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Originally posted by myles111:

....If you are ever in my area, feel free to bring in any tubes from your vendor that you may or may not trust....[/QB]

That's a great offer Miles. Unfortunately you're in LA and I'm in South Australia so I don't get to your area much. :P

Thanks.

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Originally posted by snoz65:

Originally posted by myles111:

....If you are ever in my area, feel free to bring in any tubes from your vendor that you may or may not trust....
That's a great offer Miles. Unfortunately you're in LA and I'm in South Australia so I don't get to your area much. :P

Thanks.[/QB]

 

snoz65 .....

 

Darn ....

 

When I was at a company called Infonet, we had offices in Sydney and Melbourne ... at least Melbourne may have been closer. I always had my tools with me.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Miles,

 

I got the KT-66HP's and the coke bottle 6L6's from GT yesterday and I have to say my amp has never sounded so good. Through your help I now have a JAN 5751 pre-amp a matched 12AT'7 phase inverter and some good sounding power tubes.

 

My question is even after switching and rebiasing a couple of times I'm not totally convinced which type I like. I'm leaning toward the KT's but also liked the sound of the coke bottles. I am planning on using this amp in a 3 hour show 2 nights per week plus a 2 hour weekly band practice how long can I expect the coke bottles to last compared to the KT's

 

Also is the 5U4GB a important tube as far as your tone. I currently have a Sovtek in that I bought about 5 years ago that has hardly any playing time on it. According to a old tube tester I have it is reading well up in the OK section of the needle range.

 

Thank's for your time, and you have truly helped this guitarist sound better with one amp, and when I get the money I'll be bugging you about several more.

 

Blue Note.

When in doubt, BEND IT!!!
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Originally posted by Blue Note:

Miles,

 

I got the KT-66HP's and the coke bottle 6L6's from GT yesterday and I have to say my amp has never sounded so good. Through your help I now have a JAN 5751 pre-amp a matched 12AT'7 phase inverter and some good sounding power tubes.

 

My question is even after switching and rebiasing a couple of times I'm not totally convinced which type I like. I'm leaning toward the KT's but also liked the sound of the coke bottles. I am planning on using this amp in a 3 hour show 2 nights per week plus a 2 hour weekly band practice how long can I expect the coke bottles to last compared to the KT's

 

Also is the 5U4GB a important tube as far as your tone. I currently have a Sovtek in that I bought about 5 years ago that has hardly any playing time on it. According to a old tube tester I have it is reading well up in the OK section of the needle range.

 

Thank's for your time, and you have truly helped this guitarist sound better with one amp, and when I get the money I'll be bugging you about several more.

 

Blue Note.

Blue Note ...

 

I am glad your amp is sounding great. It is too bad we can't have some sort of a "before and after" switch on the amp as that would be a blast.

 

Your question on which tube is an ongoing problem for many folks. In my Victoria Deluxe, I am continually swapping out V2, as some tubes are super for one sound, while I choose others for another. In my Black Deluxe Reverb, I swap the 6V6's too all the time, and in V2 (I only use the vibrato channel), I keep an ECC83, 7025, and 12AX7C depending on what I want to play. It can get a little crazy.

 

The 6L6CB's are very soft vacuum tubes, and not nearly as strong as the KT-66HP's, so for a smaller venue, and sort of a blues sort of deal, they are amazing.

 

The CB's, if biased at about 50%-55% of ID, with your schedule, in a Fender type of amp playing at about 4, will last about a year. At that time though, if you rebias them (I call this chasing the bias), as it will have changed due to tube wear, you can get another 3 or so months out of them.

 

The rectifier is not part of the tone stage, but will impact voltages in the amp and a bit of the feel. Rectifiers don't really wear out ... they work or don't. The Sovtek rectifier is a sturdy beast, and more reliable than the older Chinese ones from the past, such as the ones that are stock in Mesa Rectifier series amps. Those are big and pretty, but have a very high failure rate. Your rectifier could last 10 or more years. Save your money and just leave it in there.

 

Happy playing.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hey Myles...I just bought a Boss DR-660 (drum machine) off ebay and it didn't come with an owner's manual. Do you have and email adress for this company or perhaps know where I can get an owner's manual...?

Thanks for any help.

Sean

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Originally posted by Sean Ryan:

Hey Myles...I just bought a Boss DR-660 (drum machine) off ebay and it didn't come with an owner's manual. Do you have and email adress for this company or perhaps know where I can get an owner's manual...?

Thanks for any help.

