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Hey Myles,

 

I thought my Lifco amp issue was resolved, and it sounds OK unless it's really cranked, but it still isn't very loud, as I found out in a full band scenario. Are there higher output version of 6V6's, or other tubes that will raise the output on a fixed bias amp like that, and keep the sound quality about the same?

Never a DUH! moment! Well, almost never. OK, OK! Sometimes never!
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Hey Myles,

 

I thought my Lifco amp issue was resolved, and it sounds OK unless it's really cranked, but it still isn't very loud, as I found out in a full band scenario. Are there higher output version of 6V6's, or other tubes that will raise the output on a fixed bias amp like that, and keep the sound quality about the same?

 

A 6V6 is a 6V6 and as long as it meets average spec no much will change by changing tube types.

 

Get more efficient speakers. 3db greater efficiency is the same as doubling your wattage.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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OK - but will 6L6's, or EL34's or others work in this amp, or am I buying more trouble?

 

An output transformer is optimized for a specific tube and amps that allow a switch are really a sonic compromise.

 

Also ... in a 6V6 amp if you use a 6L6 or EL34 the power supply will be stressed and as an example, the heater current of a 6V6 is .45 amps ... that is AMPS not mA. The heater current of an EL34 is 1.5 amps per tube. Your heater winding AND plate resistors, especially the plate resitors, will be damaged.

 

Leave the amp alone ... if you do not like how things sound it is time for a different amp ... period.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hey, Myles! :cool::wave:

 

I recently picked up a Radial Tonebone "Plexitube" pedal.

 

It uses a 12AX7 in a low-voltage/"starvation" design...

 

I'd like to know if trying different preamp tubes in it will give me different gain/overdrive responses, allowing for greater response to changes at the guitar's volume-knob for cleaning-up and vice-verse...

 

Or, is the pedal's gain/overdrive/distortion more due to its SS circuits, and thus less likely to be affected by any tube-swapping?

 

I want an idea of how worthwhile it would be to open it up to get at the internal tube-socket (not exactly as simple as it could be) and swap various tubes in and out...

 

Thanks!

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Hey, Myles! :cool::wave:

 

I recently picked up a Radial Tonebone "Plexitube" pedal.

 

It uses a 12AX7 in a low-voltage/"starvation" design...

 

I'd like to know if trying different preamp tubes in it will give me different gain/overdrive responses, allowing for greater response to changes at the guitar's volume-knob for cleaning-up and vice-verse...

 

Or, is the pedal's gain/overdrive/distortion more due to its SS circuits, and thus less likely to be affected by any tube-swapping?

 

I want an idea of how worthwhile it would be to open it up to get at the internal tube-socket (not exactly as simple as it could be) and swap various tubes in and out...

 

Thanks!

 

Just experiment .... it will be your own ears.

 

Many tube based pedals use the tube for nothing more that to light the heater when it is visible .... others do make use of the tube and this can be to a greater or lesser extent.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Wow, that was quick! :cool:

 

I also recently picked up a Fuchs Lucky 7 head; what a cool and unusual amp! (Particulalry its being a single-ended Class-A amp using an EL34 instead of the usual EL84, 6V6, etc., and using kinda hefty transformers and high-grade components.)

 

What preamp, driver, and output tubes would you recommend for the Fuchs Lucky 7, for both playing in a band setting (through a 2x12 cab), and getting as wide a range of dynamic response from it as possible?

 

I like to "play the amp", setting the volume higher than I might intend to play, often actually diming it- and then using my guitar's volume-knob and my "touch" to clean-up and vice-verse.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Wow, that was quick! :cool:

 

I also recently picked up a Fuchs Lucky 7 head; what a cool and unusual amp! (Particulalry its being a single-ended Class-A amp using an EL34 instead of the usual EL84, 6V6, etc., and using kinda hefty transformers and high-grade components.)

 

What preamp, driver, and output tubes would you recommend for the Fuchs Lucky 7, for both playing in a band setting (through a 2x12 cab), and getting as wide a range of dynamic response from it as possible?

 

I like to "play the amp", setting the volume higher than I might intend to play, often actually diming it- and then using my guitar's volume-knob and my "touch" to clean-up and vice-verse.

