Feel free to ask Myles

[Jamesian]

Myles, I have a 60-watt Boogie MarkIII, with the original tubes, that I've had since the mid-80's. It's had very light but regular use over the years and has never been roaded around. Although it continues to sound really good I've recently gotten interested in trying some different pre-amp tubes in V1. In order to get to V1 though, I had to remove one of the power tubes (Mesa STR 415) and in so doing, although I was careful with it, I managed to break off the big center pin at it's base. I was able to fit it back in place and re-seat the tube. I then warmed up the amp, powered it up, and it sounded fine.

However when I looked around back there is no blue glow in that tube. I assume the tube is inactive and plan on buying a new set, but the amp sounds fine, so the questions are 1. What is really happening here? 2. Can it run on one tube?

3. What might be the advantages/disadvantages of that?

An un-related question, the amp came with a spare pre-amp tube Mesa STR 12AX7-A (ECC83). Any thoughts on it's character and use? Thanks, and thanks also Myles for this thread, it's really valuable. Jim.

[sgguitarzz]

Thanks for your reply concerning the Sunn T50c and Reverend Hellhound. Would you know if the Sunn is the same amp as the new Fender Pro Tubes Pro. I know Fender made the Sunn and the features look virtually identical.

[macmax]

posted 01-12-2003 02:20 AM                         

 

Hi:

 

What would be the difference between a mesa spax7 and 12ax7 ecc83???

 

I mean, from what i know and from what i have tried the spax7 seems better noise reduction . I know they are both sovteks.

 

But i am wondering if mesa tests this tubes better than the 12ax7's or if it is the same, i need new tubes and i like the way they sound, but paying 10 more bucks for each is a bit upwards.I have the money thou and was just wondering if it is worth it having spax7's in the whole preamp chain?

I have two of them and i would like to know if it would be better to install all 6 spax7's as my preamp tubes or if mixing them with the 12ax7's is a good idea.

 

I recently bought some eh's , wich i did not like , they killed my clean and sound as if the amp had a blanket on it's front grill.

 

I know evilmeow likes them so i will be shipping 2 of them to him.

 

Thanks for your help, everyone else , please feel free to jump in and comment.

I am also known as warlock7 from the hc forum

 

Off topic

I think last year the nba handed the tittle to the lakers, David Stern and the officials should let the teams do the talking on the court and not fix these games.

 

Even thou i am a knicks fan i consider the kings to have won last's years championship.

I also have a friend that works for one of the networks u all know and he emailed me something at the time that i can't email to anyone, but he says everyone of the tv guys were ashan=med of how game six was called and some of the previous too.

 

Prediction for this year?

If the lakers get to the playoffs, everything will be orchestrated to make them the new champions again , hehhehhe, just to get some news and see if they can get the league out of it's misery, but we all know this will sink it a lot more into that same misery.

 

--------------------

Darwin=unix=mac=perfect

[Curly Dan]

Myles:

thanks for your column in general, and your "mission" to help all of us guitar players!

 

I have a '66 Bassman head & cab. The circuit is an AB165. I just got it back from my amp tech. It was pretty "sour" ghost-note wise - unplayable really, so he went through it, replacing one of the filtering caps, and actually doing several small things to improve dynamics and frequency response, and the amp sounds great.

 

I'm testing different preamp tubes to fine tune the amp, both NOS and newer tubes. The tube chart calls for:

7025 7025 7025 12AT7 6L6GC 6L6GC

I'm currently running:

JAN Phillips 12AX7WA

GE 7025

JJ ECC83S (for gain)

JJ ECC81 (balanced)

Phillips 6L6 WGC's

 

I've swapped new and NOS tubes in every slot looking for the right combination, and I'm certainly not done yet. (I have a small stash of new and old tubes.) The phase inverter is a matched one I got from Eurotubes that I'm testing against an NOS tube to see how much difference this makes, which I mentioned on that thread.

 

I have a few issues I'd like to ask you about:

 

1) The amp is still a little noisy. I'm sure one obvious answer is "pick low-noise tubes", but I know that it can be a bear to track other noise problems in an old amp. (Weren't original 7025's a low noise tube? Maybe Fender was addressing something in the circuit with the original tube chart?)

