Yamaha Reface YC repair

[Jose EB5AGV]

On my quest to own all four Refaces (everyone is allowed to pursuit silly things, right? 😅), my third one has been the YC (I had already the DX and CP)

 

I bought it used and with some known small faults. So the first thing I did, after a preliminary operation test (all worked fine), was to open it. I had never opened a Reface before and it is really easy and it is very well built. Here you have some detailed pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

The power connector was not too firm, and I have found it is cracked:

 

 

 

So the first thing I will do is to repair that broken part. There is also a missing red ON/OFF switch knob (only the plastic cap, the toggle switch is OK) and another plastic cap which is a bit damaged on its internal side, but can be fixed.

 

More to come!

[AUSSIEKEYS]

Keep them coming

[Jose EB5AGV]

Well, I finally have had some time to devote to this project!

 

The Reface YC was in pretty decent shape, except for a missing rocker switch cap and two others which were somewhat damaged. It also had a broken power connector socket. I have done some work on these problems and here you have some detais which, I hope, may be helpful to you.

 

To fix the broken power connector, I have desoldered it from its tiny PCB:

 

 

Then I have used some Super Glue:

 

 

 

And then I have added some bi-component epoxy to strengthen it:

 

 

And this is the result:

 

 

Then I have worked on the rocker switch caps. One had a loose part which luckily was found inside the unit:

 

 

First, some Super Glue to keep them in one piece:

 

 

And then a trick I have used lots of times with success, as just the glue won't keep that in place for long. So I add some turns of wire-wrapping, preformed on an screw driver:

 

 

That coil is then placed on the parts I want to strength, as tight as possible, and then "paint" them with Super Glue:

 

 

When the glue is hard, I can cut the wire excess, and this is the final repair:

 

 

That works nicely and is harder to break than the original cap!

 

I have done the same with another green cap:

 

 

 

This is how the unit looks after this work:

 

 

So now all what remains is to replace the missing rocker cap. I have been playing it and is quite a lovely keyboard to play.

 

HINT: I will add the coiled reinforcement before installing it, as these caps seem to be quite fragile!

[AUSSIEKEYS]

These are the sort of repairs that are very interesting. This is restoring. Keeping the item original.

 

Especially interesting when parts for older keyboards become long obselete. 

 

Many of these type of repairs i have done when i was restoring electronics on vintage radio control cars. Parts for electronics are long not available.

 

Fortunately i kept a lot of broken used transmitters and receivers. But eventually those often have the same broken parts leading you to do very similar repairs. I repaired many vintage rc cars. Modern Rc didnt interest me. Besides i used to race in the vintage rc days so its nostalgia like restoring vintage keybords.

I find any of my keyboards ive repaired ive tried to keep them with original parts if possible just for its history.

 

Keep em coming

 

 

[Jim Alfredson]

In regards to super glue, I found a Loctite super glue specifically made for hard to glue plastic that comes with an activator. I used it to fix a broken key tab on a Fatar keybed in a Moog Grandmother. I also strengthened the bond with a piece of metal inside the tab. But honestly the activator / super glue combo worked so well I don't know that I needed the reinforcement. 

In acoustic piano repair, an old method is to use sewing thread to strengthen the glue bond on a broken hammer shank. Wood glue the two pieces and then wrap tightly with thread. The excess glue leaks out, in between the wraps of thread, and strengthens the repair even more. 

[Jose EB5AGV]

Well, I finally got the part I needed to complete this project!

 

 

If you look in detail, they have changed the design to prevent what I found broken in two other SEESAW KNOBS as they call them. So no need to reinforce this one! 🎉

 

 

My YC was screaming for help! 😭

 

 

Here you have it!

 

 

And the final unit, looking gorgeous:

 

 

And this is THE END for this one. Not big deal on it, really. But the details are what makes a job perfect and I am all in for the small details 🤩

 

 

[TomKittel]

On 12/1/2023 at 12:48 PM, Jose EB5AGV said:

Well, I finally got the part I needed to complete this project!

 

 

If you look in detail, they have changed the design to prevent what I found broken in two other SEESAW KNOBS as they call them. So no need to reinforce this one! 🎉

 

 

My YC was screaming for help! 😭

 

 

Here you have it!

 

 

And the final unit, looking gorgeous:

 

 

And this is THE END for this one. Not big deal on it, really. But the details are what makes a job perfect and I am all in for the small details 🤩

 

 

 

Good job, congrats!

 

BTW: Some interesting plastic repair techniques in this video:

 

 

 

[Jose EB5AGV]

12 hours ago, TomKittel said:

 

Good job, congrats!

 

BTW: Some interesting plastic repair techniques in this video:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the video!

 

It is curious how I had arrived to some very similar techniques over the years. The idea of embedding metal parts on plastic by heating them has saved lots of knobs and other mechanical plastic things I have fixed (*). What I have not yet tried is the soda/ash + Super Glue trick. Will do!

 

(*) I have recalled one which was specially useful for me. I will post it soon!