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You says it doesn't work, but what does it actually do when toggling the switch between the three positions? Stopped in all positions or what? Have you tried diagnosing by hooking it all up and checking the voltages of tip and ring relative to sleeve in all three positions. According to one drawing I saw, Vent_one has 10k internal pullups to +5 V.

Abandoned/shelved projects. I have had a few. Here is one: Leslie Simulator Some time in the 90's, being dissatified with any simulator I had heard, I decided to build one using a time-varying FIR filter using the measured impulse reponses of a real Leslie for coefficients. I recorded a set of impulse responses of my Leslie 122 (in my living room). The set for each rotor were measured at fixed azimuth angles of 22.5 degrees, giving a set of sixteen for each rotor. I came up with an algorithm that would work, but that would be too computationally intensive for any single DSP available at the time, and probably even now. That project and those coefficients were shelved until 2017 when I did an Octave simulation of a Hammond chorus/vibrato that sounded pretty decent to me. Could the same algorithmic approach work for the Leslie sim? I retired from the day job in Jan 2018 and worked for three months on it. I modeled it in Octave, then I ported the algorithm to a TI TMS320C1648 low cost development kit. It worked well, but the audio output of the LCDK had some buzzing artifacts. To fix that, I started laying out a DAC board with some peripheral inputs to attach to the LCDK. Then I bought a Ventilator II. Hey! The Vent sounds like my sim! But the Vent has nice hardware and lights and multiple I/O and lots of options and customer support. In general, I don't build things I can buy. So far, I haven't thrown the sim out but it has been shelved indefinitely. Though, maybe an FPGA solution with the original algorithm...

Oh well... [video:youtube]

daxedex - check your messges please

Seems pretty snappy.

As far as I can tell, in the Replies column, the number of new replies since your last visit are indicated in a parenthesized number hi-lited in red. This appears to be true for KC, Classified and Shameless plugs and for all display themes. Is this not adequate (or have I missed something completely)?

I think your eyeglasses have slipped by a decimal point or two. On Reverb, as of this writing, new RT20s are a little over $200 US; used around $150. ,,, My eyeglasses slipped but not by decimal points. It was by missing the "MXN" after the price. I was connected through a VPN in Mexico.

Wow. Why are those thousands of dollars on Reverb?

Base on my expereince developing a Leslie simulation from a set of impulse responses, and that sounds very much like a Ventilator, I think the Vent is about as good as one can expect from a two-channel simulation, though I think the overdrive could use some work. A clone through a Kemper Profiler into a Vent might sound pretty good.

Yes, thank you.

My sax-playing buddy asked if I could identify the pianist playing "I Mean You" at the end of the Nov 5th edition of NPR's "Fresh Air". I could not. What struck me as a little unusual was the left-hand solo with comping in the right. Maybe that's just the thing for a Monk tune. Anyway, you can fast-forward to the the tune at about 46:45, and the solo at about 47:40. Link here!

I've enjoyed his films. Thunderball was the first of his I saw (in the theater). His Bond films were not my favorites though, First fave: Finding Forrester Second fave: Outland

Depending on how the stereo was created, summing stereo to mono can cause some cancellation and a resulting odd-sounding mono mix. It's something you'd have to try. Otherwise use either left or right alone for the mono feed.

Those look like flush cut. Obviously, they worked well. I had one of those white handled Lindstrom cutters until my father-in-law reached into my toolbox and used it to cut a piece of 3/32 steel music wire, instantly turning it into a wire stripper.

Bravo! There is definitely a reward other than merely financial that one gets by repairing rather than replacing. Concering desoldering opamps and other leaded components from PCBs when using only a soldering iron, cut the leads and remove the body of the part. Then you can desolder each lead individually. You may need a better diagonal cutter than you currently have to isolate a lead to snip it. Plastic thru-hole components are a problem to remove without damage to the PCB (XLR and other connectors). I have used a dremel tool, a jeweler's saw, diagonal cutters, whatever would work to cut away and remove the plastic body and any mounting tabs of the part from the PCB to to isolate the leads for removal.

Around these parts, for years, it's always been Turkey in the Straw, but just the A section. Over and over and over - waiting for the bridge.

I looked at the intended application and compared spec's and features for the K8.2mkii, DXR8mkii, and the 820P Mkii. I'm liking the JBLs. (I have DXR10s). As is always mentioned, if possible, try to listen to some recorded music through these things. JBL 308P Mkii Pro: No cooling fan noise (QSC and Yamaha have fan cooling) Soft dome tweeter (QSC & Yamah use a compression driver) Freq Resp.: 45 Hz - 20 kHz +/- 3dB, 37 Hz - 24 kHz (-10 dB) Coverage: 120H x 90V, wider and taller than either QSC or Yamaha the noise performance is specified (neither QSC nor Yamaha) the distortion performance is specified (neither QSC nor Yamaha) Con: Power: 56 W (LF), 56 W (HF) I saw one review that said it was "overly bright". You can really tell from the spec's that the JBL is intended as a monitor: low power, freq resp. spec'd at 3 dB, no cooling fan, distortion spec's listed, noise spec's listed. For me, the question is whether the JBLs have enough power. Or, do you need a couple of 700 Watt speakers for the house?

Gary Burton is another one that retired recently due to a health-related impairment. After heart surgery, he noticed he no longer had perfect pitch, and had trouble with sight reading or anything that required concentration. The effects of aging can be tragic.

Around these parts, I would consider that a reasonable price for one in good shape. Personally, I would avoid an organ that has the foam (rather than felt) manual cover seals. AFAIK (maybe others can confirm this), you can tell by looking at the back of the manuals for the presence (or absence) of rivets, as seen in this organ forum link. That said, there are a lot of people playing Hammonds with foam seals. There are a couple of links on the HammondWiki you should look at: How to Test Drive a Hammond * Bob Schleicher's Used Organ Rating Scale * To the test drive, I would add listening for a pop or thump when switching a volume or vibrato tab.

When it was working, did you get a pop when switching either the Volume or Vibrato tabs?

I couldn't agree more Theo. Hmm. To ensure that I am not taken seriously, I need a crazy name. -- bradley b

There is an oveload LED that lights up at about 100 mv input when the HI/Lo is set to LO. The audio starts getting a little fuzzy if increased beyond that point.

Yes!

Not Eldar, not Tatum, not Fats, not Oscar, not Keith. This was an unknown to me. The video was it looked it was shot in somebody's dining room during a family get together. People milling about with food/drink. The camera shot was from the left end of the keyboard. Thanks for suggestions though - good stuff.

A while back, someone posted a grainy video of a man playing exceptional boogie woogie (IIRC) piano at what looked like a party in someone's house. It looked impromptu but he was evidently well known by everyone but me. I would like to share this with someone but I have not been able to find it. Does someone recall?