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Project P-Bass Build


Nicklab

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Way back when I was taking lessons with one of my bass teachers, we got to talking about what he was doing when he wasn't playing, teaching or working in a music store. And I got more and more intrigued by the fact that Bill had designed and built some of his own basses. They were pretty elaborate, all being 6 string basses with some intricate construction techniques. When I asked him for some guidance on how to get started, he said that I should probably start with something simple, like a kit build. This was back around 1993 or so.

 

Fast forward to the present, and the bug hit me again. But the inspiration was to build something that wasn't readily available. At least not without plunking down a hefty amount of cash. So I started doing some research, trying to find the parts for the bass that I wanted for myself. So what did I want?

 

-A Precision Bass with a Jazz bass neck

-Nitro finished body & neck

-A vintage style pickup

-Quality hardware

-A 4 ply vintage style tortoiseshell pickguard

 

So, how to source this with good parts without breaking the bank? Well, I found an eBay seller called Stratosphere that deals almost exclusively in parted out instruments. And there I was able to buy a Fender Classic 50's P-Bass body with a nitro finish.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/033_zpsc0d0085c.jpg

 

I had also been hoping to buy a Fender Roadworn Jazz bass neck from them, but the one I had my eye on sold out before I could get it. So, I took to searching elsewhere for a suitable replacement neck. I found it after posting an ad on Talkbass, and this Allparts Jazz bass neck that was finished by luthier Dan Atkinson arrived yesterday.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/034_zps2f40422d.jpg

 

The previous owner of the neck took the Atkinson logo off of the headstock. But he did include a Fender decal that I could put on if I chose. I've got somewhat mixed feelings on that front, since I wouldn't want someone else trying to pass off an Allparts neck as a genuine Fender neck to me.

 

At this point I have almost all of the parts. The pickup I chose is a Seymour Duncan Antiquity II precision pickup. I went to Stewart MacDonald and bought their premium P-Bass wiring kit, complete with cloth covered wire and CTS solid shaft pots (can't forget the wiring diagram!). There were some assorted bits of Fender hardware that I either had on hand or picked up. As for the bridge? I've got an old BadAss II bridge, but I also picked up a Fender vintage reissue bass bridge. I want to see which one gives me a little more room to make adjustments.

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb135/nicklabatearthlinkdotnet/GEAR/P-Bass%20Build/032_zps539941f3.jpg

 

At this point in time, I've only got a couple of parts to source. I tried buying a set of Fender tuners today, but when I opened them up they were missing the mounting screws as well as the bushings. So those need to go back and get replaced.

 

Also due to get replaced? I found a tort pickguard that was pretty reasonably priced at only $14. It had the traditional 60's style 13 mounting holes. But alas, they didn't line up well with the 10 drill holes in my P-Bass's body. So now I'm checking with Pickguard Heaven about getting a custom pickguard for this bass.

 

So does anyone else have some parts bass stories/lessons to share? I'm very much interested in hearing how other builds have gone, and what challenges presented themselves for your own builds.

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Congrats on what looks like a fun project.

Some thoughts, if I may:

 

Try the vintage threaded Fender bridge first. IMO, it's loads better than the badass in terms of adjustability. Whatever tone difference you may hear is up to you to deem useful or not.

I swapped the threaded for a badass on my P bass, liked it so much I put a threaded on my J bass also.

 

Any decent tort guard is going to be pricey, but usually look so much better than the typical printed tort examples. Just thinking here, but have you considered ano gold? It'd look good with the black, wear nicely with the nitro, be priced about the same as decent tort, and be not real common.

 

The Allparts neck is licensed by Fender, is it not? I see no harm in putting the Fender label on, and informing future potential buyers (if any) as to its actual origin. Besides, it has the Allparts brand on the heel, I assume...

 

The holes are all pre-drilled most likely, but remember to use a bit of bar soap on each screw before screwing them tight. Helps to lube the screw and the wood, helps prevent broken screws.

 

Have fun with it, keep us posted...

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the info, Wraub!

 

I was definitely planning on trying the vintage Fender bridge first. And it's purely based on how thick the base plate is on the vintage Fender bridge compared with the base of the Badass bridge. I get the feeling that it's possible to set the action considerably lower with the Fender bridge, so I was going to try that first.

 

Regarding the pickguard? I've always like the gold anodized pickguards. But for me, I only like that look with certain body finishes. On white instruments I think a gold anodized pg looks amazing! But on a black body? I'd really rather have a tort guard. For me, that's just a classic look.

 

I'll definitely try the soap on the screws. I hadn't thought about that.

