mate stubb Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Your image url doesn't point to the actual image file. Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seannn Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 GovernorSilver/Rhodes54, I love those! Very, very clean. And your roommate's Ikea shelf idea - brilliant! (I actually used the same power source for a while.) To Rhodes, I've been looking to organize my cables in a snake for a while. Thanks for sharing the rig with us! ~ Sean Juno-60, Juno-G, MicroBrute, MS-20 Mini, PX-5S, R3, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLeo Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Here's mine for any x-stand users out there. Piece of plywood and velcro - doesn't get any simpler. http://dc110.4shared.com/img/CBN-w9nk/0.9291224181649572/Pedalboard_2.jpg Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer. - W. C. Fields Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhodes54 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Working on something new to overcome the problem of only have one CC pedal input on my controller. This is basically a mockup where I hacked a NanoKontrol to create an input patchbay. Allows me to use the Yamaha full-range sustain pedal in Pianoteq and have two extra expression pedals for layers. In theory, only a single USB cable connects between pedalboard and keyboard. All the electronics work, but haven't tried on a gig yet since the board part isn't finished. Any input is appreciated.https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2tdffmy0dsvx0m/photo.JPGThanks,Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delaware Dave Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I cut a piece of carpet, with a rubber base, that fits under my stand and lay the pedals on that. Nothing moves. 57 Hammond B3; 69 Hammond L100P; 68 Leslie 122; Kurzweil Forte7 & PC3; M-Audio Code 61; Voce V5+; Neo Vent; EV ELX112P; GSI Gemini & Burn Delaware Dave Exit93band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Awful lot of extraneous wire that could be shortened up. Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Coda Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I cut a piece of carpet, with a rubber base, that fits under my stand and lay the pedals on that. Nothing moves. I had all kinds of DIY pedalboards and found that uncomfortable. Later, I decided for a rubber mat covering the floor which has cutouts for my pedals. This works excellent and the pedals are always in the right position even roadies set up the gear. The rubber mat has markers for the position of keystand(s) too, so the stand(s) are on top of the mat. Nothing moves and it´s perfect. Because I´m using the same basic stand (which has removable wings for additional keys) always, I´m able to work w/ up to 3 different rubber mats for different rig/pedal layouts. It´s also the cheapest and most portable solution I´ve found ever. Once coiled up, the mats fit into my flightcase for the miscellaneous stuff incl. pedals and cables. A.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhodes54 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 @MoeDefinitely, but my thought was that by leaving the original pedals wiring as is, they could still be used in "normal" or emergency situations if needed. The idea is to have that extra wiring, the NanoKontrol and patchbay enclosed in some kind of box with a velcro'd lid for quick access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marino Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 This thread comes at a perfect time, as I'm about to build a very simple pedalboard, for two continuous pedals and one sustain (perhaps double) pedal. I'm thinking to go with a simple plywood or plastic surface with rubber feet, made to fit in a carrying case (the generic type from hardware stores), which I could also use to carry cables, PSUs, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceNorman Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Has anybody come across a damper pedal that are have a 1/4" input jack rather than a 6' cable that's "hard wired" into the pedal with with a molded plug at the far end? The 6' cable length simply isn't long enough to route the cables along my "Z" stand ... and stead requires that I just let the cabling hang (which looks like hell!) Worse, given where I like to place my pedals - the 6' cable is barely long enough to get from the jack of my top tier keybard (located on the far left side of the board) to the floor by where my right foot usually ends up. The SpaceNorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoken6 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Do you need a Piano-style pedal, or a cheap plastic square job? I have one of the latter with a socket, but not seen the piano-style ones like that. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pale Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Has anybody come across a damper pedal that are have a 1/4" input jack rather than a 6' cable that's "hard wired" into the pedal with with a molded plug at the far end? The 6' cable length simply isn't long enough to route the cables along my "Z" stand ... and stead requires that I just let the cabling hang (which looks like hell!) Worse, given where I like to place my pedals - the 6' cable is barely long enough to get from the jack of my top tier keybard (located on the far left side of the board) to the floor by where my right foot usually ends up. Can't you just use an exstension cable on your existing pedal? Female jack on one side and male on the orher? Custom handmade clocks: www.etsy.com/shop/ClockLight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceNorman Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Can't you just use an exstension cable on your existing pedal? Female jack on one side and male on the orher? I suppose I could - but truth be told, I'm hoping I can replace ALL my existing pedals (2 expression and 3 damper style) with units that use 1/4" jacks for TR or TRS cables - and then order a custom snake from the folks at www.Redco.com using right angled connectors and custom length leads at the keyboard end - and simple fan of straight connects at the "pedal" end that is long enough to dress the cable so that it routes along my keyboard stand - solving my cable length issues AND eliminating the gawd-awful aesthetics of have five seperate cables just hanging off the back of my keys. The SpaceNorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePhen Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I 've opened some of my pedals and I think i can squeeze a jack into some of the housings. I've ordered jacks (TRS and TS) for the various pedals. When I do the hacks on the pedals, I'll take pics and share them. That said, I think that having jacks would be great. I wonder if I am missing something obvious about the idea that makes it dumb... but I'm going to give it a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Muscara Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 You'd think that since the weakest point of pedals seems to be the cable, they'd go with the 1/4" jack instead. Of course, then you'd replace the cables when needed with another instead of buying a whole new pedal... "I'm so crazy, I don't know this is impossible! Hoo hoo!" - Daffy Duck "The good news is that once you start piano you never have to worry about getting laid again. More time to practice!" - MOI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throbert Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I'm hoping I can replace ALL my existing pedals (2 expression and 3 damper style) with units that use 1/4" jacks for TR or TRS cables - and then order a custom snake from the folks at www.Redco.com using right angled connectors and custom length leads at the keyboard end - and simple fan of straight connects at the "pedal" end that is long enough to dress the cable so that it routes along my keyboard stand - solving my cable length issues AND eliminating the gawd-awful aesthetics of have five seperate cables just hanging off the back of my keys. Redco has mutipin connectors by edac that you can surface mount to the pedal board using one of Edacs housings. You could cut down the lines from the pedals and wire to the connector, then build a snake on the other side. Thomas and Betts makes them to but their more industrial like for automation. Triton Extreme 76, Kawai ES3, GEM-RPX, HX3/Drawbar control, MSI Z97 MPower/4790K, Lynx Aurora 8/MADI/AES16e, OP-X PRO, Ptec, Komplete. Ashley MX-206. future MOTU M64 RME Digiface Dante for Mon./net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceNorman Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Redco has mutipin connectors by edac that you can surface mount to the pedal board using one of Edacs housings. You could cut down the lines from the pedals and wire to the connector, then build a snake on the other side. Thomas and Betts makes them to but their more industrial like for automation. I'm not enough of an electronics DIY'er to start fiddling with multipin connectors. The design I'm noodling at the moment is to have a buddy who isan electronics DIY'er build me a simple patch box - that will contain 5 1/4" "IN" connections and 5 1/4" "OUT" connections. The "patch box" will be mounted on my pedal board along with the pedals. I'll cut the existing molded plugs off the "hardwired" cables, shorten the cable appropriately and install a new 1/4" plug on the shortened cable. The pedals will plug into the "IN" side of the patch box - and the custom snake will plug into the "OUT" side of the patch box. The pedal board I'm using is large (24" x 41")- and fills the area between the "Z" sides of my QuikLoc Z726L stand. The two expression pedals are mounted such that I can sit comfortable with one foot on each pedal ... with the 3 damper type pedals spread between them. In addition to the pedals - I have a 4 outlet AC drop box mounted to the board as well with just enough cable to run cleanly back to the AC drop box that I use to deliver power to my powered speakers and Keyboard rack. The pedalboard itself is painted with multiple coats of "high gloss" black enamel - and has two large "cupboard" style handles that make lifting and positioning it easy. I have a plastic and strap case that the pedalboard travels in (along with my mic boom and bench). It's a little bulky - but it's not all that heavy - and has wheels on one end. It packs nicely in the van. The SpaceNorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throbert Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I