Getting ready for a soldering extravaganza (my first) …

[Sundown]

Hey all,

 

With my new home studio setup I need to shorten many existing cables and create some new patch cables. I have a lot of excess high-quality wire, so instead of buying yet more cables, I’ve decided to solder them myself. This will be a learning journey as I’ve never soldered before.

 

I’ve got the right tools … I picked up a Weller WE 1010 station, a Milwaukee variable heat gun (for shrink tubing), a Mackie MTEST-1 cable tester, a lighted magnifying glass, and a set of helping hands. I also picked up various wire cutters and strippers.

 

Most of the wire is Gepco 5522m which I think it discontinued, but I was able to screenshot the specs below. It’s a 22-gauge wire with two conductors, a copper braid shield, and a dedicated drain wire. Almost all of the connectors will be TRS so I chose Neutrik NP3X connectors. I do have some quad-star mic cable and I need to make a few new MIDI cables (with the Switchcraft 90-degree “clock” plug), but most of the work is TRS to TRS. The wire for the MIDI cables will be Mogami W2948 or in some cases quad-mic cable (Gepco MP1201 if I recall).

 

I’ll be using Cardas Audio Quad Eutectic solder. The melting point is low (about 365F) but the recommended heat from Cardas is quite high (800F). Given the narrow gauge of wire I’ll be using a small tip on the soldering iron.

 

Some of the demonstration videos for Cardas show a soldering pot (for tinning), but for such small tips I don’t think that’s needed. Admittedly some of the cables in the Cardas videos are thick, twisted speaker wire and not thin-gauge audio cables.

 

I’ve watched a lot of videos and demonstrations and I don’t think there is anything else I can do other than get started and accept that I’ll make some mistakes. 

 

The high heat recommendation from Cardas is a bit puzzling, but I’m open to any suggestions or critique from the forum.

 

I’ll be soldering as many as 30 connectors, so I’ll have quite a bit of practice when this is done.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Todd

 

 

 

 

 

 

[KuruPrionz]

Looks like you've got good tools and components!

The best way to learn how to solder is to solder. 

The one tool you didn't mention would be either some solder wick (braided wire that melted solder will quickly run onto) or a "solder sucker", which uses a spring to create a vacuum and suck up molten solder. I have both and they both have their place. Sometimes the braided wire is the only way to get in there and remove excess solder, other times the solder sucker will work fine and make quick work. Be sure to insulate your fingers from the braid, it can get hot!!!!

 

If you do well, you will not need either of them. They are not expensive so it might to smart to have them both available from the get go. Otherwise, the "hillbilly" method would be to melt the excess solder and blow it off the solder joint with your mouth, bearing in mind you want to take aim so the solder just lands on the concrete floor. 

 

It's best if possible to immobilize both the cable and the jack (don't forget to slide the jack covers onto the cable first!) so that they won't move at all when you lift the soldering iron away from the joint you just soldered. Always let it cool for a bit, a good solder joint will be smooth and shiny. If it is not then you should reheat and try again. 

Let us know how it turns out. I've soldered LOTS of cables, guitar harnesses, bits and dabs in guitar amps and recently I assembled a complete kit from Microphone Parts.com. It's one of my all-time favorite microphones, T-67 was a fun kit to build and it worked first time out. Bang for the buck!

[Nowarezman]

Just practice a dozen or so times before working on anything mission-critical.  

 

I loves the smell of that smokin' flux!

 

nat

 

[RABid]

I've started to learn soldering a few times and always bail. The closest I came is after ordering replacement pickups for a nice Ibanez, only to find that they are not plug and play. Those pickups stayed in the box for 7 years before I took it to a guitar tech and had them installed professionally. I still think about learning and doing some kit Eurorack modules.

[KuruPrionz]

23 minutes ago, RABid said:

I've started to learn soldering a few times and always bail. The closest I came is after ordering replacement pickups for a nice Ibanez, only to find that they are not plug and play. Those pickups stayed in the box for 7 years before I took it to a guitar tech and had them installed professionally. I still think about learning and doing some kit Eurorack modules.

It is only intimidating until you practice on some stuff that doesn't matter and get the hang of it. I figured it out when I was 14 years old and I'm by no means exceptional but I get the job done. 

