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BillWelcome Home Studios

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About BillWelcome Home Studios

  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. another soul lost to the Sirens call, gone to the watery deep...
  2. Exactly that. watch them liqufy, and get all shiny again. (of course, watch any need to heat-sink...) Bill
  3. The most obviosu thing to try with any amp that is misbehaving is to reheat the solder joints, especially around jacks and other points where there might be any pressure to the circuit board at an electrical contact. Works a treat for old amps of any stripe. Bill
  4. Myles, Your advice helped me to get the sound that I wanted... now I'm wondering about a tweak. I've lived with it for a while, ready to try something similar but different. My UniValve... Mesa 6BQ5, GT12AY7 (input), Mesa 12AX7-A (driver). What would you change and why? Thanks, Bill
  5. Found this, written by Miles a while ago: There is a feature of the THD Univalve that is overlooked by too many folks. This is something I have written in the past that may be of value to some UV owners. You might also want to try the line out of the UniValve to feed the instrument input of your current amplifier. The UniValve is one of the most impressive recording tools available, as well as a superb front end for amplifiers in a performance venue. Mic'd up with its own cabinet and mixed with a signal into the house system is something to be heard ... you won't forget the experience. This is one of the biggest features of this amp. It is overlooked by too many folks. If you have a clean amp that you thought was rather one dimensional (as an example, a clean Fender Twin), using the UV as a preamp will yield fantastic results. Plug your guitar into the UV, and take the line out from the UV using the instrument setting, plug into the Fender Twin input. Now you can set your volume on the Fender Twin to the desired loudness level, set the UV's volume to the desired clean, crunch, or distortion taste, and then balance the overall level using the UV line out level pot as to keep from overdriving (unless you want to) the front end of the Fender. The UV sits quite nicely on the top of most amps. You do not need to even have a speaker hooked up to the Univalve, it has built in protection when a speaker is not connected. I do not think of the Univalve as a guitar amp. I do not try to compare it with other amps. It is a great amp of course, and is quite loud in spite of it's published ratings, but this amp is a MUST HAVE tool for the studio. It is a fantastic unit to use with ProTools or other direct recording Digital Work Stations. If you have a budget for amps and another for studio gear, maybe take a little out of each for a Univalve.
  6. Yeah, I've gotten repair kits from them before. Thanks for the reminder. Bill
  7. Miles, Looking for someone to repair a Vox Bulldog speaker. Is there a reconing company that you are aware of? Bill
  8. Yeah, I was told that the amp runs around $5,000 and has an 8 month wait. Both sort of deal breakers. Bill
  9. Miles, Any insight into Divided by 13 amplifiers? Bill
  10. Does it need to be 75 feet? Loss is related to distance/wire diameter. If it is only 30 feet via around and through, why does it end up being 75 feet going through the walls? I use 10 gauge cable for my speakers. Lots of studios use larger, like 6. I suggest putting in wall jacks, wired with ten gauge, then make a couple of cables the right length to hit the amps, without any excess. But my number one suggestion is to leave the heads in the studio, and put a driver/buffer amp in the control room to feed them, if the distance is indeed 75 feet. Or even 30 feet. Didn't Craig have a buffer amp for guitar in a project kit? I mean, there can't be that much changing you need to do on the amp head... at least, I only do a couple of tweeks, then I'm done. Bill
  11. Miles, Just got a Reverend Goblin, powered by two EH 6V6GT tubes. Would you be looking for another tube besides the EH? If I'm going to get tweaky, I might as well get real tweaky.... Bill
  12. Like so many other guitarists, I notice a change in tonal quality when I plug into footpedals in front of the amp, compared to plugging directly into the amp. So Im exploring possible solutions. I find little gain circuits based upon FET, opamp, and other designs. Then I see (what appears to be) a passive impedance matcher. Hmmm Now, Im trying to get my original tone, pushed through the effects, and not really make any changes. What avenue should I be persuing? (If it matters, the pedals are all Fulltone, a wah, a univibe, and a distortion) Thanks, Bill
  13. Miles, Don't know if you have any ideas for me or not... Bought the THD UniValve, and bought a bunch of tubes from GT and got some from Messa. With the Messa 12ax7a Russian 2 in the "input" and "V1" tube positions, I find the amp to be pretty bright. I put in the Messa EL 84, and the tone is great, but I have the treble down at about 9 o'clock or less, while the bass and attitude are up around 1, 2 o'clock. Still, the (Duncan Fat Cat)P-90 treble pickup is too bright for my tastes. Neck pickup and blended pickups sound great. With the GT GTE 34LS, a lot of the richness of tone seems to go away. With the stock EL 34B, ... well, I like this least. Is there a tube combo that might mellow out the tone a bit, withput taking the richness away? Thanks, Bill
  14. Miles, If Nicole is also the "Nicole" model on the site, and she is as smart as she is pretty, good on ya! The avatar is a painting by Scottish painter Jack Vettriano. When I can figure out how to do it, I´m going to slideshow about 6 of his works, so that they rotate. I really like the film noir quality of these paintings, and I´ll promote him a little if I can. (Not that he needs any help from me. I believe that his paintings sell in the six figure range.) Bill
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