was going to say and you know redco could build the snake side of it for you. For the board side ther would be the expense of shiping back and forth just the pedals after you shorten the cables. It wouldn't be an online thing you'd have to get in touch and probably email diagrams/schematics. the Edac system uses crimp pins and they have a tuchel system that uses solder Art has a Tpatch that you can switch to half normal and use the way you want to go. it will give you 4 pedals worth. $39 at Sweet Triton Extreme 76, Kawai ES3, GEM-RPX, HX3/Drawbar control, MSI Z97 MPower/4790K, Lynx Aurora 8/MADI/AES16e, OP-X PRO, Ptec, Komplete. Ashley MX-206. future MOTU M64 RME Digiface Dante for Mon./net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhodes54 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Better camera skills needed. Got the $2 mat from Home Depot. Moved a few wires around. Probably swap the Alesis or M-Audio pedal out for one of those round guitar amp channel footswitches which will function solely at Concert Level for Leslie speed. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0pcix4gsccdsjn9/Pboard.JPG Still need a box covering the wires, NanoKontrol and patchbay. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.J. Lewis Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Rhodes - that's a pretty cool idea there...great use of the NanoKontrol! For those of you building boards, one thing I've found is using a piano (or other) hinge mounted to the back side of each half of your board, you can fold it back-to-back, therefore making it easier to build/source roadcases. ivorycj Main stuff: Yamaha CP88 | Korg Kronos 2 73 | Kurzweil Forte 7 | 1898 Steinway I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.J. Lewis Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I 've opened some of my pedals and I think i can squeeze a jack into some of the housings. I've ordered jacks (TRS and TS) for the various pedals. When I do the hacks on the pedals, I'll take pics and share them. Any updates, sir? I'd love to see if this works for you. ivorycj Main stuff: Yamaha CP88 | Korg Kronos 2 73 | Kurzweil Forte 7 | 1898 Steinway I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhodes54 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'll be trying it out on a gig tomorrow. I'm getting a continuous stream from one of the on/off pedals, so I've turned it off (via the Korg Editor) for now. I think it's some kind of grounding issue in the pedal itself. The other on/off is fine. https://www.dropbox.com/s/djhsvfexyz9xsnq/Pboard9-18-2012.JPG Still need a proper "hole" for the mini-USB and some kind of case/cover with handle, but I'm pretty psyched at having half-pedaling AND two expression pedals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sami Freeman Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I build this pedalboard : pedalboard complete tuto here : make your own keyboard pedalboard/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe P Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Sami, Welcome to the Forum - that is some useful info, thanks. I like the design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vonnor Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I bolted my pedals to a PedalTrain frame and mounted a boxed connector for all the cables. A pig-tailed snake runs up to the respective jack on my keyboards. http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m305/Koda_Vonnor/Misc/new_rig_10.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m305/Koda_Vonnor/Misc/new_rig_11.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m305/Koda_Vonnor/Misc/new_rig_12.jpg I recently built a similar solution for Eric L. ~ vonnor Gear: Hardware: Nord Stage3, Korg Kronos 2, Novation Summit Software: Cantabile 3, Halion Sonic 3 and assorted VST plug-ins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cphollis Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Yeah, well, this is on my project list. Doesn't seem to be any off-the-shelf commercial solutions, so time to dig in. When I get motivated, I'll post the results. That is, after I upgrade to a Nord Stage 3 Compact and a Nord Piano 3. Any day now Want to make your band better? Check out "A Guide To Starting (Or Improving!) Your Own Local Band" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electro Fan Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Im not much of DIY guy, but I am motivated to setup a pedalboard that would allow me to transport my pedals already set up and would be a plug and play proposition. I think a commercially made product like a Pedaltrain pedalboard with hard case may be my best option. For those using something like this, is there difficulty adjusting to the pre-built angle of the board for the keyboard player? Can someone offer a model number or the physical dimensions of their Pedaltrain board? I would have an expression pedal, 2 damper pedals and possible my Vent or at least the remote switch for the Vent. Thanks, Bill Nord Stage 3 Compact, Korg Kronos 61, Casio PX-5S, Yamaha DXR 10 (2)), Neo Vent, Yamaha MG82cx mixer and too many stands to name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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