tomson Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I have a key on my PX-5S that's out of the action, so to speak. Can anyone tell me what I should remove to gain access to the action and put things right? Thanks, Tom Tom Murphy Norwich, NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 I'm doing something wrong on adding a photo, apparently. The key is elevated above its normal position and won't return. It can be seen here if nowhere else: https://plus.google.com/photos/102168009295512217486/albums/6021800314414773281 or here: www.murphies.blogspot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxcvbnm098 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Mike Martin from Casio will likely comment on this. Give him a day or two and I'm sure you'll hear what the best way to proceed is. You might mention where you are based? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bif_ Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I have to ask. How did that happen? I want to make sure I don't do it. Kurzweil Forte, Yamaha Motif ES7, Muse Receptor 2 Pro Max, Neo Ventilator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 ZX, thanks. Norwich NY. It's in the OP. Bif, I was packing it to ship it, and I think I pulled up on that key when I was lifting it. Not entirely sure, just there it was. Thanks, Tom Tom Murphy Norwich, NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWkeys Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Same thing happened to me. The keyboard took a fall in its case, and something like an octave and a half of the keys became "disjointed". Luckily, that's all it is. Once you open up the keyboard and get access to the underside of the action, you will see that you simply have to click the joint back in place. Unfortunately, I was in a hurry and didn't have time to document the process. Be prepared, you have to remove a LOT of screws. Takes about a couple hours to do, but if you have any experience opening up synthesizers, you can do this yourself. Use a large, clean surface to work on, go slowly and be VERY careful with wires and cables and their connections, take pics with your phone if you need to.) One thing to bear in mind: the top panel with all the controls comes apart in three pieces, with wires connected between them. The blue velvet dust stop at the top of the keys holds them together. Kinda precarious. There's a lot of screws because some of the plastics used are flimsy - but otherwise, I marvel at the build quality of the PX-5S. One of the better purchases I ever made! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWkeys Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 BTW, you may void your warranty on the Casio if you do what I did! :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Thanks, AWKeys. If I remove all the screws on the black underside panel will I then have access by lifting the panel? I don't want to disturb anything I don't have to disturb. Tom Tom Murphy Norwich, NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Muscara Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 You might want to check out EscapeRocks' thread about painting the PX-350 and the PX-5S. https://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2546470/Re_And_so_it_begins_Paint_proj https://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2593165/OT_Another_Paint_project_PX_5S#Post2593165 "I'm so crazy, I don't know this is impossible! Hoo hoo!" - Daffy Duck "The good news is that once you start piano you never have to worry about getting laid again. More time to practice!" - MOI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEB Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Have tried to press the key back into place from the outside. I had that happen to a MP-5 during a setup. I was like 'Oh ****!' I play in 15 minutes. The key popped back into place buy pushing it in place from the outside. Don't try to force it too much you might break something. I don't know anything about the Casio action. "It doesn't have to be difficult to be cool" - Mitch Towne "A great musician can bring tears to your eyes!!! So can a auto Mechanic." - Stokes Hunt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Martin Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 As a Casio employee I can't advise you on how to do this yourself. Obviously a Casio service center can help you. -Mike Martin Casio Mike Martin Photography Instagram Facebook The Big Picture Photography Forum on Music Player Network The opinions I post here are my own and do not represent the company I work for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Joe, thanks. Helpful. CEB, yeah, I've tried, but there's too much resistance. I've gotten away with that before but I can't remember on what machine. Kurzweil Mark 10? FP-7F? Dunno. Mike, thanks. I won't be going to a service center. Tom Tom Murphy Norwich NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWkeys Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Hey Mike, hope all is well with you! Hi Tomson, as per Mike, if you don't want to void your warranty and can afford to be without the board for a little bit, by all means take it to a Casio service center. I have tinkered with opening up synths and other boards for years, so I took the risk on and fixed it myself. That said, my experience was that you have to remove pretty much all of the screws from the underside and the side blocks. Make sure you take lots of pictures, because as I said before, there are a LOT of screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bif_ Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 As a Casio employee I can't advise you on how to do this yourself. What about as a regular guy just posting on a forum? Kurzweil Forte, Yamaha Motif ES7, Muse Receptor 2 Pro Max, Neo Ventilator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Well, mission accomplished. AWKeys was right about there being a lot of screws. But they're coarse-threaded and come out quickly, and 90% of them are the same size. Briefly, I removed all the screws from the underside except 2 pairs of smaller screws that don't need to come out. There are 8 "ports" with smaller screws that need to be removed to get at other screws. The end caps come off easily. Then, flipping the board over with the keys facing me, the 3-piece control panel lifts off and away. Then there are three more screws holding the action to the underside, and once they are out the action lifts out. I was definitely feeling my way and being careful. As to the reason this key popped up: There is a rubber bumper on the hammer where the key contacts it. On this particular key, the bumper was installed upside down. I noticed this because I removed an adjacent key and saw that the two ends of the hammer didn't look the same. I removed and reinstalled the bumper and all is well, and I don't expect this to happen again. Thanks for the help and suggestions. Tom Murphy Norwich, NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EscapeRocks Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Hey Tom, Sorry I just saw this. I could have saved you some exploratory time The only time I've had a key slip out was when doing total disassembly for my painting. Sounds like you did well. The big trick is knowing that those access hatches are to get to the screws that hold in the three control panels up top. Of course this is after you remove the side trim. Most things with the keybed can be remedied WITHOUT removing is from the shell.. Just removed the control panel section above the area you need to work on. All of the above is done at one's own risk, of course. I don't recommend if one is clumsy with tools. As you mentioned, Tom, the course thread of the screws makes them easy to work with in the plastic. They're harder to over tighten/strip than others. My Alesis Vortex screws will strip out the holes instantly if not careful. Anyhow, glad you got it all fixed! David Gig Rig:Depends on the day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomson Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks, ER. I see what you mean. removing that section of CP would have given me access to the key pivot, but I don't think I could've gotten the key back in with the front part of the underside panel in the way. The key has to slide in from the front to hook that bumper. Once that's hooked, the key can be replaced in the pivot. If the front part of the panel was separate it would've been easy. But I may just not be seeing it. I may not have noticed the upside down bumper, either. I was flying a bit blind and I really couldn't see how it all fit together until I had it all apart. Ain't it always that way. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EscapeRocks Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Yeah, to do what you did you needed to remove the keybed. Anyhow, I've now completely disassembled the new PX boards twice. First my PX350..then my PX-5S. The PX-5S was a breeze after my learning curve with the 350. David Gig Rig:Depends on the day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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