Feel free to ask Myles

[Geronimo]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

 

I would always go NOS if it were for my own amps. 12AT7s today are really junk and it is almost impossible to find one that is remotely close to specs. I'd also use a good RCA or USA vintage 7025/12AX7 in V1 (unless you don't use the normal channel), V2 and V5.

 

The cool place to get these, the guy I use for my own stuff is Mike at www.kcanostubes.com

 

Kerosene .... yes, but slower these days ... P180 Avanti. Way less fuel! Then again, Brad Paisley and Chad Weaver go back and forth quite often from Nashville to Vany Nuys in a Lear 45. Lots of fuel used there. I tried to talk him into a Citation X as it is faster and actually more economical but he went the Lear route.

 

 

 

 

[Strategery]

Hi Myles,

 

I just sold it, but do you know why the latest version of the Fender Concert Reverb Amp/4/10 hi gain, was discontinued?

It's about an 04' model I think.

 

I never had a problem out of it the whole 3-4 years that I owned it and it sounded good but was more than I wanted to lug around.

I did change out the speakers but other than that, it was a good amp.

 

Just curious and thanks.

 

Randy

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Concert-Reverb-50Watt-AllTube-Amp-with-4x10-Eminence-Speakers?sku=480617&src=3SOSWXXA

 

http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/regular/2/0/7/265207.jpg

 

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles,

 

I just sold it, but do you know why the latest version of the Fender Concert Reverb Amp/4/10 hi gain, was discontinued?

It's about an 04' model I think.

 

I never had a problem out of it the whole 3-4 years that I owned it and it sounded good but was more than I wanted to lug around.

I did change out the speakers but other than that, it was a good amp.

 

Just curious and thanks.

 

Randy

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Concert-Reverb-50Watt-AllTube-Amp-with-4x10-Eminence-Speakers?sku=480617&src=3SOSWXXA

 

http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/regular/2/0/7/265207.jpg

 

You would have to ask Fender but the usual reason for something being discontinued is slow sales.

 

 

[Strategery]

WOW...that was quick...thanks!

 

Randy

[myles_rose]

WOW...that was quick...thanks!

 

Randy

 

Some days I am in the middle of other emails and see the post notification fast

 

 

[Caevan O’Shite]

Hi Myles,

 

I just sold it, but do you know why the latest version of the Fender Concert Reverb Amp/4/10 hi gain, was discontinued?

It's about an 04' model I think.

 

I never had a problem out of it the whole 3-4 years that I owned it and it sounded good but was more than I wanted to lug around.

I did change out the speakers but other than that, it was a good amp.

 

Just curious and thanks.

 

Randy

 

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Concert-Reverb-50Watt-AllTube-Amp-with-4x10-Eminence-Speakers?sku=480617&src=3SOSWXXA

 

http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/regular/2/0/7/265207.jpg

 

You would have to ask Fender but the usual reason for something being discontinued is slow sales.

 

 

I wouldn't be surprised if Fender has a good sized corporate marketing staff; they've gotta keep themselves in a job, right? Too much success can mean not being as needed anymore for those folks...

[Geronimo]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

 

I would always go NOS if it were for my own amps. 12AT7s today are really junk and it is almost impossible to find one that is remotely close to specs. I'd also use a good RCA or USA vintage 7025/12AX7 in V1 (unless you don't use the normal channel), V2 and V5.

 

The cool place to get these, the guy I use for my own stuff is Mike at www.kcanostubes.com

 

Kerosene .... yes, but slower these days ... P180 Avanti. Way less fuel! Then again, Brad Paisley and Chad Weaver go back and forth quite often from Nashville to Vany Nuys in a Lear 45. Lots of fuel used there. I tried to talk him into a Citation X as it is faster and actually more economical but he went the Lear route.

 

Thanks again for the great advise on the tubes, I'll give Mike a shout.

