Feel free to ask Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by James-Italy:

Myles,

In the Univalve- when I run an EL84 with the YellowJacket, do I have to run it "ONLY" in LoV like the 6V6's?

 

Will the Mazda 6V6 I just got blow if I run them in HiV? (don't want to risk it without checking with you, but if they will hold up to 465+ plate volts you said... maybe HiV will render a different sound)

 

Thanks!

EL84's in low voltage only.

 

High voltage in a UV is 450 or more, and will trash EL84s and 6V6s in short order.

 

465 plate volts in class A/B at 50% ID is MUCH different than 465 plate volts single ended class A, where the tube is idling at 100%.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Mike Gug:

Myles,

 

I'm new to the forum (love it so far), and I haven't read much of your stuff, but from what I've seen, you look like a good candidate to ask this question.

 

I'm sold on the idea of tubes sounding REALLY good, but for someone who hasn't found a "sound", plays in a church band which plays a good range of songs/sounds and likes to screw around with different band covers (mostly rock), would you suggest a modeling amp (1 x 12 please) or a tube amp with good pedals? Under $900?

 

Thanks!

Mike,

 

You have a LOT of choices here, and it will boil down to the features you want and need.

 

Modeling amps have a lot of cool aspects. I have a bit on this in my Tube Primer, but to copy and paste a bit of that here .........

 

Modeling amps?

 

In the past, I have written a lot on solid state amps versus tube amps, and modeling amps versus the amp originals they are modeling. Modeling amps have some strong points such as a lot of sounds for the dollar or in a given space, or for recording. Some think in a live venue, modeling amps can have limitations. To my way of thinking, this live aspect is sort of a yes and no to me, just as with any amp, tube, SS, or modeling amp. I see many folks with 50 watt amps in small clubs, where the soul of the amp is never tapped. Put an amp like a Line 6 Vetta, Fender Cyber Deluxe or Cyber Twin, or Vox modeling amp out there, and you may be surprised. These amps may be just the ticket in any size venue, and in small venues where maximum overdrive is sought at rational levels, may be a super option. Recently on a five day cruise with my family, there was one of the entertainers who covered just about every music style that was ever done, solo. He had a small rack with a Panasonic laptop. This held his song list, and was on a music stand close at hand. It had a sound card of some sort, and internal drum machine, sequencer, and midi outs to a small synth rack. This was all fed into a stereo SS rig, used for PA speakers, and just there for clean sound. His Guitar amp was a Line 6 Vetta. He was a hit on the ship, and had more folks in one bar area, than most of the conventional bands on the ship. He was a fun act to see. His rig was light, portable, and very versatile. In some cases, a modeling amp may be the ONLY proper choice. Reflecting back on what I wrote on that cruise incident when I first produced this document, I have had additional thoughts brought on by questions from many folks. This was my response to one forum post on the subject which I wrote:

 

There are some places where tube amps are totally unacceptable. Recently I was on a ocean cruise with my kids. The crew on these ships work seven days a week for at least a six month tour. Same for the entertainers. The ship gets back on a Friday morning, and leaves late that afternoon. No time to take an amp to a tech as one part of the situation.

 

Add to this, the players may be playing for the show in the big showroom one night, rock in a club the next, and jazz the next night. The amps are moved all over the place, and having an amp that does a number of things rather than excel at one thing, is really a prime consideration.

 

In this case, something like a Vetta, or even the Spyder, would be a killer amp to have. A Super Reverb, Mesa, or Marshall would be about the worst thing one could have.

 

It boils down to the right tool for the job.

 

I heard a few modeling amps on the cruise, and frankly, they were killer. The worst amp I heard was a tweed Fender Bass Breaker, whose tubes were shot, bias was off, and had at least one noisy and microphonic tube in the first gain stage. I was so bad I had to leave that rock lounge called something like China Town on Carnival to Ensenada (over Christmas) if anybody else that reads this was there.

 

Thank the tone gods for a fellow with a smaller Marshall Valvestate and another fellow in a Reggae band with a Line 6 Axis. They sounded great, and the guests loved them.

