Bass-building books?

[calypsocoral]

Okay, so I'm in a bit of a dilemma--

 

I own 2 electric basses, both pretty cheap. Nice enough to learn on, but I'm beginning to feel the itch to step up.

 

So, I've been looking online, reading the reviews-- apparently, this is a pretty good time to be a musician shopping for gear (Fender prices notwithstanding, of course).

 

But, a year ago was a good time to buy a computer-- I built one instead, and it turned out very well.

 

So, I've been taking a gander at the Warmoth website lately and came across a mind-boggling array of goodies that got my creative juices flowing.

 

I was wondering if anyone knew of any good books I can buy to help me through the process, including action/intonation setups (including shimming the neck, though by most accounts, Warmoth's necks fit pretty tightly), and ESPECIALLY the wiring (I would love to know how they run a grounding wire to the bridge).

 

For the record, I would like to start with something very straightforward, like a '54 Precision. I'm considering the following:

 

1) Swamp Ash '54 Precision body in Butterscotch Blonde (though I haven't ruled out 2-tone Sunburst yet), with the stock (current) Fender bridge routing. I'm considering a scarfed neck heel and some washers to mount the neck bolts flush, though I realize this can complicate things (routing recesses for the washers, finding shorter bolts, etc).

 

2) P-style neck with "Tele" headstock in quartersawn maple with maple fretboard-- I'm looking into a Vintage Tint, but only if it can be finished in matte lacquer (I don't care for the glossy stuff).

 

3) Rio Grande "Muy Grande" Single-coil P-bass pickup.

 

4) Leo Quan BadAss II bridge.

 

I like things with an "old school" æsthetic, but with modern functionality. I would have REALLY liked to install a G&L Saddle-Lock bridge, but nobody does the routing for those... and routing a body for a bridge is far beyond what I'm willing to try on my first project.

 

This definitely seems like the kind of bass that would fit Fusion, Blues, and Classic Rock like a glove. Plus, it would be cool to build my take on the solid-body electric bass that started it ALL!

[picker]

Dan Erlewine wrote a book, the name of which I do not remember, but it has pretty much all the info anyone would need to put an electric bass or guitar together. I think it's available from Stewart MacDonald, along with a lot of the tools and paraphernalia needed to do the work you're looking at.

 

I'm pretty sure when all is said and done,though, you'll find out you spent as much on putting a bass together as you would for a good new bass, and more than a really good used one. Warmoth parts ain't cheap, neither is much else you'll need to finish the job. Add up the prices of the parts you named and see if the sum isn't more than THIS, or THIS. And, if you're not already very familiar with wood working, you are three or four skinned knuckles and several glaring headaches away from getting the job done the way you describe it.

 

But, it can be a great, albeit expensive, learning experience, and if you gotta do it, you gotta do it. So have fun, and take it s-l-o-w.

[b5pilot]

Since you've got that shiny new computer you can always search the web for info also and save the cost of a book. Building a bass can be very rewarding and a great learning tool but yeah, take it slow.

[Rocky McDougall]

The Erlewine book is a great place to start and stewmaac.com has tremendous resourses to guide you and the parts and tools to do a first class job. The internet has endless information and some great videos on different aspects of building. I have been in building and resturation for many years and it is a wonderful hobby. The secret to real craftmanship is patience and attention to detail. Building solidbody basses does not require a large investment in special tools. Companies like Warmoth and several others have high quality compnonents to make it pretty easy. Probably the finishing takes the most expertise and time.

Go for it, have fun

Rocky

[Rocky McDougall]

Oooops! double post.

[Cthulhu Fhtagn]

+1 for Stu-Mac. Books, tools, materials, they got it all. My "dream T" from Warmoth (parts alone) comes to $912.

[jeremy c]

Almost verything you have described is relatively easy. Just buy the parts and put them together. That's not bass building, that's bass assembling.

 

You need advice about setup, not construction.

 

A body from Warmoth should already have the hold drilled for the ground wire.

 

Your idea of a Scarfed neck joint puts the project into an entirely different category. Do you have woodworking tools? Are you prepared to ruin one neck trying and then starting over?

If you start cutting up the parts, you will then need to refinish them. Have you ever done that? Do you have the equipment?

