Ash the world turns...

[Caevan O’Shite]

I think it was wise to order the body with a finish, even if it takes a little longer to get here!

 

Agreed; I mean, =IF= I wanted to spend the time and the money for equipment to be able to apply a lacquer finish to the body myself- either traditional nitrocellulose lacquer, or a water-based lacquer such as Eric Aceto prefers to use (he's genuinely a world-class expert in both), sure, that'd be great! BUT, I do NOT want to. I'm sure that it'd cost me more to do it myself, than what it's cost for Warmoth to do it for me.

 

Now, the neck is unfinished, "raw"; I may leave it that way- but I am much more likely to at least finish the face, sides, and back of the headstock with clear gloss or vintage tinted "Traditional Aged Gloss" nitrocellulose-lacquer. Maybe the fretboard, as well.

 

I might also use a wood "bleaching" product to lighten the roasted maple where I apply lacquer, so as not to darken it too much. (Finishes, even clear gloss, darken roasted maple quite a bit.)

 

I will either leave the back of the neck "raw" and unfinished; or, I might apply one or another oil type "finish".

 

This Roasted Quartersawn Maple will be VERY stable and not likely at all to shrink- as often happens around the fret-ends on the side of a Fender-style fretboard- but, as dried out as it is, it might absorb moisture if given the opportunity. I'd like to hedge my bet in my favor with at least an application of oil.

 

All of the above will take further time, but I've received the neck and soon the body (it should be here by Wednesday) ahead of schedule than I expected- I thought it'd be another month! Anything that will make me proceed more gradually with caution is probably a good thing, really. I want no regrets!

 

Though I do regret that I'm still waiting on that bridge plate... !! If it weren't EXACTLY what I most definitely want for this guitar, I'd just get another one as quickly as possible.

UPDATE: Marc Rutters contacted me to politely let me know that he's waiting on items (including my bridge-plate) held-up at the place he sent them to for plating. 'S just a matter of time.

 

If any of you ever need some great hardware for Telecaster/Broadcaster/"No-caster" type axes, be sure to look at what Marc Rutters has to offer- including custom work. He makes high-end Les Paul and Telecaster style guitars, too!

[CEB]

I'm thinking of getting an MJT strat body for an old 70s strat that I was stupid enough to put a kahler bridge on in the 80s

[Larryz]

I think you made the right decision Caevan. I'm sure Warmoth has the best finishers and the right equipment to do a great job on the finish for you. Let us know how the finish looks when the body comes in. It wouldn't be worth buying the equipment unless you planned on doing a few guitars and tested your skills on a few throwaway bodies 1st. I hope that bridge plate comes in soon as I know it's hard to wait on parts when you have such an exciting project to work on! Glad you are keeping us in the loop as it's really fun reading your posts!

[Caevan O’Shite]

I think you made the right decision Caevan. I'm sure Warmoth has the best finishers and the right equipment to do a great job on the finish for you. Let us know how the finish looks when the body comes in. It wouldn't be worth buying the equipment unless you planned on doing a few guitars and tested your skills on a few throwaway bodies 1st. I hope that bridge plate comes in soon as I know it's hard to wait on parts when you have such an exiting project to work on! Glad you are keeping us in the loop as it's really fun reading your posts!

 

Thanks for saying so! Photos WILL be following- first, the neck and body together without hardware (other than the neck-plate and bolts), when the body comes in a few days.

 

After that, I'll probably start a whole new thread, with a link in the initial post to this one.

 

 

Man, I am so chompin' at the bit to get that bridge-plate, though!

[Caevan O’Shite]

So far, so good:

 

(Haahh! Some wayward lawn-trimming blades of grass made their way onto the body... )

 

[KuruPrionz]

Looking great so far!!!!

 

50 years of sweat and grease will work wonders.

[Caevan O’Shite]

The body's a bit darker 'in person' than it appears in the photo; VERY glossy and shiny, too! I'll just see about THAT... !

 

It's very light, too! As is the neck.

 

The neck shows more figure, like very subtle flame or tiger stripe, 'in person', as well; now, I did not request or pay for figure- and I did not even know that Quartersawn Maple COULD have figure... ! An added bonus, and I'm glad it's subtle- I love figured woods, but here, 'IMHO', it'd look a bit too ostentatious to have AAA, AAAA, or AAAAA Grade Figured Maple...