 

I personally prefer the PROPER wattage tube amp as first choice, but I will take the modeling amp every time over the wrong tube amp. Why? Modeling amps allow a degree of touch dynamics and tonal ranges to be captured at most any level. You have all sorts of controls for this ability. A Fender Tweed Bassman in a small venue will never be able to be cranked to its level of tone potential for some music styles. A Line 6 Vetta may pull off the tweed sound of the virtual Bassman in a much more convincing and pleasing manner, at least to my tastes.

 

I think to end this, all I can suggest is, listen to amps, and play them. See how they react to your touch. If this is not a part of your music and style, such as many folks that start the song at 110db and end it at 100db, then most any amp will work pretty well. As you develop an ear for different tone aspects, and fingers and touch that can give you at least two more playing dimensions, then you will move to the next step of being a better player, and also have a more heightened ability as a listener.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by paranoid:

I proudly own a '72 PTP Marshall superbass which I use as a guitar amp. I fell the need to inprove the 3 preamp tubes because I think that head "needs" high-quality tubes.

I want to keep the typical Marshall sound. What do you suggest me mainly for v1 and v2?

I want to spend not more than 60-70 $.

Thanks for your help.

paranoid...........

 

That is all answered on my website and in version 1.31 of the Tube Primer on my website.

[Mike Gug]

Excellent point about the volume levels. Something I hadn't thought of. Thank you!

[BBach]

Myles, How is it that a magnetic pickup can capture the tonality (wood resonance,hollowness or

solidness etc.)of a guitar? I thought the way a

pickup worked was that the metal string creates

a disturbance in the magnetic field which is then

transduced. It would seem as if you would need a

microphone to translate the character of the

instrument. I know this is not the case and it

occurs to me that after all the years that I've

been playing electric guitar, I still do not

understand the fundementals of how it works.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by BBach:

Myles, How is it that a magnetic pickup can capture the tonality (wood resonance,hollowness or

solidness etc.)of a guitar? I thought the way a

pickup worked was that the metal string creates

a disturbance in the magnetic field which is then

transduced. It would seem as if you would need a

microphone to translate the character of the

instrument. I know this is not the case and it

occurs to me that after all the years that I've

been playing electric guitar, I still do not

understand the fundementals of how it works.

BBach ........

 

There have been volumes written on this subject, but a few points are ............

 

The way the string vibrates is very much influenced by the woods and construction of the guitar.

 

Put a Gibson Humbucker in a Telecaster in the neck position, with it's alder or ash body, maple (bright) neck, and bolted construction, and it will sound very different than the same pickup in the mahogony Les Paul with it's set neck, more mass and mahogony neck.

 

This is also why two of the same guitars of differing overall weights will sound and play differently.

 

Paul Reed Smith proved that pickups have less to do with a guitars sound then the guitar materials and construction.

 

Rick Turner, is a master on this subject, perhaps the person I hold in the highest regard of anybody on this subject.

[BBach]

Thanks Myles

[Blue Note]

Hello Myles,

 

It's been a while since I have had a question worthy of your expertise but I have been enjoying reading yours and others posts, now for the question. Is a silver face Champ dependable enough to play a 3 hour show three nights a week. The place where we are the house band for a music theatre dinner show type deal has such a good monitor system that I can hear myself fine plus cut down on stage volume by using the Champ. I put a new WeberVST speaker in it about a month ago and really like the sound I'm getting going through a Boss GT-6 then to the Champ but I have been a little concerned about the dependability of the amp plus how long can I expect the single 6V6 to last in a class "A" type circuit which I think is the class a Champ is in.

 

Thank You,

 

Blue Note

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Hello Myles,

 

It's been a while since I have had a question worthy of your expertise but I have been enjoying reading yours and others posts, now for the question. Is a silver face Champ dependable enough to play a 3 hour show three nights a week. The place where we are the house band for a music theatre dinner show type deal has such a good monitor system that I can hear myself fine plus cut down on stage volume by using the Champ. I put a new WeberVST speaker in it about a month ago and really like the sound I'm getting going through a Boss GT-6 then to the Champ but I have been a little concerned about the dependability of the amp plus how long can I expect the single 6V6 to last in a class "A" type circuit which I think is the class a Champ is in.

 

Thank You,

 

Blue Note

Blue Note..........

 

It's hard to say. What I do on these amps is look at the idle current of a new tube before it is installed using test equipment, and record the number. Then I look at it every few weeks, and when the current has dropped about 20%, I replace the tube.

