Project P-Bass Build

[Nicklab]

A brief update. I've had the week off and I have finally been able to devote some time to the project P-bass. This afternoon I was able to do some work on the bass, and worked some of the rust out of my soldering skills.

 

Am I totally pleased with the results? Eh. What I'll offer is this: the control cavity of your average Precision bass is a bit tighter than you might think. It demands that you keep your wire runs VERY neat and tight. To the point where I may re-wire the bass tomorrow. Photos will follow, and if I'm able to get the wiring done, then the whole bass is going to get done.

[SteveC]

Back when I had time and better eyes, I built a couple "parts" basses. One that I really liked was a Precision. I bought a Precision body - probably a MIM - and a Jazz neck - again, probably MIM. I used Hipshot Tuners, a SD pup, and a P-Retro preamp. I think I used a BadAss bridge. Strung it with TI Flats. That was a great playing and sounding bass. I finished it in time to use for a gig where we were the backing band for Al Wilson. Played "show and Tell" a couple times on that gig. I do remember he commented that he liked the bass and asked for more in his monitor.

 

I also took a Lake Placid Blue MIM Jazz and put in a Sadowsky preamp, DiMarzzio pups, a BadAss bridge and white pearl guard. That was a killer jazz bass. USed it for quite a while actually.

 

If I was better at soldering, had a work space and wasn't spoiled by Roscoe's, I think it'd be fun to do some "building" again.

[Nicklab]

I took this week off from work. I had some time off that I was able to carry over, and it provided me enough time to get some things done at home and get the infamous project P-Bass wired up! So, what does it ACTUALLY involve?

 

First, getting the pickup mounted in the body. The pickup I went with is the Seymour Duncan Antiquity II Precision pickup. It's got the old-school type of tone that I wanted for this bass. Mounting it is fairly straightforward. There's a mounting plate that sits underneath the pickup magnets, and glued to that are strips of foam. Those provide some of the springiness to the pickup that let you dial in your pickup height.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/020_zpse63262f5.jpg

 

Four screws go through the pickup covers and into pre-drilled holes in the body. This is where using a parted out body is helpful, since the pickup screw mounting holes have already been drilled. Otherwise, you might have to use the pickguard as a template for mounting the pickup.

 

Coming from the pickup are two leads from the pickup. Because wiring schemes can vary from bass to bass, Seymour Duncan leaves these wires fairly long so that they can reach controls in a variety of positions. In an attempt to recreate the same materials that you would see in a vintage instrument Duncan wrapped the wires in a cloth jacket. You're very likely to see this kind of cloth wrap in a Fender vintage reissue as well. The one hitch? The cloth wrap makes stripping the wire a little more labor intensive.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/022_zps52aa1a6d.jpg

 

So what next? It's time to break out the soldering iron! Because the only good way to connect your pickup to the volume and tone controls is through solder joints. Thankfully, both Seymour Duncan and Stewart MacDonald (where I got the pots, output jack, capacitor and additional wire) provide schematics on how to wire a P-Bass.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/021_zpsbb1ea521.jpg

 

Then, the soldering begins. That means tinning every surface that's going to get soldered. Simply stated, that means applying solder to the wire ends and connection points on the pots and output jack.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/023_zps64804a5f.jpg

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/024_zpsbdb0c62a.jpg

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/027_zps1367a338.jpg

 

 

...to be continued!

[Basshappi]

Lookin' real good there Nick, well done sir.

Black, rosewod and tort are one of my favorite combinations, I have a Jazz like that except that I have cream-colored DiMarzios in it, which is like icing on he cake in that combo for me.

[Bottom End]

Really nice! I think I will build my own P Bass one day, but I need to improve my soldering skills first.

[Nicklab]

Go for it, Bottom End! Soldering is actually a lot easier than you might think.

 

A little more from my work on the P-Bass. So, it turns out that soldering is something that takes some focus. Hence, fewer photos.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/026_zpsc1a5df53.jpg

 

The leads on the pots as well as the wire ends need to be tinned in advance. It makes joining the wire to the pots far easier.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/028_zpsa30b2ab9.jpg

 

Some significant things to keep in mind? First, mount the pots on the pickguard. This might seem kind of obvious, but doing this helps to keep everything in the position it will be in when you attach the pickguard to the body. And you need to keep your wire runs very neat given the tight nature of the control cavity.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/030_zps9c1b2eb6.jpg

 

If you don't keep those wire runs neat? It's very possible that you might wind up with some excess wire that could end up under the pickguard and it won't mount flush.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/029_zps7d49960d.jpg