 

The Fuchs Lucky Seven is one of the coolest amps on the planet. I'd experiment around in the front end and just keep a good EL34 in the output stage. Play with V1 and the phase inverter V2. For a very cool tonal thing try a 6V6 with a 5751 in V1 .... classic blues tones or when cranked some rock tones that through a Vox blue in an open back 1x12 cab will record larger than a wall of Marshall Majors.

 

 

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Myles, I'm semi-new to this forum and your service is greatly appreciated.

 

I'm a bit different than what I'm reading from most people. I play a Fender 65 reissue Twin Reverb with a Sheraton and a Strat. My thing is, I want the loudest possible sound with NO crunch. Just a completely clean, shimmering, warm sound. Are there any mods I should do to the tube setup of the amp? Everything is stock. Thanks again!

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Hey Myles, I'm semi-new to this forum and your service is greatly appreciated.

 

I'm a bit different than what I'm reading from most people. I play a Fender 65 reissue Twin Reverb with a Sheraton and a Strat. My thing is, I want the loudest possible sound with NO crunch. Just a completely clean, shimmering, warm sound. Are there any mods I should do to the tube setup of the amp? Everything is stock. Thanks again!

 

In V1 and V2 get some great long plate types of 12AX7 such as a 12AX7LPS. Get them from a vendor that can measure current output and make sure they are at least 1.0mA output. Also have them make sure the gain is at least 85 at 250 plate volts with a 2 volt bias.

 

On the phase inverter in V6, you want a 12AT7 that is matched with a transconductance of at least 5000 on each side.

 

On the output tubes you want some strong 6L6's ... again, from a vendor that can test these at RCA, GE, or Sylvania book spec and assure that they are matched within 10% and the current output is at least 72mA per tube. You will then bias these at 32mA. If you use a GT tube, specify a #7 rating in the 6L6GE or 6L6CHP.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Myles,

I'm thinking of trying EL34s and KT66s in my Regal. Any recommendations on specific tube manufacturers? I'm not familiar with these types of tubes.

 

Thanks Myles.

 

The new Sovtek Gold Lion reissue is a great tube that may be the best new KT66 on the market. Our testing showed great results on this tube. Make sure your vendor can give you a design spec tube, you do not want a weak one or overly strong one.

 

On the EL34 ... the EL34M Mullard xf2 reissue at GT is a terrific EL34 with a classic tone and response. The E34LS and E34L are a bit edgy sounding compared to the M but some folks like that but it is not my personal taste.

 

In the end though it is all personal taste :)

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Myles,

I'm thinking of trying EL34s and KT66s in my Regal. Any recommendations on specific tube manufacturers? I'm not familiar with these types of tubes.

 

Thanks Myles.

 

The new Sovtek Gold Lion reissue is a great tube that may be the best new KT66 on the market. Our testing showed great results on this tube. Make sure your vendor can give you a design spec tube, you do not want a weak one or overly strong one.

 

On the EL34 ... the EL34M Mullard xf2 reissue at GT is a terrific EL34 with a classic tone and response. The E34LS and E34L are a bit edgy sounding compared to the M but some folks like that but it is not my personal taste.

 

In the end though it is all personal taste :)

 

 

Thanks! Is there a vendor that carries both? Is Genelex Gold Lion the same as Sovtek? And lastly, what is the power output of 2 EL34s? And 2 KT66s? I'm running a Celestion blue in the Regal and don't want to blow it.

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Myles,

I'm thinking of trying EL34s and KT66s in my Regal. Any recommendations on specific tube manufacturers? I'm not familiar with these types of tubes.

 

Thanks Myles.

 

The new Sovtek Gold Lion reissue is a great tube that may be the best new KT66 on the market. Our testing showed great results on this tube. Make sure your vendor can give you a design spec tube, you do not want a weak one or overly strong one.

 

On the EL34 ... the EL34M Mullard xf2 reissue at GT is a terrific EL34 with a classic tone and response. The E34LS and E34L are a bit edgy sounding compared to the M but some folks like that but it is not my personal taste.

 

In the end though it is all personal taste :)

 

 

Thanks! Is there a vendor that carries both? Is Genelex Gold Lion the same as Sovtek? And lastly, what is the power output of 2 EL34s? And 2 KT66s? I'm running a Celestion blue in the Regal and don't want to blow it.

 

Your amp is cathode biased so there is no worry on power output but give Mark Baier a call at Victoria just to get his two cents worth.

 

The Genelex Gold Lion is the new Sovtek tube.