 

These amps are not nearly as hard on tubes as EL-84 based amps. The 6V6 amps run generally withing design specs of the tube, while most EL-84 based amps run plate voltages, screen currents, and dissapation far beyond design limits. I have had some AC-30 amps get less than 30 hours out of a set of tubes. 300 hours on an AC-30 is shear luck. I have gotten 3000 hours and more out of an A/B 6V6 amps (deluxe). Your champ should go at least 500+ hours if the tube was a spec tube, and not some tube far outside the range (as are sold by many vendors that do not test .... even though some insist they do).

[Mitch Harris]

Myles,

I have acquired(over 30 years) perhaps as many as 200-300 preamp tubes. While most have been obtained thru reputable sources, I have no idea as to their gain, transconductance, noise, etc.

I was thinking of buying a Tube Characterizer from Vacuum Tube Valley(for$699)and noticed that they mentioned you, as well as many others use this unit.

 

I guess my question is...What would this unit NOT do that is important in determining the characteristics of a preamp tube? (I know it won't do a curve trace) Without spending several thousand dollars, is this unit the closest I can get to testing my own preamp tubes?

 

Thanks for your insight. Have a great holiday!

 

Mitch

[Djinn1973]

I went in to a local music store today to pick up a guitar, and I noticed a used Crate Blue Voodoo 2x12 combo. I was in a bit of a rush, and I asked one of the guys that worked there to demo it for me.

I thought it sounded pretty good; it does the scooped mids thing really well, and though its obvious that its seen some action its still in good shape. Do you think that $300-$375 is too much for an amp like this?

If I did buy this amp,(or any used tube amp for that matter) what kinds of things should I have done to it to increase its usefulness and reliability?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Mitch Harris:

Myles,

I have acquired(over 30 years) perhaps as many as 200-300 preamp tubes. While most have been obtained thru reputable sources, I have no idea as to their gain, transconductance, noise, etc.

I was thinking of buying a Tube Characterizer from Vacuum Tube Valley(for$699)and noticed that they mentioned you, as well as many others use this unit.

 

I guess my question is...What would this unit NOT do that is important in determining the characteristics of a preamp tube? (I know it won't do a curve trace) Without spending several thousand dollars, is this unit the closest I can get to testing my own preamp tubes?

 

Thanks for your insight. Have a great holiday!

 

Mitch

Mitch,

 

The VTV unit is the best unit out there that is a single unit that is reliable and easily moved around. The "gain" scale is not actual gain, but sort of an interpolation of other factors, but works great as a comparison. It's noise checking ability exceeds other units, and is very easy to use.

 

When I spec a tube for my blueprinting clients, many times I will use the VTV tester, especially out in the field. When I am doing tube testing for the various tube factories, I need to know aspects such as plate resistance, gain, current output, Transconductance, rise time, and a bit more. To do these things you need a lot of equipment, a lot of room, and you cannot move this stuff around easily to say the least.

 

The VTV tester is sort of becomming a standard for a number of folks so we can all use the same scale and numbers. It is much nicer than the George Kaye small signal tube tester, that has been around a while.

 

The VTV unit is VERY well built, has power supply regulation that is very precise, and an amazing unit.

 

I strongly recommend the VTV unit over any of the "old" TV-7, Hickock, and B&G types out there, most WAY out of calibration.

 

The unit will pay for itself in short order if you purchase tubes from unknown or "iffy" sources, even new tubes. Many tube vendors do not test preamp tubes, regardless of what they may say in their adverts. Pop one into a VTV tester and you will see what I mean. If they will not accept the tube back for replacement after you test it, (or test tubes for friends and bandmates), then you have one more tube vendor to cross off your list and pass the word on to others in regard to their products.

 

For high end audio folks, this tester is almost a must have item. So many of the NOS tubes today are pulls are the last of the bottom of the barrel, and it is showing more and more every month.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Djinn1973:

I went in to a local music store today to pick up a guitar, and I noticed a used Crate Blue Voodoo 2x12 combo. I was in a bit of a rush, and I asked one of the guys that worked there to demo it for me.

I thought it sounded pretty good; it does the scooped mids thing really well, and though its obvious that its seen some action its still in good shape. Do you think that $300-$375 is too much for an amp like this?