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Good luck on the build! It looks like it's going to be a pretty sharp looking bass when you're finished. Of course we will need some pics of the finished product! :)

 

I've put together some parts basses before in the past. Like a pair of Gibson Grabbers that the bodies and necks were factory seconds from the Gibson factory back when they were still in Kalamazoo. One of those basses of which I inlayed a strip of mahogany down the center of the top. Looked really cool. More recently was my Jay Turser 5 string that I gutted and added a EMG p/j set with a BTC control and then turned into a fretless. In between those I've modded a few basses, but nothing too drastic.

 

In the past I used to get a lot of used parts from music stores for cheap. That was a while pack and now with Ebay you might not find as much there.

 

I have currently a Squier affinity project p-bass I bought at a yard sale for $60 sitting in the closet. I'll get around to it one of these days.

Lydian mode? The only mode I know has the words "pie ala" in front of it.

http://www.myspace.com/theeldoradosband

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don't forget to attach the grounding wire. :)

 

...and thanks for that Pickguard Heaven link! I have a couple of electric guitars that I need to talk to them about.

 

Thankfully the ground wire was part of the wiring harness that I got from Stew-Mac. Still, once I get the whole bass assembled, I'm going to take things a step further: paying for a setup and a shielding job. I'm going to opt for the shielding paint instead of the foil. And I'm also going to have them put shielding tape on the underside of the pickguard.

 

Still, it could be a good 3 weeks until I get the bass completed. That appears to be the lead time for the custom pickguard. At least from Pickguard Heaven. But they seem to have some of the best looking tort pickguards going.

 

Today's status update? Well, it turns out that the Fender vintage tuners I want to use do not come with screws or bushings. So I had to plunk down just a little bit more on parts to get those.

 

I also put the neck on the body today. My oh my, is it a snug fit! But I'm also encouraged by just how light the instrument is at this point in time. That's a major positive for me as this project moves forward.

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The holes are all pre-drilled most likely, but remember to use a bit of bar soap on each screw before screwing them tight. Helps to lube the screw and the wood, helps prevent broken screws.

Minor point - not to be construed as criticism: Use beeswax, paraffin, or an old candle instead. The potassium / sodium chloride (salts) used to make soap will attract moisture and cause metal in direct contact to corrode. No big deal if you're fixing up an old chair; but I think it matters for an instrument that might be a cherished possession in 20+ years or so . . .

TimberWolf
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The holes are all pre-drilled most likely, but remember to use a bit of bar soap on each screw before screwing them tight. Helps to lube the screw and the wood, helps prevent broken screws.

Minor point - not to be construed as criticism: Use beeswax, paraffin, or an old candle instead. The potassium / sodium chloride (salts) used to make soap will attract moisture and cause metal in direct contact to corrode. No big deal if you're fixing up an old chair; but I think it matters for an instrument that might be a cherished possession in 20+ years or so . . .

 

DOH! And I used some Dawn to lubricate the neck attachment screws. Well, I'll be off to get some beeswax or similar material for the other screws.

 

On the pickguard front? When I picked up the bushings for my tuners, I happened across a 50's style gold anodized pickguard. Lo and behold, the holes all lined up. So that seems to be the pattern that I'll need to order for my custom tort guard. Which brings up this debate: which tort looks better with a black body? Brown tort or red tort?

 

 

BLACK WITH BROWN TORT

 

http://assets.fender.com/frl/26868089647b7ac7b0720a3254e74851/generated/86ceb3c861ac3d7b0737b2ccde488ca3.png

 

 

BLACK WITH RED TORT

 

http://www.tfoa.eu/user_files/images/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968%20Black%20%2001.jpg

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Either would be good but I maybe favor the brown a bit more.

 

Are you planning to go the ashtray route with this new bass?

I'm looking at the above jazz bass and those covers look pretty sharp on a black bass. Of course if you are going the BA2 route a bridge cover won't fit but a pickup cover will still look cool.

That's what I did with my black MIM jazz I have.

 

I may have to see about a tort guard for that MIM jazz of mine 'cause those jazz basses look pretty cool.

Lydian mode? The only mode I know has the words "pie ala" in front of it.

http://www.myspace.com/theeldoradosband

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I've always liked the way that pickup covers look on an instrument. But I've always had a tendency to play right above the pickup on a P-bass, and right above the neck pickup of a Jazz. And with that tendency to play over the pickups most of the time, I find that the pickup covers invariably get in the way. How in the hell does Will Lee do it?

 

Now on a P-Bass, I really like the IDEA of the bridge cover if it has the string mutes built in. It's a classic sound. But I like to be able to change things up pretty quickly when it comes to muting, too. So much so that I generally carry a piece of foam in my gig bags so that I can pop it in at the bridge if I feel the need. The bridge cover requires a screwdriver, which is far too maintenance intensive for my tastes.

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Firstly: Nick, apologies for the soap thing. I had no idea. I hope other things I have built will be ok, along with your neck screws...

 

Secondly, on the pickguard, I prefer the brown. The red looks more appropriate for the nitro timeframe, but there's still some variance, apparently.

