RichieP_MechE

The youtube algorithm fed it to me, it's magic I tell ya

Cool idea but too fiddly for a live rig I think (unless you can travel with it fully assembled). It takes 18 socket head screw to assemble the frame - even if you left it partially assembled, good luck finding one of those little screws if you drop one on a dark stage. And as others have alluded to, it probably weighs a ton (though I can't find a weight listed for it in any of the documentation)

This is low priority but just making a note here- On the list of threads, can the number of pages display be changed? Red circle here: On the UBB software, the display would be something like 1 2 3... 9 10 11 I liked being able to click a couple pages before the most recent page to catch up on what I missed Though I am also now realizing that clicking on the thread title instead of page number takes me to the last unread post, so maybe my request doesn't matter anymore! As Patron #2, I wholeheartedly endorse this statement!

Button on the bottom right

Well done db and co! 48 MB attachment limit? So luxurious!

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This is how I would implement it if I were a keyboard manufacturer. It's good to have redundancy. One disadvantage to multipin connectors is that they tend to be rated for a fewer number of mating cycles than your standard TS, TRS, and XLR connectors. And ones with higher cycle ratings are $$$. Other considerations are how the cable would be constructed - can get expensive/complicated running signals like USB, AC power, and audio close by each other. Those would probably want to be separate shielded cables instead of putting everything into a single multi-conductor cable. But these are are solvable problems I think. Yes and almost stop a show too. Yep, unfortunately USB still seems to suck at cable lengths longer than a couple meters. USB C connectors are nice though because you can send up to 100W through them which is definitely in the realm of being able to power most keyboards. I've actually made my own breakout box for my pedal board/snake setup. I don't think I ever shared pics of this here before. I have an enclosure with multipin connector for the snake which runs up to an assortment of 1/4" connectors. The breakout box has a built in DI along with 1/8" TRS outs to the pedals, and XLR outs from the DI, along with a couple 1/4" inputs that are original to the DI (which connections are duplicated through the snake). I modified my pedals to have 1/4" inputs (except for the FC5 which is 1/8") then put in a 1/4" - 1/8" adapter to keep the size down and run 1/8" mini cables from pedal to input. Yes, that is the band logo laser etched on the breakout box cover. The little stubby cord on the power strip is my solution to being able to use any ordinary extension cord with this setup. Originally I was going to install an IEC C14 socket on there but decided against it. The power to the keyboard runs in a separate cable that plugs into the power strip and is then bundled in the cable wrap with the multiconductor snake. Internals of the box. The DI is a Switchcraft SC702CT that removed from the factory housing and removed most of the connectors. I replaced them with pigtails to connect to new connectors mounted to my enclosure. Everything is connectorized internally as well to offer the most flexibility and redundancy in case of an emergency. Also makes is easier to replace any one individual connector. The multipin connector is a cheap 16 pin I found on Digikey. I'm not too worried about the cycle life on it since my band doesn't play or practice that often, so I'm only using it about 2 dozen times per year. This is the only picture I have of the snake. I need to add some velcro ties to tame it a bit. Also I used a red cable wrap to match the Nord but I'm probably going to change it to black at some point so it's less noticeable.

I think I'm probably your guy. Here's the one stand I designed but never built, attempting to improve on the K&M 18880 (which I own), turning the sliding joints into rotary joints. I'll shoot you a PM

As a person who designs mechanical things for a living, I have been trying to design a perfect keyboard stand just for me and have yet to come up with something that satisfies just my needs; no matter what, something ends up being compromised - stability, portability, complexity, and so on.

Height of the 18880 is adjustable. It is not quick though, you need a 10 mm wrench to loosen the fasteners at the bottom of the legs and change the height.

Haven't cut down a stand myself but I imagine it would be possible. Another option is the Samson SP50P - slightly longer than the Yorkville stand (5' max height vs 4') but is essentially identical in construction to standard speakers stands. Has a locking pin. I have a pair for a small PA for a community concert band I used to play in and they have held up well. http://www.samsontech.com/samson/products/accessories/speaker-stands/sp50p/

Congrats Mr. MOI! A great milestone on the KC, but no doubt pales in comparison to your finest achievement - inventing the Nord Lead.

I definitely missed having her voice around here the past several years. Rest in peace, Sue.