 

Many of us have assembled basses. Not so many have actually built them.

 

Jr. high school kids can assemble computers these days, but instrument assembling is a little harder.

 

I like this book. and all the other ones sold by Stewmac.

[calypsocoral]

Almost verything you have described is relatively easy. Just buy the parts and put them together. That's not bass building, that's bass assembling.

 

I do not recall making any pretension otherwise.

 

 

You need advice about setup, not construction.

 

Actually, both would be helpful. Sure, I'm planning to assemble my first bass out of pre-made components-- but, if I go down this avenue, I might try some more involving builds in the future.

 

 

A body from Warmoth should already have the hole drilled for the ground wire.

 

That's what I was hoping. Still, it would be good to know for subsequent builds.

 

 

Your idea of a Scarfed neck joint puts the project into an entirely different category. Do you have woodworking tools? Are you prepared to ruin one neck trying and then starting over?

 

If you start cutting up the parts, you will then need to refinish them. Have you ever done that? Do you have the equipment?

 

Actually, Warmoth now offers a scarfed neck joint option on most of their bodies. The only part that would require any actual modification on my part would be using the flush-mounted washers instead of the standard neck plate.

 

Believe it or not, I have actually thought this through. I would have to rout the recesses for the washers (I would likely be doing this work in my grandfather's shop-- he has virtually every woodworking tool under the sun). Since said routing would be covered by the washers anyway, I think an application of a simple lacquer to close the grain under the washers should do the trick.

 

 

Jr. high school kids can assemble computers these days, but instrument assembling is a little harder.

 

Build a computer yourself and troubleshoot the myriad of subsequent bugs, THEN make a statement like that. With hundreds of millions of transistors per system, all kinds of things can go wrong. At least a passive instrument is simply wood, magnets, and wiring.

 

 

I like this book. and all the other ones sold by Stewmac.

 

Thanks for the advice on the book, I'll be sure to check it out.

[calypsocoral]

I'm pretty sure when all is said and done,though, you'll find out you spent as much on putting a bass together as you would for a good new bass, and more than a really good used one. Warmoth parts ain't cheap, neither is much else you'll need to finish the job.

 

 

Oh yeah. Believe me-- I know for a fact I spent more money on the parts for my computer than simply buying a brand-spanking new one with an equivalent configuration. In a sense, though, it saved money in other ways:

 

1) If a part fails, I can replace it, install it, and troubleshoot it myself, where others would simply start looking at a new system.

 

2) I can upgrade individual components as software changes mandate and my budget allows-- when the best games are released in DirectX 10.0 exclusively (which is starting to happen), I can just simply upgrade my OS and my video sub-system to adapt to the situation instead of buying a new system.

 

3) I learned more about computer hardware during the build than I have shopping for a complete computer-- my confidence in my troubleshooting skills has greatly increased.

 

I hope that assembling an instrument would have a similar effect. That, and, being a dyed-in-the-wool gear-head, I find the physics, and the nuts-and-bolts mechanics in a musical instrument absolutely fascinating.

[SteveC]

I think what people are saying (I am assuming and making conclusions as well as summarizing)is if you want the experience of building that's great, but just know you could buy a "pre-assembled" bass for less.

 

I wanted to try converting a neck to fretless so I bought a MIM jazz bass for a used MIM jazz bass for a few hundred, took off the neck, pulled the frets, filled them in and refinished it. Turned out pretty nice and I learned a little. I could have just bought a fretless neck, but this was what I wanted to do at the time.

 

Turns out I did a recording session with it and I was able to sell the neck for $100 so that was nice.

 

 

[Rocky McDougall]

It looks like you are planning on using some nice, high quality parts. I don't think the cost should be a big factor. You will probably have about $1,200 or more invested but you will have a quality instrument that you can have a lot of pride in saying, "I built that" One thing to remember, it will not have the same value if you ever sell it. But why would you want to sell it? Go for it.

Rocky

[saxofunk]

To someone with zero experience and any hint of apprehension I would suggest a Saga kit as a first build, before investing in Warmoth parts. clickety These are usually available for about $120, so if something goes terribly wrong it's not a huge loss.

[rizzo9247]

You're a huge loss.