 

Also important? Grounding the strings and bridge. Most modern basses have a hold drilled for a ground wire. That wire runs from the body of the volume pot through a hole in the body that ends up under the bridge. Be sure to strip back the wire enough at the bridge end so that it will spread out somewhat under the bridge plate.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/031_zps1125960a.jpg

 

When all the wirings done? Slap on the pickguard and get it fastened down. From here it's a matter of mounting the bridge and then getting the instrument strung.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/032_zps686ec1c6.jpg

 

Sorry, no images right now of the bass with the bridge and strings. And none for at least a few more days. Why? It's about knowing your limits. I can do the rough work of basic parts assembly. Fastening on the tuners, bridge and other hardware is simple if you've got rudimentary skills with a screwdriver. Wiring up the bass is pretty easy too, if you have some basic training with a soldering iron and the schematics.

 

But adjusting a neck that hasn't been used for months? That can take a little more training and experience. I can tweak a truss rod for some basic adjustments, but the neck on the project P-Bass needed a little more attention than I could give it. So I brought it over to my favorite musical instrument shop for a setup. I think it will be money well spent in the long run.

 

 

[Bottom End]

Thanks for the tips and pictures. I may just take the plunge later this year if my situation allows.

[jeremy c]

That's going to be a beautiful bass and I'm sure that it's going to sound great as well.

 

Good work.

 

p.s. I put a tortoise shell pickguard on my black/rosewood P-bass copy and because it looks so much better, I want to play it more often.

(no real tortoises were harmed in the making of this project)

[_Sweet Willie_]

Nice progress. Congrats.

 

Peace.

--s-uu

 

[Nicklab]

Thanks, everyone! This project has been a cool way to explore some things that I've wanted to do for some time. Especially since I'm taken a somewhat extended sabbatical from gigging.

 

As soon as the bass is back from the shop I'll be sure to post some pics. And of course it's going to have the bridge, strings and even a tug bar!!!! But what to call this proud beauty?

[Nicklab]

This project has taken longer than I thought. But earlier this week I was able to pick it up from my local tech who managed to get the neck relief on this bass just right. I decided to go with medium action because I dig in a fair amount. And after plugging the bass in I'm definitely pleased with the results. But what about pics? This post is useless without pics! So here they are:

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/071_zps5142e005.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/072_zpsaa9728af.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/080_zpscf4cfaee.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/073_zpsbc6dfd9a.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/077_zps15c4d1c2.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/078_zps8dff6dbc.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/081_zpsdfdaba30.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/082_zps76aa3a8c.jpg

 

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/084_zpsa1926e18.jpg

[Bottom End]

That looks great!

[_Sweet Willie_]

Terrific! Can't wait to finger it at some point!

 

Peace.

--s-uu

 

[kenfxj]

That came out looking fantastic Nick! Makes me want to pick it up and start playing. If it sounds half as good as it looks you have a real keeper there. Best of luck with it!

 

But what to call this proud beauty?

I suck at naming basses which is why I haven't named any of mine. I have a black dog I named Molly...

[Bottom End]

DO you mind giving an estimate on what the materials cost you?

[Nicklab]

Sure. I wound up going with a variety of sources for materials.

 

-Body: eBay / Stratosphere

-Neck: Talkbass classifieds

-Pickup: MusicZoo

-Pickguard: Pickguard Heaven / Chandler Instruments

-Wiring harness & Pots: Stewart MacDonald

-Bridge & Tuners: Alto Music

 

All told it was about $750 in materials. Tack on another $50 for setup and getting the relief right on the neck, and I think it was money well spent. I just need to dig out some foam to put under the strings at the bridge.

 

[Groove Mama]

That is one gorgeous hunk o' wood! Nicely done, Nick!

 

But what to call this proud beauty?

Sorry; no clue. I'm still calling my P bass "my P bass."

[wraub]

That came out great! Ano guard or not, that looks really good.

 

Especially dig the darker tort guard, as opposed to a brighter red/pepperoni type.

 

Looking forward to sound clips, but I will hazard a guess that it sounds like a P bass.

 

Will you logo the peghead, or leave it naked?

 

[SteveC]

Looks great!

[Nicklab]

That came out great! Ano guard or not, that looks really good.

 

Thanks, Wraub! I appreciate how you've been following the progress of this project both here and over at TB. And if you're still interested in the ano guard just drop me a line.

 

 

Especially dig the darker tort guard, as opposed to a brighter red/pepperoni type.