 

The neck fits VERY TIGHTLY into the body's neck-pocket. But fit it does.

 

To safeguard against cracking the rather brittle roasted woods, I need to get some paraffin wax to lightly coat all the screws with. I almost forgot that, and almost started to bolt the neck to the body!

 

I apparently also forgot to order the string-ferrules for the back of the body; the string-through holes are counter-sunk so that the ferrules will sit flush, and Warmoth stated on their site that their ferrules will be required to fit. Durrr...

 

 

One-Piece Roasted Swamp Ash body, with Strat-like "comfort contours" and a sculpted neck-heel

 

One-Piece Roasted Quartersawn Maple, "59 Roundback" profile (think '59 Les Paul), 10" - 16" Compound Radius, Stainless Steel 6150 "Jumbo" frets, Walnut "skunk stripe" plugs

 

Black Bakelite pickguard, nitrocellulose lacquered

[surfergirl]

It's beautiful. I love that case, I have to find one.

[KuruPrionz]

The body's a bit darker 'in person' than it appears in the photo; VERY glossy and shiny, too! I'll just see about THAT... !

 

It's very light, too! As is the neck.

 

The neck shows more figure, like very subtle flame or tiger stripe, 'in person', as well; now, I did not request or pay for figure- and I did not even know that Quartersawn Maple COULD have figure... ! An added bonus, and I'm glad it's subtle- I love figured woods, but here, 'IMHO', it'd look a bit too ostentatious to have AAA, AAAA, or AAAAA Grade Figured Maple...

 

The neck fits VERY TIGHTLY into the body's neck-pocket. But fit it does.

 

To safeguard against cracking the rather brittle roasted woods, I need to get some paraffin wax to lightly coat all the screws with. I almost forgot that, and almost started to bolt the neck to the body!

 

I apparently also forgot to order the string-ferrules for the back of the body; the string-through holes are counter-sunk so that the ferrules will sit flush, and Warmoth stated on their site that their ferrules will be required to fit. Durrr...

 

 

One-Piece Roasted Swamp Ash body, with Strat-like "comfort contours" and a sculpted neck-heel

 

One-Piece Roasted Quartersawn Maple, "59 Roundback" profile (think '59 Les Paul), 10" - 16" Compound Radius, Stainless Steel 6150 "Jumbo" frets, Walnut "skunk stripe" plugs

 

Black Bakelite pickguard, nitrocellulose lacquered

 

Gonna touch basses on some of this stuffs.

 

#000 or #0000 (if you can find it) steel wool will buff a shiny finish to a nice satiny glow. Be aware that your body oils will constantly make the parts that you touch shiny again. Don't fight that battle, you will not win.

At the same time, it does feel much nicer to go satin on the back of the neck and on the sculpted part of the body where your right forearm will rest. I'd leave the rest shiny, maybe "satinize" the fretboard but it will shine back up pretty quickly.

 

I LOVE light, heavy guitars cause too much tension in shoulder and neck.

 

ALL figured maple will display more "flame" and have more shifting patterns if it is quarter sawn. ALL wood in fact, quarter sawn is how many woods show that shimmer, including the spruce tops on acoustic guitars - those are all quarter sawn. Violin backs and sides are all quarter sawn. Burls will show figure however you cut them but when sawing logs for acoustic instruments, quarter sawn is not only stronger, it is much prettier.

 

If there is finish in the neck pocket you can use a very sharp chisel to gently scrape a tiny bit of it off the sides of the neck route, just enough so the neck fits snugly without having to press it into place will do the trick.

 

Screw holes in maple necks should be drilled to be just slightly larger in diameter than the barrel (not the threads) of the screws that will be used to mount the neck. You can use a bar of soap, candle wax, beeswax or paraffin to lubricate the threads of the screws, all of them will work fine and cause no problems.

