Feel free to ask Myles

[BlueZet]

hey miles, I have a couple of questions for you:

 

1 - have you ever heard of the "VR02 - 15W L-pad attenuator" from AmpMaker , does this work?

 

2 - I have just bought me a BRONX 112 amp (Fender Blues Deluxe clone), that has a decent basic sound, but it "feels" a bit "stiff", now that could be the speaker - a huge TheGovernor from Emininence - that hasn't had enough playing time yet, but also I find the tone controls are not very effective: they seem to be working in the last 1/4 of their throw only, so adjusting it is a bit hard. The amp being Korean, I suspect the pots are of the cheaper kind. Am I right in this, and if so, will changing them enhance performance of the amp and what brand / type would you suggest

 

3 - also on this amp: there is a "clean" and a "drive" channel - which pre amp tubes do I change to lower the drive in the drive channel? I basically want "clean" and "a little less clean" - as in just make it growl a bit

 

thx in advance for your time

 

jO

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bluesape:

Hey Myles,

 

I've been asked to find out what output tubes you'd suggest for a Hiwatt DR103, and a DR112 P.A. head. I know they're EL34s, and that these are fixed bias units. Both seem to be early '80s.

 

Thanks,

 

Reif

Reif,

 

I like either....

 

E34LS (a 30 watt EL34) in a #5-6 rating in the Hiwatts....

 

or ....

 

the EL-34R2 in a 6-7 rating (these are 25 watt tubes).

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by obggp:

I have a mesa boogie nomad 45 watt amp, I play clean, blues, metal, and like the rectified mesa sound. The tubes are 12ax7 and el84. One or more of the tubes are out and I wanted to replace them with some that can still maintain the clean class A sound but turn around and still be able to churn awesome distortion out. I have a limited budget and have looked at electro harmonix and groove tubes. Any others (nos phillips or GE and would these be a cure all tone booster)? I know that this is your field. What are your suggestions for the preamp stage (especially input stage) and power tubes. And should I bias these tubes myself or take it to an amplifier tech? Thank you for your time.

Tube choice and selection is very much personal

taste and preference. You can find a document that

will go into this in great detail, and give you

information on tube types, characteristics, and also

on the rating system used by GT, conversion from

Mesa to GT and Fender to GT tables, matching information

and more.

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com is the

website, and the document is the Tube Primer, v1.31

which has a link and button for download or viewing.

 

V1.31 is 47 pages and not too bad to download.

 

v3.20 is in two sections and about 200 total pages

total, if you want a LOT of info.

 

On rating numbers:

 

Basically, a #1 will distort sooner, and a #10 later. If, for example,

with a mid range tube, say a #5, makes your amp start to break in the

output section at a volume setting on the amp of "4", then with a lower

number tube, like a #2, your amp would have a same sort of break into

output distortion at say a volume setting of "3". With a higher tube,

such as an #8, then you amp would stay clean to about perhaps "6" on

the volume.

 

High rating numbers are not more or less powerful, they just distort

later. These are preferred by heavy rocker that want maximum clean

output, as they get their distortion and tone from effects or pedals.

These are not as touch dynamic.

 

Low number tubes are very touch dynamic, and more suited for a

lot of folks, for smaller venues and recording.

 

Most folks prefer the 4-7 range tubes, as they are the closest in character

and touch to what the amplifier designer had in mind. They are also the most

versatile.

 

On scale conversions:

 

On Fender amps, output tubes in newer amps are

color coded. The scale is:

 

Blue = GT 1-3 rating

White = GT 4-7 rating

Red = GT 8-10 rating

 

On Mesa Boogie amps there are six color codes.

All of them are in the GT 4-6 range. These amps

have a fixed bias to staying in this range is the

same as Mesa tubes.