Sean

Sean,

 

I don't have their address, but just try Yahoo for their website, and from there you should be able to get customer service.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hi Myles,

 

I have Sovtek el34s in my TBR-1M now. I inherited 4 National Electronics NL 6CA7/EL34s, made in E. Germany, with the amp. Have you heard of these? Are they any good? They are appearantly new, from the looks of the pins. On the base of each is scratched 50, 51, 51, 51 respectively. The Soveteks are 10 years old according to the man who sold me the amp. It makes a bit of a buzzing noise when bass notes are held, and I think I read this may indicate a power tube problem. Are these Natl Electronics something I can swap now and subsequently check the bias (I tried to talk to Rivera today to find out how, but they haven't started answering the phone again yet after NAMM), or would you recommend against this. I don't have any qualified techs near.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Brian

Everything I know is wrong.

 

Brian White

www.whitesinger.com

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Originally posted by milobender:

Hi Myles,

 

I have Sovtek el34s in my TBR-1M now. I inherited 4 National Electronics NL 6CA7/EL34s, made in E. Germany, with the amp. Have you heard of these? Are they any good? They are appearantly new, from the looks of the pins. On the base of each is scratched 50, 51, 51, 51 respectively. The Soveteks are 10 years old according to the man who sold me the amp. It makes a bit of a buzzing noise when bass notes are held, and I think I read this may indicate a power tube problem. Are these Natl Electronics something I can swap now and subsequently check the bias (I tried to talk to Rivera today to find out how, but they haven't started answering the phone again yet after NAMM), or would you recommend against this. I don't have any qualified techs near.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Brian

milobender .... ( Brian ) ...

 

10 years on Sovtek EL-34's is 9 years too long in that amp. That amp gets 60-70 watts out of a duet, and these tubes are pushed hard. I guess the original hand picked Svetlana's that came in the amp were gone when you got it. The Sovteks also are perhaps the least sonically ideal tube in that amp to boot.

 

The National's are super tubes, and are even stronger than the normal EL-34's. But ... you would need to set the bias properly. You also could NOT use the Rivera manual values where -voltage values are given, as these are not the same as generic EL-34's. You need to have this set using current draw.

 

This can be done with any available bias tool, bias probe, bias king, bias rite, etc. There are two bias adjust pots on the underside of the chassis by removing the bottom cover.

 

If you give me a call at 1-800-459-5687 when you have some sort of bias tool in hand and are ready to get to work (ten minutes), I will step you though this on the phone.

 

Our own bias kits are in the area at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Thanks alot Myles,

 

I'd really appreciate that, and I'm looking forward to being able to service the amp my self. What hours/days are you available? Do you recommend the bias tools, or can I simply use a multimeter? If you think the bias tool is necessary I'll get one coming right away, as I am really excited with this amp.

 

Thanks again,

 

Brian

 

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by milobender:

Hi Myles,

 

I have Sovtek el34s in my TBR-1M now. I inherited 4 National Electronics NL 6CA7/EL34s, made in E. Germany, with the amp. Have you heard of these? Are they any good? They are appearantly new, from the looks of the pins. On the base of each is scratched 50, 51, 51, 51 respectively. The Soveteks are 10 years old according to the man who sold me the amp. It makes a bit of a buzzing noise when bass notes are held, and I think I read this may indicate a power tube problem. Are these Natl Electronics something I can swap now and subsequently check the bias (I tried to talk to Rivera today to find out how, but they haven't started answering the phone again yet after NAMM), or would you recommend against this. I don't have any qualified techs near.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Brian

milobender .... ( Brian ) ...

 

10 years on Sovtek EL-34's is 9 years too long in that amp. That amp gets 60-70 watts out of a duet, and these tubes are pushed hard. I guess the original hand picked Svetlana's that came in the amp were gone when you got it. The Sovteks also are perhaps the least sonically ideal tube in that amp to boot.

 

The National's are super tubes, and are even stronger than the normal EL-34's. But ... you would need to set the bias properly. You also could NOT use the Rivera manual values where -voltage values are given, as these are not the same as generic EL-34's. You need to have this set using current draw.

 

This can be done with any available bias tool, bias probe, bias king, bias rite, etc. There are two bias adjust pots on the underside of the chassis by removing the bottom cover.

 

If you give me a call at 1-800-459-5687 when you have some sort of bias tool in hand and are ready to get to work (ten minutes), I will step you though this on the phone.

 

Our own bias kits are in the area at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

Everything I know is wrong.