 

It will take a custom drill bit to safely and properly seat the ferrules flush. I don't know if Warmoth has one but it should be done BEFORE the finish is put on. Doing it now may cause the area of the finish directly surrounding the ferrules to be more susceptible to chipping or cracking. Ferrules don't stick out enough to cause pain or bruising, just put a stock set in and live with it. Not the end of the world. If you REALLY have to to it, be prepared to carefully brush lacquer into the sides of the newly cut ferrule holes to bond with the wood and the original finish. An extra step but essential if you want to do it right.

 

Looks like a sweet guitar build to me!!!!!

[Caevan O’Shite]

It's beautiful. I love that case, I have to find one.

Thanks! It's a Fender "tweed"/"thermometer" Telecaster case. Now, this case specifically fits Telecaster type guitars- and vintage patterned ones, at best. A Strat will almost certainly not fit, and I mean not at all fit, not just loosely or not ideally. In fact, it is so "vintage" patterned that my "Modern Telecaster" patterned body just barely squeeezes in, and sits VERY snugly inside. At first, it seemed it wouldn't fit at all, and I was distressed and thinking I would have to return the case! A little careful, gentle but firm finessing got its padding to cooperate and allow the guitar to settle-in, but still with a bit of a push.

 

I do not know if anyone at all makes a similarly "thermometer" shaped, form-following case that will fit a Stratocaster, with or without "tweed". Fender does have nice Fender-branded, "tweed" covered rectangular versions of their Classic series and Deluxe series hardshell cases, among others; and other makers have similar cases, as well.

 

EDIT: I just noticed this among the results of my Google search- bear in mind, I have no idea what their quality is, I'm not necessarily endorsing this specific make and model, OR the seller- though it looks good in the photos:

 

Tweed Case 4 Fender Strat Tele etc etc on Reverb ( < link)

 

 

 

#000 or #0000 (if you can find it) steel wool will buff a shiny finish to a nice satiny glow. Be aware that your body oils will constantly make the parts that you touch shiny again. Don't fight that battle, you will not win.

At the same time, it does feel much nicer to go satin on the back of the neck and on the sculpted part of the body where your right forearm will rest. I'd leave the rest shiny, maybe "satinize" the fretboard but it will shine back up pretty quickly.

Thanks! I don't mind the shiny gloss finish on the body, though- in fact, I love it! I was just meaning that, once the guitar's FINALLY, COMPLETELY done, it'll get the "relic" treatment simply by my playing it A LOT and probably, eventually, getting banged around to a degree or two. This guitar, as all I've had have been, will get BROKEN IN, LIVED IN and THEN some.

 

The back of the neck will either remain 'unfinished', or possibly get an oil 'finish' like semi-polymerized Tung Oil and Butcher's Wax, Tru-Oil, etc. I may put a rattlecan nitrocellulose lacquer finish on the face, sides, and back of the headstock-- or, maybe the aforementioned oils, or, maybe "burnished" super-fine sanding and polishing. The fretboard... ? I'm unsure which way to go there, this being maple, but also roasted maple... ?? I've got lots of time to decide and do it right the first time.

 

 

I LOVE light, heavy guitars cause too much tension in shoulder and neck.

You'd love this one, then! And Warmoth even had a few "extra light" swamp-ash and roasted swamp ash bodies in stock when I was perusing, before I ordered this effectively custom made-to-order body; mine is more or less 'medium-light'... The torrification process really reduces the weight of the wood by quite a lot, as well!

 

My Les Paul is NOT light, even by Les Paul standards. However, I think that this contributes to its big, deep, tight low-end tonal qualities-- and apparently, G.E. Smith thought similarly about some of his heavier vintage guitars.

 

I think that being medium-light will be a positive factor in this Telecaster stylee axes ringing upper-midrange tone and presence.

 

ALL figured maple will display more "flame" and have more shifting patterns if it is quarter sawn. ALL wood in fact, quarter sawn is how many woods show that shimmer, including the spruce tops on acoustic guitars - those are all quarter sawn. Violin backs and sides are all quarter sawn. Burls will show figure however you cut them but when sawing logs for acoustic instruments, quarter sawn is not only stronger, it is much prettier.

I did not know that! I'd always thought that striking figure seen in the tops and- particularly- the necks of some guitars was found primarily in flat-sawn pieces. I thought that I'd even read that somewhere once. Either way, I'm happy with the subtle amount of figure shifting about as the neck catches the light while in motion; its subtlety and being there at all are a 'Win-WIN' as far as I'm concerned.