 

2) there's still a LITTLE ghost noting. It's WAY better than before. My amp tech noticed this and said he could add more filtering, but that can cause other problems...

 

3) I put in 2 Jensen Reissue C12Q's in the cab. These break up nicely, and have the highs and lows covered, and are probably the right power rating for this amp. I may swap one of them, though, for a C12N or P12N (Reissue) to add more midrange. I've heard that 2 C12N's in this cab would be muddy and need insulation, but I like the idea of combining 2 different speakers in a cab to get a better frequency response and different character.

 

Myles, thanks for the opportunity to let me pick your brain. I know you've probably seen a TON of these amps and have some good input. They're still out there and affordable, and sound great when set up right, so maybe your response will benefit others as well.

 

thanks kindly,

Curly Dan

[Blue Note]

Myles,

 

Talked to you a couple weeks ago about some NOS RCA-6V6GTA's for my Princeton Reverb, and Deluxe Reverb that I had ordered from Tube World. I haven't had the time to install them yet but I do remember you saying something about a good price for black plates. Well these are labeled RCA-6V6GTA but the plates are gray and the bottles are clear. I also seen the post about the 6V6's from Italy that had the Black plate sound, how do the RCA gray plates compare and would it be best to try to get some of these tubes made with the RCA parts.

 

Thank You.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by milobender:

Thanks Myles! I'm in Wyoming but maybe I'll make it out your way soon...

 

I'm the one who's been asking you questions about the TBR-1M last week. The guy ended up not wanting to sell as it "may be worth something someday". I found another one though, in Maine, and it will be on the way next week. I'm completely obsessed with the possibilities. It has Soveteks throughout at the moment and from what I've read I'll be changing them (although, to be fair I haven't heard it yet). What do you have in yours? Do you have any recomendations? Not haveing the benchmark of having heard one in stock condition I'd appreciate some ideas. My favorite clean tones are J. Garcia's in the early 70's and for the unclean Santana practically anytime (although I'm a 60's 70's guy Abraxas and all that. Thanks alot for the help you've already provided and I really appreciate your taking your time to share with all of us.

 

Thanks again

 

Brian

 

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by milobender:

Hey... since I had the 1000th post do I get something too?? ;o)

milobender ....

 

If you were the one that made this post hit 1000, then it's free stuff for you if you get to Los Angeles !

milobender ..........

 

If you like the TBR-1M with Sovteks, you will love it a lot more with vitrually ANY other tubes.

 

I think all the tubes and configs off all my amps in in the equipment section of my website.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Jamesian:

Myles, I have a 60-watt Boogie MarkIII, with the original tubes, that I've had since the mid-80's. It's had very light but regular use over the years and has never been roaded around. Although it continues to sound really good I've recently gotten interested in trying some different pre-amp tubes in V1. In order to get to V1 though, I had to remove one of the power tubes (Mesa STR 415) and in so doing, although I was careful with it, I managed to break off the big center pin at it's base. I was able to fit it back in place and re-seat the tube. I then warmed up the amp, powered it up, and it sounded fine.

However when I looked around back there is no blue glow in that tube. I assume the tube is inactive and plan on buying a new set, but the amp sounds fine, so the questions are 1. What is really happening here? 2. Can it run on one tube?

3. What might be the advantages/disadvantages of that?

An un-related question, the amp came with a spare pre-amp tube Mesa STR 12AX7-A (ECC83). Any thoughts on it's character and use? Thanks, and thanks also Myles for this thread, it's really valuable. Jim.

Jamesian ....

 

The broken locator pin is common at times, and is not part of the vacuum, so if you line up the pins properly, this should be okay, but BE SURE.

 

The MESA SRT-415 was an older Chinese tube, and was worth replacing anyway, even when new. The new Chinese 6L6's are vastly superior.

 

In some tubes you will see the glow, in others you may not.

 

You are probably running on both output tubes, if you were not, the amp would sound awful. Do not ever run or try to run an amp on one tube in an output duet.

 

I would need to see your spare preamp tube to know what it is for sure.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by sgguitarzz:

Thanks for your reply concerning the Sunn T50c and Reverend Hellhound. Would you know if the Sunn is the same amp as the new Fender Pro Tubes Pro. I know Fender made the Sunn and the features look virtually identical.

sgguitarzz ....

