Ibanez Artcore & Floating bridge question

[theTragicRich]

I remember someone here giving a detailed description on adjusting these things but I can't seem to find the right words to get the search function to pull it up.

 

I vaguely remember someone mentioning marking the bridge piece and using some sort of glue/adhesive that shouldn't damage the finish should I ever have to move it again. My recent addition of the Artcore needs new strings and I'm thinking with the different gauge I may need to adjust the bridge, and with the local stores around me not offering a same day turnaround (meaning I can't exactly watch them do it) means I might have to do it myself.

 

I also have a specific question regarding the bridge itself, it has very small screws (requiring tiny, almost eyeglass type screwdrivers) and thumb screws and wondering to the screws hold the bridge pieces together and the thumb screws adjust the bridge height? The manual seems to state I should use a screwdriver but I adjusted the thumbscrews and that raised it. First time with this type of bridge so I hope I'm not doing anything wrong.

 

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[miroslav]

That would be me.

 

When you find the bridge position that works for you.take a pencil, and lightly mark the position of each corner right on the body. I even used a fine point perma-marker as the lines are very thin, small and not noticeablebut thats your call. I had no plans to keep changing bridge positionso once I found the sweet spotI used the perma-marker. And besidesits not really permanent anywayyou can rub it right off with some guitar polish.

 

Anywayafter you mark the position, loosen the strings some more so that you can remove the bridge. Then apply some Elmers white glueand put the bridge back using the marks.

The Elmers glue will also NOT be permanent, and can easily be buffed out, but it will help keep the bridge more stable, and it wont move on you when the strings are being changed or if you bump it with your hand. Though I once bumped it hard enough that the glue seal gave and it shifted (I was "testing" the glue seal, and it gave - DUH!)...

BUTsince I had those permanent marksI just re-seated it with a fresh coat of glue. Its a VERY thin coat of glue anywayits not like you are trying to permanently epoxy the bridge to the body! :grin:

 

AFA the screws and thumbscrewsthey are one and the same. You can use either to raise/lower the bridge. I agree.they require a rather small screw driverbut the thumbscrews are no better when you have the full tension of the strings on the bridge. If you have a firm/strong screwdriver with a tip that fits *tightly* into the slotgo that route. But make sure you have a tight fitting screwdriveras it can easily jump out on you if you are trying to turn against the full string tension.

 

These bridges take a bit more finesse to get them set right and to find the best position and angle for perfect intonationbut once you get them set (and use a little glue to hold them)you will not have any problems. Ill play my Arctores just as hard as my fixed-bridge guitarsand no problems.

 

 

[Fumblyfingers]

Not to argue but I personally would not glue a bridge or mark on the body but that's just me....I can be clumsy and will likely ruin something that way...I realize it is not that permanent a glue but I'd be concerned that after being left on for a long time it might peel some of the finish off with it.

 

I guess it would be okay....I used a very thin double sided carpet tape on mine, utilizing the low tack tape marking method described below, but I regret sticking down the bridge as I am sure it has hardened by now....to some degree. I should go take it off next string change. I am also sure the adhesive part of the tape causes a tonal change. I recently tried raising a bridge on my Gypsy Jazz guitar using strips of adhesive veneer and the tonal change was huge. I ditched the idea. Now I want the tape off my archtop.

 

What you do when removing the bridge is to clean the area around it of polish and then take low tack tape...painters masking tape, the green is the lowest tack I think....and carefully tape around the bridge so when you take the bridge off the tape outline shows you exactly where it goes.

 

Put it back and check intonation. Peel the tape and voila....no permanent or semi-permanent alteration or application to the guitar at all. No glue residue that might possibly get into the finish after a few years.

 

Really once you have it set...if you change strings one at a time you almost do not need to be too concerned with the bridge. If for some reason you need to remove it, just mark it do what need to be done and put it back. I do not angle mine...I let the adjustable saddles deal with that..I just put mine on dead straight. If I had a fixed wood bridge with no saddles, that would require some angle most likely.

 

Like Miro says unless you are smacking the hell out of the guitar the bridge is not likely to move.

 

I mean...Artcore-under $400 guitar..... maybe we do these things like glues and adhesives....would you do this stuff to a vintage Gibson or some beautiful Benedetto or a D'Angelica?

