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Sk1 Power Supply - Where to Buy?


RetroVintageOld

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I use a Casio AD-A12150LW. Output, polarity, and connector on the DC side are identical and it costs less than $30. I have 2 pedalboards that also house my power supplies for my SK1 and Casio PX-5S. My large gig pedalboard has both the Hammond and the Casio - If one goes down, I'll run the PX-5S off batteries. The small one for rehearsals and jams only has the Casio and I've run the Hammond off it for many hours without incident.

Hammond SK1, Casio Privia PX5-S, SpaceStation V.3, Behringer B1200D, 2-EV ZxA1s

MacBook Air, Novation ReMOTE 37SL, Logic, Pianoteq 5 Stage, Scarbee Vintage Keys

The MIDI Gizmo Museum!

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The Casio design is clever. There is an little 2-prong connector that makes it act like a wall wart but that can be removed and replaced with a standard mouse-ear appliance cord. I bought one of those for a couple of bucks, cut it off to about 3 inches and put a new AC connector on it. Best of both worlds.

Hammond SK1, Casio Privia PX5-S, SpaceStation V.3, Behringer B1200D, 2-EV ZxA1s

MacBook Air, Novation ReMOTE 37SL, Logic, Pianoteq 5 Stage, Scarbee Vintage Keys

The MIDI Gizmo Museum!

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the Hammond supply is rated at 5amps (DC) and the Casio 1.5amps ?

It seems like I remember that being discussed elsewhere. I'm no electrical engineer, but as I recall the general consensus was that while the Hammond PS was capable of outputting 5 amps, there was no way the SK1 was actually drawing that much juice. Made sense to me so I gave it a try with, so far, positive results. It's working for me and I plan to continue to use it. That said, obviously I can't promise that it won't somehow damage the keyboard and the use of a non-OEM power supply would certainly void the manufacturer's warranty.

 

Full disclosure: Mine was out of warranty before I tried it. And I'm notoriously frugal. While I love my SK1, I refuse to pay Hammond's hyper-inflated prices for accessories. I use a $40 Yamaha FC7 for an expression pedal instead of a $200 EXP-50 and made own 3-position leslie switch out of $15 worth of parts rather than throw down $185 for a CU-1.

Hammond SK1, Casio Privia PX5-S, SpaceStation V.3, Behringer B1200D, 2-EV ZxA1s

MacBook Air, Novation ReMOTE 37SL, Logic, Pianoteq 5 Stage, Scarbee Vintage Keys

The MIDI Gizmo Museum!

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I see some of these Casio units are 1 piece (plugs directly into the wall) and others are 2 piece (Keyboard to adapter, adapter to wall). Any difference? Hard to tell from the descriptions...

 

Jim Wells

Tallahassee, FL

 

www.pureplatinumband.com

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The Casio design is clever. There is an little 2-prong connector that makes it act like a wall wart but that can be removed and replaced with a standard mouse-ear appliance cord. I bought one of those for a couple of bucks, cut it off to about 3 inches and put a new AC connector on it. Best of both worlds.

I think they're all like this - just pictured differently. I've had three - one each with a PX-330 and PX-5S and one that I ordered separately. If I remember correctly, the units that came with the keyboards were configured as wall warts and the other one came with about a 3 foot or 1 meter cord attached.

Hammond SK1, Casio Privia PX5-S, SpaceStation V.3, Behringer B1200D, 2-EV ZxA1s

MacBook Air, Novation ReMOTE 37SL, Logic, Pianoteq 5 Stage, Scarbee Vintage Keys

The MIDI Gizmo Museum!

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  • 1 year later...
Kikesasha, I've had no problems in well over a year but the link you posted doesn't look like the same adapter. Make sure you get an AD-A12150LW or the equivalent for your part of the world. Must be compatible with the Privia series. CLONK

Hammond SK1, Casio Privia PX5-S, SpaceStation V.3, Behringer B1200D, 2-EV ZxA1s

MacBook Air, Novation ReMOTE 37SL, Logic, Pianoteq 5 Stage, Scarbee Vintage Keys

The MIDI Gizmo Museum!

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As a former electronics technician I can clarify. Using a DC power supply (AC adapter) other than the one that came with an appliance is perfectly OK, depending on three factors.

 

First, the voltage (12v, 19.5v, 9v, etc.) must be the same as the one you are replacing. If the voltage is higher it can damage the appliance (sometimes in spectacular pyrotechnic ways). If the voltage is lower it won't hurt the appliance, but the appliance may not operate, or may operate unpredictably.

 

Second, the current rating of the new adapter (1.0A, 500mA, 4.5A, etc.) should be at least as high as the maximum amount of current that the appliance draws at any given moment. This amount varies during the operation of an appliance over a certain range. Depending on what's going on under the hood, the circuitry will try to pull more electrons through the wire from the wall-wart or brick if it needs them. The manufacturer makes sure that the factory adapter covers this current range. If the adapter is rated too low on current, it won't directly hurt the appliance, but it may damage the adapter (sometimes in spectacular pyrotechnic ways). One warning sign of a "too low" current rating is the adapter will get hot to the touch. If the adapter is rated higher than the original, nobody gets hurt. Higher current ratings cost more money as a rule, but are usually built to higher standards.