 

Cheers, Oliver

 

As for the kerosine ... a man of taste, I see ... the Avanti is one of the sexiest machines around ... Lear: I heard you better be a fighter pilot to land one of these ;-)

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

 

I would always go NOS if it were for my own amps. 12AT7s today are really junk and it is almost impossible to find one that is remotely close to specs. I'd also use a good RCA or USA vintage 7025/12AX7 in V1 (unless you don't use the normal channel), V2 and V5.

 

The cool place to get these, the guy I use for my own stuff is Mike at www.kcanostubes.com

 

Kerosene .... yes, but slower these days ... P180 Avanti. Way less fuel! Then again, Brad Paisley and Chad Weaver go back and forth quite often from Nashville to Vany Nuys in a Lear 45. Lots of fuel used there. I tried to talk him into a Citation X as it is faster and actually more economical but he went the Lear route.

 

Thanks again for the great advise on the tubes, I'll give Mike a shout.

 

Cheers, Oliver

 

As for the kerosine ... a man of taste, I see ... the Avanti is one of the sexiest machines around ... Lear: I heard you better be a fighter pilot to land one of these ;-)

 

 

Mike will take great care of you.

 

The Lear 45 is not all that hard to land, about the same as a CX.

 

 

 

[faustino]

Hi Myles,

I Recently got my hands on a very old Dynacord Commander amp head.

About 20 years ago, my guitar amp died in the middle of a gig, and the bass player in the band told me to plug into his rig to finish the gig. It was that actual Dynacord commander amp that has now spookily come my way again. It needs a bit of TLC to get it back in action, but I'd love to play through it again. I remember it having a big warm sound. I have a Framus 2x10 cab that I,d like to run it through. The back panel has tarnished so much that its impossible to read any of the specs, and the front is pretty basic.If you have any info on this amp it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[miroslav]

Hi Myles

 

Trying to get a clear answer on the 7581A tube type....

 

 

Is it a KT66 or a 6L6?

 

I know KT66 and 6L6 are same family...but this would be specifically for a Dr. Z Route 66 amp, which as I understand can NOT take 6L6 tubes...they have to be true KT66 tubes.

 

I see a lot of different tube sellers use the "7581A" nomenclature for either KT66 tubes or 6L6 tubes...and I just want to be sure I'm getting tubes that will work in my Dr. Z Route 66.

 

Thanks!

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles,

I Recently got my hands on a very old Dynacord Commander amp head.

About 20 years ago, my guitar amp died in the middle of a gig, and the bass player in the band told me to plug into his rig to finish the gig. It was that actual Dynacord commander amp that has now spookily come my way again. It needs a bit of TLC to get it back in action, but I'd love to play through it again. I remember it having a big warm sound. I have a Framus 2x10 cab that I,d like to run it through. The back panel has tarnished so much that its impossible to read any of the specs, and the front is pretty basic.If you have any info on this amp it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

You may want to look at some of the prints links on my website, I have nothing on file but they are very cool amps.

 

 

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles

 

Trying to get a clear answer on the 7581A tube type....

 

 

Is it a KT66 or a 6L6?

 

I know KT66 and 6L6 are same family...but this would be specifically for a Dr. Z Route 66 amp, which as I understand can NOT take 6L6 tubes...they have to be true KT66 tubes.

 

I see a lot of different tube sellers use the "7581A" nomenclature for either KT66 tubes or 6L6 tubes...and I just want to be sure I'm getting tubes that will work in my Dr. Z Route 66.

 

Thanks!

 

They are a 6L6 type not a kinkless tetrode (KT66) type

 

 

[Geronimo]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

 

I would always go NOS if it were for my own amps. 12AT7s today are really junk and it is almost impossible to find one that is remotely close to specs. I'd also use a good RCA or USA vintage 7025/12AX7 in V1 (unless you don't use the normal channel), V2 and V5.

 

The cool place to get these, the guy I use for my own stuff is Mike at www.kcanostubes.com

 

Kerosene .... yes, but slower these days ... P180 Avanti. Way less fuel! Then again, Brad Paisley and Chad Weaver go back and forth quite often from Nashville to Vany Nuys in a Lear 45. Lots of fuel used there. I tried to talk him into a Citation X as it is faster and actually more economical but he went the Lear route.