 

Brian White

www.whitesinger.com

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Myles -

 

I finally made my decision and had the winning bid on an Ampeg Reverberocket reissue with 2 12" speakers, 2x 6L6 and 3 12AX7's. I hope I made a good choice.

I figure I will need to change the tubes to a new set. I was wondering if you had some recommendations. I might also consider trying the yellowjackets I have after I hear how it sounds with the regular tubes (I like the EL-84's). Finally, I was also thinking of calling Bob at Eurotubes who I have dealt with before and has excellent service, prices and tubes. WHat do you think?

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Originally posted by milobender:

Thanks alot Myles,

 

I'd really appreciate that, and I'm looking forward to being able to service the amp my self. What hours/days are you available? Do you recommend the bias tools, or can I simply use a multimeter? If you think the bias tool is necessary I'll get one coming right away, as I am really excited with this amp.

 

Thanks again,

 

Brian

 

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by milobender:

Hi Myles,

 

I have Sovtek el34s in my TBR-1M now. I inherited 4 National Electronics NL 6CA7/EL34s, made in E. Germany, with the amp. Have you heard of these? Are they any good? They are appearantly new, from the looks of the pins. On the base of each is scratched 50, 51, 51, 51 respectively. The Soveteks are 10 years old according to the man who sold me the amp. It makes a bit of a buzzing noise when bass notes are held, and I think I read this may indicate a power tube problem. Are these Natl Electronics something I can swap now and subsequently check the bias (I tried to talk to Rivera today to find out how, but they haven't started answering the phone again yet after NAMM), or would you recommend against this. I don't have any qualified techs near.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Brian

milobender .... ( Brian ) ...

 

10 years on Sovtek EL-34's is 9 years too long in that amp. That amp gets 60-70 watts out of a duet, and these tubes are pushed hard. I guess the original hand picked Svetlana's that came in the amp were gone when you got it. The Sovteks also are perhaps the least sonically ideal tube in that amp to boot.

 

The National's are super tubes, and are even stronger than the normal EL-34's. But ... you would need to set the bias properly. You also could NOT use the Rivera manual values where -voltage values are given, as these are not the same as generic EL-34's. You need to have this set using current draw.

 

This can be done with any available bias tool, bias probe, bias king, bias rite, etc. There are two bias adjust pots on the underside of the chassis by removing the bottom cover.

 

If you give me a call at 1-800-459-5687 when you have some sort of bias tool in hand and are ready to get to work (ten minutes), I will step you though this on the phone.

 

Our own bias kits are in the area at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

Brian,

 

You can generally call me at GT toll free at 1-800-459-5687 during normal weekdays. I get in here about 7:30am pst.

 

I use the GT bias tool as it does not have a meter built in, so is more reliable, and fits in a tool box more easily. I also think most folks already have meters, or should, as these are needed to measure other amp aspects. I have GT bias tools in each toolbox, just like a phillips head screwdriver.

 

You cannot just use a multi-meter in most cases, as there is a need to covert amps to volts in a 1 to 1 relationship and measure current inline. That is the reason for the bias tools. There is a way to solder a resistor across the tube socket, and make something of a permanent bias tool test point, but this cannot be moved from amp to amp.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by sgguitarzz:

Myles -

 

I finally made my decision and had the winning bid on an Ampeg Reverberocket reissue with 2 12" speakers, 2x 6L6 and 3 12AX7's. I hope I made a good choice.

I figure I will need to change the tubes to a new set. I was wondering if you had some recommendations. I might also consider trying the yellowjackets I have after I hear how it sounds with the regular tubes (I like the EL-84's). Finally, I was also thinking of calling Bob at Eurotubes who I have dealt with before and has excellent service, prices and tubes. WHat do you think?

sgguitarzz ....

 

First off, great amps. The originals or the reissues.

 

These are loud amps, very strong. Get rid of the stock preamp tubes in V1 at the least, and go for a good tube there. Bob at Eurotubes is a super guy, and I send a lot of my clients to him, but he is a JJ dealer, and the JJ ECC83 or 12AX7 is not the best choice in your amp, and the 6L6S is way to mid-range pushed.

 

The THD yellow jackets would work great in this amp, and tone it down so you could play smaller venues and make studio mics happier.

 

If this were my amp:

 

V1 -

 

I'd call Charlie Kittleson at Vacuum Tube Valley and see if he has any of these left in stock. He is at www.vacuumtube.com

 

From his website: RCA 12AX7 NOS 1950s-60s NIB For excellent tone and reliability in guitar amps, the RCA 12AX7 is awesome. These are tested for extremely low noise and balanced sections. Very hard to find now and these are in original boxes. $85 each

 

These may seem pricy, but they will last over 20,000 hours easy, and sound better each and every hour.