 

Lastly (and obviously) the DC plug has to be the same as the one you are replacing, it has to fit into the jack on the appliance and make a connection at all the contacts.

 

The best advantage to using one that is rated at a higher current than the original is it will typically be thicker and heavier wire/construction. For me that means durability.

 

~ vonnor

 

Post Edit: Regards the voltage, the assumption is the INPUT voltage (110v, 215v, etc.) matches the original as well.

Gear:

Hardware: Nord Stage3, Korg Kronos 2, Novation Summit

Software: Cantabile 3, Halion Sonic 3 and assorted VST plug-ins.

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  • 2 years later...
I use a Casio AD-A12150LW. Output, polarity, and connector on the DC side are identical and it costs less than $30. I have 2 pedalboards that also house my power supplies for my SK1 and Casio PX-5S. My large gig pedalboard has both the Hammond and the Casio - If one goes down, I'll run the PX-5S off batteries. The small one for rehearsals and jams only has the Casio and I've run the Hammond off it for many hours without incident.

 

Im digging up forensics from 4 years ago---but I thought I would share. I lost my SK1 power cord a few days ago. But because of this thread, I bought the Casio AD-A12150LW 4 years ago, hoping to never use it.

 

Had a big gig sat. night. So I tried the casio at home---it worked. So I rolled the dice (although I did bring my NE4 as a backup).

 

So I set up, do sound check, no problem. Then right before the gig I notice I have no power at all. Now Im in panic mode---Im gonna switch out keyboards with 2 minutes to go. ButI do one last thing, wishful thinking I give a 1% chance for said wish to come to fruition.

 

Yes, the actual plug came out of the 6-way power strip. Plug back in---no problem. This thread and the Casio AD-A12150LW saved my bacon, and Im gonna buy another one today. 29.00 vs. 90.00 from Hammond. I think thats highly dooshy on HSs part.

 

Slightly OT, the bag I lost had a Boss FV500 expression pedal in it. Ive always loved its bulk and good throw. I could not order this online because it was too tight time-wise. GC didnt have it, but they did have the Yamaha FC7, demo unit. Ive always heard good things about it. I absolutely LOVED it. GC matched amazons price---35.00. They were charging 59.00.

 

Ive never tried the HS expression pedal---never will at that price point. 2 thumbs up for the FC7!!

 

Hammond B-2, Leslie 122, Hammond Sk1 73, Korg BX3 2001, Leslie 900, Motion Sound Pro 3, Polytone Taurus Elite, Roland RD300 old one, Roland VK7, Fender Rhodes Mark V with Roland JC90
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  • 9 months later...
I know this is an old thread, but I thought people would interested to know the Shure PS24 power supply works perfectly. It is 12volt 400ma and cost $15.00-$18.00 depending on where you get it. Works with all SK models
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Drifting a little further afield (it's what I do)... as long as we're talking about obscenely overpriced Hammond replacement parts: if you ever break the sk1 / sk2 power supply receptacle, it will cost you north of $30 with shipping if you go through official channels.

 

That, frankly, is obscene. So for your reference, the PCB mount receptacle is a CUI PJ-019 connector and can be obtained here, among other places.

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Good suggestion on the PCB mount receptacle. Thanks. I'm still jonesing to install the power supply inside my SK2 so I can just use a standard IEC cord straight into the instrument. Has anyone successfully done this? I haven't been able to ascertain how much current the SK2draws. Am I correct in assuming that the PX5S supply will work on the SK2 as it works on the SK1?
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Score one for the Shure PS24. Hooked it up at home and have been running it for several hours without a problem. I Have two of the HS units that I'll reserve for gigs only.

Yamaha P-515, Hammond SK1, Casio PX5s, Motif ES rack, Kawai MP5, Kawai ESS110, Yamaha S03, iPad, and a bunch of stuff in the closet.

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  • 10 months later...
Thanks for the advice. Just bought a New Casio AD-A12150LW adapter for $34 (no shipping) on eBay.

 

Just did the same last week, although from Amazon.

 

A little OT: Somehow last weekend, the end of the power supply got a little bent. I ended up using a pair of pliers to straighten the tube to get through the gig. But after the gig I ended up breaking the tip inside the SK1 power receptacle when removing the plug. So the SK1 needed a repair and a new power supply. The repair (with one day service) totaled a little under $150. Lesson learned, I now keep a spare power supply in my gear bag. And now know the receptical is fairly fragile.

 

 

Montage 7, Mojo 61, PC-3, XK-3c Pro, Kronos 88, Hammond SK-1, Motif XF- 7, Hammond SK-2, Roland FR-1, FR-18, Hammond B3 - Blond, Hammond BV -Cherry
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