 

If there is finish in the neck pocket you can use a very sharp chisel to gently scrape a tiny bit of it off the sides of the neck route, just enough so the neck fits snugly without having to press it into place will do the trick.

Thanks! Now, while I knew that- and greatly appreciate your advising me so- the neck-pocket did NOT get any finish in it, it's bare wood. Great job, peoples of Warmoth!

 

Screw holes in maple necks should be drilled to be just slightly larger in diameter than the barrel (not the threads) of the screws that will be used to mount the neck. You can use a bar of soap, candle wax, beeswax or paraffin to lubricate the threads of the screws, all of them will work fine and cause no problems.

I'm finding an appeal in beeswax... And you are correct. In this case, the screw-holes were already properly drilled by Warmoth.

 

I may go with four individual ferrules for the neck-bolt screws, instead of the neck-plate; largely because of the "Contoured Neck Heel" on this body, which presents an angle plane instead of a straight/square plane for the screw-heads. I had not thought of that; though I DID order the appropriately shorter and longer mixed set of screws specified by Warmoth just for these Contoured Neck Heels.

 

It will take a custom drill bit to safely and properly seat the ferrules flush. I don't know if Warmoth has one but it should be done BEFORE the finish is put on. Doing it now may cause the area of the finish directly surrounding the ferrules to be more susceptible to chipping or cracking. Ferrules don't stick out enough to cause pain or bruising, just put a stock set in and live with it. Not the end of the world. If you REALLY have to to it, be prepared to carefully brush lacquer into the sides of the newly cut ferrule holes to bond with the wood and the original finish. An extra step but essential if you want to do it right.

Oh, the string-through holes for the ferrules were already drilled and counter-sunk pre-finish, and it appears that Warmoth masked or plugged 'em when applying the finish- they look bare inside. I just should have ordered their matching ferrules that the holes were drilled and counter-sunk specifically for- and I thought that I had, though a look at the original order information doesn't support that. (I think that I thought that the part of the process where I requested the counter-sink included the ferrules themselves.)

 

Looks like a sweet guitar build to me!!!!!

Thanks! The finish brought more of a 'caramel' than 'butterscotch' hued appearance from the roasted wood, but it looks nice and is still far more beautiful than Jimmy Page's brown B-Bender Tele... !

 

Speaking of which, I'll later, after the whole guitar is otherwise completely done, be trying a Rolling Bender B-Bender ( < link) saddle on this guitar; check 'em out! I'll be going with the simple, 'palm-bender' arrangement, no drilling or pull-strings involved...

[Larryz]

I'll make a few comments from memory but remember I have CRS (can't remember sh*t)..I'm not nit picking (pun intended) LoL!

 

1. I love the pics and would really like to see the back and sides as the contoured back does make a huge difference on Teles IMHO.

2. On the string ferrules, I would order them right away from Warmoth. A tight fit is a must and having the right size is likewise. I had a MIM Nashville Tele I sold to my brother years ago (as of last week he still has it and still likes it). A couple of the string ferrules came loose and would come out when I would change strings no big deal but it did irritate me a little. I think it was due to the wood shrinking a little or a loose fit.

3. I really like the wood grain in the fretboard showing all the way up and through the headstock.

4. I love the darker body color which reminds me of my walnut guitar I like the grain showing on the body too. I'm not fond of the grass clippings in the pics and wonder if it's yours or if it came from Warmoth? If it has to stay in place, I could live with it as it's still a beauty!

5. I love the lighter weight concept.

6. I have a guitar that needed a little push each time I put it in the case as it fit real snug in one spot. The more I use it, the less push, now it stays in without any pushing (but I still do it now and then just as a habit LoL!) Very nice Fender tweed case!

7. Having that slanted selector cut gives you the option of running it stock with the volume up front or reversed with the volume up front. Either way the selector switch won't lean on the volume or tone knob with the slanted cut. I would mount the switch and tone and volume knobs/pots and before wiring them, try them out a little for the feel of reach and for the feel of pup selection, volume swells, etc. Whatever controls you feel for your style of playing will be fun to experiment with before wiring...