 

Thanks again for the great advise on the tubes, I'll give Mike a shout.

 

Cheers, Oliver

 

As for the kerosine ... a man of taste, I see ... the Avanti is one of the sexiest machines around ... Lear: I heard you better be a fighter pilot to land one of these ;-)

Mike will take great care of you.

 

The Lear 45 is not all that hard to land, about the same as a CX.

Hi Myles,

Yesterday I got the shipment from Mike/kcanostubes.com. I splurged and got the Mullard CV4024 to replace the 12AT7s. For the 12AX7s I was a little more modest and got the TungSol Reissues. I reasoned that if I'm not happy I can still go for the more expensive NOS later.

 

Got home and installed them right away. I am blown away! I did not expect that much improvement in sound and noise reduction. All the weird hi-frequ noise is gone and the hum is about 10dB lower. The amp sounds a lot more open in the higher frequ range and the reverb seems smoother and more predictable.

 

Thanks again for your recommendations.

 

Best, Oliver

 

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles,

I just purchased a new Fender '64 Vibroverb Custom. I love the tone of it. Right when I got it 2 of the 12AX7's were microphonic and made the amp squeal and feedback like crazy. I went down to Guitar Center and replaced them with GT Gold tubes. The amp is still hissing when it gets really warm and popping when the volume gets louder.

 

Would it be a good idea to replace all the stock tubes (Fender GT) with NOS? I think the output tubes are pretty good ones, right? Any suggestions on tube replacements?

 

I am looking for blues and rock tones in the SRV territory.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

PS: Any chance to get a ride in your T-38, she's a real beauty!

 

Check the tubes one at a time to find the offending 12AX7 or 12AT7. If it is a normal channel only issue it is probably V1. If it is a vibrato channel issue it is probably v2 or v5.

 

That T38 is long gone now but if you know somebody that would want to buy it I may be able to get in contact with the last person that had it up for sale.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The offending tubes were indeed v2 and v5. Would it make sense to get NOS 12AX7s and 12AT7s to replace the stock Fender GT tubes?

 

I've never liked an amp as much as this one, so I'll do whatever it takes to get the most out of it.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

That t-38 would be tempting...not now, though... are you still flying a kerosine burner?

 

I would always go NOS if it were for my own amps. 12AT7s today are really junk and it is almost impossible to find one that is remotely close to specs. I'd also use a good RCA or USA vintage 7025/12AX7 in V1 (unless you don't use the normal channel), V2 and V5.

 

The cool place to get these, the guy I use for my own stuff is Mike at www.kcanostubes.com

 

Kerosene .... yes, but slower these days ... P180 Avanti. Way less fuel! Then again, Brad Paisley and Chad Weaver go back and forth quite often from Nashville to Vany Nuys in a Lear 45. Lots of fuel used there. I tried to talk him into a Citation X as it is faster and actually more economical but he went the Lear route.

 

Thanks again for the great advise on the tubes, I'll give Mike a shout.

 

Cheers, Oliver

 

As for the kerosine ... a man of taste, I see ... the Avanti is one of the sexiest machines around ... Lear: I heard you better be a fighter pilot to land one of these ;-)

Mike will take great care of you.

 

The Lear 45 is not all that hard to land, about the same as a CX.

Hi Myles,

Yesterday I got the shipment from Mike/kcanostubes.com. I splurged and got the Mullard CV4024 to replace the 12AT7s. For the 12AX7s I was a little more modest and got the TungSol Reissues. I reasoned that if I'm not happy I can still go for the more expensive NOS later.

 

Got home and installed them right away. I am blown away! I did not expect that much improvement in sound and noise reduction. All the weird hi-frequ noise is gone and the hum is about 10dB lower. The amp sounds a lot more open in the higher frequ range and the reverb seems smoother and more predictable.

 

Thanks again for your recommendations.

 

Best, Oliver

 

Happy playing! It is pretty cool what happens when you have tubes to put in an amp that actually meet the specs that were intended when the amps were designed

 

When two sides of a dual triode are way off or output tubes are off then you get a lot more hum and noise not to mention the loss of sustain and articulation.