 

Mesa vs Groove Tubes scale

 

Red 4

Yellow 4

Green 5

Gray 5

Blue 6

White 6

 

The list of current GT preamp tubes is here:

http://www.groovetubes.com/tubes_list.cfm?ObjectGroup_ID=107

 

The list of current GT output tubes is here:

http://www.groovetubes.com/tubes_list.cfm?ObjectGroup_ID=108

 

The list of fun things and things like bias tools is here:

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

 

The rest of the GT product line can be seen from the first page

of the GT website from the pull down menus.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by badblues:

hey miles, I have a couple of questions for you:

 

1 - have you ever heard of the "VR02 - 15W L-pad attenuator" from AmpMaker , does this work?

 

2 - I have just bought me a BRONX 112 amp (Fender Blues Deluxe clone), that has a decent basic sound, but it "feels" a bit "stiff", now that could be the speaker - a huge TheGovernor from Emininence - that hasn't had enough playing time yet, but also I find the tone controls are not very effective: they seem to be working in the last 1/4 of their throw only, so adjusting it is a bit hard. The amp being Korean, I suspect the pots are of the cheaper kind. Am I right in this, and if so, will changing them enhance performance of the amp and what brand / type would you suggest

 

3 - also on this amp: there is a "clean" and a "drive" channel - which pre amp tubes do I change to lower the drive in the drive channel? I basically want "clean" and "a little less clean" - as in just make it growl a bit

 

thx in advance for your time

 

jO

If you amp is a clone of the Fender blues deluxe, play with V1 and read a few posts above on tube selection.

 

I do not know the attenuator you asked about.

[BlueZet]

thx for the quick reply myles

 

how about the tone pots, is it worth the money to (have someone) put in higher grade pots?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by badblues:

thx for the quick reply myles

 

how about the tone pots, is it worth the money to (have someone) put in higher grade pots?

I'd leave these alone for now if they are not noisy or scratchy and if the taper works well for your playing.

[BlueZet]

no noise or scratch, but the taper is only about 1/4 of what it could be, which is why I was thinking about replacements. Any suggestions about good price/quality ratio brand?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by badblues:

no noise or scratch, but the taper is only about 1/4 of what it could be, which is why I was thinking about replacements. Any suggestions about good price/quality ratio brand?

CTS

[henrysb3]

Myles, I have a Pilotone hi-fi amp that my dad and I assembled in the fifties, before stereo. It's got two 12AX7's and two 6V6's, a 12AU7,6C4, and 5Y3GT. There are four controls: volume, treble, bass and "Equalizer", which I take to be inputs - FOR, LP, NAB, AES, RIAA, RADIO, AUX I and AUX II. I pulled the tubes years ago and packed them in something soft and boxed up the amp.

 

It's starting to intrigue me, especially with the preamp and power tube combination that's found on lots of nice guitar amps. I opened the bottom plate and saw that Dad and I did a fairly workmanlike soldering job. I remember it worked fine when we hooked it up to our Garrard turntable and a Jensen 12" speaker that was mounted directly to a hole cut in the knotty pine paneling of our basement. I have no idea how many times "Heartbreak Hotel" played thru this setup. Must have driven Dad a little nuts realizing his contribution to the "that racket", as he called it. I'm now older than he was when we put this kit together.

 

The inputs are RCA jacks, with trim pots for hum balance, phono level and phono load. There are several speaker load options in back. I thought this might be a neat little project to use with some sort of direct box to get a correct level into the AUX input. I realize the caps are probably dry and the power cord is history. I think these were kind of on the same level as Dynaco, with quality components. I wouldn't be taking it on the road. Were these amps designed to be so clean that instruments couldn't "bloom" in sound when driven? Should I have a good psychologist on hand?

 

BTW, Myles, your are a prince for your patience.

 

Henry

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by henrysb3:

Myles, I have a Pilotone hi-fi amp that my dad and I assembled in the fifties, before stereo. It's got two 12AX7's and two 6V6's, a 12AU7,6C4, and 5Y3GT. There are four controls: volume, treble, bass and "Equalizer", which I take to be inputs - FOR, LP, NAB, AES, RIAA, RADIO, AUX I and AUX II. I pulled the tubes years ago and packed them in something soft and boxed up the amp.