[ProfD]

Soldering is fun stuff especially for DIY folks.  I enjoy being able to service my own gear. 

 

I had to drop a new pickup in my Rhodes several months ago.  The worst part of it is being old enough to need a magnifier in order to see what I was doing. 😁

 

Many decades ago, back in my electronics class, I could breeze through soldering parts to a printed circuit board without visual aid.  Well, at least I still have the soldering skill I guess.🙄🤣

 

However, the reality of that repair and the fact that it's electromechanical did reinforce that if take the Rhodes out on a gig, I'll have to take another KB as a complement and a backup too.😁

 

Best of luck on the soldering job. As mentioned already, practice a few times on scraps before showtime if necessary.😎

[Sundown]

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I’m going to start with a lower temperature, despite Cardas’s recommendation. Steel melts at ~1,400F and nickel melts at 2,600F, but the eutectic solder is only 365F. 800F seems really high, but my iron can do it if need be. I’m aiming for a three-second joint.

 

I’m not going to do a solder pot … For such small leads it doesn’t make sense and you really need a fume management solution if you’re going to keep a molten pot going.

 

The TRS cables should be pretty easy. I’m looking less forward to the MIDI cables.

 

Todd

[KuruPrionz]

1 hour ago, Sundown said:

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I’m going to start with a lower temperature, despite Cardas’s recommendation. Steel melts at ~1,400F and nickel melts at 2,600F, but the eutectic solder is only 365F. 800F seems really high, but my iron can do it if need be. I’m aiming for a three-second joint.

 

I’m not going to do a solder pot … For such small leads it doesn’t make sense and you really need a fume management solution if you’re going to keep a molten pot going.

 

The TRS cables should be pretty easy. I’m looking less forward to the MIDI cables.

 

Todd

The temperature has more to do with heating the metals being soldered than the solder itself. Braided copper wire will act as a heat sink and quite a bit of the 800 degrees will be transmitted away from the joint. I recommend you try soldering at the higher temperature, you want shiny, clean connections and lower temperatures may not be as effective. Also, the longer you keep heat on the wire, the more the insulation will "melt back" away from the wire and that's not so good either. 

 

Run hot, solder quickly. That's how it's done. Practice!!!!

[Greg Mein]

The solder you've listed contains lead so be sure to have some decent ventilation where you're working.

[Sundown]

5 hours ago, Greg Mein said:

The solder you've listed contains lead so be sure to have some decent ventilation where you're working.

 

Yep - I’m going to have a lot of windows open.

 

Todd

[Sundown]

Well, I did my first trial tonight. Let’s just say that the people who make cables professionally deserve every penny coming to them. I am no threat to their business or livelihood.

 

I will say I’m a bit discouraged because I thought this would come easier to me with my personality type (which is normally suited for detail and delicate work). But my first TRS cables were pretty much sacrificial.

 

Some of the challenge is not the soldering, but the cutting and prep. My cable has a drain wire so all of the braided shield gets cut off, but it’s hard (even under a magnifying glass) to get all of it. And similar to what the instructional videos say, you really want the leads to naturally rest on the contacts. You don’t want to be trying to position the leads while soldering.

 

I’m using Neutrik NP3X connectors and I’m trying to follow the attached diagram when cutting and stripping. I naturally took apart one of my professional cables to see how it was constructed, and the pros used *very* short leads (meaning the main insulation was minimally cut back).

 

I need a better clamp for the cable, as my helping hands use alligator clips and they aren’t holding the wire too well.

 

I also need to work on the sequence. Heating up the ring contact was easy (as was heating up the tip bucket), but for the shield I had to cheat a bit and drip the solder from the top. If I hold the gun under the shield contact, it takes a long time to reach a temperature that solder will melt (even with the gun approaching 800F). The shield contact must be thicker metal than the other contacts.

 

I’m not giving up … I can learn this. I’ve invested a lot in tools and it’s just going to take a lot more practice and patience. I’ll probably have to get some more connectors, as some of them are going to get ruined in the learning curve.

 

Todd

 

 

 

 

[Sundown]

I ordered a different set of vices this morning, as my Weller alligator clip station wasn’t really up to the task. It couldn’t hold the weight. I picked up a pair of these from Amazon.

