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I need to move my bridge, But how much?


JonathanD

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I put a 22 fret neck on a bass that had a 20 fret neck on it before. How far should I move bridge to compinsate. I have to move the adjustments all the way up (as close to the neck) as I can to get the frets to be on the notes but its not enough. Any new bridge purchase suggestions, I will need something to cover the ugly left behind when I move the bridge. I think I might stay away from stickers if i can. Unless they are realllllllyyy cool.

Jonathan

 

 

 

 

 

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Relationally that is gonna push your pickups back and make the bass sound a bith thinner/potentially more aggressive.

 

I would suggest that you move the bridge the distance between the 20th and 22nd frets - this assuming the scale length on the two necks is the same.

Just as we take advantage of what is, we should recognize the utility of what is not.

- Lao-tzu

 

It's what I make - it's what I play

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Originally posted by knuckle_head:

Relationally that is gonna push your pickups back and make the bass sound a bith thinner/potentially more aggressive.

 

I would suggest that you move the bridge the distance between the 20th and 22nd frets - this assuming the scale length on the two necks is the same.

What he said. If the scale length of the necks is different you're going to need to do some measuring from the nut to figure out the new position.

 

You could always try and find an original 2Tek bridge on Ebay and route a huge hole in the body to mount the new bridge. That will surely hide the old mount holes because it'll be routed out. :D

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Don't do anything until you've checked the scale lengths. Measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Double this number and you have the scale lengths. Then, I suggest you report your findings back to the forum.

 

It would have been sensible to stick with the same scale length! Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

Davo

"We will make you bob your head whether you want to or not". - David Sisk
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I'm not sure what you are doing here.

 

Does the new neck have the same scale as the old one? In other words, are the frets the same distance apart?

 

I'd be surprised if the scales were different.

 

Moving the bridge could solve the problem. Rerouting the neck pocket on the body could also solve the problem.

 

Why are you doing this?

 

If you are going to replace the neck, it doesn't make sense to use a new one which is a different size than the old one.

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Measure from the nut of the neck to the 12th (octave) fret & double it.

 

Let's *assume* that you find this is 34".

 

With the neck in place, measure 34" from the nut into the body & mark this position.

 

This position will be the point where the 'G' string will pass over the saddle.

 

Adjust the 'G' saddle on the bridge assembly to give you some leeway for different string gauges, but it should probably be adjusted about 3/4-way forward (toward the nut). This is because all the other saddles will lie behind this saddle.

 

By mounting the bridge assembly with the 'G' saddle located at the (assumed) 34" point, the rest of the saddles should be able to be accurately located too.

 

Remember, we are only assuming a 34" scale here for illustrative purposes.

 

Geoff

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the World will know Peace": Jimi Hendrix

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The Geoff - blame Caevan!!!

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On your G string the distance between the nut and the 12th fret should be equal to the distance between the 12th fret and the saddle.

 

The other saddles are compensated for intonation, don't use them for reference this way.

- Matt W.
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Thanks, if this clears anything up, I put a MIA fender neck on a MIM fender bass. I have enough info now to get it done.

 

Way2Fat, I needed a new neck, and couldnt find one that fitted for about 6 months (i didnt want to pay more for the neck than I did for the bass so i didnt buy new. plus warmoth told me they didnt have anythingt hat would work.) I saw a defretted neck on ebay and snatched it up... now its my baby.

 

 

 

 

 

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So the difference in bridge placement is going to be the distance between the 20th and 22nd frets if scale length is identical.

 

Doing a true 34" measure will mess with you some as there is string compensation to consider - all 34" basses have an actual measure to the intonated G string saddle slightly longer than 34". If you have/had your bass set up well then the compensation will have already been figured in without having to measure from the nut.

 

If you use a grease pencil or china marker you can set a mark on the body at the center of the travel of your saddles. Mark both sides of your bridge and your bridge as well. Take the measurement you get from the 20th to the 22nd fret and make another pair of marks on the body that distance towards the neck pocket. Locate, predrill, screw down, done.

 

You ought to expect that your bass is going to sound different as you have essentially moved the pickups closer to the bridge by the same amount as you have moved the bridge to the neck pocket. Report back as I am curious how different it will become.

Just as we take advantage of what is, we should recognize the utility of what is not.

- Lao-tzu

 

It's what I make - it's what I play

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Jonathan, I recently installed a 1990 P Bass Plus neck on a P Bass special body, P & J pickups. I routed the body cavity so that the neck sat 1 1/2" deeper into the body. This is the difference of the two extra frets. I then placed the bridge where the 12th fret was exactly half way between the nut and the bridge. It is still a 32" scale but the neck location is different. Worked fine, I love it. I opened up the cutouts to resemble the 1990 factory P Bass plus. This allows for the balance to be correct with the longer neck. If you don't set the neck back, there will not be enough room on the body to install the bridge. The P Bass pickup is closer to the neck which make the tone much warmer. I can email you some pictures if you like.

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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