If I did buy this amp,(or any used tube amp for that matter) what kinds of things should I have done to it to increase its usefulness and reliability?

Djinn1973 .............

 

That is a hard question(s).

 

I am not up on prices, they change all the time, and ebay may be a good source of info.

 

To increase reliability, have the amp checked out to make sure the transformers are good, caps are good, and then retube and reset the bias properly. Clean and lube all the pots, and give the amp a good once over.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Hey, Myles! Hope you're doin' fine.

 

I came across an old tube combo in a "junk", er, I mean, an antique shop, that bears the name "Guldan" and states the place of manufacture to have been in Columbus, Ohio. It looks to me to be a '40s vintage, maybe early '50s, and has a mix of early and later tubes (a 6SN7[?], a 6V6GC, a 5Y3, and others) and appears on casual inspection to be of superior overall quality for its times. I have not gotten inside it, nor even tried it out with a guitar yet, though I can tell you that nothing obviously bad happens when it is plugged in and the tone-knob is clicked to "On", and that the pilot and filaments light up and surprisingly little hum or noise comes through the little 6" or 8" speaker. I will post here, and elsewhere, of my further findings with this little old specimen...

 

It looks more "Gibsony" than "Fendery", has the chassis in the bottom of the cab, and has that suitcase/radio look to it. The round grille-cloth is concave, and, with "Guldan" printed sharply on it with perspective fauxe bas relief, looks like it was made that way, as opposed to having been stretched and pushed inward over the years.

 

Have you ever heard of Guldan? How about your employer, Aspen? Tedster likes their mustard, but doesn't know about their old line of tube amps... -k

[sykrash]

dear myles,

 

I currently play a marshall Jcm900 50 watt with a 1960a cabinet.

 

The cabinet comes with two mono ohm settings, 4 and 16.

 

On the back of the jcm 900 the switch has either the option for 8 ohms or 16 ohms with a 4 in a parenthesis

 

What exactly does the "16(4)" mean on the back of the amp?

Could I actually use the 4 ohm jack on the back of my cabinet with the amp set at 16(4) ohms?

 

if so, what would be the difference?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by CaevanO'Shite:

Hey, Myles! Hope you're doin' fine.

 

I came across an old tube combo in a "junk", er, I mean, an antique shop, that bears the name "Guldan" and states the place of manufacture to have been in Columbus, Ohio. It looks to me to be a '40s vintage, maybe early '50s, and has a mix of early and later tubes (a 6SN7[?], a 6V6GC, a 5Y3, and others) and appears on casual inspection to be of superior overall quality for its times. I have not gotten inside it, nor even tried it out with a guitar yet, though I can tell you that nothing obviously bad happens when it is plugged in and the tone-knob is clicked to "On", and that the pilot and filaments light up and surprisingly little hum or noise comes through the little 6" or 8" speaker. I will post here, and elsewhere, of my further findings with this little old specimen...

 

It looks more "Gibsony" than "Fendery", has the chassis in the bottom of the cab, and has that suitcase/radio look to it. The round grille-cloth is concave, and, with "Guldan" printed sharply on it with perspective fauxe bas relief, looks like it was made that way, as opposed to having been stretched and pushed inward over the years.

 

Have you ever heard of Guldan? How about your employer, Aspen? Tedster likes their mustard, but doesn't know about their old line of tube amps... -k

This one is an amp I do not know. Aspen probably does, or maybe Jimmy (who has worked on most any amp). You write jimmy direct at lab@groovetubes.com

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by sykrash:

dear myles,

 

I currently play a marshall Jcm900 50 watt with a 1960a cabinet.

 

The cabinet comes with two mono ohm settings, 4 and 16.

 

On the back of the jcm 900 the switch has either the option for 8 ohms or 16 ohms with a 4 in a parenthesis

 

What exactly does the "16(4)" mean on the back of the amp?

Could I actually use the 4 ohm jack on the back of my cabinet with the amp set at 16(4) ohms?

 

if so, what would be the difference?

sykrash ...........

 

Teh impedance MUST match or damage to the amp may result.

 

If you have the cab set to 16 ohms, set the amp to 16 ohms.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Originally posted by myles111:

"This one is an amp I do not know. Aspen probably does, or maybe Jimmy (who has worked on most any amp). You can write Jimmy direct at... "

Thanks, Myles! I just fired an e-mail to him.