 

I think I’ll get 8 to 10 more connectors to just practice. I’m also going to see if I can find some videos with tips for cutting/eliminating the insulation and braiding.

 

Todd

 

[Sundown]

Hey all,

 

I’m getting better … I made some “sacrificial” TRS cables to practice getting the wire lengths right, and tonight I made some cables I’m actually using. 

 

The new clamps definitely helped (alligator clips aren’t up to the task, IMO), and I watched a video about unraveling braided shield that really helped.  I’ll share a link soon.

 

My basic learning is that if you can get the setup and prep right (e.g. clean removal of braid and insulation, good stripping, etc.), the soldering is actually pretty easy. These Neutrik TRS connectors (NP3x) perhaps weren’t the easiest starting point, but my rhythm, speed, and accuracy are getting better. Switchcraft TRS look easier, but call it bad luck or coincidence, every failed cable I’ve had has used a Switchcraft connector. The Neutrik’s are tough …

 

I’ll post back with some tips for beginners like me. I still have many TRS to do, but I’ve got some right-angle MIDI cables to do as well (Switchcraft “clock” connector) as well as some Neutrik MIDI connectors.

 

Todd

 

[KuruPrionz]

You'll have this totally down soon!

 

[Sundown]

Here are a few of my joints… As I’ve progressed I’ve used shorter and shorter wires to get the best strain relief.

 

From the images, you can see a bit of brown run-off. I don’t know if that’s just rosin/flux run-off (and normal), or if I’m overheating the piece. The solder goes on clean and shiny when tinning, but after doing the join I’ve noticed some of this run-off. 

 

It wouldn’t be practical to clean it given how small these contacts are, but if there is a reason it’s occurring I can adjust my technique. I’ve been running the iron really hot in accordance with Cardas Audio’s recommendation (close to 800 F).

 

Todd

 

 

[Sundown]

Here is a clearer view of the runoff …

 

 

[Sundown]

My work / quality continues to improve … I’m still slow, but speed will come with time and more practice. I did another six TRS connectors today. I also started adding a small section of clear heat-shrink to protect the drain wire. Soldering is honestly the easy part. Most of the time is clearing away the braid, the insulators, stripping the wire, etc. 

 

When I’m done I’ll try to post some of my learnings/findings for other beginners.

 

Todd

[KuruPrionz]

Are you tinning your leads and the area for connection? The area is optional depending but tinning your leads does make the work nicer.

Looking good! You are correct to work on doing it right and slowly speeding up. That is good technique. 

[Sundown]

5 minutes ago, KuruPrionz said:

Are you tinning your leads and the area for connection? The area is optional depending but tinning your leads does make the work nicer.

Looking good! You are correct to work on doing it right and slowly speeding up. That is good technique. 

 

Yep. All of my wires are stranded 22 AWG and I’ll twist them and tin them. I also drop some solder on the connector and then re-heat for the join.

[Sundown]

I did 11 connectors in about 3 or 4 hours today (all Neutrik TRS). The soldering was less than an hour, but the trimming, de-braiding, stripping, etc. takes time.

 

But I will say I’m getting pretty good at it, if we define good as functional product with pretty clean joints.

 

Todd

[KuruPrionz]

1 hour ago, Sundown said:

I did 11 connectors in about 3 or 4 hours today (all Neutrik TRS). The soldering was less than an hour, but the trimming, de-braiding, stripping, etc. takes time.

 

But I will say I’m getting pretty good at it, if we define good as functional product with pretty clean joints.

 

Todd

You are saving a buttload of money as well. Parts are quite a bit less expensive than completed cables and now you have the ability to fix solder joints, replace parts, etc. 

It's an important and useful skill, kudos!!!

[Sundown]

I did two MIDI cables today (Mogami W2948 wire and Neutrik/Rean DIN connectors). These are more tricky given how small the connectors are and with that Mogami wire, you need to use the braid shield as the ground (which is particularly tough given how small the connections are). But with some strategic heat shrink and some careful maneuvering, I finished two solid cables. 