 

Check with www.tubesandmore.com as one vendor ... there are probably a lot more.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hey Myles,

 

We've had a conversation about Celestion speakers....specifically we're comparing the New Celestion G12EVH (Eddie Van Halen signature speaker) and the Heritage series G12M;

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Celestion-Eddie-Van-Halen-G12EVH-Replacement-Speaker?sku=660101

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Celestion-G12M-Heritage-Guitar-Speaker?sku=660258

 

In looking at the specs, the only difference I can see (aside from that goovey label :eek:) is that the resonance frequency of the EVH is 75 hz, while it is 86.9 hz for the G12M Heritage.

 

Can you tell us what this means, and what difference it might make?? Or, are these essentially equivalent speakers?

Don

 

"There once was a note, Pure and Easy. Playing so free, like a breath rippling by."

 

 

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/pagemusic.cfm?bandID=574296

 

http://www.myspace.com/imdrs

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Hey Myles,

 

We've had a conversation about Celestion speakers....specifically we're comparing the New Celestion G12EVH (Eddie Van Halen signature speaker) and the Heritage series G12M;

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Celestion-Eddie-Van-Halen-G12EVH-Replacement-Speaker?sku=660101

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Celestion-G12M-Heritage-Guitar-Speaker?sku=660258

 

In looking at the specs, the only difference I can see (aside from that goovey label :eek:) is that the resonance frequency of the EVH is 75 hz, while it is 86.9 hz for the G12M Heritage.

 

Can you tell us what this means, and what difference it might make?? Or, are these essentially equivalent speakers?

 

The speakers are different and describing the differece is like trying describe two different colors of green out of a box of Crayola 64 colors. The reason the frequency is different is due to other factors and those color the sound of the speaker. It is a job for your own ears to see which you prefer.

 

Sorry I cannot help you here. You might want to ask Ted Weber, who is a speaker guru over here -

 

http://drzamplifiers.proboards41.com/index.cgi?board=xperts&action=display&thread=11512

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hi Doc,

 

Simply put, it's the frequency where your speaker is most efficient; the greatest amplitude to a sine(or guitar :D ) wave of a constant power amplitude. AFIK, that merely means that the lower valued speaker will more easily/efficiently reproduce that(and nearby) frequency. The lower rated would probably be more gutsy sounding, for lack of a better term.

 

Best, Paul

WUDAYAKNOW.. For the first time in my life, I'm wrong again!!
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Thanks Myles.

 

Do you think the amp would perform much better if modded to take 6V6's?

 

Not really. The two tubes use the same output transformer and each have their cool aspects. It really is a great amp in many ways but a lot of folks expect a certain kind of response and touch in these fixed bias class A/B amps (and in the Fender Blues Jr) which is not the same as a cathode biased amp with EL84's. If you like the tone and feel of the amp then all is fine and dandy.

 

 

Yeah, I dig. I love this amp, it's just a little louder than I would like it :-) Thanks very much for your input, Myles. I appreciate it.

 

Laney has built a lot of cool stuff for a very long time.

 

One side aspect of class A/B is more wattage than class A / cathode biased amps and less distortion. The amp may be rated at 15 watts but it can really do closer to 25 so that is one reason it is a bit louder than expected for an amp with a duet of EL84 tubes.

 

It will even be stronger with some EL84S tubes but if you get a set of the GT EL84S (it is the JJ tube) in a #2 rating and bias it for that tube it will break up a little faster.

 

 

 

 

 

A small update on this one, Myles (just in case you like to see how things pan out :D ) I have replaced V3 with a 12AX7M groove tube that came in my Zendrive 2. This has given a little more grit at lower volume.. So step 1 is complete :-) But I am finding it hard to find somebody within a 50 mile radius to do the power tubes for me, I ask for a quote and nobody gets back to me. Do you happen to know if these Laney's (PCB based) are hard to work on, or something?

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Myles,

I just scored an Electro Harmonix English Muffin pedal. Can you make a suggestion on a 12AX7 that will make the sound a little lower gain and sweeter in the highs?

 

Mike

Always remember that you are unique. Just like everyone else.

 

 

 

 

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Myles,

I just scored an Electro Harmonix English Muffin pedal. Can you make a suggestion on a 12AX7 that will make the sound a little lower gain and sweeter in the highs?