8. Overall, I give it an A+ and I know you'll give it some great wear and tear patina!

 

Congrats! She's beauty! And thanks for keeping us posted...we are living through YOU!

 

ps. the B Bender concept sounds good too! Especially if you're going to inject a little steel guitar country vibe (which Teles are famous for!).

[Caevan O’Shite]

I'll make a few comments from memory but remember I have CRS (can't remember sh*t)..I'm not nit picking (pun intended) LoL!

 

1. I love the pics and would really like to see the back and sides as the contoured back does make a huge difference on Teles IMHO.

2. On the string ferrules, I would order them right away from Warmoth. A tight fit is a must and having the right size is likewise. I had a MIM Nashville Tele I sold to my brother years ago (as of last week he still has it and still likes it). A couple of the string ferrules came loose and would come out when I would change strings no big deal but it did irritate me a little. I think it was due to the wood shrinking a little or a loose fit.

3. I really like the wood grain in the fretboard showing all the way up and through the headstock.

4. I love the darker body color which reminds me of my walnut guitar I like the grain showing on the body too. I'm not fond of the grass clippings in the pics and wonder if it's yours or if it came from Warmoth? If it has to stay in place, I could live with it as it's still a beauty!

5. I love the lighter weight concept.

6. I have a guitar that needed a little push each time I put it in the case as it fit real snug in one spot. The more I use it, the less push, now it stays in without any pushing (but I still do it now and then just as a habit LoL!) Very nice Fender tweed case!

7. Having that slanted selector cut gives you the option of running it stock with the volume up front or reversed with the volume up front. Either way the selector switch won't lean on the volume or tone knob with the slanted cut. I would mount the switch and tone and volume knobs/pots and before wiring them, try them out a little for the feel of reach and for the feel of pup selection, volume swells, etc. Whatever controls you feel for your style of playing will be fun to experiment with before wiring...

8. Overall, I give it an A+ and I know you'll give it some great wear and tear patina!

 

Congrats! She's beauty! And thanks for keeping us posted...we are living through YOU!

 

ps. the B Bender concept sounds good too! Especially if you're going to inject a little steel guitar country vibe (which Teles are famous for!).

 

1. I'll see what I can do in the next few days!

 

2. Yeah, I've already ordered them from Warmoth, for the EXACT precision, flush fit that the body was drilled for.

 

You might consider some Titebond II for those loose ferrules, any excess squeezing out will be easy to clean up; do NOT use ANY Gorilla products, since they expand while curing and can cause problems small and big.

 

3. Yeah... I'm diggin' the one-piece neck and body!

 

4. The blades of grass just blew over in the wind just as I was taking the photo, they're from lawnwork nearby and NOT in the finish, which is impeccably well done.

 

5. Yeah, it's nice, and gives a really nice ringing tone! The light weight wasn't a goal of mine, but it's a byproduct of it being swamp ash, and roasted swamp ash, at that.

 

6. A snug fit in the case is not a bad thing.

 

7. I most definitely intend to have the volume control first in line, where the switch usually is. I might have to get a different plate, though (still mounting it "reverse"), so that the switch that I ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY WILL be using will fit, if a little additional routing for one corner of the switch would not be covered up by the plate as-is...

 

8. I'll definitely get a full breaking-in and work out in short time!

[Larryz]

1. Cool! Always looking forward to more pics...

2. Cool! +1 on Gorilla glue oozing out. I never use it anymore. I learned that one on strap holders. I use a drop or two on the threads of Super glue and no more oozing or coming loose. I'll mention Titebond to my brother if he ever decides to glue the two ferrules. Glad to hear you have the right fitting ones on order at Warmoth.

3. Cool!

4. Very happy to hear the grass blades were just resting from the winds and not in the finish!!! I was sure Warmoth would do a good job. The finish is looking great!

5. Cool!

6. +1

7. The volume up front is a great concept mod with the switch at the back. +1 it would be better to go with a stock plate if you can avoid any additional routing or fitting issues.

8. Can't wait for the workout review!

 

Ps. would like to hear/see more on the "palm bender"...

 

[Caevan O’Shite]

8. Can't wait for the workout review!

Being as I want to do EVERYTHING RIGHT the FIRST time, that could be months away. Seriously.

