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Finally played (bought!) a Warwick that I REALLY like...


Gruuve

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I stopped by Sam Ash for a bit tonight, and happened to see a used Warwick Thumb bolt-on hanging on the wall. It's a 5-string and the fairly uncommon wide string spacing. So, I pulled it down and played it for a while. I had difficulty putting it down...there might be a new bass in my near future.

 

I've played quite a few Warwicks since everyone raves about them so much, but I hadn't found one yet that seemed bright enough to me. Well, this guy is quite bright. Nice and growly with what seemed like a strong lower-mid concentration with fingerstyle play, but more than bright enough for slap to sound quite good. It has two MEC soapbar pickups, one near the bridge and one in the sweet spot (nothing in "neck" position, so to speak). It was almost as nasally as my Tobias near the bridge, but nice and full in the middle or near the neck. The neck felt a little chunky (I'm used to the slighter small and asymetrical neck profile of the Tobias), but still comfortable. The action was a little high (compared to my own basses), but even so it played really nice. I didn't try it with a strap, so I don't know how well it balances, nor did I get a feel for if it's really heavy after a while...but it sure did sound and play nice. :cool:

 

They've put the bass on "hold" for a day with my name on it while I decide. The price they're offering it for is $1400 (about $250 off the used price tag)...I think that's a decent price (I haven't researched yet, but will soon.) Thoughts? It appeared to be pretty much spotless, and I know those wide necks are rare since this is the first time I've ever seen one.

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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I always had the opinion that Thumbs and Infinity's are the best basses on Warwick's bunch.

 

 

 

www.myspace.com/davidbassportugal

 

"And then the magical unicorn will come prancing down the rainbow and we'll all join hands for a rousing chorus of Kumbaya." - by davio

 

 

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You know what? Go get it! :P Plus it should be female, so its a her :P

 

He he...would be adding another wild brunette to my harem! :cool:

 

I've researched some pricing, and looks like these sell for about $2300-2400 new (although I couldn't find a wide neck online), and typical used price appears to be around $1100-1300 (between Blue Book and Ebay), so their "special price for me" is a little on the high side. However, none of these prices reflect the wide neck. Plus, versus buying something that I can't play first and can't return within 30 days if I choose to...well, that's part of what the markup buys I suppose. Maybe I can get them to throw in a free hard case (comes with bag) or some other valuable to sweeten the deal.

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Man, that's a SWEET price. I requested a catalog from Warwick months ago, and here are their MSRP's for the 5-string BO Thumbs, regular neck and wide:

 

reg $2949

wide $3299

 

If that were me, and it were fretless, and security followed me home from the punishment that would ensue after bringing another instrument in the house, I'd get it. LOL

[Carvin] XB76WF - All Walnut 6-string fretless

[schecter] Stiletto Studio 5 Fretless | Stiletto Elite 5

[Ampeg] SVT3-Pro | SVT-410HLF

 

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Well, I negotiated another $100 off of their already "special" price, and came home with the Thumb. Oh yeah! And yes, I believe I did get a pretty killer price on it...I can't find a scratch on it, I can't even tell it from a brand new one.

 

One immediate observation...this Warwick sounds remarkably similar to my Tobias. What a shock there, eh? The dynamics for slap are a little different...haven't quite tuned my ear to the difference yet but...I think the Tobias sounds a little more open while the Warwick sounds a little more compressed (not positive yet though). I haven't compared it to my Stingray5 or G&L L-2500 yet, but will shortly. (Those both might very well go on the for-sale block now...I really don't *need* 4 fretted basses!) Basses with killer lo-mid punch and really good articulation seem to be my taste nowadays, I guess. It's a little neck-heavy (to be expected given the wide neck, I suppose), but a wide strap seems to make that manageable...we'll see. Regardless, I've got 30-days to give it an intimate audition...Sam Ash has a 30-day return policy, even for used gear...somehow I doubt I'll be returning it though!

 

One thing I notice...I can't clearly hear the growl in either the Warwick nor the Tobias all that well with my rig. Hmmm...it jumped right out at me at the store (on both of them, actually). BMax -> QSC-PLX3002 -> Acme LowB4...maybe it's just too flat? I dialed in about 3db boost (small Q) at 250Hz...there's the growl! Not quite deep enough now, but 3db boost at 100Hz (also small Q) did the trick. Hmmm...I usually keep my EQ entirely flat, maybe it's time to start actually using all these blasted knobs I have!

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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'Tis the season for gift giving, but it is nice to see people treating themselves every now and again :)

 

Enjoy it!

 

Well, it's been a REALLY tough year for me...challenge after challenge after challenge. I've licked 'em all, and I figured I'd reward myself for some successes. So, I definitely will enjoy it! Thx!