 

It's starting to intrigue me, especially with the preamp and power tube combination that's found on lots of nice guitar amps. I opened the bottom plate and saw that Dad and I did a fairly workmanlike soldering job. I remember it worked fine when we hooked it up to our Garrard turntable and a Jensen 12" speaker that was mounted directly to a hole cut in the knotty pine paneling of our basement. I have no idea how many times "Heartbreak Hotel" played thru this setup. Must have driven Dad a little nuts realizing his contribution to the "that racket", as he called it. I'm now older than he was when we put this kit together.

 

The inputs are RCA jacks, with trim pots for hum balance, phono level and phono load. There are several speaker load options in back. I thought this might be a neat little project to use with some sort of direct box to get a correct level into the AUX input. I realize the caps are probably dry and the power cord is history. I think these were kind of on the same level as Dynaco, with quality components. I wouldn't be taking it on the road. Were these amps designed to be so clean that instruments couldn't "bloom" in sound when driven? Should I have a good psychologist on hand?

 

BTW, Myles, your are a prince for your patience.

 

Henry

Henry,

 

I will take this step by step ...

 

 

Myles, I have a Pilotone hi-fi amp that my dad and I assembled in the fifties, before stereo.

 

.......... so far I am with you.

 

 

It's got two 12AX7's and two 6V6's, a 12AU7,6C4, and 5Y3GT.

 

........ All tubes (and a rectifier) that are easy to get, not expensive, and quite available.

 

 

There are four controls: volume, treble, bass and "Equalizer", which I take to be inputs - FOR, LP, NAB, AES, RIAA, RADIO, AUX I and AUX II.

 

..... The various input EQ are for things like ... RIAA - some records played with photo cartridges ..... NAB - National association of broadcasters - another "record" EQ format .... LP and AES are addition forms of record and tone arm cartridge EQ. Aux 1 and 2 are for line level inputs such as a tape recorder or tuner for radio broadcast and it looks like Radio is for a tuner as well.

 

I pulled the tubes years ago and packed them in something soft and boxed up the amp.

 

It's starting to intrigue me, especially with the preamp and power tube combination that's found on lots of nice guitar amps. I opened the bottom plate and saw that Dad and I did a fairly workmanlike soldering job. I remember it worked fine when we hooked it up to our Garrard turntable and a Jensen 12" speaker that was mounted directly to a hole cut in the knotty pine paneling of our basement. I have no idea how many times "Heartbreak Hotel" played thru this setup. Must have driven Dad a little nuts realizing his contribution to the "that racket", as he called it. I'm now older than he was when we put this kit together.

 

.... I remember the Garrard changers. I had a Thorens TD-125AB turntable ... about the same era. The Gerrard was considered the best of the changers by many folks.

 

The inputs are RCA jacks, with trim pots for hum balance, phono level and phono load. There are several speaker load options in back. I thought this might be a neat little project to use with some sort of direct box to get a correct level into the AUX input. I realize the caps are probably dry and the power cord is history. I think these were kind of on the same level as Dynaco, with quality components. I wouldn't be taking it on the road. Were these amps designed to be so clean that instruments couldn't "bloom" in sound when driven? Should I have a good psychologist on hand?

 

..... This could be a very cool project and you may find that a simple preamp would work easily with the line level AUX input. Something like a GT "The Brick" would work with ease but at $500 it would be WAY more than what is needed. There are a lot of units out there for less than $100, maybe even less than $50. You could also probably use any of the "boss" sort of pedal model things out there and go direct into the AUX. A Line 6 POD would work too.

 

BTW, Myles, your are a prince for your patience.

 

.......... You are more than welcome.

 

........... Let us all know how things progress!