 

I'll keep you posted as I find anything, and I think that I'll wind up buying it, and refurbishing it. I'll send you pics and more details as I get'em! -k

[TwelfthRootOfTwo]

Dear Myles,

 

I was wondering if you could give me some advice on what tubes to use when retubbing my amp. I play many styles, Classic Rock/Blues/Fusion/Jam Band stuff mostly. The amp I am using is a Hughes & Kettner Triamp MKII, through a 4x12 with V30s, though I've been thinking of trying out an Xpattern with some green backs I have laying around. The amp runs on 4 EL34's and 9 12ax7's, currently loaded with Ruby's. 3 dual channel amps, basically I like channel 1a very clean, 1b with some bite, 2a remindes me of a JMC800, 2b great classic rock crunch (I love claptons tone with cream), and 3a and 3b with smooth yet high gain. Any recommondations for this tube novice? I've been playing about 13 years but have never before really owned a good tube amp that I ever wanted to change anything with. I usually play a Les Paul or my Strat. Thanks.

[Djinn1973]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by Djinn1973:

I went in to a local music store today to pick up a guitar, and I noticed a used Crate Blue Voodoo 2x12 combo. I was in a bit of a rush, and I asked one of the guys that worked there to demo it for me.

I thought it sounded pretty good; it does the scooped mids thing really well, and though its obvious that its seen some action its still in good shape. Do you think that $300-$375 is too much for an amp like this?

If I did buy this amp,(or any used tube amp for that matter) what kinds of things should I have done to it to increase its usefulness and reliability?

Djinn1973 .............

 

That is a hard question(s).

 

I am not up on prices, they change all the time, and ebay may be a good source of info.

 

To increase reliability, have the amp checked out to make sure the transformers are good, caps are good, and then retube and reset the bias properly. Clean and lube all the pots, and give the amp a good once over.

I went back, and after hearing it with my own guitars I decided against buying the Voodoo.

 

On a side note, before I left the store I picked up a 12AT7 EV. I used it to replace the (Fender special design) 12AX7A in my hybrid combo. When I fired up the amp I was shocked; the amp was quiet, responsive, and best of all it sounded fantastic. Every one that has heard me through this amp (after I put the 12AT7 in) has made some positive comment about my tone.

With out having read your tube primer, it never would have occurred to me to replace the preamp tube with any thing other than a 12AX7.

Thank You, Myles.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by TwelfthRootOfTwo:

Dear Myles,

 

I was wondering if you could give me some advice on what tubes to use when retubbing my amp. I play many styles, Classic Rock/Blues/Fusion/Jam Band stuff mostly. The amp I am using is a Hughes & Kettner Triamp MKII, through a 4x12 with V30s, though I've been thinking of trying out an Xpattern with some green backs I have laying around. The amp runs on 4 EL34's and 9 12ax7's, currently loaded with Ruby's. 3 dual channel amps, basically I like channel 1a very clean, 1b with some bite, 2a remindes me of a JMC800, 2b great classic rock crunch (I love claptons tone with cream), and 3a and 3b with smooth yet high gain. Any recommondations for this tube novice? I've been playing about 13 years but have never before really owned a good tube amp that I ever wanted to change anything with. I usually play a Les Paul or my Strat. Thanks.

Tube choice and selection is very much personal

taste and preference. You can find a document that

will go into this in great detail, and give you

information on tube types, characteristics, and also

on the rating system used by GT, conversion from

Mesa to GT and Fender to GT tables, matching information

and more.

 

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com is the

website, and the document is the Tube Primer, v1.31 which has a link and button for download or viewing.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Hey Myles-

 

Jimmy's "stumped" over the ancient Guldan! I've got some real mystery mojo clue searching to do, don't I?

 

Where's Scooby and Shaggy when I need them?!? -k

 

P.S.- Thanks again! And if you see him, pass a "thanks" on to Jimmy, as well! -k

[TwelfthRootOfTwo]

Thanks for the site, lots of great info, though it prolly just confused my choices even more so many choices... I'll prolly just try to find someone who plays my particular amp (it's relatively new and so far I've met noone else who plays one personally) just to get a starting point, something to reference from.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by CaevanO'Shite:

Hey Myles-

 

Jimmy's "stumped" over the ancient Guldan! I've got some real mystery mojo clue searching to do, don't I?