 

This is also a great tube from VTV in that amp - RCA 7025/12AX7 NOS 1960s The tube originally used in Black Face Fenders and other guitar amps in the 1960s. Low noise and low microphonic 12AX7 type. Excellent tone and reliability. One of the very best for guitar amps or hifi applications calling for a sweet-sounding and quiet 12AX7. Super selected Platinum low noise. $75 each

 

(these are both very quiet, and in the reissue with the board layout, drop the background noise a lot).

 

V2 - also from VTV -

JAN/Philips 12AX7WA A great sounding audio and guitar tube for a bargain price. These tubes are well made and have a smooth, musical sound. Don't wait too long, these are disappearing fast! $25.00 each

 

V3 - the phase inverter / driver. I also use MPI's, and have written a ton on this subject (some of it on my website still). To keep the same gain structure as stock: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723 If you want less gain, more clean headroom, and more clarity, then the AT7 version at http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1722

 

These MPI's are matched on a curve tracer, more involved than a current match or static idle match. They are swept from 0-250 plate volts for their risetime component data to match.

 

Output tubes -

 

If you have a TON of money - from VTV - RCA/Tung Sol 5881 1960s-70s Actually a Tung-Sol with an RCA label and box. The ultimate for Fender tweed amps and other vintage amps as well as original equipment in many 1950s tube hi-fi amps. $75 each or $200 matched pairs

 

(magic in your amp) Very long life.

 

For less but great for 6L6's too - GE 5881 1960s NOS Excellent for guitar amps, especially Tweed and boutique amps. Sweet, rich and punchy for awesome tone. $125/matched pair

 

For new 6L6's but still not cheap, our own USA 6L6GE - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1713 -- lots of happy folks at NAMM on this tube. Some reviews and production shots (bad ones I did) are from the links at the bottom of the website.

 

Hope this helped some.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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==================================================

==================================================

 

sgguitarzz ....

 

First off, great amps. The originals or the reissues.

 

These are loud amps, very strong. Get rid of the stock preamp tubes in V1 at the least, and go for a good tube there. Bob at Eurotubes is a super guy, and I send a lot of my clients to him, but he is a JJ dealer, and the JJ ECC83 or 12AX7 is not the best choice in your amp, and the 6L6S is way to mid-range pushed.

 

The THD yellow jackets would work great in this amp, and tone it down so you could play smaller venues and make studio mics happier.

 

If this were my amp:

 

V1 -

 

I'd call Charlie Kittleson at Vacuum Tube Valley and see if he has any of these left in stock. He is at www.vacuumtube.com

 

From his website: RCA 12AX7 NOS 1950s-60s NIB For excellent tone and reliability in guitar amps, the RCA 12AX7 is awesome. These are tested for extremely low noise and balanced sections. Very hard to find now and these are in original boxes. $85 each

 

These may seem pricy, but they will last over 20,000 hours easy, and sound better each and every hour.

 

This is also a great tube from VTV in that amp - RCA 7025/12AX7 NOS 1960s The tube originally used in Black Face Fenders and other guitar amps in the 1960s. Low noise and low microphonic 12AX7 type. Excellent tone and reliability. One of the very best for guitar amps or hifi applications calling for a sweet-sounding and quiet 12AX7. Super selected Platinum low noise. $75 each

 

(these are both very quiet, and in the reissue with the board layout, drop the background noise a lot).

 

V2 - also from VTV -

JAN/Philips 12AX7WA A great sounding audio and guitar tube for a bargain price. These tubes are well made and have a smooth, musical sound. Don't wait too long, these are disappearing fast! $25.00 each

 

V3 - the phase inverter / driver. I also use MPI's, and have written a ton on this subject (some of it on my website still). To keep the same gain structure as stock: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723 If you want less gain, more clean headroom, and more clarity, then the AT7 version at http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1722

 

These MPI's are matched on a curve tracer, more involved than a current match or static idle match. They are swept from 0-250 plate volts for their risetime component data to match.

 

Output tubes -

 

If you have a TON of money - from VTV - RCA/Tung Sol 5881 1960s-70s Actually a Tung-Sol with an RCA label and box. The ultimate for Fender tweed amps and other vintage amps as well as original equipment in many 1950s tube hi-fi amps. $75 each or $200 matched pairs

 

(magic in your amp) Very long life.