 

There were *no* instructions for the Neutrik/Rean NYS322 connectors which was frustrating, and virtually all of the videos on YouTube use the Switchcraft right-angle “clock” connector. Luckily I found one short video that used the Neutrik/Rean and I was able to decipher the assembly/disassembly procedure. It’s not self-evident for sure.

 

I have two more MIDI cables to make (with the Switchcraft “clock” connector” and some Gepco MP1201 quad mic cable) and a couple more TRS patch cables, but then I’m done. I’ve learned a lot to say the least.

 

Todd

[Anderton]

On 4/2/2023 at 10:12 PM, Sundown said:

The high heat recommendation from Cardas is a bit puzzling, but I’m open to any suggestions or critique from the forum.

 

Sometimes high heat is the way to cause less damage to heat-sensitive components. That's because you can get in and out quicker, and melt the solder/make the connection before the heat spreads to whatever else connects to what you're soldering.

 

And of course, there's the most important tip: Never solder with shorts on

[Sundown]

I did my Switchcraft clock connectors on Friday. Like any 5-pin DIN the connectors are small. But they are a handy connector between pedals, or in my case, to keep the front of my rack as flush as possible.

 

I’ve pretty much got soldering and cable creation down-pat, though I’m certain it’s something I’ll continue to get better at over time. 

 

These Switchcrafts were joined with quad mic cable (Gepco MP1201) and since one end was already complete, I mimicked the original cable and twisted the quad wires into two pairs. It has a dedicated drain wire which is a bit easier than twisting a braided shield. The only “miss” was that I used a small section of black shrink to cover the ground solder joint, and it wouldn’t fully shrink-up (the diameter was too large). It’s not going anywhere, but next time I’ll use a smaller profile.

 

Todd

[Mr -G-]

Is there a source of "reasonably priced" angled din connectors? Those Switchcraft ones in the UK they are about £15 each. 😱

[Sundown]

5 hours ago, Mr -G- said:

Is there a source of "reasonably priced" angled din connectors? Those Switchcraft ones in the UK they are about £15 each. 😱

 

Great question … I don’t think so. I’ve seen some molded cables that are fairly low-cost that have right angles (e.g. Hosa), but nothing that has the adjustable rotation of the Switchcraft.

[Sundown]

And that’s a wrap … About 30 connectors in a little over 30 days.

 

At the end, I became quite good at making cables. It might not be for everyone but it’s a skill I’m glad I have. And it’s something that I’m sure I’ll get better at over time, no matter how much practice I get.

 

MIDI cables were definitely the most challenging. The pin proximity and the size of the wells requires some patience and focus. But you can do it with practice. 

 

If anyone is interested in lessons learned or tips for beginners, I’m happy to write something up.

 

Todd

[Anderton]

13 hours ago, Sundown said:

If anyone is interested in lessons learned or tips for beginners, I’m happy to write something up.

 

If you want to write something up, of course you can post it here but I'd be happy to also post it on craiganderton.org, my free educational site. The only issue is Wordpress automatically adds the date and my name in a byline, but the type is pretty small. I can give a separate line with your name in bigger type, and include a bio for you at the end if you want.

 

 

[Stokely]

Very cool.  I think if I hadn't gone all "in the box" I'd find this very handy indeed   My soldering skills were always middling at best and I haven't done it much.

[Sundown]

On 5/8/2023 at 12:31 PM, Anderton said:

 

If you want to write something up, of course you can post it here but I'd be happy to also post it on craiganderton.org, my free educational site. The only issue is Wordpress automatically adds the date and my name in a byline, but the type is pretty small. I can give a separate line with your name in bigger type, and include a bio for you at the end if you want.

 

 

 

Hi Craig,

 

Boy, that’s an honor and I appreciate it. Let me see if I can offer something unique or meaningful and then we’ll see where to post it. Honestly video is the best medium for teaching cable making, so anything I do in writing is going to be more of a “do’s and don’ts” post, along with some specific tool recommendations. Like any new pursuit, some things I bought were meaningful and effective, and some items turned out to be paper weights.

 

But given that I just learned this, I think I can offer some tips to the beginner without the curse of knowledge (i.e. the in-built assumptions and paradigms that experts amass, and forget that they have amassed while teaching beginners).

 

I’ll work on it a bit and I’ll see what I can do. Thanks again.

 

Todd