 

Where's Scooby and Shaggy when I need them?!? -k

 

P.S.- Thanks again! And if you see him, pass a "thanks" on to Jimmy, as well! -k

Good luck! Did you talk to Jimmy and was he able to help?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by TwelfthRootOfTwo:

Thanks for the site, lots of great info, though it prolly just confused my choices even more so many choices... I'll prolly just try to find someone who plays my particular amp (it's relatively new and so far I've met noone else who plays one personally) just to get a starting point, something to reference from.

TwelfthRootOfTwo..........

 

Maybe start with a 12AX7C in V1 and V2, then a 12AX7R3 ........ that will get you in the ballpark in the front end.

 

Output tubes are actually going to have less of an impact as compared to V1 in some aspects.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Originally posted by myles111:

"Good luck! Did you talk to Jimmy and was he able to help?"

What I meant was, Jimmy e-mailed me back, and said he was "stumped" about that brand, and had never heard of them! That's O.K., if I buy it and get it going, it will be all the cooler if it's a mystery mojofier!

 

I do intend to keep trying to find out about its secret origins; I bet that if I start searching for sites connected to antique radio afficianados, I'll find something about "Guldan" in Columbus, Ohio in the '40s and '50s... -k

[steveoh]

Myles,

 

I noticed on your website you have several Carvin guitars (I have a DC127 myself which I love). What's your opinion of their amps? I have an MTS 50/100W head with a Marshall 1960A cab. It's still got the stock tubes in it, but seems versatile enough to handle many genres of music. After lurking around the posts about changing preamp tubes, you've got me real curious as to how much better this amp could sound. My band plays mostly modern rock covers.

 

steveoh

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by steveoh:

Myles,

 

I noticed on your website you have several Carvin guitars (I have a DC127 myself which I love). What's your opinion of their amps? I have an MTS 50/100W head with a Marshall 1960A cab. It's still got the stock tubes in it, but seems versatile enough to handle many genres of music. After lurking around the posts about changing preamp tubes, you've got me real curious as to how much better this amp could sound. My band plays mostly modern rock covers.

 

steveoh

steveoh ...........

 

Carvin amps are very cost effective, and hold up VERY well in hard use. A number of folks we support over here at GT ( http://www.groovetubes.com/f-n-r.cfm ) use Carvin amps, all of them for the most part.

 

Their 4 EL84 based tweed style amps are pretty cool, and Legacy Amps are pretty popular with lot of tour folks here.

 

Their amps are somewhat like their consoles ... that is, you can drop them off a truck and they keep working. I have used banks of their Solid State DCM-1000 amps for years, without a single failure.

 

Since they only sell direct, without the A mark or B mark pricing, you get very good value for the money.

 

I let folks play some of my Carvin guitars next to some of my originals, such as Strats, and folks that have not played Carvin guitars before are generally very surprised. Their fretboards are true to 1/1000th of an inch or better when you adjust the truss rod that way if you want it that way, they have two graphite rods also in the neck, a 15" fretboard radius (twice what a vintage Strat uses), which is super if you are a bending fanatic, ebony fretboards, and really nice workmanship. If you don't like their pickups, then just drop in a Strat pickguard loaded with whatever pickups you do like, and in 5 minutes, you are up and running again.

 

I like their stuff .... amps, guitars, and studio / live performance gear and consoles.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Say, Myles... I noticed your mention of those "4 EL84 based tweed style amps" from Carvin, and would like to know what sort of SAG and MPI kits, and results, you've used for them.

 

I've got a "Vintage 33" 1x12" combo model, and would like to (when I have the dough-re-mi, which won't be tomorrow) re-tube it for a very vintage but crisp and dynamically responsive tone on the "clean" channel, and a more aggressive, bitey, and toothy, but still dynamically responsive tone on the "soak" channel.

 

I know that it needs new tubes, anyways, as I bought it used and it already has some microphonics and "rattle" (that "B-B in a jar" type, not the cab) issues.

 

Is this too much to ask of the little guy? What do you think? Thanks! -k

[Dak Lander]

Bump