[calypsocoral]

A breakdown of my plans for world domination:

 

1954-style Precision bass body, top-routed, Swamp Ash: $185

Scarfed neck option (still debating this): $35

51/54-style B/W/B pickguard: $30

Butterscotch Blonde finish: $185

Maple P-bass neck with Tele-style headstock: $180

Vintage Tint Matte finish on neck: $105

 

Rio Grande "Muy Grande" single-coil pickup: $68.80

Chrome Open Gear bass tuners: $60

String retainer: $2.10

Shielding Tape: $6.00

Capacitor: $0.50

Deep Panel Mono Jack: $8.50

Neck Plate: $5.00

Wiring Kit: $5.95

2 Chrome Control Knobs: $5.50

250Kohm (vintage spec) Volume Pot: $5.00

Straplocks: $13.25

Pickguard screws: $2.25

Bridge screws: $2.00

Neck screws: $2.60

Tele bass control plate (from WD Music Products): $20

Hipshot B-style bridge, Fender mounting pattern (from Best Bass Gear): $85

Stellartone Tone control (from Best Bass Gear): $111

 

Total cost of components: $1123.45

 

This cost is arrived at using premium, all-American parts. Although I'm probably still missing a few nuts or bolts, I think I jotted down most of what I need to get the job done. I could probably save a few hundred or so using cheaper parts, but, as another forum member noted, self-assembled basses don't exactly have much of a resale value, so I might as well invest wisely in solidly-built parts.

 

Regarding the bridge, I decided against the Leo Quan Badass II, as it requires slotting the saddles for the strings, which I really don't care to attempt during my first assembly (in subsequent builds, maybe...). The Hipshot bridge looked like a good option, as it was used for Carvin basses until just a few years ago...

 

So, yeah, the total price approaches an American-made Fender. But it is still far less than a custom instrument commissioned with a luthier-- and I'd learn a heck of a lot more, too.

[Cthulhu Fhtagn]

To someone with zero experience and any hint of apprehension I would suggest a Saga kit as a first build, before investing in Warmoth parts. clickety These are usually available for about $120, so if something goes terribly wrong it's not a huge loss.

 

I believe Carvin offers a couple of basic kits the abiltity to upgrade indiviual components. You have an entire kit and you just replace "that PUP" for "this PUP" and "that body finish" for "this body finish" when you order. Since it's a complete kit, you don't have the whole "Damn, I forgot to order the 17 stupid little screws to put in my pickguard" thing. For an extra $50, they'll even put it together for you (which I believe defeats the purpose).

 

Call me wacky, but I'm just not down with buying a $650US, ash, tele body in two tone tobacco from Warmouth (to match my '51 reissue) and a vintage finish birdseye maple "P" neck (also matches my '51 reissue) and start wailing on it with a router to end up with $900 worth of parts that I couldn't sell for $500 that, in the end, may or may not sound like merde on a stick.

[Rocky McDougall]

If learning to build, is an endeavor that someone wants to take up, the smart thing to do is, buy a cheap bass, disassemble it , strip it, and refinish it. Then, if you feel comfortable, start with a higher quality project. Buying and assembling prefinished parts does not, as Jeremy said, qualify as bass building. It is a quick route to getting what you want without the fear of really screwing up some nice wood.

Rocky

[moot]

With all due respect,I guess I don't get the purpose of the thread. You request suggestions for a book. The title of the thread says it. People give suggestions. But, then you say you are not building, merely assembling. Okay, folks try to help you there. You then go on to present your "master plan" which apparently you already had thought through. So, again, what is this thread about?

 

Are you looking for a reliable parts vendor? no.

Are you looking for a good kit? no.

Are you asking for advice? no.

 

So, what is it you want?

[Cthulhu Fhtagn]

Then again, there is that boutique builder we are all familiar with that can build a bass out of butcher-block, machine the body into something that looks like giant, mutant, junky termites have taken a bite out of and can never play while sitting, put the jack up by the neck, a volume knob by the bridge and the tone knob on the back, DON'T put a truss rod in it and sell it for $450.

[calypsocoral]

Hi moot,

 

I have a solid idea of what I want to put together. That much I have said already.