 

The darker tort really has grown on me. And I think it was the conversation that I had with the very nice lady at Chandler who helped me firm up my decision. She informed me about the difference between the brown and red, and let me know that the brown is actually the real deal material from Italy that wound up on so many vintage Fenders. Over time the brown ages and will eventually turn into that red tort that we see on so many great old instruments.

 

And the red tort that's on the market? That's basically a printout that's been laminated to a pickguard. Not the kind of thing that I wanted to do with this instrument. I specifically wanted some old school appointments on this bass: nitro finish on the body and neck. Vintage style tuners and bridge. Cloth covered wiring like on a vintage Fender, etc. Having gone to that extent for all of the other parts, it seemed like the authentic tort material was the right way to go.

 

Looking forward to sound clips, but I will hazard a guess that it sounds like a P bass.

 

I daresay that it's likely to be the case. That being said, I need to get this bass out and played. I can only play so much around the house, so I'm going to hit some jams when I can. As for recording it? That may take a little bit of time.

 

Will you logo the peghead, or leave it naked?

 

Good question. The guy that sold me the neck also threw in a Fender Precision Bass waterslide decal. But when the neck got delivered to me we had a torrential rain storm. Whoever did the delivery didn't wrap the box in plastic and the box was drenched when it got inside. Unfortunately the decal had been in a paper envelope which also got wet, and it was damaged to the point of being unusable.

 

Now would it be cool to put a Fender logo on this headstock? I'm on the fence about that. It's an Allparts Jazz bass neck, and as such is licensed by Fender. The heel of the neck even states that info. It was finished in nitrocellulose lacquer by luthier Dan Atkinson, and he then gave the back of the neck a relic treatment. He also put his own logo on the headstock. I actually saw a photo of that logo and thought it was okay. The previous owner of the neck decided that he didn't like Dan's logo and removed it along with some of the nitro. He had intended to put on the Fender decal but never got around to it. When we made our deal and I bought the neck from him he figured he didn't have any more use for the decal, so why not throw it in?

 

All of that being said, I don't know if I'm going to get another decal. It might look cool, but in actuality I just want to plug this bass into my Ampeg head and groove along to some Booker T & The MG's and get my Duck Dunn on!!!

 

[Wally Malone]

Nice work! I can't even think about taking on a project such as this. Once shop became an elective in school I stopped taking that class. When it was a requirement everything I started out to make ended up being something else after making a mistake. I don't even on tools to do the work. I really appreciate those with these abilities.

 

Wally

[b5pilot]

Nicklab that turned out great! I really like that Brown tort with the black. It looks so good it's inspiring me to start thinking about customizing a couple of basses I've got laying around here.

 

Again, well done!

[kenfxj]

Nick, there are guys on the internet, frequently on ebay who'll do a custom headstock decal for you. They'll even do something like your last name in the classic Fender font.

 

Or name the bass Fester and have them print that. Or to confuse the dummies put Gibson on it.

[Nicklab]

Last night I finally brought out the project P-Bass to a local jam. And damn, did it play well! I had an inkling that putting the jazz neck on this bass would be the right thing to do, and it felt perfect in my left hand. While I may have played 5 and 6 string for years and years, there's always been something daunting for me about the size of a P-Bass neck compared to a J neck. It's probably psychological, but to me there seems to be a difference.

 

 

As for the bass as a whole? It stayed in tune very well. The vintage tuners held well, and the balance of the bass was good. The action? Looking at the bridge, I thought that it might seem a little high, but it felt just right.

 

 

Some possible tweaks? I've got three things on the checklist:

 

-Adjusting the height of the uppermost pickup mounting screw. It's protruding just a little bit, and it's right where I rest my thumb.

 

-Making sure that the pickup wiring is good. The tone knob only seems to be making minute adjustments in the sound. Is that because I've got pretty well worn-in strings on the instrument? Possibly. I'm actually tempted to put a set of round-wounds on just to make sure the tone knob is functioning properly.

 

-Moving the tug-bar. Even though it's placement is vintage correct, I think I'm going to move it above the strings. Having it placed between the end of the neck and the pickup would be more functionally useful.

[butcherNburn]

The tone issue may be a bad capacitor or pot. Neither likes to be overheated while soldering. Most likely the capacitor, it can be checked out with a multimeter.

 

 

[Nicklab]

I can't believe that I never followed up on the tone issue. It turns out that the tone cap did get overheated when I did the initial wiring. I replaced the cap and now the tone controls are very responsive. And this bass is a lot of fun to play!