 

Lindy Fralin wants me to rate and review my new pickups, too!

 

I was surprised that the neck and body arrived considerably sooner than expected!

 

Ps. would like to hear/see more on the "palm bender"...

 

 

Start HERE: Rolling Bender B-Bender ( < link)

[Larryz]

Getting it right the first time always takes time...I know you'll do a great job reviewing the pups in a few months. The Rolling B bender is a super cool design that I had not seen before. I would have an extra matching barrel saddle in case you ever want to go back to a stock trio. It definitely has the country vibe! Looks like a very simple design compared to other B benders and I'm surprised that many Tele twangers don't all have them on their guitars!

[Caevan O’Shite]

I would have an extra matching barrel saddle in case you ever want to go back to a stock trio.

Oh, I already had a full set of barrel saddles- in fact, I have two complete matching sets of Gotoh In-Tune Compensated three-barrel saddles, one set in brass, the other in titanium, so that I can mix 'em for optimized tone. I'll have the titanium saddle beneath the Low-E and A strings, the brass under the B and High-E strings, and one or the other below the middle D and G strings, probably titanium but I'll try both.

 

Then, later on, after settling all that, I'll try out that Rolling Bender saddle on the B and High-E strings. I suspect that I'll really like it, and the slippery Graph Tech White TUSQ XL nut (and black TUSQ XL string-trees) and Kluson Revolution locking tuners should go with it extremely well.

 

(I might not need to install those string-trees, what with the staggered, locking tuners- but I've got 'em if I need 'em.)

 

 

It definitely has the country vibe! Looks like a very simple design compared to other B benders and I'm surprised that many Tele twangers don't all have them on their guitars!

I'm not sure how long they've been around, and/or been more widely advertised and available; I only learned about 'em in the past month or so- about the same time as the Free-Way 3-Way/6-Position switch... Excellent timing, right when I was deciding what all I wanted to get to build this guitar!

[Larryz]

When I watched the Rolling bender in your vid link Caevan, I was noticing the players palm further back behind the bridge. Then I watched this video and it addressed what I was thinking about. He also likes keeping a stock saddle just in case you have a problem getting parts or find it's not your thing. This guy gives a great chord demo explanation on using the bender. His only real downside is the cost and lack of palm muting while engaging the bender. But hey, it really does sound cool!

 

[Caevan O’Shite]

When I watched the Rolling bender in your vid link Caevan, I was noticing the players palm further back behind the bridge. Then I watched this video and it addressed what I was thinking about. He also likes keeping a stock saddle just in case you have a problem getting parts or find it's not your thing. This guy gives a great chord demo explanation on using the bender. His only real downside is the cost and lack of palm muting while engaging the bender. But hey, it really does sound cool!

 

Yeah; on the one hand, this Rolling Bender model is relatively 'stealthy', compact and unobtrusive- as well as elegantly simple in installation and completely reversible to stock condition. No wood or metal need be removed or modified! And, a HUGE plus- it keeps the string strung-though from the back of the guitar, so it'll sound and feel the same.

 

On the other hand, it's not as hands-free as bigger, much more complicated mechanical string-bender devices that use a strap or cord pulling mechanism, like the classic Parsons/White B-Bender.

 

Now, most of the time- perhaps all of the time- that I'd be using a Bender, I'd be going for ringing, sustaining, cascading tones- think pedal-steel, Jimmy Page's B-Bender use on a few Led Zeppelin songs, etc.- so, having bridge-muting being more difficult or impossible while deploying the Bender won't be so much of a problem for me. I'd prefer even greater 'hands free' operation, but if I really find the need for that, I'll just hafta make another guitar with different, more complicated Bender machinery!

 

Bear in mind that I used to have THREE tailpiece-mounted Epiphone EZ-Benders on the Ruby Les Paul I used to have (originally designed by Richard Bowden, and currently returned to being branded as the Bowden B-Bender ( < link), with higher quality-control in manufacturing). Their levers sat much further back than these Rolling Benders do, and impacted picking-hand position and technique to a much greater degree!