 

Another nice feature that I forgot to mention...you can bypass the onboard preamp by pulling out the volume knob (so apparently the MEC pickups are passive). The nice part: the bass sounds *almost* exactly the same in passive mode vs. active with EQ flat, and there's no output drop from active to passive. I like that feature, and will probably use it quite a bit, even if the battery ain't dead! I really detest when there's a huge change in tone and/or output level between passive and active (ie. the Carvin BB-5 fretless I had for a while).

 

Also, this guy has the Warwick Adjust-a-nut on it...been wanting to put something like that on my Tobias.

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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I'm jealous! If you visit the warwick message board, Thumb's are one of the most talked about basses on there. I hope someday to join that rank hehe.

 

Glad you are digging the bass. Definitely need some pictures and some sound clips. But yea, the only bad thing I've ever heard about Thumb's is that they are are neck heavy, especially the ones being made the past couple of decades... again, just what I've read from various Thumb players.

[Carvin] XB76WF - All Walnut 6-string fretless

[schecter] Stiletto Studio 5 Fretless | Stiletto Elite 5

[Ampeg] SVT3-Pro | SVT-410HLF

 

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Nice buy! :D

 

Congratulations!

 

I love my Bubinga Corvette! Warwicks are great.

 

After a year with it as my only bass - I must say I'm still not 100% sold on the neck profile, but I love everything else about it.

 

:thu:

 

Another nice feature that I forgot to mention...you can bypass the onboard preamp by pulling out the volume knob (so apparently the MEC pickups are passive). The nice part: the bass sounds *almost* exactly the same in passive mode vs. active with EQ flat, and there's no output drop from active to passive. I like that feature, and will probably use it quite a bit, even if the battery ain't dead! I really detest when there's a huge change in tone and/or output level between passive and active (ie. the Carvin BB-5 fretless I had for a while).

 

RE: the push pull pot - if the pups have silver writing and say Dynamic Correction - they're passive. If the MEC logo is gold, they're active.

 

You can confirm this by looking in the control cavity - if there is a red wire coming from each pup cavity, the pups are active - if there is only a shielded single core white wire they're passive.

 

Anywho - the push pull is not a true active passive switch (although it's often sold as such) with the Active pups obviously. If the battery dies - the whole bass dies.

 

Actually - I'm yet to test the push pull switch with passive pups - it may not even be a true active passive switch then - it may simply be an EQ bypass, still engaging the preamp (I'm afraid I can't test it - I've ripped out all of the on board electronics and gone totally passive with some Bartolinis).

 

That would certainly explain the common report that output is identical with the pot pulled in or out, and that the tone is the same as with the on board EQ set flat.

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RE: the push pull pot - if the pups have silver writing and say Dynamic Correction - they're passive. If the MEC logo is gold, they're active.

 

You can confirm this by looking in the control cavity - if there is a red wire coming from each pup cavity, the pups are active - if there is only a shielded single core white wire they're passive.

 

Anywho - the push pull is not a true active passive switch (although it's often sold as such) with the Active pups obviously. If the battery dies - the whole bass dies.

 

Actually - I'm yet to test the push pull switch with passive pups - it may not even be a true active passive switch then - it may simply be an EQ bypass, still engaging the preamp (I'm afraid I can't test it - I've ripped out all of the on board electronics and gone totally passive with some Bartolinis).

 

That would certainly explain the common report that output is identical with the pot pulled in or out, and that the tone is the same as with the on board EQ set flat.

 

Ah...thanks for the explanation. The pickups do have the gold lettering. I'll take the battery out, put it in bypass mode and see if I get any sound! :freak: I also need to see if I can find a downloadable owner's manual for this guy.

 

Man...it sure seems like this guy would balance much better and neck-dive less if the strap button on the bridge side was moved up maybe an inch or two...hmmm, I think I saw a thread about this before...lemme dig a little...

 

I will post some pics and probably a clip soon...

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Man...it sure seems like this guy would balance much better and neck-dive less if the strap button on the bridge side was moved up maybe an inch or two...hmmm, I think I saw a thread about this before...lemme dig a little...

 

I will post some pics and probably a clip soon...

 

Dave

 

I moved the strap button on my old Rockbass Fretless Corvette up a little a while back - it helped a little - but obviously left a hole ;)

 

My current Warwick Corvette (bubinga, Ovangkol neck, Wenge board) dives a little - and I've found that a nice wide strap is more helpful ;) And much less invasive.

 

:D

 

I can't wait to see some pics of your new fish!