 

The features may look the same, but they are different amps.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by macmax:

posted 01-12-2003 02:20 AM                         

 

Hi:

 

What would be the difference between a mesa spax7 and 12ax7 ecc83???

 

I mean, from what i know and from what i have tried the spax7 seems better noise reduction . I know they are both sovteks.

 

But i am wondering if mesa tests this tubes better than the 12ax7's or if it is the same, i need new tubes and i like the way they sound, but paying 10 more bucks for each is a bit upwards.I have the money thou and was just wondering if it is worth it having spax7's in the whole preamp chain?

I have two of them and i would like to know if it would be better to install all 6 spax7's as my preamp tubes or if mixing them with the 12ax7's is a good idea.

 

I recently bought some eh's , wich i did not like , they killed my clean and sound as if the amp had a blanket on it's front grill.

 

I know evilmeow likes them so i will be shipping 2 of them to him.

 

Thanks for your help, everyone else , please feel free to jump in and comment.

I am also known as warlock7 from the hc forum

 

Off topic

I think last year the nba handed the tittle to the lakers, David Stern and the officials should let the teams do the talking on the court and not fix these games.

 

Even thou i am a knicks fan i consider the kings to have won last's years championship.

I also have a friend that works for one of the networks u all know and he emailed me something at the time that i can't email to anyone, but he says everyone of the tv guys were ashan=med of how game six was called and some of the previous too.

 

Prediction for this year?

If the lakers get to the playoffs, everything will be orchestrated to make them the new champions again , hehhehhe, just to get some news and see if they can get the league out of it's misery, but we all know this will sink it a lot more into that same misery.

 

--------------------

Darwin=unix=mac=perfect

The differences on these tubes is covered in depth on my website.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Curly Dan:

Myles:

thanks for your column in general, and your "mission" to help all of us guitar players!

 

I have a '66 Bassman head & cab. The circuit is an AB165. I just got it back from my amp tech. It was pretty "sour" ghost-note wise - unplayable really, so he went through it, replacing one of the filtering caps, and actually doing several small things to improve dynamics and frequency response, and the amp sounds great.

 

I'm testing different preamp tubes to fine tune the amp, both NOS and newer tubes. The tube chart calls for:

7025 7025 7025 12AT7 6L6GC 6L6GC

I'm currently running:

JAN Phillips 12AX7WA

GE 7025

JJ ECC83S (for gain)

JJ ECC81 (balanced)

Phillips 6L6 WGC's

 

I've swapped new and NOS tubes in every slot looking for the right combination, and I'm certainly not done yet. (I have a small stash of new and old tubes.) The phase inverter is a matched one I got from Eurotubes that I'm testing against an NOS tube to see how much difference this makes, which I mentioned on that thread.

 

I have a few issues I'd like to ask you about:

 

1) The amp is still a little noisy. I'm sure one obvious answer is "pick low-noise tubes", but I know that it can be a bear to track other noise problems in an old amp. (Weren't original 7025's a low noise tube? Maybe Fender was addressing something in the circuit with the original tube chart?)

 

2) there's still a LITTLE ghost noting. It's WAY better than before. My amp tech noticed this and said he could add more filtering, but that can cause other problems...

 

3) I put in 2 Jensen Reissue C12Q's in the cab. These break up nicely, and have the highs and lows covered, and are probably the right power rating for this amp. I may swap one of them, though, for a C12N or P12N (Reissue) to add more midrange. I've heard that 2 C12N's in this cab would be muddy and need insulation, but I like the idea of combining 2 different speakers in a cab to get a better frequency response and different character.

 

Myles, thanks for the opportunity to let me pick your brain. I know you've probably seen a TON of these amps and have some good input. They're still out there and affordable, and sound great when set up right, so maybe your response will benefit others as well.

 

thanks kindly,

Curly Dan

Curly Dan ....

 

First off, you are more than welcome.

 

AB-165 .... great amps.

 

New filter caps get rid of a lot of the stray note crud that creeps in these amps over time.