 

Shown here with the first of three EZ-Benders installed:

 

[Larryz]

I thought it was cool that the Rolling B benders were available for Tele and Strats. Then looking at the Bowden B bender link showing it being used on acoustics, LPs, Tele, Strat, etc., was cool info. I think the Rolling is more compact and less hardware so it will look much better on your guitar. Looks like you have had a lot of experience using the Bowden from your LP pic. The only B Bender info I was familiar with was the Fender Tele using a knob behind the bridge and the strap pulling one (used by Marty Stuart), both of which had complex systems inside the bodies. I really like the Rolling design for easy conversion with less hardware. I don't think I would like the waist pull or the strap pull designs even though I love the steel guitar sound.

 

On a side note, I played on a Tele using a Bigsby in a guitar store Sam Ash IIRC. It was way too much hardware and threw off the guitars' weight balance IMHO. I would not want a Bigsby on a Tele.

[Caevan O’Shite]

One thing that I really like about this little Rolling Bender Saddle is zero removal of wood. I went to a bit of time and expense to have a one-piece, solid body made from Roasted Swamp Ash, and I DEFINITELY did NOT want to have chunks of it removed!

 

For me, it was really cool being able to have Benders on that Les Paul- I had the guitar specifically strung and set-up for Open-D Tuning (and with a quick half-step turn of a tuner, Open-Dm and DADGAD!), the Benders on the 2nd/High-A String, 3rd/F# String (or 3rd/F or 3rd/G when in Dm and DADGAD), and 5th/Low-A string. This was fantastic for fingerstyle fretted playing, and amazing for slide! (Note that my slide playing has been neglected for years and has suffered, I sound HORRIBLE on slide currently! Hehhehh... ! ) All that- on a Les Paul with FAT P-90 "soap-bars"... !

 

But I digress.

 

I recall playing a Bigsby-equipped ancient, very beat-up '50s vintage 'white-guard' Telecaster in a store when I was just learning to play; it played really, really nicely, and happened to be very light-weight guitar, even for a Tel, and especially even for a Tele with a Bigsby. It must have been expertly set-up; I liked it, but couldn't buy it at the time. I hope it's being played and enjoyed to this day, somewhere...

[KuruPrionz]

A friend had a B bender on a Tele decades ago. It was sort of a single string reverse Bigsby with a rounded spot you pressed down on instead of a longer handle. As I recall, it did require driving screws into the top of the body (that sucks) and the string went through a hole in the back of the bridge (and that sucks even more!!!!). He kept it for a few months and then it was gone. I tried it out, didn't like it much. The B string didn't sound like the rest of them, that's a fatal flaw in my book.

 

Videos of this new one sound very good, I like it. Probably won't get one though. I do have 2 Teles, my Franken Tele (photo attached) and an ash bodied orange stained Tele that I gigged on the regular but now has a Warmoth baritone neck on it and is tuned down to B (no photo yet...).

 

The neck on the Franken Tele is a Warmoth 1 3/4" Fatback that I've been flogging for decades, bought it in the 80's - a beloved beater.

[Caevan O’Shite]

A friend had a B bender on a Tele decades ago. It was sort of a single string reverse Bigsby with a rounded spot you pressed down on instead of a longer handle. As I recall, it did require driving screws into the top of the body (that sucks) and the string went through a hole in the back of the bridge (and that sucks even more!!!!). He kept it for a few months and then it was gone. I tried it out, didn't like it much. The B string didn't sound like the rest of them, that's a fatal flaw in my book.

 

Videos of this new one sound very good, I like it.

 

That's one thing that I expect to like very much about this Rolling Bender Saddle- its sound and tone and feel etc. should be virtually indistinguishable from the standard/vintage style brass barrel saddle.

 

I do have 2 Teles, my Franken Tele (photo attached) and an ash bodied orange stained Tele that I gigged on the regular but now has a Warmoth baritone neck on it and is tuned down to B (no photo yet...).

 

Your somewhat modernized "Franken-Tele" looks like a great guitar! And that baritone Tele sounds like it's probably a fantastic, cool axe, as well.

 

The neck on the Franken Tele is a Warmoth 1 3/4" Fatback that I've been flogging for decades, bought it in the 80's - a beloved beater.

 

These Warmoth necks are fantastic!

