bjosko

I use a sustainpedal for Leslie speed on my Mojo61. Had a halfmoon switch as well, but it is not much more complicated to push the buttons directly, or get used to the sustain pedal. I use both. I have not tried it yet, but the Roland DP10 is my new favorite sustain pedal for piano/synth. Not sure if the NO/NC directions fit the E2 ( or the Mojo). It have a foldout heal part that keeps it in place. It have a switch, but that is for continuing or on/off function, no polarity.

Oh well… That is so dead easy on the A1, just hit the split button and hit the key where you want the split to be.

Perhaps I have misunderstood something, but it seems like it is possible to define the split point pr. Note ” KEYBoarD SPLIT SETTINgS after a split has been activated, use the KB ZONE controls (accessed with SHIFT) below each sections octave Shift buttons to assign a Layer to one or more zones. The four Zone LEDs indicate which zone(s) each Layer is assigned to. CHooSINg a SPLIT PoSITIoN The Keyboard Split page – accessed by holding down the Split SET 6 button – allows for assigning each of the three split points to a keyboard position, or for deactivating a split point by pressing its corresponding soft button. There are 11 possible keyboard split positions, ranging from C2 to C7. To adjust a split point, make sure the Note row is focused by using the 6/5 soft button (PROGRAM 1 button) and then select the split point by pressing its corresponding soft button (Low, Mid or High), corresponding to the PROGRAM 2-4 buttons, and turn the dial. The LEDs located between the keyboard and the panel controls indicate which split positions are active at all times. “

I am patiently waiting for some online reviews with more critical eyes and ears before I make my decision. My Mojo61 will still be my organ source, but it is times where I’m layering a pad or piano with the Nord organ, or use it as a lower manual.

Well, as usual, they are expensive in US, someone know what they want for them 🫤 Over here in Denmark, a 88 is advertised to $4918, a bit more than I would like to spend, but a 73 with HA is tempting. Just for fun, I used an inflation tool (www.inflationtool.com), and a NS 88 today is about the same as I gave for my Roland D50 back in 1987.

I might try to experiment a little with this. I bought a Fender Hot Rod Deville 410 ( the old model with silver top) yesterday, but also have a Strymon Iridium ( that can handle stereo) that can simulate a tube amp pretty close. Not that I will schlep the Deville to gigs 😓 I just wondering if it can handle an electronic input from a clone as well as a passive from an original Rhodes as an example.

Forgot the Unbrako key ….

Maybe you could order from Thomann.de ? Half the price, but you would know the freight cost at checkout ( and they have been expensive lately )

Sad start on a new year. Robbie Bachman from Bachman-Turner Overdrive has left us. https://www.nme.com/news/music/robbie-bachman-of-bachman-turner-overdrive-has-died-3380297

Yep, but that again is an issue between the + and - on the speaker, not Left and Right. But I have seen this in some HiFi equipment, where there is a common ground. Typical in Car audio, and when folks use the original wiring, it might happen the phases have been switched so it miss the umph and the speakers are fighting each other. I was struggling with this yesterday with a guitar where I had put a Humbucker in the bridge, and a P90 in the neck. Each was playing fine separately, but when I engaged them both, the volume was cut in half. Even both was connected correctly per diagram an colors, one of them had to be reversed on polarity. But that was a pair of cheap knockoffs. But that started me speculating about what that old tech told me once about the Left / Right and that it also could cause similare issues. If someone have two pair of speakers in their home studio and am able to play both at the same time, it should be easy to test out by reversing the left and right speaker on one of the pair. My guess is that it would only destroy the stereo image.

New and exciting. I need to hear back from “real” peoples experience before I jump on that wagon again. My expectations compared to my experiences from a seasick Seaboard prevent me from building up GAS so far. Besides that, what I have heard so far is typical film music and classical compositions.

A tech once told me I should be careful when running stereo monitors and to FOH in stereo at the same time. I could get phase issues. Did he had a point? We are not talking polarity, but simply mixing up Left and Right speaker, and that way fighting each other. At rehearsal and at a gig, I am using my Key Largo mixer for my own two monitors and to the PA, but the long cables to PA might very often be crossed between left and right. But then, I’m only the keyboard player and am used to get lost in the mix ….. 🤔

I would give the Numa X GT a spin. It have the new TP400 wood keys, and they got positive reviews. The internal A Piano is nice in my ears, the electric not so much. A bit strange pitch and modulation control, but otherwise fine built in controls for external units.

Good luck with it. I bought mine in January, no issue so far, but it haven’t seen so much use as it deserves. It will need to be calibrated a couple times, there was a special note about it added with mine. When it have been calibrated a couple times in different temperatures, I have not needed to do it again. And remember, all the mojo is in the modulation matrix, it’s here it starts shining.

So it seems like an M1 with 256 GB would be a better choice then, referring to that article. I have seen several tests on the M1 that seems to perform exemplary. Recording will be stored on an external disc anyway.

Thanks for that information, it might be the reason I’m seeing them for sale everywhere? The 512 is almost plus $600, so you saved me the money this time 👍

I have been looking at a MacBook Air 13 inch M2 / 8GB/256 for a while. Up until Christmas it was listed for sale for Danish KR 9999.- ( it about 1430 USD), but today 27. December the January sale started, and it went up to KR 10999.- increased with 143 USD 🤨 Found it in another store at the old price. At Apple Store they are listed at USD 1146. Yes, they aren’t cheap over here. My old MacBook Pro from 2013 migh need a replacement. Mostly for small recording and mixing on the fly, I have an newer iMac in my dungeon.

It’s my new favorite sustainpedal, and inexpensive.

I have cleaned a contact or two on my old Nord Stage, and used isopropyl on a Q-tip. The rubber has a tiny air vent hole, so it might suck some dirt in.

Perhaps this could be a inspiration. Basically the keys working the same way on your Mojo as on this Nord Electro. But I am leaning more against some cable issues, as it seems like you are missing the note off command.

I am speculating if it is easier to maintain the volume with a real tube Leslie ? Back when I used my A100 / 147, I dont remember I had the same volume issues I’m struggling with now, and have done since I switched to a clone some years ago. When my Mojo came to live in the mix, everybody tells me I’m to loud, and I’m also riding the master volume knob. It’s great to have a dedicated drive and master volume control. As I remember my Leslie, it was more forgiving with the swell pedal. Yes, of course it get louder, but in a more pleasant way than the digital way from a clone to mixer. Might be time to bring my old Hammond and Leslie back to the rehearsal room and do an A/B test. At least only the Leslie for a start.

Perhaps Nord have read this thread 🥴 So the price is down to European level. I browsed through some larger German and Danish web stores, but here the prices is the same as they used to be, even increased a bit compared to last time I was looking.

Well, I wish I was in D, but I’m back to somewhere between A or B. Now, most of our song is on Hammond or/and various pianos, but we have some songs with brass, splits and dedicated programs. Often it is by scrolling to the right program, but I need to know the setlist, and hopefully no switch around in the songs in the middle of a set. I have started looking into Camelot Pro, and start thinking I could set up some patch changes here, depending on which keyboards I am using. And depending on that also supplement some sounds from my IPad. But so far have just scrolled through some tutorials, but I’m not sure if I will go that route. Years back, I was playing in a cover band, and here I used a 360 systems 8x8 Midi patcher together with a simple Roland midi program changer. So the Roland was connected to my 360, and the 360 did the Midi routing and program changes for a couple keyboards, modules and an Atari ST that did some sequencer thing on a few tunes. All songs had a number, so I just dialed it in on the Roland, and all my keyboards was ready. I still have the 360 and the Roland on a shelf.