[miroslav]

I dunno, Lister...mmmmmmm.I would be more afraid of the double-sided carpet tape, as I do use that stuff for other things, and man...sometimes after it's been on for awhile...its REALLY STUCK ON!!!

I would be more scared of the tape pulling off the finish...but YMMV.

 

Just to clarify...I've had the bridge come off (as I mentioned)...and there is like this ever-so-thin layer of dry Elmers left on the body...you could easily flake it off the (with NO marring of the finish) just using your thumbnail or guitar pick...but a wet terrycloth towel works like a charm.

 

Yeah...I was wondering if the carpet tape "dulls" the wood-to-wood connection at all?

I know the double-sided carpet tape I've used, has a cloth weave inside it for added strength, so yeah, it may dampen the sound wave transmission from the bridge to the body?

 

Anyway...just some food for thought...but if it's working for you..

 

If you have trouble removing the tape...you can try guitar polish...but if it's not working, use some vegetable oil...it will safely soften up the glue, and then wipe away clean without any finish damage.

 

[Fumblyfingers]

I..sometimes after it's been on for awhile...its REALLY STUCK ON!!!

 

I know!! That's why I am stressed about it now. It's like ..ever seen old duct tape LOL!!!! the actual tape just peels off but the adhesive part is still stuck there...forever....even Goof Off has a rough time getting it. Not that I'd use Goof Off on a guitar.

 

Back in the day we used to stick our cables to the floor with duct tape.

 

You know I read somewhere recently that certain tubing...surgical maybe...like they used to use on guitar stands will react with nitrocellulose lacquer and discolor a neck.

 

I guess this is why I now am anti any sort of tape, glue, adhesive etc on a finished guitar body.

 

Who knows, Artcores might be valuable in 200 years.

 

I really like my AF-75. It just needs an RS Guitarworks vintage upgrade wiring kit and a pair of Classic 57's.

[Caevan O’Shite]

A thought: some of the newer poly finishes- like I'd guess (but don't know for certain) that an Ibanez Artcore would have- might stand up pretty well to some of these adhesives and cleaners and all...

 

But, sometimes better safe than sorry. I'd definitely be a lot more cautious with an old-school nitro-cellulose lacquer finish or the "French Polish" varnish types.

 

As for the hardware and adjustments, any way you can post a pic (even if it's from the URL to a catalog image) of the specific model you have? I'd guess that you're right, that the thumb-wheels would raise and lower the bridge (as with most of these types), and that the very small screws that you describe are part of the bridge assembly, not adjustment-screws...

 

Y'know who should weigh in here? Dave Wendler and dead mike...

[theTragicRich]

Thanks for all the info everyone. The reason the bridge is of concern is because the action is VERY low. I have fret buzz along the entire neck. I've raised the bridge pretty high (it almost looks as though if I raise it any higher it'll come apart, if that's possible) and I've played with the truss rod but to no avail. I'm also looking to put flatwounds on it which are a tad thicker gauge which worries me I'll have even more fret buzz.

 

Again, I wanted to take it to a shop to have them do it, but most of them are a couple day turnaround, especially if it's something a little more complicated which I'm guessing these types of bridges are. Not that I couldn't live without it for a couple days, but I'd really like to see them do it in action so I know what to expect the next time should I decide to do it myself.

 

As for the model, it's an AG95. I can get pics of the bridge if needed. Again, thank you for the info and tips.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Actually, heavier gauge strings than what's already on there will make for less buzz, as the increase in string-tension will pull the neck into more relief, or forward-bow, which in turn allows for more 'elbow-room' for he strings as they vibrate, and effectively raises the action a little.

 

Gonna type it again, I recommend the book How To Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great! by Dan Erlewine. Excellent book; you'll NEVER outgrow it or use more than a fraction of it's good info! Seriously.

[miroslav]

When you say you've "played" with the truss rod...are you actually measuring the string height at the 8th fret...or are you just trying different turns and seeing what happens?

 

Don't just "guesstimate"...

Get a feeler gauge and make sure you have .3 - .5 mm string height measuring *on* the 8th fret (on the metal)...with capo placed at the first fret and you pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body.

Make sure the guitar is in tune when you do this - you want the full tension of the strings on the neck.

And like Caevan said...heavier gauge will pull harder on the neck, causing more bow/relief.

 

That is only way to know for sure...in case you are using some other "by eye" method.