[KuruPrionz]

A friend had a B bender on a Tele decades ago. It was sort of a single string reverse Bigsby with a rounded spot you pressed down on instead of a longer handle. As I recall, it did require driving screws into the top of the body (that sucks) and the string went through a hole in the back of the bridge (and that sucks even more!!!!). He kept it for a few months and then it was gone. I tried it out, didn't like it much. The B string didn't sound like the rest of them, that's a fatal flaw in my book.

 

Videos of this new one sound very good, I like it.

 

That's one thing that I expect to like very much about this Rolling Bender Saddle- its sound and tone and feel etc. should be virtually indistinguishable from the standard/vintage style brass barrel saddle.

 

I do have 2 Teles, my Franken Tele (photo attached) and an ash bodied orange stained Tele that I gigged on the regular but now has a Warmoth baritone neck on it and is tuned down to B (no photo yet...).

 

Your somewhat modernized "Franken-Tele" looks like a great guitar! And that baritone Tele sounds like it's probably a fantastic, cool axe, as well.

 

The neck on the Franken Tele is a Warmoth 1 3/4" Fatback that I've been flogging for decades, bought it in the 80's - a beloved beater.

 

These Warmoth necks are fantastic!

 

Yes, I am a big fan of Warmoth necks. I have one on a Tele, another on a baritone Tele, one on my Strat (the one I scalloped) and an ebony fretboard Jazz neck on a P Bass body. All of them are awesome, they make great stuff and they offer enough sizes and shapes to please everybody.

 

I keep meaning to make the trip down to Puyallup, it's not that far from Bellingham - would be a day trip. The trick is timing, you do NOT want to get stuck in Seattle "rush hour" traffic (can you say 3 lanes each way parking lot?).

[surfergirl]

Hi there, any updates?

[Caevan O’Shite]

Hi there, any updates?

 

Haahh! Thanks for asking. I'm still waiting for the bridge plate- and a few other items; and I'm undecided about a few things, such as finish/oil/etc. for the neck, headstock, fretboard...

 

I'll eventually have a qualified Pro do final nut-slot and fret work; while I might enjoy learning how and doing it myself, the cost of the necessary tools and everything would really stack up!

 

I did get daring and bolted the neck on just now- and before you laugh, bear in mind that:

 

• The holes in the neck for the screws to bolt it to the body, came smooth-bored, and not yet threaded- the metal-threads of the screws cut the initial threads in the wood as I twist the screwdriver. (I did apply some paraffin wax to the screws to lubricate them a little). This is a good bit different than removing and replacing a neck on a guitar that was already put together! If I hadn't bought the screws from the maker of the body and neck, I might have needed to bore the holes out a size larger just to be sure.

 

• The neck is one-piece roasted maple- a bit brittle and prone to cracking and splitting if one is not careful(!).

 

• This body has an angled "Contoured Heel", so the four screws have to be two different lengths, so as NOT to come drilling out through the face of the fretboard; I'd been undecided for a while about whether or not to get some kind of fancy counter-sink cut into the holes in body and use four individual ferrules instead of a neck-plate, or maybe have similar angled counter-sinks cut into a plate; I decided to just go with the standard neck-plate for now.

 

When we have another bright sunny day without rain AND I have the time, I'll get a few photos of that, and the back of the body and neck. (I promised LarryZ and I'm overdue!)

[Larryz]

re: photos: No worries Caevan, time is on your side...glad the neck connection went smoothly!

[Caevan O’Shite]

(Pssst- surfergirl- Did you see the photo and link I posted above, for a similar "tweed" "thermometer" case that would fit a Strat?

 

Alright, here ya go, ash- ehr, as promised- the rib-cage cut, and neck-heel and cutaway "Comfort Contours" on the back of the body:

 

(Note that what may appear to be some unusual markings in the woodgrain and/or figure, are actually reflections of the side of the house and a sliding-door... )

 

[desertbluesman]

Way nice amigo. Looks excellent.

[Larryz]

She's a beauty Caevan! Love the belly contour and the softened cutaway...along with the grain on the back of the neck and the beautiful grain on the back of the body!

[surfergirl]

Caevan thank you, I did see the pic of the case you posted. I really like the lining in yours, the other one looks kinda cheap, flimsy or whatever word I'm looking for compared to yours.