 

The 7025's in V1 and V2 (v1 for one channel and V2 for the other) are part of the original Fender sound, and the RCA, GE, and Sylvanias that were used back then were brighter than a 12AX7 with a longer plate structure. These are the stock sound and character of these amps.

 

I'm testing different preamp tubes to fine tune the amp, both NOS and newer tubes. The tube chart calls for:

 

7025 7025 7025 12AT7 6L6GC 6L6GC

I'm currently running:

JAN Phillips 12AX7WA .... if this is in V1, it will be darker than stock on the first channel.

 

GE 7025 - this will be the original sound.

 

JJ ECC83S (for gain) - this will not change things all that much, as this is not a part of the first gain stages.

 

JJ ECC81 (balanced) - there is "balance" and there is balance. If just balanced for output and not the time component, you are missing the boat a bit. In the MPI area of the GT website, there is now a link to an article about this. It is also on my own website, and I also posted this here this weekend.

 

Phillips 6L6 WGC's - Nice tubes, I prefer the GE's, but this is personal preference.

 

An MPI will show up more in the area of feel, touch, and sustain.

 

The original 7025's were low noise and mil spec, but were selected after manufacture too. These could be tested.

 

Your tone caps may be the culprit here.

 

Speakers are always user taste. I like the C12N's in the 2x12 config myself.

 

Two different speakers in the same cab is very cool. I have done this for years using two 1x12 cabs, 1 with a G12-70 and one G12-85. It sound more open and less "mono" in many cases. Some new amp makers are starting to do this in 2x12 combo amps and other two speaker amps.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

Talked to you a couple weeks ago about some NOS RCA-6V6GTA's for my Princeton Reverb, and Deluxe Reverb that I had ordered from Tube World. I haven't had the time to install them yet but I do remember you saying something about a good price for black plates. Well these are labeled RCA-6V6GTA but the plates are gray and the bottles are clear. I also seen the post about the 6V6's from Italy that had the Black plate sound, how do the RCA gray plates compare and would it be best to try to get some of these tubes made with the RCA parts.

 

Thank You.

There were TONS of 6V6's, and even in the RCA make alone, dozens. There were also a lot of licensed makers in Europe such as Fivre.

 

Some gray plates are better than some black plates, and visa versa.

 

I would need to see the tubes or have a good photo to know what you ended up with.

[FourT6and2]

Myles,

 

I have a 3 channel Duel Rectifier.

 

I just bought JJ (eurotubes) 6L6GC power tubes. Rated at 33, and I will run them on the EL34 bias mode. I was told by Bob at Eurotubes that this was ok and will warm up the sound. Is this true?

 

I am looking for some nice, current production, preamp tubes.

 

Right now I am looking at the JJ ECC83-S 12AX7.

But I hear they are very dark sounding and can muddy up a Mesa. Any thoughts on this? At your website watford valve describes these tubes as being very nice though.

 

I was thinking of buying 4 of thse preamp tubes (one balanced for the phase inverter) and then finding a brighter sounding one for V1.

 

The sound I am looking for is a nice smooth, low-end, over-the-top distortion, low mids, and punchy cleans. (Tool, Stone Sour, Godsmack, etc....not really nu-metal, but I guess you could call it that.)

I don't like the marshall-type crunch.

 

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by FourT6and2:

Myles,

 

I have a 3 channel Duel Rectifier.

 

I just bought JJ (eurotubes) 6L6GC power tubes. Rated at 33, and I will run them on the EL34 bias mode. I was told by Bob at Eurotubes that this was ok and will warm up the sound. Is this true?

 

I am looking for some nice, current production, preamp tubes.

 

Right now I am looking at the JJ ECC83-S 12AX7.

But I hear they are very dark sounding and can muddy up a Mesa. Any thoughts on this? At your website watford valve describes these tubes as being very nice though.

 

I was thinking of buying 4 of thse preamp tubes (one balanced for the phase inverter) and then finding a brighter sounding one for V1.

 

The sound I am looking for is a nice smooth, low-end, over-the-top distortion, low mids, and punchy cleans. (Tool, Stone Sour, Godsmack, etc....not really nu-metal, but I guess you could call it that.)

I don't like the marshall-type crunch.

