Helpful mod for two tier K&M 18880 keyboard stand

[BluesB3]

If you've been annoyed by your top tier on your K&M 18880 stand pulling out of the square tubing when you go to collapse it for transport, here's an easy helpful mod I did.

 

The pictures and text should be self explanatory but if they're not, just post a question here and I will try to reply.

BluesB3

[AUSSIEKEYS]

Followed your link

 

(just so you know hee hee (

[TomKittel]

what is the purpose? I don’t get it. the knurled screw  keeps the 2nd tier in place already. 

[BluesB3]

2 hours ago, TomKittel said:

what is the purpose? I don’t get it. the knurled screw  keeps the 2nd tier in place already. 

On the side where the crossbar support hooks, if the knurled screw is not retightened after unhooking the crossbar, the whole second tier will pull out knurled screw and all. This way you can leave the knurled screw loose in transport without losing the second tier.

[obxa]

Thanks for posting this. 

Though I guess I'm living on the "incorrect edge".  I often don't use the crossbar. Part of my own hack is to actually have the 2nd tier resting on  those (closed) knurled screws without locking them in- because with my particular seated setup  (Nord Stage or Electro on top - YC bottom) I need  that little bit  of extra height to keep access to the YC.   I know the crossbar provides more stability, I usually just make sure the stand if fully extended widthwise and it's still pretty stable. 

 

BTW- As someone who is shop-challenged, I appreciated learning a what Tri-square is.   It's a tool I never knew about before, and now I want one. 😃

[BluesB3]

I will be posting another article on shortening the crossbar and cutting a new hook

in the future.

[BluesB3]

On 8/12/2024 at 11:05 PM, obxa said:

Thanks for posting this. 

Though I guess I'm living on the "incorrect edge".  I often don't use the crossbar. Part of my own hack is to actually have the 2nd tier resting on  those (closed) knurled screws without locking them in- because with my particular seated setup  (Nord Stage or Electro on top - YC bottom) I need  that little bit  of extra height to keep access to the YC.   I know the crossbar provides more stability, I usually just make sure the stand if fully extended widthwise and it's still pretty stable. 

 

BTW- As someone who is shop-challenged, I appreciated learning a what Tri-square is.   It's a tool I never knew about before, and now I want one. 😃

If I understand correctly how you are using your stand, it occurred to me that you could use this same process (for both legs though) to afix the second tiers to the lower section,

[obxa]

1 hour ago, BluesB3 said:

If I understand correctly how you are using your stand, it occurred to me that you could use this same process (for both legs though) to afix the second tiers to the lower section,

Thanks!   I had posted pics of this rig a few weeks ago in another thread. I might actually take your idea and move the crossbar to another location. Though as mentioned,  stability hasn't been a big issue once everything is on there. 

 

Part of my problem when using the Stage (as opposed to Electro) is  I can't get it low enough for hand comfort, without  blocking the controls of the YC. Several others here have shortened the top arms or drilled additional holes for more height options,  and I've considered that.  Moving the YC  a bit forward ended up being my current solution.  Still a work in progress.  This month using electro and organ rig - but back out in September with this rig, and  may go back to my old on-stage stand for that. 

 

 

apoppos 

[BluesB3]

By using the cross bolt you no longer are limited by the pre drilled holes, you can set the optimal spacing for your particular rig. Likewise the spread of your stand can be customized by shortening the crossbar to the optimum spacing. 

 

I shortened mine to clear the jacks on the back panel.

 

I am contemplating shortening the tier arms but I haven't done it yet.