 

For less but great for 6L6's too - GE 5881 1960s NOS Excellent for guitar amps, especially Tweed and boutique amps. Sweet, rich and punchy for awesome tone. $125/matched pair

 

For new 6L6's but still not cheap, our own USA 6L6GE - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1713 -- lots of happy folks at NAMM on this tube. Some reviews and production shots (bad ones I did) are from the links at the bottom of the website.

 

Hope this helped some.

 

==================================================

==================================================

 

Thanks for the great info. I am happy you like the amp as that makes me more confident I made the right decision. I got it for $400 + shipping so I think I got a good deal. I am not sure I can do all you recommended right away but I will try. I do think I will try the YJ as I like that sound, it will be better in the small places we play, and I will not have to worry about biasing (right?).

I have JJ EL-84's for the YJ now. I know they make good EL-84's so maybe I can use what I have or get new ones from Bob at Eurotubes or do you have a better suggestion?

I really do appreciate your help. Thank you.

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I play basic R&B, blues, rock and want a range from very clean to moderate distortion (similar to what you'd expect from a blackface Fender). I have a chance to reacquire an old Traynor YBA-1A amp that I bought it in college (circa 1973) for cheap. I've read that these are solid workmanlike amps that can be mod'd to yield an excellent basic amp. Any words of wisdom.
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Myles,

A friend of mine has a Peavey Classic 30, what tubes do you suggest for killer tone, when he has to re-tube? Also he is shopping for an amp to gig with at about 50 watts. What would you suggest new/used in the $500 range? He plays loud rock and roll. Thank you for your time and experience. :D

Can you own too many guitars????
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Hey Myles, do you know which Phrase/Loop sampler Keller Willams uses live. I have searched the Guitar Player/Acoustic Guitar Mag, archives as well as Google/Yahoo, and have had no luck.

 

Any leads would be helpfull.

 

Also, have you ever used the Boss Phrase sampling unit?

 

Thanks in advance.

Jotown:)

 

"It's all good: Except when it's Great"

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Hey Myles,

 

I blew out a tube on my DSL 100 Friday night at a gig. It was the second song and I didn't have a backup head :eek: so I ran direct and everthink was ok. My tech said it was the tube that runs the reverb section and that it was unusual. Have you heard of this before? The amp is only a month or two old and has been functioning great. Could it have been a bad tube from the factor?

 

I was running the head into a Crate 4ohm 4x12 (waiting for the marshall cab to ship) and have had no problems with it before.

 

Thanks for any info,

 

Kevin

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Myles,

 

I got the time over the weekend to install one of the matched set NOS RCA-6V6GTA's with gray plates that I got from Tube World in my Deluxe Reverb and was extremely pleased. I also finally chose the KT-66HP's over the coke bottle 6L6's in my Bantam Bass, after a few more times of swapping and re-biasing the KT's just seemed to stand above the other for me. In fact I eventually was surprised I had such a hard time deciding from the start.

 

My next project will be a silverface Champ, and Vibro Champ. I understand these are class A amps and I'm not sure how,(and if even needed) to bias one of these amps. I do not have a bias tool, I have been using a scope looking at the crossover notch.

 

Also what tubes would you recommend? Is the plate voltages a problem with these like the class AB 6V6 Fenders.

 

Thanks again for your time and knowledge.

When in doubt, BEND IT!!!
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Originally posted by sgguitarzz:

==================================================

==================================================

 

sgguitarzz ....

 

First off, great amps. The originals or the reissues.

 

These are loud amps, very strong. Get rid of the stock preamp tubes in V1 at the least, and go for a good tube there. Bob at Eurotubes is a super guy, and I send a lot of my clients to him, but he is a JJ dealer, and the JJ ECC83 or 12AX7 is not the best choice in your amp, and the 6L6S is way to mid-range pushed.

 

The THD yellow jackets would work great in this amp, and tone it down so you could play smaller venues and make studio mics happier.

 

If this were my amp:

 

V1 -

 

I'd call Charlie Kittleson at Vacuum Tube Valley and see if he has any of these left in stock. He is at www.vacuumtube.com

 

From his website: RCA 12AX7 NOS 1950s-60s NIB For excellent tone and reliability in guitar amps, the RCA 12AX7 is awesome. These are tested for extremely low noise and balanced sections. Very hard to find now and these are in original boxes. $85 each

 

These may seem pricy, but they will last over 20,000 hours easy, and sound better each and every hour.