 

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

FourT6and2

 

First off, Bob Pletka at Eurotubes is a great guy to listen to, especially on Mesa or Peavey amps. He knows what he is talking about. His tubes are also very nicely matched, which cannot be said for a lot of other folks out there.

 

The ECC83S is the strongest in output of any of the current 12AX7 family, but does have a peak in the mids (which is the characteristic Marshall mid peak) that a lot of folks love. But, if you want more high end sparkle and brightness, then the 12AX7R3 (The Electro Harmonix) will have a bit more brightness, and is a very nice tube.

 

The 12AX7C9 is the most warm and linear of any of the current 12AX7's and a lot of folks love these, as they are the most versitile, and tone down some of the Mesa's graininess.

 

The 12AX7R2 (Sovtek 12AX7LPS) is a bit too bright for most tastes, and the long plate structure is more prone to microphonics in combo amps, but you may get by if you find a good one from a good tube vendor.

 

The 12AX7R (Sovtek 12AX7WA) should not be used in your amp at all.

 

My preamp tests are all on my website in the 12AX7 area, that shows how these and more stack up, and why you better know your tube vendor. There is one vendor mentioned on my personal website (and you will need to find it), that I would not suggest buying any tubes from. There are also vendors over there who I trust very much and send many of my personal clients to on a regular basis, even though they may be competitors when I wear my GT hat, rather than my GAB hat.

 

Bob is correct on the bias issue.

 

Right now I am looking at the JJ ECC83-S 12AX7.

But I hear they are very dark sounding and can muddy up a Mesa. Any thoughts on this? At your website watford valve describes these tubes as being very nice though.

 

I was thinking of buying 4 of thse preamp tubes (one balanced for the phase inverter) and then finding a brighter sounding one for V1.

 

The sound I am looking for is a nice smooth, low-end, over-the-top distortion, low mids, and punchy cleans. (Tool, Stone Sour, Godsmack, etc....not really nu-metal, but I guess you could call it that.)

I don't like the marshall-type crunch.

 

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

[FourT6and2]

Thank you so much Myles, you are the first person to actually give me a straight answer.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by FourT6and2:

Thank you so much Myles, you are the first person to actually give me a straight answer.

You are more than welcome

[Gabriel E.]

Here's a question re: power supply filter caps.

 

My Sovtek Mig-50 uses two large can-type 200uf/350v electrolytics. I would like to replace them but am finding lots of 220uf caps and not too many 200uf caps.

 

If I use 220uf caps, will the extra 20uf make a difference?

 

BTW, the schematic I found calls for 220uf caps. There are a lot of differences in the pot and cap values between the schem. and the amp.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

Here's a question re: power supply filter caps.

 

My Sovtek Mig-50 uses two large can-type 200uf/350v electrolytics. I would like to replace them but am finding lots of 220uf caps and not too many 200uf caps.

 

If I use 220uf caps, will the extra 20uf make a difference?

 

BTW, the schematic I found calls for 220uf caps. There are a lot of differences in the pot and cap values between the schem. and the amp.

Gabriel,

 

That is not a big enough difference to matter, the big issue here is making sure the voltage of the cap is equal or greater to the one coming out.

 

You can also contact Sovtek directly, just go to www.sovtek.com and then get the phone number over there, it is an 800 number I think, call there, ask for Al Otto .... say hello from me (he knows me more from my Blueprinting business and Westwood Music more the from GT I think), and tell him what you need as far as caps, as they have them as they are the amps importer.

 

There are always a ton of differences in Russian prints and reality

[DanYmaL X]

Myles:

I heard a rumor about Acoustic being back in business... have you heard anything to that effect, or was the person who told me that maybe thinking of Acoustic Image? I'd really like to find some more information about my B-3 head. I have been unable to locate any specs or technical data on it. I have found several identical or similar amps on eBay, but no-one seems to have ant specs...

 

Danymal

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by danymal_x:

Myles:

I heard a rumor about Acoustic being back in business... have you heard anything to that effect, or was the person who told me that maybe thinking of Acoustic Image? I'd really like to find some more information about my B-3 head. I have been unable to locate any specs or technical data on it. I have found several identical or similar amps on eBay, but no-one seems to have ant specs...

 

Danymal

Danymal ........

