Gary75 Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 As you may have seen in my other posts, I decided to pull the manuals to remove the foam and give it a 50 year MOT whilst they were out. Foams out ð So I"m now onto replacing the up/down felts. Now at some time liquid has got in. I was wondering if you guys would recommend painting rust converter on? [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outkaster Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Wes would be a good one to ask or Todd. Quote "Danny, ci manchi a tutti. La E-Street Band non e' la stessa senza di te. Riposa in pace, fratello" noblevibes.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesG Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 What a mess! The key channels themselves aren't a big deal as long as the rust is on the inside. Outside rust should be removed to prevent key-to-key rubbing. It's not a big deal because better keys are readily available from scrapped M3s. The metal on the manuals themselves is zinc-plated steel. The zinc forms not only a physical barrier between the atmosphere and the rust, but it also acts electrochemically to retard the growth of nearby steel. Using a rust converter will further damage the zinc layer, but at least will turn red iron oxide (cancer) into black iron oxide (stable). My preference is to use mechanical means to the remove as much rust as possible without damaging the zinc layer, then converting what's left by meticulously brushing it on with a paint brush and wiping away as soon as the reaction has slowed. Then I paint with a cold galvanizing paint which is 99% zinc, to restore as much of the factory protection as I can. Wes Quote Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3 Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9 Roland: VR-09, RD-800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Thanks for the information. I did use a zinc spray on the ends of the manual covers where it had corroded slightly I just need to decide if I"m going to remove the keys and paint the entire floor of the manual or just along the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Productive day but need to switch off now and listen to some Eric The Actor! Decided to pull all the keys [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 Things may look ok on the outside...... Still, despite this it"s never produced any issues. I suspect a pint has gone down there at some point. It looks a mess but it"s superficial, I"ll clean it up with fibreglass pens and paint. You know I had just intended this to be a foam job and spruce up. Ah well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outkaster Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 That's the thing with Hammonds and to some extent Leslie Speakers ( I know as I have had a few really bad ones in the last year)..they all need tons of maintenance. True they were engineered well but things wear out. Quote "Danny, ci manchi a tutti. La E-Street Band non e' la stessa senza di te. Riposa in pace, fratello" noblevibes.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuruPrionz Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 Old houses, old tube amps, old cars, old Hammonds. You don't own them. They own you. Quote It took a chunk of my life to get here and I am still not sure where "here" is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesG Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 Jesus. That needs serious attention if that organ's going to last another 20 years. Quote Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3 Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9 Roland: VR-09, RD-800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDoe Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 Old houses, old tube amps, old cars, old Hammonds. You don't own them. They own you. When you´re done with that old car/ tube amp/ Hammond/... you´re just gonna sit back and enjoy it.....until next object appears!! Quote "This is my rig, and if you don´t like it....well, I have others!" "Think positive...there's always something to complain about!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 Dealing with rust on a 90s Ford, I already have a lot in my arsenal to sort it. Ordered some Bilt Hamber Deox Gel. You brush it on, cover the area and it removes the rust in hours. Far quicker than fibreglass pencilling the lot off. I"ll brush zinc paint on after it"s all prepped. I bet theirs an awful lot of organs had a drink spilled down it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesG Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 That rust is way more than a few drinks. I'm thinking leaking ceiling. Quote Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3 Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9 Roland: VR-09, RD-800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 It had crossed my mind as the top of the organ has a couple of ripples on the wood surface indicating long term dripping. Like I say, it"s never shown as a problem, the preset keys weren"t crusty on pressing, so it just looks like the liquid has lay in the floor of the manual and not affected anything other than the metal. It"ll be as good as new once I"m done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesG Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Nice! It's good when a rusty one goes a "car guy". That's how I learned to deal with rust, too. Quote Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3 Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9 Roland: VR-09, RD-800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 Sorted all the rust, it was purely surface, given it a coat of cold galvanising zinc. May do a second coat. I"m between this and sorting the fuel lines on my OHs car. I even did the fuel tank whilst I was in paint mode! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Very nice. Looks 1000% better! Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 Thanks! Right, I"ve taken the contact cover off to do the busbars. I currently have TWG busbar lube and Deoxit D5. I read somewhere that busbar lube can cake up and dry up. What are you guys doing method wise with cleaning? Outkaster, mate-stubb, B3Nut etc I"m still documenting my refurb An hour ago [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 You don't necessarily need to remove that cover to service the bus bars. On the side of each manual is a little plate that allows you to slide each bar completely out the side (manuals must be out of the organ for this.) Check for breakages in the thin palladium wire on top of the bar. If you have none, lube it and carefully slide back in. If you have breakages in the wire, seek a replacement from a donor organ. When sliding the bars back in, the end can tend to catch every time you slide thru one of the slots. Be patient, but if one just refuses to go, then it is handy to have that top cover off so you can reach in with hemostats or something and encourage things. Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 As for what lube to use, I haven't done this procedure for 40 years. Back then I think there was a bus bar lube I ordered from Goff or somewhere. It was a white conductive grease. Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 I wanted to pre-empt any inserting issue with the bus bars by taking the cover off, and also just to check the underside, especially at the left corner where it was rusted. Indeed, there is mild corrosion o the underside of the cover, so that"s a job tomorrow. I"ve put cling-film over contact box whilst I"m sorting the cover and busbars, just to keep the dust out. Mine is a 1973 organ with the square palladium wire busbar. According to B3Nut from a post a while ago in the Organ forum, he thinks the later busbar types would benefit from a coat of lube. I was just going to isopropyl the busbars then use Deoxit Gold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Replaced the felt that sits at the back of cover and lubed busbars, however...... One of them is broken, possibly by myself either in cleaning or feeding. Disappointing, but I"m not beating myself up too much over it. It"s still come a long way from where I started regardless. Willing to pay good money for a couple of good ones if anyone can help me out at some point, PM me. Other than that, it"s keeping me occupied indoors at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuruPrionz Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 You've done an amazing job so far!!!! Quote It took a chunk of my life to get here and I am still not sure where "here" is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Have you tried Tonewheel General or BB Organ for a donor bus bar? Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 I haven"t, I was unsure as to bother anyone during this period. I"ll shoot them an email tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 I'm seeing lots of FB posts from BB about keeping themselves busy rebuilding things. They would probably be happy to ship if they have one available. Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Cheers for that info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outkaster Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 Make sure you are on the Hammond technicians Facebook page. It's kind of not the best forum because you have to drill down into posts but a lot of us are on there and some really good information. Quote "Danny, ci manchi a tutti. La E-Street Band non e' la stessa senza di te. Riposa in pace, fratello" noblevibes.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 Have you tried Tonewheel General or BB Organ for a donor bus bar? Thanks mate_stubb for the heads up, sorted some from Bill Brown and they are on the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 I"ve also purchased a Mk2 ZD1 overdrive unit for the cheekblock. Pictures soon as it arrives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary75 Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 Make sure you are on the Hammond technicians Facebook page. It's kind of not the best forum because you have to drill down into posts but a lot of us are on there and some really good information. I"m not on Facebook, but there"s lots of info and helpful people outside of it to get the job done. In fact the hard works done in terms of foam/rust removal Placing keys loosely in, I won"t tighten up until fascia is back on with new upfelts in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.