 

The point of the thread is to ask for a solid reference for the assembly. A few very good references have been suggested, and I am looking into them. I may know how to fasten a bolt with a screwdriver, but I do not yet know anything about wiring, soldering, routing, shimming, or anything else that could possibly go wrong with an assembly. Given the number of parts, HUNDREDS of unforeseen situations can occur. I'm looking for a way to deal with those. I'm looking for something that will help me understand the fine intricacies of building an electric bass, even from pre-fab parts.

 

Am I using the right potentiometer? What are the benefits of a 250Kohm vs. a 500Kohm pot? Did I pick the right capacitor? What gauge of wire should I use? What should I do if there is a bit of space between the neck and the side of the pocket?

 

This is a learning experience for me. I've put a lot of research into my list of parts, but things can still go wrong, and I want to know how do deal with them when they do.

 

Action and intonation setup is a big part of this, hence why I specified that area of study in my initial post.

 

I wrote down the master list to address the responses to my post that called into question the financial feasibility of this project. I have been told that this project would likely cost as much as an American Fender. After listing the parts, I basically told said posters that I already knew this was not the cheapest route-- but that's not the point.

 

Long story short, I want a reference that will deal with the following issues:

 

- The neck bolts are a little too long, what do I do?

- The neck has a bit of a gap, how do I fill it?

- The neck joint is slightly too big for the socket, what do I do?

- Should I use a 250K or 500K pot with this pickup?

- What type of capacitor do I use?

- What sort of finish should I use, and how do I apply it?

- What sort of "feeler gauge" should I buy for the action setup?

- How can I tell if the neck has a very slight bow?

- I want to carve a headstock from a blank, how do I go about this?

- How can I tell if I need a string retainer?

- How do I slot a nut?

- What do I do to the setup if I want to move to a heavier string gauge?

[jeremy c]

With those kind of questions, I would advise starting with the Saga kit for practice before trying the project with the expensive components you have in mind.

 

At one time, I actually bought a couple of junk instruments, disassembled them and then put them back together in order to learn about setups.

[Rocky McDougall]

After reading your lists of concerns, it is evident to me, that you have very little knowledge or experience. There is nothing wrong with that, we were all at that stage at one time. Again, I suggest you start with some older, inexpensive bass and completely restore it. You may not be ready to do a more expensive project for several months or years. Many of the questions you have will not be answered in one book. Get every book you can and also learn as much as you can from this Forum and others that have Luthier sections. Try to learn from experienced builders. Some of the responses, you may get from asking questions, may be from helpful people that don't know much more than you do. Jeremy's suggestion about using the inexpensive kit is good, but I am suggesting something less expensive. Maybe your second project might be that kit.

Good luck, keep learning.

Rocky

[calypsocoral]

Well, I do have an imported P-bass clone I bought for $100 back in high school that could use a little work.

 

It has a nice neck, but it is gloss-finished, and has an ebony fretboard-- good materials, but so heavy that I get a lot of forward tilt.

 

I've been contemplating the merits of a Jazz-profile neck and maybe a J-bass pickup for some time now. Also, the bass is finished in black-- which is great for clothing, but downright boring on an instrument. Maybe I can start learning how to properly apply a finish... it would save me nearly $200 on the full assembly I had in mind...

[jeremy c]

Aha!

 

Take the gloss finish off the back of the neck with 0000 steel wool.

 

Disassemble the whole bass and strip the black finish off. You could sand it off, but there are probably chemical strippers which will help you. (waiting for bad joke in a response to this line).

 

Eagerly await the surprise of seeing what is under the black finish. There might be two more layers of finish there.

 

Build a spray booth, buy all the proper equipment and see what you can do. You could read this thread and read about his refinishing project.

 

Your next task will be to reassemble it.

[calypsocoral]

Hi Jeremy,

 

Sound advice.

 

But... uhh... your link just took me to Page 2 of this forum...

 

The body itself is very light and resonant- it certainly doesn't feel like there is more finish than expected... but you never know, I guess.

 

Oh yeah, do the chemical strippers take $20's? (Sorry-- I had to do it).

[jeremy c]

Link fixed.

[moot]

I'm flattered that you would use me as an example J

 

By all means Mr Calypso tear into that bass. There really is nothing to fear and nothing that can't be fixed if you do goof it up. All you need is a little hands on and you have the perfect guinea pig!

Remember to take pics and post them.