 

I do not know if this is true, but will probably know more after the NAMM show.

[Gabriel E.]

Gabriel,

 

That is not a big enough difference to matter, the big issue here is making sure the voltage of the cap is equal or greater to the one coming out.

 

You can also contact Sovtek directly, just go to www.sovtek.com and then get the phone number over there, it is an 800 number I think, call there, ask for Al Otto .... say hello from me (he knows me more from my Blueprinting business and Westwood Music more the from GT I think), and tell him what you need as far as caps, as they have them as they are the amps importer.

 

There are always a ton of differences in Russian prints and reality

Thanks Myles. Component selection always makes my head spin. New Sensor/Sovtek carry both LCR and JJ caps. Any preference?

 

Also, Allied has some Mallory CGS computer-grade caps for a reasonable price. Is there a noticable difference between these 3 brands?

 

On Ampage, someone mentioned increasing the plate resistors on the preamp tubes to 220K for added gain. Will this work? Worth it?

 

BTW, I switched out the ceramic disks on my Champ 12 for silver micas and replaced the Illinois preamp electrolytics with Black Gates and the thing sings! The tonal improvement is massive.

 

It never ends!

[Blue Note]

Myles,

 

About three years ago I converted a 68 or 69 Bantam Bass from 6L6's to El-34 according to the amp mods for Fender in the Groove Tubes book. I was trying to get a early Billy Gibbons sound plus the book suggested this would also make a improvement in my clean sound. I used some GT-El34's that I had purchased in 1993 and I'm not sure exactly which type but it was the best GT offered at the time. Any way I'm not sure I want to leave the EL-34's in there,I really didn't acheive the Billy Gibbons tone I was wanting and don't really notice a improvement in the clean sound either. I know this is my oppinion and not to say this mod is not a good one based on my oppinion, but the book also says if you want to go back to 6L6's all you need is a rebias. Do you agree with this? Another concern of mine is I have another Bantam Bass head which still has the 6L6's that I am trying to make this two amps sound as close to as possible and afraid the mod may have some coloration in the tone also.

 

I am thinking of ordering a quartet of the chinese GT-6L6's to put on both of these amps would you reccomend this for a early low volume bluesy distortion.

 

I have already aquired some 5751's and matched 12AT7's from Tube World for the pre-amp section.

 

These amps although both 68-69 year I have noticed some different capacitors in the circuit I am guessing to get these to sound the same I will need to match these do you reccomend any particular types and values in the pre-amp and the coupling capacitor to the power tubes also.

 

One more thing I also have a 68 or 69 Silver Face Bassman Head, would this amp react more to this mod for getting a early Billy Gibbons tone.

 

Thanks for your help I'll try to limit my questions next time.

[milobender]

Oops... wrong key, sorry about the previous double post.

 

You mention, on the website, the power tubes in your TBR-1M are Svetlanas (el34), but no mention of preamp tubes.?. I just ordered a few 12ax7eh and 12ax7a to try mixing and matching. I'd love to try a couple of mullards/telefunken/etc... but I'm practically cashed out after the purchase... so I'll try the cheaper options. Do you mix variatys in yours? or the same type throughout?

 

Originally posted by milobender:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by milobender:

Thanks Myles! I'm in Wyoming but maybe I'll make it out your way soon...

 

I'm the one who's been asking you questions about the TBR-1M last week. The guy ended up not wanting to sell as it "may be worth something someday". I found another one though, in Maine, and it will be on the way next week. I'm completely obsessed with the possibilities. It has Soveteks throughout at the moment and from what I've read I'll be changing them (although, to be fair I haven't heard it yet). What do you have in yours? Do you have any recomendations? Not haveing the benchmark of having heard one in stock condition I'd appreciate some ideas. My favorite clean tones are J. Garcia's in the early 70's and for the unclean Santana practically anytime (although I'm a 60's 70's guy Abraxas and all that. Thanks alot for the help you've already provided and I really appreciate your taking your time to share with all of us.

 

Thanks again

 

Brian

 

quote:

---

Originally posted by myles111:

quote:

---

Originally posted by milobender:

Hey... since I had the 1000th post do I get something too?? ;o)

milobender ....