 

 

[Salad Days]

Hi again Myles,

I'v got a problem with my 1987x marshall (again).

This time I keep blowing the t500 fuses after about 20 mins of play.

 

I seem to come into trouble when i'v got the respective volumes at around 2 and 6 with the channels linked via patch cable and I run an overdrive/fuzz pedal into the amp's front end. After a while the signal dims and breaks up quite quickly until nothing comes out the speakers. I check the fuse and its kaput. This is the second time its happened in 2 days.

 

I ran into this problem a few months ago also but I thought it was because of the bad valves problem I was having at the time.

 

I'm running the amp set to 4 ohms into an attenuator (tube cube) also set to 4 ohms and into a 4 ohm cabinet.

 

The problems only really cropped up since I started using the attenuator so im begining to suspect its the cause as im not running the amp any harder than i have done previously.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Rich

[myles_rose]

Hi again Myles,

I'v got a problem with my 1987x marshall (again).

This time I keep blowing the t500 fuses after about 20 mins of play.

 

I seem to come into trouble when i'v got the respective volumes at around 2 and 6 with the channels linked via patch cable and I run an overdrive/fuzz pedal into the amp's front end. After a while the signal dims and breaks up quite quickly until nothing comes out the speakers. I check the fuse and its kaput. This is the second time its happened in 2 days.

 

I ran into this problem a few months ago also but I thought it was because of the bad valves problem I was having at the time.

 

I'm running the amp set to 4 ohms into an attenuator (tube cube) also set to 4 ohms and into a 4 ohm cabinet.

 

The problems only really cropped up since I started using the attenuator so im begining to suspect its the cause as im not running the amp any harder than i have done previously.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Rich

 

What is your bias set to in milliamps? it sounds like you are right at the end of a range that is too high.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Salad Days]

Hi myles, thanks for the response.

 

I tried to measure the bias on my amp but the fuses are blowing the second i hit standby off now.

I might try setting the bias really low and turning it on but im reluctant as last time there was a blue flash in each power tube and im concerned about them becoming damaged (if they arent already that is).

 

Last time I set the bias I set it to 32mA, that was when the tubes were brand new. I'm using 6L6CHP groove tubes.

Does the bias change as the tubes break in or anything?

[myles_rose]

Hi myles, thanks for the response.

 

I tried to measure the bias on my amp but the fuses are blowing the second i hit standby off now.

I might try setting the bias really low and turning it on but im reluctant as last time there was a blue flash in each power tube and im concerned about them becoming damaged (if they arent already that is).

 

Last time I set the bias I set it to 32mA, that was when the tubes were brand new. I'm using 6L6CHP groove tubes.

Does the bias change as the tubes break in or anything?

 

Pull the power tubes and then measure the neg voltage on pin 5 of the output tube socket. Adjust the bias pot to obtain the highest negative voltage .... -50 vs -60vdc as an example, you want to set to -60vdc.

 

Then shut off the amp and install the output tubes and adjust back up to 30mA.

 

Recheck after a few hours of use as the tubes may drift a bit after they settle in.

 

As a side note, no real 1987x I was aware of used 6L6 tubes ... the real ones are EL34. Set EL34 tubes to 36-38mA.

 

If you are blowing things right off standby there is a short somewhere that has to be fixed.

 

 

 

 

[Salad Days]

Thanks again for the quick response but it seems my amp wont go into standby at all without blowing a fuse now. It even blew one without the amp being switched on at all. (I suppose it hadnt cooled down yet.) I'm at 7 blown T500mA fuses now just from trial and error in trying to get the thing to work.

 

Funnily enough i'd just tried turning the bias pot the the extreme clockwise and anti-clockwise positions just before reading your reply but got the same result in both positions.

 

Something is definetly up with it.

I think its possibly time to take it to a tech but im open to suggestions.

 

Thanks very much for your help myles.

Its much appreciated.

