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Is Vaseline suitable for...


Gary75

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Smoothing the drawbar action on my C3? I'm renting it out and as its my dads it's not getting used much until I'm in a bigger house. Is their anything easy to obtain (in other words not specialist lubricants from US) that I can stop the sticking?

 

 

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I have been using switch cleaning lubricant which does the job but doesn't particularly last very long before the action of the drawbar gets sticky again. I'd like a more long term solution. I'll take a look and see if Deoxit is available in the UK
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Are you actually CLEANING them, or just shooting stuff into the housing? If you're having difficulty with them, I would recommend taking the drawbar assembly apart, cleaning it, and reassembling.

 

A little bit of silicon lube on the SLIDING part of the drawbar - not the electrical part - wouldn't hurt.

 

The busbars themselves, I clean with DeOxit D5 then follow up with G5 on the busbars (silver) and F5 (contacts). I'm not convinced any of those latter two are necessary. But I get good results.

 

In a pinch, I have used Hammond oil, 1/3 drop per drawbar, on the top of the spring, then worked the drawbar in and out. With my luck, it's probably a terrible idea in the long run, but it works.

 

Wes

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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In a pinch, I have used Hammond oil, 1/3 drop per drawbar, on the top of the spring, then worked the drawbar in and out. With my luck, it's probably a terrible idea in the long run, but it works.

 

Wes

I'd be interested in seeing your technique for metering 1/3 drop consistently.

Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.

-Mark Twain

 

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No don't ever do that use Dexoit.

 

There's an appropriate opportunity for Vaseline, and an appropriate opportunity for DeoxIT.

 

Life goes easier when one doesn't confuse them.

Someone emailed me a joke along those lines the other day which I would post here if it wouldn't involve my getting kicked off for violating the "P" part of no R & P.

Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.

-Mark Twain

 

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Probably not applicable to keys or other gear, but the general rule is:

 

If it moves and it shouldn't - duct tape.

 

If it doesn't move and it should - WD-40.

 

Not sure how that applies to organic situations, though.

 

:roll:

 

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With WD-40 (or RP-7 another brand haha) the essential ingredient is basically a "kerosene derivative" so while it is very good for rusted bolts and an initial loosening, it should never be used as a permanent lubricant!

 

The only place I use vaseline is on bolts and nuts for stands, stools and other fastening hardware that has continual use.

 

The various grades of silicone greases and lubricants are the best for all delicate equipment that needs lubricating. JM2c :D

 

There is no luck - luck is simply the confluence of circumstance and co-incidence...

 

Time is the final arbiter for all things

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About a year ago I completely took apart the entire HP keybed from my Electro 3HP. I lubricated every hinge joint and slider guide with Molykote 55. It was a time consuming and tedious process, but the action has been as quiet as a church mouse ever since.

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About a year ago I completely took apart the entire HP keybed from my Electro 3HP. I lubricated every hinge joint and slider guide with Molykote 55. It was a time consuming and tedious process, but the action has been as quiet as a church mouse ever since.

 

Thank you for that, Mike!!! Man, that just rang the bells in my head.

 

My Kronos RH3 has gotten more argumentative and arthritic of late, and I bet a quiet evening spent with it and some silicone grease might be just what's needed to restore our relationship.

..
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In a pinch, I have used Hammond oil, 1/3 drop per drawbar, on the top of the spring, then worked the drawbar in and out. With my luck, it's probably a terrible idea in the long run, but it works.

 

Wes

I'd be interested in seeing your technique for metering 1/3 drop consistently.

 

I dip an eye dropper in the container and use the oil that sticks to it. 1/3 is an estimate. It might be closer to eight twentysevenths.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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I have been just spraying into the drawbars. I guess a more thorough approach should be done with direct application rather than point and spray. Anyway, a quick spray of contact lubricant will sort it for rental for now. Just had to zap the scanner as it had a clicking noise in the audio.

 

I wasn't interested in renting it but the guy likes it and wants to buy it despite having a 57 B3, but I would never sell.

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Sounds like your organ is overdue for some maintenance! When you're ready to fix (not bandaid) the scanner, remember to paint the inside of the cover after cleaning.

 

Wes

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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That explains why the owner of the '57 wants to rent it. Red caps.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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There's an appropriate opportunity for Vaseline, and an appropriate opportunity for DeoxIT.

 

Life goes easier when one doesn't confuse them.

 

Torn between six lovers. Feeling like a fool. Making love to all of you leaves me tired, sore, confused. Torn between eight lovers. The gig wants to add a few. If I'd known this set list rubbed this way, I would have bought some lube.

 

Yes, you have been consistent on the vaseline/lube meme. Wonderful poetry, too. How could I forget?

Kurzweil PC3, Yamaha MOX8, Alesis Ion, Kawai K3M
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