[darkviper]

I own a HH VS musician combo and a HH IC100L combo. I would like to make myself a footswitch for the 7-pin DIN connection. Herefor it would be great to know the pin layout for these connection and the wiring for the footswitch. I already know that the reverb and the Valvestate are switchable on the VS musician. Do you have the schematics for these amps? please email me or leave a message

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by darkviper:

I own a HH VS musician combo and a HH IC100L combo. I would like to make myself a footswitch for the 7-pin DIN connection. Herefor it would be great to know the pin layout for these connection and the wiring for the footswitch. I already know that the reverb and the Valvestate are switchable on the VS musician. Do you have the schematics for these amps? please email me or leave a message

I am sorry but I have no info on this unit.

 

I would contact the manufacturer directly.

[Blue Note]

Hello Myles,

 

It's been a while since I've needed to bother you but I ran across a review on Harmony Central about a modification done to a Marshall JCM 800 model 2210 amp that I would like your oppinion.

 

The post said " I snipped C3 and rewired the Ohm selector switch switching the 8, 16 ohm positions" he claimed this made his clean channel "as clean as a Super Reverb" and really "smoothed out" his distortion on the hi gain channel.

 

These are what I have always felt this amp needed except I would like to smooth out the hi gain and also sweeten up both hi gain and clean channel.

 

If you could describe what it is he may have done and whether or not you would recommend such a change, or if you have another remedy for these results I sure would appreciate it.

 

I tried to email the guy who made the post but no response.

 

Thanks for Your time,

 

Blue Note

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Hello Myles,

 

It's been a while since I've needed to bother you but I ran across a review on Harmony Central about a modification done to a Marshall JCM 800 model 2210 amp that I would like your oppinion.

 

The post said " I snipped C3 and rewired the Ohm selector switch switching the 8, 16 ohm positions" he claimed this made his clean channel "as clean as a Super Reverb" and really "smoothed out" his distortion on the hi gain channel.

 

These are what I have always felt this amp needed except I would like to smooth out the hi gain and also sweeten up both hi gain and clean channel.

 

If you could describe what it is he may have done and whether or not you would recommend such a change, or if you have another remedy for these results I sure would appreciate it.

 

I tried to email the guy who made the post but no response.

 

Thanks for Your time,

 

Blue Note

I think this guys take on things has a unique slant. Clipping a cap will do nothing to change the multi stage gain or cathode follower tone circuit. If you want an amp that has the cleans of a Fender Blackface then procure a Fender Blackface.

[Gifthorse]

Myles, I was wondering. I have read a bunch of people, including Allan Holdsworth who use an attenuater outside of the one in the UNI or BIvalve. Is there a reason? Is the hotplate the same in the Bivalve as the regular Hotplate?

 

I ordered some JJ KT 77's this week after reading countless positive reviews from people who are using them. The KT88's you suggested are next, I just wanted to get something a little closer to the E34L.

 

My singer just bought an Airbrake for his VHT online. You said that the Airbrake is better than the hotplate.

 

God after hearing the Brett Garsed clips of the Flexi 50 it makes me one to get one of those too. Any comments on the Flexi? How do you think the Flexi compares to the competition for the price?

[Gifthorse]

By the way, I am sorry to hear about Dr. Z's amp tech dying. Sad news, I am sure he was a classy guy.

[Bluesape]

Also sorry to hear that, Myles.

[Bluesape]

Hi, Myles

 

I've been asked to unpin the March '06 Sales and Spams thread, and to replace it with the April one. I could delete the posts and rename the thread, but don't know how to unstick one and restick another. Can you PM me with advice on this?

 

Thanks,

 

Reif

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by flagshipmile:

Myles, I was wondering. I have read a bunch of people, including Allan Holdsworth who use an attenuater outside of the one in the UNI or BIvalve. Is there a reason? Is the hotplate the same in the Bivalve as the regular Hotplate?

 

I ordered some JJ KT 77's this week after reading countless positive reviews from people who are using them. The KT88's you suggested are next, I just wanted to get something a little closer to the E34L.

