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Replacing G&L neck


Brainflakes

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Newer G&L necks have a 6 bolt pattern, P and J necks are 3 or 4. Call Service department at G&L maybe they can help. Maybe USA Custom guitars will make you a neck with your pattern. They make very good necks.Also try Warmoth,maybe they will do something for you.If you do have a 4 bolt pattern, measure your neck pocket for length and width and match it with what you find. Goodluck.
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Moses also sells a MusicMan/G&L Graphite neck.......if you're rich! :D

You can stop now -jeremyc

STOP QUOTING EVERY THING I SAY!!! -Bass_god_offspring

lug, you should add that statement to you signature.-Tenstrum

I'm not sure any argument can top lug's. - Sweet Willie

 

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I haven't heard of a G&L neck going bad. Of course every company makes a lemon now and again, but I'd go back to G&L. Did you contact them? What arrangements are they willing to make? You may have to pay full price for a replacement (you don't say how old it is, or if you are the original owner) - or you might be surprised to get some genuine customer support. It's happened with other companies before...

 

Tom

www.stoneflyrocks.com

Acoustic Color

 

Be practical as well as generous in your ideals. Keep your eyes on the stars and keep your feet on the ground. - Theodore Roosevelt

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I have a similar problem with my '86 G&L L-1000. I have a significant forward bow approx. 1/8" with no tension on the neck. There are no reasonably priced aftermarket necks available for G&L basses. I'm preparing to clamp my neck into a slight back bow and attempt the dry heat method using clear 250w heat lamps.

 

I read somewhere that G&L will build a neck for it but you must send the complete bass to them. The cost of a new handmade G&L neck is said to be between $500-600. My bass would only be worth maybe $600 if it was playable.

 

G&L made a sweet sounding L1K but this is my 3rd L-1000 that's had severe problems. Right now, I feel that I may give up on G&L instruments altogether. I have bad luck with them.

 

EDIT: G&L produced 3-bolt micro-tilt necks till 199? when they moved to the 6-bolt. The L-1000 model was discontinued in 1993. OP's bass is past the 10 year warranty. Good Luck

 

-Richard

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FYI, I believe they have a 10 year warranty on defects.

You can stop now -jeremyc

STOP QUOTING EVERY THING I SAY!!! -Bass_god_offspring

lug, you should add that statement to you signature.-Tenstrum

I'm not sure any argument can top lug's. - Sweet Willie

 

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Glad to hear that I'm not the only one and it's not all in my head!

 

I read somewhere that G&L will build a neck for it but you must send the complete bass to them. The cost of a new handmade G&L neck is said to be between $500-600. My bass would only be worth maybe $600 if it was playable.

 

I received this from Moses when I asked them if they have a replacement for the L-1000.

 

Moses has a square heel version of our 21 fret MM-144 neck for your bass' application. It costs $369.75.

 

Please let me know if we can get one in your hands.

 

Cheers.

 

Steve at Moses

 

At least cheaper. Still, it seems kinda high for the bass.

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I'm sure there are several. The repair is to mount the neck horizonally in a vise at the heal and attach a weighted arm to he flat section of the head to add reverse pressue on the twist. It usually takes several days and sometimes a little steam helps. Once the neck is straight, it should not be reinstalled for a week or more to let the wood settle. There is no guarantee that the twist will not reoccur over time because the wood in the neck has a weakness to resist. Lower pressure strings would help prevent it.

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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  • 3 years later...

UPDATE. Now a Zombie thread.

 

OP, a twisted and/or severe back bowed neck can be repaired by the application of a heating silicone blanket with clamping and a careful eye. A pro repairman or luthier will not guarantee this to be a permanent repair since the wood is still alive and if it wants to revert into a bow again it will. A forward bowed neck can usually be repaired by the following clamping method.

 

I did it cold. The neck was clamped into a back bow, placed 3 washers on the rod and tightened the truss rod nut. Loosened the clamp all at once and measured the relief. Did this a half dozen times increasing the clamp till the neck was set with enough deflection approx. 1/8". The neck is now mounted to the body and set the action to 6/64" at F17.

I did not leave the neck in the clamp. Don't be afraid to bend the neck. I bent this neck to the point of 1.5" several times till I got the neck to stay at a 1/8" deflection. The trick is to sock that truss rod nut down each time before removing the clamp.

 

There is plenty of space left for adjustment in the rod. I placed 3 washers on this rod each is 1mm thick and each washer provides 1 full turn for adjustment.

 

After 3 yrs the neck has not moved. The issue appears to be resolved.

 

 

 

DIY make a homebrew jig/clamp with just a few materials for the job.

 

(4) 4mm stainless steel washers at the HD. I bored them out to 10/24" so they slide on/off the truss rod. I had only used 3 washers but I have 1 left as a spare.

 

(2 or more) 4x4 rubber gaskets bought at the HD from the plumbing aisle. The purpose of the gasket is to act as a cushion between the Pine wood 2x4x4 block and the neck. The gasket will NOT harm the lacquer finish from the pressure being applied to the neck by the clamp. You can superglue multiple gaskets together to increase thickness.

 

(2) Solid rubber dampers 2x2x6". I cut them to size with a band saw. Place each at opposite ends of the fretboard at F1 and F20.

 

(1) Pine wood 4X4 or a solid steel bar that matches the full length of the neck.

 

(1) Bessey C-clamp The swivel pad moves freely to adapt to various surfaces High quality cast iron frame. Aluminium bar pipe clamp can be an efficent substitute.

 

(1) Pine wood 2x4x4. Place between clamp's swivel pad and the rubber gasket. Again, the rubber gasket is what will cushion the neck wood and lacquer finish.

 

 

 

The process is described in Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair Guide 3rd Edition.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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