Rhino Madness Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The retailer where I used to get my soldering supplies now only carries lead-free solder. I believe new laws require this in Europe but not in the US at this point. 1. Can lead-free and rosin core 63/37 lead solder be mixed on a project? 2. If not, should we stock up on lead solder just in case it becomes unavailable in the near future? 3. What is your favorite supplier of soldering supplies? 4. For guitar work, what is your favorite iron tip style and size? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesape Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Dunno, but will watch this thread with interest. The pups I switched out were crimped, not soldered, and 18 years later, they still work fine. Never a DUH! moment! Well, almost never. OK, OK! Sometimes never! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Geoff Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I buy whatever's in the hobby shop and do quite a lot of soldering - I haven't had any problems. For fine work I'll use a 25W. G. "When the power of love overcomes the love of power the World will know Peace": Jimi Hendrix http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=738517&content=music The Geoff - blame Caevan!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillWelcome Home Studios Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I suggest a soldering station for anyone doing enough soldering to justify the cost. The ability to set your temperature is pretty handy. Plus it never hurts to have a place to put down a hot iron that will secury hold it, and to have a sponge to clean the tip. And the tips screw off for easy replacement, so that you can use the right tip for the job. For a guy doing one or two soldering projects a year this is overkill.... but hard wire your first patch bay or something like that, and suddenly the expense is worth the time savings and control and convenience. "I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot." Steve Martin Show business: we're all here because we're not all there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoes Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I'm not sure about this. It's the first I've heard of a switch to lead free solder here and I'm sure our shop hasn't encountered it given they but spools by the case. It would certainly be fine to use different materials without mixing them on individual contacts understanding they (both lead and non-lead) carry the same conductive properties. It's likely not a good idea to mix them on the same contact where you may find the properties of each metal do not perfectly blend into a common compound. They may also have different melting points making one of the types form a cold joint. That would be the complication of mixing. I use a 25w Weller with Kester rosin core lead for everything. The iron runs hot and solder melts quickly so when required I use heat sinks (just gator clips) if I'm working with anything heat sensitive. When one of the hardware techs' station died I snagged the base for the holder and sponge tray but I rarely get into long projects where I use it. Simple things like solder suckers or a spool of solder wick are terrific for fix & mod work. I also found I used the vacuum based project holder (a thing with two hinged gator arms)is like a third hand even when you can't or don't want to completely remove an assembly from its' host. When I repaired my foot controller jack on the TSL I pulled the screws and headers but left the hardwired leads in tact using the gator thing to hold it in a flipped position so I could get at the pads. It otherwise wanted to flop over so I couldn't work on it. It doesn't take much money to be comfortable for occasional project and fit-it work. Let's hear what the two solder types looks like when mixed. I wonder if you can readily see where the two cool as different materials or if in fact the completely mix. I still think guitars are like shoes, but louder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paully Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The ability to set your temperature is pretty handy. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Good point. The new formulations require a hotter tip than you're used to. I tried that stuff and hate it. Beads instead of flows, and an ugly, ugly finished look. Personally, I've already stocked up with the 60/40 stuff.. just in case. Best, Paul WUDAYAKNOW.. For the first time in my life, I'm wrong again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroslav Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 1. Can lead-free and rosin core 63/37 lead solder be mixed on a project? I don't see why not. It's solder...and it will still bind everything and make the electronic connections. I've used lead-free when doing some plumbing repairs...but I still have a big roll of fine-wire 60/40 rosin core that I use on my audio electronics at this time. miroslav - miroslavmusic.com "Just because it happened to you, it doesn't mean it's important." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miroslav Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The new formulations require a hotter tip than you're used to. I tried that stuff and hate it. Beads instead of flows, and an ugly, ugly finished look. I guess that's why the lead-free flows nice for plumbing work...'cuz there is plenty of heat from a butane torch. Ehh...maybe I better go to Radio Shack and pick up a few rolls of 60/40 rosin core. miroslav - miroslavmusic.com "Just because it happened to you, it doesn't mean it's important." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumblyfingers Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 In my years as a motorcycle mechanic doing some sort of electrical repair and soldering everyday of my life for 25 years or so, I found the 25W soldering irons to really cool down in the slightest breeze. They would be unuseable. We would have to use those bulky pistol grip one's....heavy, did not last long, broke easily Then years ago I bought a butane soldering torch kit and I absolutely love it. It comes with different tips, a sponge, a wind deflector thingy and the case converts to a "stand". I have never needed the wind deflector even in a stout breeze. The heat shrink heating tip is handy but truth be told changing tips while hot is not feasible. I just used to use it for soldering. The freedom of never having to need A/C is awesome and the freedom of being able to orient it any which way with no power wire getting in the way is unbelievably convenient. Running out of Butane sucks!!! LOL.It goes a long time on a fill though. They are not expensive..I paid around $100 and change. A great tool, an awesome gift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulrock Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I have one of those butane soldering irons on my tool cart at work. They are great when I need to make a quick repair out on the floor. Sometimes there just isn't an outlet available in a convienent place. They have switched to lead free solder for production use, but I still have a spool of the old stuff that I use. I'm pretty sure the lead free has a higher melting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdrs Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The ability to set your temperature is pretty handy. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Good point. The new formulations require a hotter tip than you're used to. I tried that stuff and hate it. Beads instead of flows, and an ugly, ugly finished look. Personally, I've already stocked up with the 60/40 stuff.. just in case. Best, Paul I've had the same experience, Paul. The "new stuff" takes forever to melt with my old solder iron. And, it didn't flow well enough to make the kind of connection I'm use to. And, no way would I mix the new with the old, after having some experience with the new stuff. By the time the new stuff melts, you'll have burned the hell out of the old stuff!! Don "There once was a note, Pure and Easy. Playing so free, like a breath rippling by." http://www.soundclick.com/bands/pagemusic.cfm?bandID=574296 http://www.myspace.com/imdrs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paully Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Edited by Paully WUDAYAKNOW.. For the first time in my life, I'm wrong again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Madness Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Thanks for all the replies! I can see the issue of the different melting points, as are the different reaction styles (beading vs. flowing). I will try and find some of the old-style lead solder then. Do you guys easily find it locally at your hardware store or do you have a favorite online outlet? As far as 60/40 and 63/37, anything specific I should be aware of here? 63/37 has always been easier for me to locate so far and the lower and more stable melting point seems to be a plus. I typically use a small flat tip on the iron. Is there anything else that would be better (small or medium conical, medium flat, etc.)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Red 67 Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 On top of the station idea,... I use tinning plumbers flux to clean and cover the tip with. Stuff is great. Big Red's Ride Blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Ellwood Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1132.html http://www.thestringnetwork.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zuben Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Then years ago I bought a butane soldering torch kit.. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Oh ya ? Well my guns'll take on your torch anytime!! 3:00 behind the gym. Bring it. :D .BTW, these are the only guns I allow in the house . http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/goosefat/S-guns.jpg Best, Paul Great antiques! No matter what solder you end up using, try to scrape or sand the wires or areas you are trying to solder. You will ge a much better flow and less chance of a cold solder joint. A cold solder joint is easy to spot as it looks like a bunch of clumped up solder. It is also a bad connection and very likey to break loose with any movement, Another thing. NEVER use acid core solder on electronics. Peace http://www.spotcheckbilly.com http://www.littlefeat.net http://www.bonnieraitt.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Madness Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Thanks for all the advice and links, too. Based on previous advice from here and/or Phil's Project Studio forum, I bought this 40W Weller soldering station last year. It sure beats the cheapo underpowered pencil I had before that. I don't have much soldering experience aside from fixing cables here and there and swapping components now and then. I don't really know yet what temperature would be best for the job as I am self-taught and haven't seen much info about it online. However, I should get more practical hands-on knowledge soon as I just ordered a few BYOC pedals. I will also get the 3rd-hand-type holding device; there is only so much you can do with masking tape to hold down the wires while you solder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdrs Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I like that soldering station. I need a soldering assistant, but usually just get my son if I need a third hand!! When he goes to college, I'll just need to grow a third hand....... Don "There once was a note, Pure and Easy. Playing so free, like a breath rippling by." http://www.soundclick.com/bands/pagemusic.cfm?bandID=574296 http://www.myspace.com/imdrs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantasticsound Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I found a neat video with some basic information and do's and don'ts. Seems like a great reference. Oops! I thought I'd copied the link but I guess I hadn't. ) It's easiest to find me on Facebook. Neil Bergman Soundclick fntstcsnd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Red 67 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 The wire glue looks interesting. http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H4076.html Big Red's Ride Blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillWelcome Home Studios Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 a drill and a block of wood makes a great way to 'hold' connectors. I used a piece of rubber flooring, drilled holes for XLRs, quarter inch cables, etc. Stick the connector into the hole, and it is well anchored for soldering. Bill "I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot." Steve Martin Show business: we're all here because we're not all there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantasticsound Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Did you undersize the holes for grip, Bill? It's easiest to find me on Facebook. Neil Bergman Soundclick fntstcsnd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Madness Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Interesting tips and tricks: keep them coming! I found a neat video with some basic information and do's and don'ts. Seems like a great reference. How to solder correctly Ooops! Wrong link Neil! Please post it again as I'd watch it! And Red, I'm not too sure about wire glue: it would appear to be a permanent deal, not easy to fix/repair or swap components down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantasticsound Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Corrected, Rhino. Sorry for the error... It's easiest to find me on Facebook. Neil Bergman Soundclick fntstcsnd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Madness Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks Neil! I'll go watch that now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Red 67 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Interesting tips and tricks: keep them coming! I found a neat video with some basic information and do's and don'ts. Seems like a great reference. How to solder correctly Ooops! Wrong link Neil! Please post it again as I'd watch it! And Red, I'm not too sure about wire glue: it would appear to be a permanent deal, not easy to fix/repair or swap components down the road. hehe I didn't think of that! Big Red's Ride Blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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