 

Mike

 

You are going to need to experiment ... it will be your own ears but the tube does not change things all that much in that pedal.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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FWIW, and for future reference:

 

Concerning tubes for the Radial Tonebone 'Plexitube' pedal-

 

I've since found out that

 

(A) Radial advises that anything other than a 12AX7 (as in 12AY7, 12AU7, 12AT7, etc.) should NOT be used in the Plexitube, stating that the unit might even malfunction,

 

-and-

 

(B) The Plexitube uses three gain-stages with much of the gain that drives the tube used in the unit relying on SS circuits, and the tube's application is in a low-voltage "starvation" approach to gaining distortion-

 

-and as such it will yield little discernible difference with different tubes (like you said, Myles, of many such pedals that use tubes)-

 

-and further, by design is not as responsive to picking-hand dynamics and volume-knob changes made at the guitar to 'clean-up' as their Trimode pedal (not to mention those of some other makers).

 

I have found, though, that it is not too shabby at all at a "playing the amp" approach to cleaning-up and overdriving the pedal's sound, though- some great tones are there to be had- it just takes a good bit of control-tweaking, a more drastic use of the guitar's volume, and a very deliberate, light touch.

 

Not trying to sell anyone on it, just comparing notes for the record and anyone intersted at all here! :thu::cool:

 

Now back to our scheduled thread-programming! :D

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Hey Myles,

 

I know you're the tube guru but I have a SS question.

 

I own the first amp I ever used, my brother's old Peavey Pacer bought in 1978. I know... It was and is a real dog of an amp. :freak:

 

Pity aside, I'd like to get it working properly either for occasional use or to sell and there is a specific problem I hoped you might identify before I go changing every cap and resistor in an amp unworthy of the time and expense.

 

Specifically, the amp sounds like it is somehow synthesizing audio an octave below the guitar causing some nasty square wave type distortion. I've played with every adjustment with no change in the quality of this noise. Before I put it up in storage several years ago the amp would run fine for a few minutes before generating these noises. I'm sure the speaker, whatever its own issues, is not the source of this problem as I've run the amp into another speaker cab with identical results.

 

Any thoughts on or other sources of repair info on this issue you might recommend?

 

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you might provide. :)

It's easiest to find me on Facebook. Neil Bergman

 

Soundclick

fntstcsnd

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The most obviosu thing to try with any amp that is misbehaving is to reheat the solder joints, especially around jacks and other points where there might be any pressure to the circuit board at an electrical contact.

 

Works a treat for old amps of any stripe.

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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Hi Myles,

Last night my 07' Gibson Melody Makers volume control was intermitent at best, and really only seemed to work on full. Do you think it's a bad control or dirt? It's in my practice room, with no animals or smoke.

Thank You

Anthony

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Hey Myles,

 

I know you're the tube guru but I have a SS question.

 

I own the first amp I ever used, my brother's old Peavey Pacer bought in 1978. I know... It was and is a real dog of an amp. :freak:

 

Pity aside, I'd like to get it working properly either for occasional use or to sell and there is a specific problem I hoped you might identify before I go changing every cap and resistor in an amp unworthy of the time and expense.

 

Specifically, the amp sounds like it is somehow synthesizing audio an octave below the guitar causing some nasty square wave type distortion. I've played with every adjustment with no change in the quality of this noise. Before I put it up in storage several years ago the amp would run fine for a few minutes before generating these noises. I'm sure the speaker, whatever its own issues, is not the source of this problem as I've run the amp into another speaker cab with identical results.

 

Any thoughts on or other sources of repair info on this issue you might recommend?

 

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you might provide. :)

 

Take the amp to Todd Sharp at Nashville Amplifier Service

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hi Myles,

Last night my 07' Gibson Melody Makers volume control was intermitent at best, and really only seemed to work on full. Do you think it's a bad control or dirt? It's in my practice room, with no animals or smoke.

Thank You

Anthony

 

Anthony,

 

Clean and lube the pot with something like Deox-it ... a proper cleaner lube.

 

DO NOT USE WD40.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Thanks, Bill. You literally heat the joint to melting then let it cool or is there more to it than that?

 

Exactly that. watch them liqufy, and get all shiny again. (of course, watch any need to heat-sink...)

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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Thanks Myles, I'll do that. I know I'm being redundant, but you are such a great resource.

 

You are quite welcome and thanks for the compliment.

 

Myles

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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