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Sustain Pedal (Polarity?)


KeysPlz

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I own an ancient Yamaha sustain pedal. Trying to use it on a Korg Kronos2-61 and the polarity is reversed. Is there anything I can do short of buying a new pedal?

 

(Not interested in a small square foot switch.)

 

If I do have to buy a new one, the manual is trying to sell me on their brand's DS-IH.

 

Any suggestions?

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Change the polarity of the foot Peddle input in the global menu. That's yiur work around.
Korg kronos, casio px5s, studiologic sl 88 studio, korg m50,korg triton, yamaha moxf6, hammond xk1, korg sp200
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Did it work? If not.....

 

[Rhetorical Question] Which model of Yamaha pedal? [/Rhetorical Question]

 

If it is an old FC3 ( continuous zone pedal that supports Yamaha half damping) It won't work. My guess is the new FC3A won't work either. If it is a simple damper switch then it will work. Like they said polarity can be changed in the Global menu on the Kronos.

 

I tried to use the both my Yamaha FC3 and my Kawai half damping pedal when I got my Kronos. Neither worked. I wanted half damping. I ordered a Korg DS-1H but in the meantime I used a M-Audio SP-2 I had.

 

FWIW the Korg DS-1H supports half pedaling but the amount of travel on the pedal is so small frankly the M-Audio pedal worked just as good if not better than the Korg.

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From the Korg Kronos Owner's Manual, p.23:

 

4. Connecting Foot Pedals and Switches

 

Connecting a damper pedal

 

The damper pedal is also sometimes called the sustain pedal. It acts like the similarly-named pedal on an acoustic piano, when you hold down the pedal, notes will continue to sustain even when you lift your hands off of the keyboard.

 

1. Connect an optional DS-1H damper pedal to the DAMPER jack. If you've connected a DS-1H, you'll be able to obtain half-damper effects.

 

After turning the power on:

 

2. Go to the Global P2: Controller/Scales page, and use the Damper Polarity parameter to set the damper polarity.

 

3. Go to the Global P0 page, and use the Half Damper Calibration menu command to adjust the sensitivity if desired.

 

For more information, see "Damper Pedal (Sustain)" on page 38, and "Damper Polarity" on page 781 of the Parameter Guide.

 

Given that the OP posted this:

 

the manual is trying to sell me on their brand's DS-IH

 

...then on behalf of the Korg employee who wrote that section of the manual:

 

64358795.jpg

 

:cop::2thu:

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I would get a Korg Pedal. The reason being that you said ancient and I have had problems with the Yamaha pedals with the Kronos. It works almost 99.99999 of the time but that few times that it doesn't is a show stopper. There's no way to stop the stuck notes - not even after changing combinations/programs etc... those notes stick forever and you need to restart. Not worth it.

Since I switched to the Korg pedal - it has never happened.

 

BTW: NONE of these Yamaha pedals have any problems with any other keyboards or brands. They test perfect on my continuity tests.

Korg Kronos, Roland RD-88, Korg Kross, JP8000, MS2000, Sequential Pro One, Micromoog, Yamaha VL1, author of unrealBook for iPad.

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I had problems with the m-audio pedals occasionally having stuck notes of the Kronos but niot any other keyboards/. When it's happened, just stepping on the pedal again makes the notes stop. Just a guess, but maybe the contact is a bit noisier and the Korg circuit doesn't have measures to make it "bounceless". The ancient Roland brick pedals I use work flawlessly.

Dan

 

Acoustic/Electric stringed instruments ranging from 4 to 230 strings, hammered, picked, fingered, slapped, and plucked. Analog and Digital Electronic instruments, reeds, and throat/mouth.

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Given that the OP posted this:

 

the manual is trying to sell me on their brand's DS-IH

 

...then on behalf of the Korg employee who wrote that section of the manual:

Well, in the OP's defense, step 1 of your quoted passage does specifically say to connect a DS-1H. ;-)

 

I know people get hung up on the word polarity, but it is a perfectly good way to describe the "normally open" vs. "normally closed" pedal design. The word has multiple meanings, it doesn't have to mean electrical or magnetic. It can apply to any two opposite states. I haven't heard a better word to use, it is clear in its meaning in this context, and is even the word Korg used in the quoted section of its manual.

 

Now let's move on to important things, like the true meaning of "keybed" and how everyone mis-uses the phrase "begs the question." ;-)

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I spent a bit of time trying to duplicate that pedal problem. But I can't. It happened several times during a couple of concerts and I couldn't take it. Pressing the pedal, switching modes, different programs/combis nothing worked. I had to restart and that was 2 1/2 mins down in the middle of the song. Sucks.

Korg Kronos, Roland RD-88, Korg Kross, JP8000, MS2000, Sequential Pro One, Micromoog, Yamaha VL1, author of unrealBook for iPad.

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I had to restart and that was 2 1/2 mins down in the middle of the song. Sucks.

The risk of using a Kronos as your only board. I know lots of people use a UPS to protect against a power glitch, but that doesn't help against other kinds of glitches. It's rare, but I've had to restart boards in the middle of gigs just to stop them from doing something strange. Luckily, never the Kronos, but sure, it could happen.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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Individual stuck notes are not a problem with a sustain pedal. Blame something else.

 

BTW, some or all of those old FC4 pedals can be flipped by soldering to a different contact internally. Assuming that's what you have.

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