 

[myles_rose]

Thanks again for the quick response but it seems my amp wont go into standby at all without blowing a fuse now. It even blew one without the amp being switched on at all. (I suppose it hadnt cooled down yet.) I'm at 7 blown T500mA fuses now just from trial and error in trying to get the thing to work.

 

Funnily enough i'd just tried turning the bias pot the the extreme clockwise and anti-clockwise positions just before reading your reply but got the same result in both positions.

 

Something is definetly up with it.

I think its possibly time to take it to a tech but im open to suggestions.

 

Thanks very much for your help myles.

Its much appreciated.

 

Take the amp to a good tech.

 

 

[Alejo Martínez]

Hi Myles, first thanks for your information, its very helpful, at last for me, thanks.

Well, my question is about my amp, a Laney Lc50 the fist generation, from 1998 maybe. It has 2 sovtek 5881, and four yugoslavia ecc83, the last is the phase inverter. Ok, the sound of the amp, in clean channel, tends to brake at 4 o 5, lame. But, the awful aspect is that the sound is very agressive, not pleasant in the good way, like a twin or a blues junior still.... I´d tried putting in front a compressor, but it isn´t the same, i want to take a compressed sound, an a sweet attack from this, more like a fender in a natural way. I´d think about putting a tube rectifier, those that one can buy in torres ingennering could retard the attack and make it more musical but, what you think. Is this amp, a good amp or maybe the best is to sell it. I live in Argentina and here is too dificult to buy a good amp. And, todoy all of the amps that i could buy news, come from China, and i thinks they arent the same like an england made. Thanks and i´ll wait your answer. Bye bye. Alejo.

[myles_rose]

Hi Myles, first thanks for your information, its very helpful, at last for me, thanks.

Well, my question is about my amp, a Laney Lc50 the fist generation, from 1998 maybe. It has 2 sovtek 5881, and four yugoslavia ecc83, the last is the phase inverter. Ok, the sound of the amp, in clean channel, tends to brake at 4 o 5, lame. But, the awful aspect is that the sound is very agressive, not pleasant in the good way, like a twin or a blues junior still.... I´d tried putting in front a compressor, but it isn´t the same, i want to take a compressed sound, an a sweet attack from this, more like a fender in a natural way. I´d think about putting a tube rectifier, those that one can buy in torres ingennering could retard the attack and make it more musical but, what you think. Is this amp, a good amp or maybe the best is to sell it. I live in Argentina and here is too dificult to buy a good amp. And, todoy all of the amps that i could buy news, come from China, and i thinks they arent the same like an england made. Thanks and i´ll wait your answer. Bye bye. Alejo.

 

The Ei tubes are bright and gainy. You may want to try a 12AX7C is V1 and V2 to warm things up.

 

If that doesn't do it for you then you may want to consider a different amp as these amps are very different from the two Fender amps you mention and in fact, those two Fender amps are from very different camps as well.

 

 

[Zephyr]

Hey Myles,

 

I was perusing Euro Tubes, and came upon two versions of the ECC83, the ECC83S Standard and the ECC83S Gold Pin.

 

Do you think that the Gold Pins are really worth the extra money?

[myles_rose]

Hey Myles,

 

I was perusing Euro Tubes, and came upon two versions of the ECC83, the ECC83S Standard and the ECC83S Gold Pin.

 

Do you think that the Gold Pins are really worth the extra money?

 

 

To me, the only advantage of gold pins is if you keep tubes in storage for decades where there is a lot of moisture where the gold plated pins will not corrode as steel pins would. But ... if you put a non-gold pin in a pin straightener before inserting into an amp then the corrosion is removed so in the end gold pins were more of a marketing ploy than something needed.

 

[Caevan O’Shite]

Aaaaaah... So, the only difference between those two is the plating on the pins?

 

I had misunderstood, and thought that they were called that not only because of the obvious gold-pins, but as a name sort of like "Gold Standard", to differentiate them as being a higher caliber tube by design...

[Terrell]

HEY MYLES! Who makes the highest gain before breakup tubes? Or, which Tubes have the highest amount of headroom before distortion? Manufacturer wise? I'm looking for you guys who may have complaints like, "I put these (brand X) tubes in and it was loud as !@#$^, but I couldn't get it to break up!"