 

If you were the one that made this post hit 1000, then it's free stuff for you if you get to Los Angeles !

milobender ..........

 

If you like the TBR-1M with Sovteks, you will love it a lot more with vitrually ANY other tubes.

 

I think all the tubes and configs off all my amps in in the equipment section of my website.

---

---

[Halen I]

Myles,

 

I wanted to know what the difference is between the new Groove Tubes 6L6GE & the USA 5881 that's currently offered from Groove Tubes? Did Ge make a 6L6GC & A 5881 or was their only one GE 6L6 made?

 

I have a Marshall JCM 900 100W 2 X 12 Combo. Currently my favorite tube in that amp is a Svetlana 6L6GC. I think this tube has very good clarity, depth & warmth. How does the GE compare *Gain & Tone wise.

 

Thank You

 

Dave

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

Gabriel,

 

That is not a big enough difference to matter, the big issue here is making sure the voltage of the cap is equal or greater to the one coming out.

 

You can also contact Sovtek directly, just go to www.sovtek.com and then get the phone number over there, it is an 800 number I think, call there, ask for Al Otto .... say hello from me (he knows me more from my Blueprinting business and Westwood Music more the from GT I think), and tell him what you need as far as caps, as they have them as they are the amps importer.

 

There are always a ton of differences in Russian prints and reality

Thanks Myles. Component selection always makes my head spin. New Sensor/Sovtek carry both LCR and JJ caps. Any preference?

 

Also, Allied has some Mallory CGS computer-grade caps for a reasonable price. Is there a noticable difference between these 3 brands?

 

On Ampage, someone mentioned increasing the plate resistors on the preamp tubes to 220K for added gain. Will this work? Worth it?

 

BTW, I switched out the ceramic disks on my Champ 12 for silver micas and replaced the Illinois preamp electrolytics with Black Gates and the thing sings! The tonal improvement is massive.

 

It never ends!

Gabriel .......

 

Caps are personal preference like a lot of other amp aspects. I use LCR in Marshall amps most of the time.

 

I keep curcuits stock, but if you want to talk mods, then I'd drop a line to Trace over at Voo Doo.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

About three years ago I converted a 68 or 69 Bantam Bass from 6L6's to El-34 according to the amp mods for Fender in the Groove Tubes book. I was trying to get a early Billy Gibbons sound plus the book suggested this would also make a improvement in my clean sound. I used some GT-El34's that I had purchased in 1993 and I'm not sure exactly which type but it was the best GT offered at the time. Any way I'm not sure I want to leave the EL-34's in there,I really didn't acheive the Billy Gibbons tone I was wanting and don't really notice a improvement in the clean sound either. I know this is my oppinion and not to say this mod is not a good one based on my oppinion, but the book also says if you want to go back to 6L6's all you need is a rebias. Do you agree with this? Another concern of mine is I have another Bantam Bass head which still has the 6L6's that I am trying to make this two amps sound as close to as possible and afraid the mod may have some coloration in the tone also.

 

I am thinking of ordering a quartet of the chinese GT-6L6's to put on both of these amps would you reccomend this for a early low volume bluesy distortion.

 

I have already aquired some 5751's and matched 12AT7's from Tube World for the pre-amp section.

 

These amps although both 68-69 year I have noticed some different capacitors in the circuit I am guessing to get these to sound the same I will need to match these do you reccomend any particular types and values in the pre-amp and the coupling capacitor to the power tubes also.

 

One more thing I also have a 68 or 69 Silver Face Bassman Head, would this amp react more to this mod for getting a early Billy Gibbons tone.

 

Thanks for your help I'll try to limit my questions next time.

Blue Note ....

 

I do not covert Fender amps to EL-34's as the front ends of a Fender and Marshall are so different, that trying to "turn" one into the other is sort of hopeless:

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/differences.html ... see the graphs.

 

You will not get the Gibbons tone, or come even close with the Fender front end and tone stack.

 

All you need to do is stick in some good 6L6's and rebias. The 5 watt 1000 ohm screen resistors also fix one of the "weak" areas in Fender amps in general, and do not change the tone.

 

For Blues, at low level, a #2 or #3 set of KT-66's in a Fender is killer: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1692

 

A lot of folks also swear by the lower vacuum Chinese coke bottle tubes in low ratings.