 

My singer just bought an Airbrake for his VHT online. You said that the Airbrake is better than the hotplate.

 

God after hearing the Brett Garsed clips of the Flexi 50 it makes me one to get one of those too. Any comments on the Flexi? How do you think the Flexi compares to the competition for the price?

Bruce,

 

The reason somebody might opt for a hot plate vs the internal device on the UV and BV is that the HP has more features that may be used.

 

The Airbrake is not better or worse than a hot plate ... they each have their own cool aspects.

 

The Flexi is a great amp. It boils down to personal taste. It does have very little clean headroom though, no matter what the tube compliment.

[myles_rose]

Reif,

 

Look in the bottom bar where it says, close topic and delete topic ... there is an "unfeature topic". Just unfeature it and start a new one and feature the new one.

[myles_rose]

Wolfgang (Kurt) will be missed by all.

[Gifthorse]

I sent Brett Garsed an email about the Flexi and he returned it. Nice person, incredible player. You ever hear his stuff Myles? Damn, that guy can play like a sumbitch. Definately world class on every level.

 

I would love to see a tour with Brett Garsed, Eric Johnson, Hellecasters, Junior Brown. Tell me that wouldn't be a badass show?? OK no more clutter in the Myles forum, sorry.

[Fumblyfingers]

Nice player this Brett Garsed. I listened to clips of his album Big Sky, too bad it is not available as an album download. I played with Toss Panos for about a year, nice to hear him again also.

 

 

Myles, I have an old ADA MP-1 MIDI programmable pre-amp.I used to use it for a live rig, now it is in the studio but I don't use it. I seem to remember rants about it having a built in compressor that is on all the time and it gives it a sort of "ringy" sound.

 

I once heard of a mod for this pre-amp that is supposed to make it sound pretty good.

 

Do you know anything about this and whether it is worth pursuing. I have a POD for direct studio noodling, so I wonder if spending money on the ADA is worth it.

Thanks.

[myles_rose]

The ADA was a cool piece of gear in the 80s but I would only put a new 12AX7C in the tube slot in there and just use it for what it is for the most part.

[Fumblyfingers]

Copy that, thanks.

[Rhino Madness]

Originally posted by Fumblyfingers:

I once heard of a mod for this pre-amp that is supposed to make it sound pretty good.

You can find some info about the ADA Mods here .

 

You could probably also contact Voodoo Amps and talk to them as they offer some mods for ADA preamps.

 

I am in no way recommending for or against these mods, I'm just offering sites with some more info as I only have experienced their stock preamps.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Rhino Madness:

Originally posted by Fumblyfingers:

I once heard of a mod for this pre-amp that is supposed to make it sound pretty good.

You can find some info about the ADA Mods here .

 

You could probably also contact Voodoo Amps and talk to them as they offer some mods for ADA preamps.

 

I am in no way recommending for or against these mods, I'm just offering sites with some more info as I only have experienced their stock preamps.

Thanks for the links .... it's always nice to have more info sources.

 

Voodoo Amps in New York does outstanding work as a side note on many things.

[rsf1977]

hey myles, I'm about to retube my new ENGL Fireball to do some experimenting with the sound. Any tube suggestions. Any I'm looking for crushing metal tones only... as always lol

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rsf1977:

hey myles, I'm about to retube my new ENGL Fireball to do some experimenting with the sound. Any tube suggestions. Any I'm looking for crushing metal tones only... as always lol

It is basically a matter of personal taste.

[rsf1977]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by rsf1977:

hey myles, I'm about to retube my new ENGL Fireball to do some experimenting with the sound. Any tube suggestions. Any I'm looking for crushing metal tones only... as always lol

It is basically a matter of personal taste.

I guess I'll know what I want tonally different as I play with it, but are there any popular tube setups with it that you know of? Also do I need to re-bias it with every power tube change or can I just get tubes in a certain rating like my dual recto