) to "OF" to have it ignore anything the PX330 may send on those channels.
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I just picked up an SK1..! I hope I'll be able to add something to this thread. Since I have and regularly use a B3P, I needed a lightweight alternative, and here it is! The Leslie sim sits somewhere between the XK3c and a Ventilator, definately useable but once you've gone Vent there's no going back..!
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I just received my SK1 yesterday and have spent some time with it today. So far I've tweaked the percussion so the drawbars don't drop in volume (like I've modified in both of my real Hammonds) and have assigned the "spring reverb crash" sound to the Lower Octave button (sounds classic!).

 

Does anyone have a favorite tonewheel set that they like, i.e. BType1 vs. BType2 and then Real B-3 vs. Noisy, etc.? Right now I kind of like BType2 with the Noisy subtype, reminds me of the mellower sound of my 1960 A100 with additional crosstalk.

 

Also, are there any specific Leslie modifications you guys have changed to make it even more realistic? So far what I'm hearing through headphones is that the ramp up time could be faster and the ramp down time also faster. I'm not hearing a ton of difference between the Leslie models, guess I'll stick with the default 122 setting for now. Any microphone changes that can make it more realistic?

 

This sure puts the KB3 mode in my Kurzweil PC2R module to shame!

 

 

'57 Hammond B-3, '60 Hammond A100, Leslie 251, Leslie 330, Leslie 770, Leslie 145, Hammond PR-40

Trek II UC-1A

Alesis QSR

 

 

 

 

 

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I prefer combinations of the farther and wider mic settings (on any digital Leslie). This smooths out the rotation so the horn and rotor don't seem to pop to the front and be gone so much. I also slow the horn down to ~33 and the rotor to ~30 on slow and the horn to ~378 and the rotor to ~375 on fast.
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I also like a farther mic setting, although I set the spread to 0 on my XK-3c since I run mono. The farther mic setting really does smooth out the rotation, makes it more realistic from a listeners perspective as opposed to having your ear right by the Leslie with closer settings.
A ROMpler is just a polyphonic turntable.
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Thanks for those Leslie tips, guys! I'll tweak some parameters and give it a shot.

 

What about tonewheel types? I guess the differences are pretty subtle when in a band situation, just wondering what SK1/SK2 owners on here prefer.

 

I love the simulated pipe organ stops! I just wish there was a way to combine (essentially couple) the upper and lower stops together to come up with different registrations. Any ideas if this is even possible? I have figured out how to use both sets independently by changing the split point to the uppermost C of the keyboard.

'57 Hammond B-3, '60 Hammond A100, Leslie 251, Leslie 330, Leslie 770, Leslie 145, Hammond PR-40

Trek II UC-1A

Alesis QSR

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I copied this from another topic:

 

It seems like the programming for the patch recording may have started out using some XK-3 code where different tonewheel types can be saved to individual presets but the last tonewheel set saved for a given type is then used in all presets that use that type. This was changed in the '3c so that both type and specific set can be saved to each preset. Maybe the change in the XK-3 to '3c software needs further tweaking. What seems to happen now is that a specific tonewheel type and tonewheel set within the type can be saved to each user patch but when selecting a different patch the type changes but the tonewheel set doesn't.

 

Edit: I organized the tonewheel sets/patches to better see what happens.

 

When using the Favorites buttons to select patches, if the active patch uses Mellow #3 and the new patch uses B-Type2 #4, it will call up B-Type2 #1 when the corresponding button is pressed. Pressing it again changes it to B-Type2 #4. If the next Favorite button contains any other B-Type2 tonewheel set it loads the correct set. If the next patch selected uses a different type of TW it will call up that type and the #1 set. Pressing the button again will call up the set that was saved to that patch.

 

Selecting patches by scrolling to them via the knob seems to always call up the type and specific set saved to that patch.

 

When changing from a patch using a Type1 set to a Type 2 set I have had occasions where the type xhanged but the selected set # stayed as it was and didn't revert to #1 before going to the saved set on the second press. The end result is when changing to patches using different tonewheel sets, always press the Favorites button twice to make sure you end up with the set you want.

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