 

For Blues and Rock, then a good choice, currently seeming to be the favorite of most folks we support ( http://www.groovetubes.com/f-n-r.cfm ) are the USA GT GE's.

 

On 5751's, make sure they are NOS and not the new made 5751's.

 

There were a few changes, such as the 1200pf caps in the bias circuit. If you want to go back to older Blackface specs, let me know via email to GT and I will send you a print at no charge as an email attachment.

 

You will not get Gibbons tone out of a Fender amp.

 

You also do not need to limit your questions

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Halen I:

Myles,

 

I wanted to know what the difference is between the new Groove Tubes 6L6GE & the USA 5881 that's currently offered from Groove Tubes? Did Ge make a 6L6GC & A 5881 or was their only one GE 6L6 made?

 

I have a Marshall JCM 900 100W 2 X 12 Combo. Currently my favorite tube in that amp is a Svetlana 6L6GC. I think this tube has very good clarity, depth & warmth. How does the GE compare *Gain & Tone wise.

 

Thank You

 

Dave

Dave,

 

The 5881A was a few different tubes (none made by GT by the way), depending on the year. At times they were the Tung Sol 5881 (I wish I had a dozen of these personally), and at times JAN Philips, and at times other tubes.

 

The GE's are made by GT here in California at our facility. On the GT website, I have some very bad photos that I took that you can get to from links at the end of any of the GE areas:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1713

 

There are also a couple of reviews.

 

The GE is stronger than the Svetlana (which we call the 6L6R2 by the way), has about a 15 degree wider sound image, and more harmonic content and detail. Nobody that we support ( http://www.groovetubes.com/f-n-r.cfm ) that used the R2's and went to the GE's has gone back to the Svets. The date codes of the Svets of 2002-2003 should also be bought only from a vendor that tests tubes very well, as these later date codes have some low vacuum problems, so make sure you trust your tube vendor.

 

I think if you check around, you will see that most folks have some strong feelings on the USA GE's, and that is why we are stopping the sale of the 5881A.

 

Currently, GE's are in short supply, as we make them here and production is limited due to our pump down which takes much longer than high production Russian, Chinese, or East Europe pump down which does not use a turbo-molecular pump after the diffusion pump. The life of the GE seems to be in excess of 6000 hours, as a set from Feb 02 now has 6600+ hours on them running at 105%, with only a 3% bias drop in that time period. The NAMM show is currently running, so a lot of these went to NAMM, so we do not have the stock we'd like at the moment, but some GT dealers may have a few sets in stock, and you can also order them off the website directly.

[doc taz]

Hi Myles,

 

What do you think of tube units like ART's Tube MP and the Tube Works Blue Tube? I might check these out, as I'm a bit short on the buck$, but would like to warm up my solid state rigs. I'm thinking of putting them after the effects in the FX loop, just before the power amp stage.

 

Any advice?

[Blue Note]

Myles,

 

Thanks a bunch, right now the printer in our shop is in for repair and I do not have a printer at home so I will get back with you on the schematics. I will get me some 6L6's or the KT's you mentioned and go back to the Fender sound the amp was meant to be.

 

Talk to you soon.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by tazzola:

Hi Myles,

 

What do you think of tube units like ART's Tube MP and the Tube Works Blue Tube? I might check these out, as I'm a bit short on the buck$, but would like to warm up my solid state rigs. I'm thinking of putting them after the effects in the FX loop, just before the power amp stage.

 

Any advice?

tazzola .......

 

These are nice units, but are a bit noisy for me and do not have enough gain for me. That is why we came up with the DITTO:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1605 which was shown at AES and is being shown at the moment at NAMM. This is in the mid price range.

 

In the high end price range:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1602

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

Thanks a bunch, right now the printer in our shop is in for repair and I do not have a printer at home so I will get back with you on the schematics. I will get me some 6L6's or the KT's you mentioned and go back to the Fender sound the amp was meant to be.

 

Talk to you soon.

Blue Note ....

 

Just let me know when you want the print ... I usually work off a laptop, so I can make the area of the print any size I want and work right off the screen in a lot of cases.