 

This is also a great tube from VTV in that amp - RCA 7025/12AX7 NOS 1960s The tube originally used in Black Face Fenders and other guitar amps in the 1960s. Low noise and low microphonic 12AX7 type. Excellent tone and reliability. One of the very best for guitar amps or hifi applications calling for a sweet-sounding and quiet 12AX7. Super selected Platinum low noise. $75 each

 

(these are both very quiet, and in the reissue with the board layout, drop the background noise a lot).

 

V2 - also from VTV -

JAN/Philips 12AX7WA A great sounding audio and guitar tube for a bargain price. These tubes are well made and have a smooth, musical sound. Don't wait too long, these are disappearing fast! $25.00 each

 

V3 - the phase inverter / driver. I also use MPI's, and have written a ton on this subject (some of it on my website still). To keep the same gain structure as stock: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723 If you want less gain, more clean headroom, and more clarity, then the AT7 version at http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1722

 

These MPI's are matched on a curve tracer, more involved than a current match or static idle match. They are swept from 0-250 plate volts for their risetime component data to match.

 

Output tubes -

 

If you have a TON of money - from VTV - RCA/Tung Sol 5881 1960s-70s Actually a Tung-Sol with an RCA label and box. The ultimate for Fender tweed amps and other vintage amps as well as original equipment in many 1950s tube hi-fi amps. $75 each or $200 matched pairs

 

(magic in your amp) Very long life.

 

For less but great for 6L6's too - GE 5881 1960s NOS Excellent for guitar amps, especially Tweed and boutique amps. Sweet, rich and punchy for awesome tone. $125/matched pair

 

For new 6L6's but still not cheap, our own USA 6L6GE - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1713 -- lots of happy folks at NAMM on this tube. Some reviews and production shots (bad ones I did) are from the links at the bottom of the website.

 

Hope this helped some.

 

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Thanks for the great info. I am happy you like the amp as that makes me more confident I made the right decision. I got it for $400 + shipping so I think I got a good deal. I am not sure I can do all you recommended right away but I will try. I do think I will try the YJ as I like that sound, it will be better in the small places we play, and I will not have to worry about biasing (right?).

I have JJ EL-84's for the YJ now. I know they make good EL-84's so maybe I can use what I have or get new ones from Bob at Eurotubes or do you have a better suggestion?

I really do appreciate your help. Thank you.

sgguitarzz ........

 

Of the current EL-84's, the JJ's are the best made today.

 

If you want a dynamically matched set of these rather than a statically matched set, they are at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1216

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by tundrkys:

Myles, what do you knoe about this guy? web page

tundrkys ......

 

I think he may be one of my blueprinting clients, and if it is who I think it is, his photo is on my website at:

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/ludo.jpg

 

He is the guy standing with "Luke".

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by mjmclane:

I play basic R&B, blues, rock and want a range from very clean to moderate distortion (similar to what you'd expect from a blackface Fender). I have a chance to reacquire an old Traynor YBA-1A amp that I bought it in college (circa 1973) for cheap. I've read that these are solid workmanlike amps that can be mod'd to yield an excellent basic amp. Any words of wisdom.

mjmclane ........

 

These are good amps, and I have worked on a few of them. For a better take on these, I'd post something here asking for user's comments or look and see if there any any reviews on this amp on harmony central. Keep in mind though, on H-C, the reviews are generally pretty good, as we all like to think we made a good purchase, and tend to be be less than objective at times on new purchases.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by guittarzzan:

Hi, any ideas on what amps and gear were used to record Stone Temple Pilots Core album; or any links with the info?

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

 

I have no idea. Sorry I cannot help here.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by dondottcomm:

Hey Myles,What do you think of the Acousic amps{Knock off of Mesa Boogie markII}I think..Thanks for your time..

dondottcomm ...

 

I don't know ... have not seen them. Why would anybody want to knock off a Mk II when there are still plenty of them around?

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by pksdabombdj:

Myles,

A friend of mine has a Peavey Classic 30, what tubes do you suggest for killer tone, when he has to re-tube? Also he is shopping for an amp to gig with at about 50 watts. What would you suggest new/used in the $500 range? He plays loud rock and roll. Thank you for your time and experience. :D

pksdabombdj .........

 

V1 / V2 - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1587

 

V3 - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723

 

Power tubes in a #5 rating - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1687 if you want dynamically matched tubes.

 

Or, if static matching is good enough - www.eurotubes.com

 

His classic 30 with class A 30 watts will be as loud as most class A/B 50 watt amps. I'd need to know a lot more about his feature wants, etc., styles, etc.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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