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Well, if this is a keeper (and I believe it is), I'm not opposed to doing to some minor mods, like moving the strap button on the bridge side, I can fill the hole easily. Also, it occurred to me that if the strap button on the "thumb" (the horn) were positioned a little further around the radius of the horn (so that the strap sort of has to wrap around the horn just a little), that would also have a tendency to pull the neck up (as the strap tries to unroll...if you can visualize what I'm saying here).

 

I've lowered the action a bit (lowered the bridge saddles and a minor truss rod tweak)...might need a few more tweaks, but I've got the action low enough that it "barks" easily...nice. I also realized while adjusting the saddles that they move side-to-side, so the string spacing is adjustable too...cool! I've widened the string spacing just a bit...awesome!

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Yes - the Warwick Bridge is very nice isn't it ;) Infinitely adjustable. I use a teeny dot of clear nail polish to prevent the myriad of tiny allen grub screws from loosening.

 

:thu:

 

I hear ya about the strap button holes ;) I just didn't find it as effective as I thought it might be when I did it on my old Corvette. Completely different bass though - that one had an Alder body and a Maple neck.

 

Another thing I found helpful is regarding the strap locks. Does yours have the Warwick Straplocks?

 

If so - you'll notice they extend the connection point of the strap out maybe 3/4" or so from the horn and the body...Extending the strap fixing on the horn side is helpful, but counterproductive on the bridge end - so I use the strap lock on the horn (effectively lengthening the horn), but have replaced the strap lock on the bridge side with a regular black strap button, bringing the strap closer to the body.

 

I find this helps the balance.

 

:thu:

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Overall, Warwicks don't get me too excited. Getz has a nice one, and Willie mentioned music-man's fretless. I don't know how to comment on that bass - it's in a class by itself.

 

What kind of wood(s) is it made of? Ovangkol? Bubinga?

 

Best of luck with it - though it doesn't really exist without pics.

 

Tom

www.stoneflyrocks.com

Acoustic Color

 

Be practical as well as generous in your ideals. Keep your eyes on the stars and keep your feet on the ground. - Theodore Roosevelt

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Wow...I just discovered that the whole bridge height is adjustable as well as the height of each individual saddle. Good gravy...not to mention it has the brass Adjust-a-nut which allows individual string height adjustment at the nut as well.

 

I'll have to play through my rig some more tomorrow to check my setup, but I've got the action on this monster just crazy low...and there's still very little buzzing (ie. controllable buzzing). If I pluck very lightly, it sounds warm...if I pluck even remotely aggressively, it barks like crazy...very nice!

 

The woods...I'm not sure (and I'll post a pic soon...my wife's digital camera is in need of some service). The front is a lighter colored wood with a striped grain (Ovankal I think?), the back is a little lighter colored with a similar grain, the neck is a dark unfinished wood (maybe wenge?), and I believe the fretboard is figured maple...hardware and headstock are black. The body is finished in wax as I understand it, and the neck and fretboard are unfinished. I'll post a pic as soon as I can, and maybe you guys can help me identify the woods with more certainty.

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Indeed - the entire bridge is adjustable in height in addition to each saddle. I like to get the saddle contour aligned with the fingerboard radius, and rough height set, then lock 'em down with grub screws and aforementioned clear nail poish and fine tune the height by adjusting the whole bridge.

 

By the description of those timbers it sounds beaut!

 

We need PICS!

 

:D

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OK, folks...as promised, here's some pics:

 

http://www.ipass.net/davesisk/music/pics/Warwick_ThumbBO_5string_front.JPG

 

http://www.ipass.net/davesisk/music/pics/Warwick_ThumbBO_5string_closeup.JPG

 

http://www.ipass.net/davesisk/music/pics/Warwick_ThumbBO_5string_back.JPG

 

What do you think these woods are? The neck may be bubinga or wenge (I'm thinking bubinga). I *think* the front is ovankal, but not sure. Not sure what the back is either, but I believe the fretboard is maple (not positive about that either, but sure looks like maple).

 

That neck is wide...20mm string spacing if the saddles are centered in their slots...I'm really liking the wider string spacing.

 

I've compared this to the Tobias soundwise...a couple differences I notice, though. The Warwick is just a little low-shy compared to the Tobias (and the Tobias has thinner guage strings). The B-string on the Tobias has always sounded dark, regardless of what string brands I've used (never tried thinner gauge than a 130 though)...the B-string on the Warwick is very bright (it feels like a 125 maybe, but I haven't measured it...could that be the difference in brightness? I'm thinking it's something about the bass and NOT the strings though...maybe the mass of the necks? They are both 34" scales). The B-string difference really strikes me...any thoughts?

 

Dave

 

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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