 

I'm trying to get a little more power out of my Juniors:

12AX7

EL84

[myles_rose]

Aaaaaah... So, the only difference between those two is the plating on the pins?

 

I had misunderstood, and thought that they were called that not only because of the obvious gold-pins, but as a name sort of like "Gold Standard", to differentiate them as being a higher caliber tube by design...

 

 

No difference other than thin gold plating on the pins.

 

Some folks will point out "gold grids" .... well, many tubes already have gold plated grids and that has nothing to do with gold plated pins and whether the pins are plated or not that has nothing to do with the grid wire.

 

 

[myles_rose]

HEY MYLES! Who makes the highest gain before breakup tubes? Or, which Tubes have the highest amount of headroom before distortion? Manufacturer wise? I'm looking for you guys who may have complaints like, "I put these (brand X) tubes in and it was loud as !@#$^, but I couldn't get it to break up!"

 

I'm trying to get a little more power out of my Juniors:

12AX7

EL84

 

Today's production tubes are down at least 20% or more on gain from spec on average.

 

The gain on each run of each type of each tube from each maker varies widely from tube to tube even in the same batch.

 

So ... the only way to do what you want is to hand pick and hand test and hand trace and hand spec at least 50 tubes to try to find a handful of good ones. This is what I do for all my blueprinting clients ... if you ever see a copy of the paperwork that was done on a particular amp each tube is documented for plate current, gain, transconductance, plate resistance and other factors so it is known what the tube is actually doing and we can replicate things when retubing the amp ... or go up, down, left or right or whatever. You cannot know where you can go if you don't know where you are in the first place.

 

If you want a proper gain / spec tube in V1 of your particular amp and a matched phase inverter in V2 then go to www.kcanostubes.com and say hello to Mike from me

 

 

[Terrell]

HEY MYLES! Who makes the highest gain before breakup tubes? Or, which Tubes have the highest amount of headroom before distortion? Manufacturer wise? I'm looking for you guys who may have complaints like, "I put these (brand X) tubes in and it was loud as !@#$^, but I couldn't get it to break up!"

 

I'm trying to get a little more power out of my Juniors:

12AX7

EL84

 

Today's production tubes are down at least 20% or more on gain from spec on average.

 

The gain on each run of each type of each tube from each maker varies widely from tube to tube even in the same batch.

 

So ... the only way to do what you want is to hand pick and hand test and hand trace and hand spec at least 50 tubes to try to find a handful of good ones. This is what I do for all my blueprinting clients ... if you ever see a copy of the paperwork that was done on a particular amp each tube is documented for plate current, gain, transconductance, plate resistance and other factors so it is known what the tube is actually doing and we can replicate things when retubing the amp ... or go up, down, left or right or whatever. You cannot know where you can go if you don't know where you are in the first place.

 

If you want a proper gain / spec tube in V1 of your particular amp and a matched phase inverter in V2 then go to www.kcanostubes.com and say hello to Mike from me

 

 

They're Epiphone valve junior heads. So they came with the cheapest tubes possible I'm sure... One began to squeal like a pig on day 2. So, I immediately put GTs in them I picked up from GC. I was told that the higher the number on the matched sets of GTs, the higher the output before break up. So, I got the highest numbers they had laying around. 6 or 7s I think... If the description of the rating system is accurate, is there a 9 or a 10 and who would make that? Or, was that description just bunk?

 

So, I take it no particular brand has a cleaner louder brighter punchier tone?

 

Background: I use the heads like power amps for my Line 6 rig. I'm trying to get just enough clip to compress and round transients, but with clean low end power (punchiness) and little if any breakup. They are fairly accurate now (surprisingly so for what I paid). However, when I start pushing them to where I could possibly use them on stage, they begin to get flubbery in the bass (not enough power to pull the voice coils back) and break up in the midrange. I keep the gain knob at just under 12 o'clock (50%)...

 

Thanks for your previous reply and your help for this board. I've learned lots from reading your replies.