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Hammond Model D: Worth $600?


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I am assuming this is a Model D from the late 30's or early 40's.

 

You are in Canada, and you may not see as many A 100's as we do on the states, which would be my preference in that price range.

 

My second choice for less money would be a B-2 or C-2. Some people actually prefer the 2 series over the 3's because the preamp sounds phenomenal, it has good chorus vibrato and you can attach the Trek II percussion. A "2" in good condition can be one of the best Hammonds you will ever hear.

 

There are people who love the early Hammonds, but most of them have tech skills. Since I don't, I'll take an A 100 or C-2 .

 

By the way if this is an early Hammond, does it come with a tone cabinet? Sometimes the parts in those will bring 600 dollars or more, depending on speakers and amplifiers.

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I am assuming this is a Model D from the late 30's or early 40's.

 

By the way if this is an early Hammond, does it come with a tone cabinet?

 

 

Did you read the advert?

 

"CLASSIC FULL CONSOLE HAMMOND FROM THE MID 40'S...

 

Comes with the tall DR-40 tone cabinet".

 

 

By the way, Eric, it looks like a good buy to me for $600 :thu:

John.

 

some stuff on myspace

 

Nord: StageEX-88, Electro2-73, Hammond: XK-1, Yamaha: XS7

Korg: M3-73 EXpanded, M50-88, X50, Roland: Juno D, Kurzweil: K2000vp.

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Model D's can sound amazing!

 

First, there is NO fold back so the bass is deep on the lower manual and goes all the way down! Very good for playing LH bass lines.

 

Second, the chorusing is mechanically engaged, and is derived from a 2nd set of slightly detuned tonewheels. The result is a much more "shimmering" chorus than the electronic chorusing found on the later models.

 

The "Tremulant" which is a type of vibrato control, I personally find unpleasant, but it is there. The big difference is there is no independent vib/chorus control for each manual. It's either on or off for both.

 

As far as the tone cabinet, it is worth something if it works and you don't have a leslie to run your D through. Also, if you're going to add a leslie, you will need to install a B+ power supply into your Model D.

 

Also, I have known more than a few guitarists who love to make guitar amps out of Hammond Tone Cabinets. I know the PR 40 series is more desirable, but you never know.

 

One of my 4 consoles is Model D, stock with no mods and it is a great sounding box and if it is in good condition, $600 isn't a bad price.

Yamaha C7 Grand, My Hammonds: '57 B3, '54 C2, '42 BC, '40 D, '05 XK3 Pro System, Kawai MP9000, Fender Rhodes Mk I 73, Yamaha CP33, Motif ES6, Nord Electro 2, Minimoog Voyager & Model D, Korg MS10
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No... I didn't catch the "Advert"

 

BUSTED!

 

CLONK link? Didn't get it.

 

Model D, still an acquired taste. Go for it if you love a serious vintage vibe. Like an old car, may need TLC (and a B+ power source) wheras B-3/ C-3/ A 100 's I have had rarely if ever need service.

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Some model D's don't have bass all the way down, they fold back at the G above low C (ie - they have the 82-note generator that came out just before WW2 ramped up, replaced after the war with the second 91-note TG that had complex-wave wheels for 1-12 for the pedals. Early BC, BV, and CV organs had the 82-note generator as well.) You really have to play it (or know what you're seeing when eyeballing the terminal strip) to be certain when looking at a prospective D to purchase.

 

Also be careful as more than a few D's had vibrato kits added, and oftener than not had the chorus generators removed as Hammond instructed techs to do so (though if a customer insisted they'd leave it in.)

 

TP

---

Todd A. Phipps

"...no, I'm not a Hammondoholic...I can stop anytime..."

http://www.facebook.com/b3nut ** http://www.blueolives.com

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  • 9 years later...

Todd<

I'm in the final stages of restoring a Hammond D. I am currently at an impasse re; the Tremulant Switch. It looks as though a previous tech has done a mod on the switch. That in combination with the schematic has me a bit bewildered. I've attached a photo of the switch as it currently exists. The resistor values do not correspond to the schematic, and the wiring does not make sense. Example; the two black wires that go to the rheostat, look to me to reversed. The black wire with the red tape goes to C3 in the rheostat, which i think is wrong. Confusion reigns and i hope you can offer some advice, or a picture to get me through this impasse. Thank you in advance for your time.

Nick Stevens

Downtown Recording

594.jpg.7667ebc89f551daaf988de05ee9fa9dd.jpg

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Add is gone. Did you buy it? You should have bought those 50Cs that were for sale last month. :)

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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