I found 4 patents under Tom's name, all have expired. Maximum period of a design patent in the US is 20 years no matter what, they can't be renewed like trademarks.

Happy Birthday Mike!

Such a tragic loss - my sincere condolences to you and your family, Grey.

Beta testing of the UB-Xa is complete

^^^ what he said. These kind of portable batteries are rated in Wh (Watt-hours). A 100 Wh battery will provide 100W continuously for 1 hour. Divide the battery rating by the total power consumption of all of your devices to determine how long your battery will least. For example, equipment pulling 200W will run for about 30 minutes on a 100 Wh battery. Something in the 200-300 Wh range should give you a comfortable 1 hour runtime with overhead for your beach gig. *edit* looking at some of these battery units, the AC plug has a current limit on the output, so make sure your total power draw doesn't exceed that. Though it looks like most are rated to at least 200W which should be no problem for a single speaker + KB

This is not an official Behringer design, FYI - https://heinakroon.net/positron-16/

It turns out that genetics don't matter Got my second dose Wednesday afternoon, felt fine for the rest of the day. Woke up in the middle of the night with a headache, took some tylenol and went back to bed. Headache was lingering in the morning but I felt ok enough to work from home for the day. I made it about an hour before I gave up and took the day off, within a couple hours I had a fever of 101 F. By early afternoon the fever was coming down and I was feeling better, by evening things were mostly back to normal. Glad that's over with! Looking forward to jamming with my bandmates in a couple weeks once we're all vaxxed up.

Hi Eric, My identity was stolen back December 2018. My guess is they got my social security number and other data from the big OPM data breach in 2015 (I had a summer internship with a government contractor years earlier that required a secret clearance). I was actually first notified of a credit card being opened in my name by a credit monitoring service that was provided by OPM. At first, I ignored the notification email because previous ones were just the generic "your email has been found on the dark web"! Soon, more credit cards and cellular phone accounts were opened in my name. The first step was to put a credit freeze in place with the three credit bureaus, as it appears you have already done. I then reported my identity theft at https://www.identitytheft.gov/ . I would recommend filing a police report, as you tend to need one to get the accounts closed and the hard pulls off of your credit record (though not sure how this applies to your situation with unemployment fraud) You can do this at your local police department, just call them up and say that you need to report your identity as stolen. I brought copies of all of the various phone bills and credit card applications in to them, though I don't know if they actually needed any of that. The officer wrote up a report within a couple hours (though I don't know what the turnaround time of your local police department will be). After that, it was just spending a million hours on the phone with all of the fraud departments at the various companies where accounts were opened. The good thing (well, not actually "good") is that ID theft is so common these days that every company seems to have a fraud department to resolve these issues. Some companies were still slower to get things done than others, but in about 3 months I had all of the credit inquiries removed from my credit report. Once that was taken care of, my credit rating was back to where it was pre-ID theft. While having my ID stolen was definitely a violating feeling, in the end it wasn't really that big of a deal, aside from just being a big time suck getting things straightened out. My sense is that most people stealing identities view them as disposable, so as soon as that social security number doesn't work to open a new account, they move on to the next one. It's unlikely that they are going to try and totally ruin your life. My recommendation to anyone based in the USA reading this: go and put a credit freeze in place with Experian, Equifax, and Transunion right now. It is free, and once you have it set up, it's easy to remove the freeze temporarily when you're opening a new credit card, getting and auto loan, etc. If I had a credit freeze in place, the ID thief wouldn't have been able to open any accounts even though they had my social security number.

Usually the only thing you have to clean off of a slide (or negative) is dust. Use canned air or a roket duster. You can also use a small anti-static brush, though with those there is a higher risk of scratching the emulsion on the film. If the slides have been roughly handled at all in their life, any scratches will become very apparent once you scan them. The only way to fix that is editing the digital file once it's been scanned.

I'd disagree with others here that you couldn't build a solid, functional stand from PVC. However I definitely agree that it would look bad/cheap. Furniture grade PVC will appear nicer than what you can buy at the home improvement store, but it still tends to have the look of something that came out of a 1970s DIY furniture book.

I'd get a Mono M80 if I were in the market for a backpack-style case. My bass player friend has one of their guitar cases and it is of excellent quality. The Mono site lists them as currently unavailable though I can find it in stock at various US-based music retailers.