 

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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Firstly: Nick, apologies for the soap thing. I had no idea. I hope other things I have built will be ok, along with your neck screws...
The most it will likely do to a heavy neck or strap button screw is discolor the metal finish. The concern is for the fine guard, cover, and string tree screws - they have a thinner plating layer that will rust, flake, and even bind or break a screw on extraction.
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Silly question: where can one find either bee's wax or paraffin? I tried my local Home Depot and came up with nothing. When I asked an associate, he recommended dipping the hardware in candle wax.... in order to "save some money". That wasn't the most reassuring answer.

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Check a "Craft Supplies" type store like Micheal's or A.C.Moore - but for the intended purpose the candle wax will work just fine. Just use tweezers to dip the tip of the screw threads into the molten puddle at the wick - you don't need a heavy layer of wax. You can even just twist the screws into an old piece of candle. All we want wax for is a light lubricating film that doesn't stain the wood or react with any metal.
TimberWolf
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I just replaced the black pick guard on my Lull M4V with a red tort (everybody look surprised). I bought from Pickguard Heaven and thought they were great to deal with. No worries there.

 

I've considered an assembly project like this, and thought of a carvin kit, but haven't taken the plunge yet - maybe someday.

 

Best of luck!!

www.stoneflyrocks.com

Acoustic Color

 

Be practical as well as generous in your ideals. Keep your eyes on the stars and keep your feet on the ground. - Theodore Roosevelt

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I just replaced the black pick guard on my Lull M4V with a red tort (everybody look surprised). I bought from Pickguard Heaven and thought they were great to deal with. No worries there.

 

I've considered an assembly project like this, and thought of a carvin kit, but haven't taken the plunge yet - maybe someday.

 

Best of luck!!

 

Thanks, Tom!

 

I actually emailed Pickguard Heaven with a general inquiry, but I haven't heard back from them. Can you PM me the contact info you used?

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Alright, I screwed up on the soap thing, but I still think you should just throw an ano gold guard on that thing and call it done. It'd look like a 59...

 

I have an ano gold guard on my P, even though it's not technically "correct", and it gets questions/comments often, for some reason.

Plus, if you're into the whole "actual player wear" school of relic-ing, it looks kinda cool after a bit imo.

 

If you disagree with me on this (I'd understand since that whole soap thing,) I say brown tort. Classier and less candy clown/slatternly, imho.

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm almost right there with you, Wraub. When I brought the neck and body to my fave MI shop last weekend, I very nearly bought the gold anodized pickguard they had in stock. It fit the neck pocket and pickup rout perfectly, and at $35 the price was definitely right.

 

But in this case I am choosing to be particular because I want what I want. If it were within my budget I would plunk down the cash on an older AVRI 62 P-bass in black (on which the tort guard was stock), and get a Roadworn Jazz to part out for the neck. The route I've chosen to go is a little more DIY and definitely more economical. I'm into this instrument for $600 and change. So if I splurge on the pickguard a little bit, I don't feel like I'm breaking the bank.

 

And don't worry about the soap thing, seriously!

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All good, man.

 

Just saying, though, the ano guard offers some actual benefits:

 

Not going to break around the output jack;

The grounding is built in ;) ;

It's gold! (colored!)

readily available in the hole count/placement you need with that body!; p.s. (try finding one in 13 hole... Took me a bit)

Actual player wear guaranteed! (note: not a guarantee.)

 

Seriously, some people can't abide the surface texture of the aluminum, but it didn't bother me when I put it on there,

And now that I've worn it all off where my fingers touch while playing, it's as smooth as any other pickguard.

 

Try it! If you don't like it, you could probably flip it pretty easily.

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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From a purely aesthetic standpoint, I love the way the gold pickguards look on a white body. Those 57 American Vintage P-Bass's in mary kay white with the gold guards are awesome! I came so close to getting one, too, back around 2001 or so. But I opted for an AVRI 75 Jazz instead, and looking back I kind of regret not going for that P-Bass at the time.

 

But for black? I really do like the way tort looks a whole lot better.

 

http://a3.images.reverb.com/image/upload/a_exif,c_limit,q_85,w_400/v1360301456/ilzriobptwuaf6cqqqsp.jpg

 

 

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Well, I have ano gold on natural ash, so, screw the rules, baby!

 

:D

Acquired taste, maybe, but check it:

 

http://a4.images.reverb.com/image/upload/a_exif,c_limit,h_588,q_85,w_588/v1372756688/nzul6i3lghuvjwhlsnpm.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x90/bassflyer/Ricks%20Bass%20Pics/7737-1.jpg

http://www.themusiczoo.com/images/3-12-11/Fender_Custom_Shop_59_P_Bass_Relic_Black_R55995_1.jpg

 

 

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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