rizzo9247 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I have created this list for the beginner-intermidiate bassist who is looking for a FOUR (4) string electric bass. All currency is in USD ($). I am using MusiciansFriend.com for all references. I am not affiliated with them by any means, so you can use any web site you wish. Remember, this list is just a starting point in your journey, so these basses are only suggestions! Mostly all of the items below I have played, other bass ideas are welcome. Asteriks (*) delineate personal favorites. Tip1: There is nothing like holding a bass in your hands before you buy. If possible, go to a local music store and play one that you like. You can always haggle with the salesman for a lower price, something you cannot do online. Tip2: If you find a bass you like, check out the used market such as eBay or Craig's List. Just Starting Out... Bass Packs: These are all pretty similarly priced from $150-$300. For beginners, pick something that appeals to you, because the biggest factor in starting to play an instrument is just to pick it up on a regular basis, so make sure you like the looks of it. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation/electric-bass-guitar-value-packages?N=100001+306318 I Have a Small Amp, I need a Bass... Rogue SX100B Series II - $89.99 Rogue LX200B Series II - $119.99 *Ibanez GAXB150 - 169.99 ESP LTD B-50 - $179.99 *Yamaha RBX170 - $179.99 Ibanez GSR200 - $199.99 Dean Metalman Series - $199.99 Squier Affinity Series P Bass - $179.99 Squier Affinity Series J Bass - $179.99 Ibanez GSR200FM - $239.99 Peavey Millennium BXP - $239.99 *Squier Vintage Modified Series - $249.99 - $279.99 Squier Standard P Bass - $249.99 Squier Standard J Bass - $249.99 ESP LTD B-154 - $249.99 OLP MM2 - $249.99 Ibanez SR300DX Soundgear - $279.99 OLP MM3 - $279.99 I've Had This Crappy Squier For Too Long, Now What... ESP F-104 - $299.99 Schecter Stiletto Deluxe - $349.99 Ibanez SRX500 - $349.99 (I will only list 1 Ibanez as most are in this price range $300-$600) *Yamaha RBX374 - $349.99 Peavey Zodiac BXP - $379.99 *Peavey Grind BXP NTB - $379.99 ESP LTD D-4 - $399.99 Fender Standard Precision Bass - 424.99 ESP F-254FM $439.99 *Fender Standard Jazz Bass - $449.99 Schecter Stiletto Custom - $499.99 Godin Freeway 4 - $555.00 *Tribute by G&L L-2000 Plus - $559.99 Schecter Stiletto Studio - $599.99 MTD Kingston Artist - $599.99 Fender Deluxe P Bass Special - $599.99 Peavey Cirrus BXP - $599.99 Hey, Let Me Play with the Big Boys... *Peavey Zodiac DE Scorpio Signature - $679.99 Ibanez SRX700 - $679.99 Spector Legend4 - $699.99 MTD Kingston Heir - $699.99 Fender Aerodyne Classic Precision Bass Guitar Special - $699.99 *Ibanez ATK700 - 699.99 Godin Freeway 4 Active - $745.00 *Fender Quilt-Top Jazz Bass 24 - $749.99 ESP LTD B-404SM - $799.99 *Fender Geddy Lee Jazz Bass - $799.99 Fender Highway One Jazz Bass - $799.99 Fender Highway One P Bass - $799.99 Fender Marcus Miller Jazz Bass - $999.99 *Fender American Precision Bass - $999.99 Warwick Corvette Standard Bass - $1039.00 *Fender American Jazz Bass - $1049.99 G&L JB-2 - $1200.00 Lakland Skyline 44-02 - $1259.30 *Music Man StingRay - $1299.99 Spector Euro 4 LX - $1549.99 Rickenbacker 4003 - $1600.00 Ok....If you want to know basses that are in a higher price range, you probably shouldn't be reading this list... There might be a FIVE (5) string edition coming soon... Now go shopping! -Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theTragicRich Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Looking good so far. I vote for sticky! [Carvin] XB76WF - All Walnut 6-string fretless [schecter] Stiletto Studio 5 Fretless | Stiletto Elite 5 [Ampeg] SVT3-Pro | SVT-410HLF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzo9247 Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Looking good so far. I vote for sticky! Yes, I was tempted to make this a few months back, but the last post by thistastylick made me finish it sooner. If there is anything that you disagree with, like to add, or any other comments, feel free to make them so we can create a master list for all those in the future. -Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kramer Ferrington III. Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Erm... ok, you can haggle. Any idea about what are realistic parameters for haggling? I'm not big on haggling myself, but I'm sure there's some sort of parameter, relating to the shop's markup, which I'm guessing is fairly constant. The question is useful for beginners: there is no way on Earth that you will ever be able to haggle a Tobias down to fifty bucks, but what's a realistic expectation, ballpark? Band MySpace My snazzy t-shirt empire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1111000 Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 I think 90% of the time you can immediately "haggle" off $100 to $200, depending on where you live. It's easier, I've noticed, in bigger cities and in tiny towns than in middle-sized cities where the ex-tiny towners are trying to move up and be like "the big boys"... and maybe take themselves extra seriously for that reason. Mouthful of an explanation but it's a trend I have noticed. If you want to go by markup, I think it's usually something like 15%, so knock 15% off of the price in your head and haggle for it. In this scenario a new American J would probably go for just over $1000 as opposed to $1200. I don't believe in haggling too much, though. I think it ultimately does more damage to the music store than to the factory, unless we're referring to a used instrument--which you know they got at such a low trade-in that you might as well try to haggle it down to $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcadmus Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 It depends on how the stuff is priced -- with the Internet, pricing is pretty much an open book anymore. So depending on how educated the buyer and seller are, you may or may not be able to haggle much. If the seller has priced the item competitively, there's not much wiggle room. If, on the other hand, he's high on price, you can show him pricing from eBay (for used) and ZZounds (for new) to show him how out of line he is. Either way, it pays to do the homework. "Tours widely in the southwestern tip of Kentucky" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzo9247 Posted October 10, 2007 Author Share Posted October 10, 2007 Erm... ok, you can haggle. Any idea about what are realistic parameters for haggling? Here is a great line to use, as it usually knocks off a little more money than the tax. My line usually goes, "Oh dude, I really like this bass, but it's a little too expensive. Is there anything you can do for me?" When I bought my Fender Jazz V, retail was $499. I used my line, and showed him a mark on the body from demo use, and the price was knocked down to $415. Bingo. Online however, you are not afforded this personal attention, so you pay what everyone else is paying. On the bright side, shipping and tax is usually free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moot Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I would add the Ibanez SR505 Mahogany. Active Bart system and plays like butta. G.C. price = $539 "He is to music what Stevie Wonder is to photography." getz76 I have nothing nice to say so . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 What about a list of things to look for as a beginner when you are buying your first bass? I'll start off with a few. 1. Basses have different width necks. 2. The make and type of pickups make a huge difference to the sound. 3. Basses come in Active (which require batteries to power an onboard equalizer/preamp, which enable rudimentary tone shaping) or Passive (which only have tone cut and volume controls) 4. Passive basses with two pickups usually have two distinct combinations of controls: vol, vol, tone, tone or vol, balance, tone. 5. Strings can be raised or lowered to different heights above the fretboard. You should get the shop to adjust this to your own prefernces before you agree to buy the bass. 6. Check the weight of the bass with a strap. If you anticipate playing long gigs, can you take the weight. Feel the groove internally within your own creativity. - fingertalkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5 string Mike Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 What about a list of things to look for as a beginner when you are buying your first bass? I'll start off with a few. 1. Basses have different width necks. 2. The make and type of pickups make a huge difference to the sound. 3. Basses come in Active (which require batteries to power an onboard equalizer/preamp, which enable rudimentary tone shaping) or Passive (which only have tone cut and volume controls) 4. Passive basses with two pickups usually have two distinct combinations of controls: vol, vol, tone, tone or vol, balance, tone. 5. Strings can be raised or lowered to different heights above the fretboard. You should get the shop to adjust this to your own prefernces before you agree to buy the bass. 6. Check the weight of the bass with a strap. If you anticipate playing long gigs, can you take the weight. That is a good idea. One could expand the list to include things like pickup style, (split coil, single, coil, soapbar, humbucker, etc) type of woods being lighter v. heavier, sound characteristics, string routing, all that good stuff. Granted, that is a fair amount of leg work to do, but it could help alot of beginner and intermediate people make better decisions about their gear. You could even expand the effort to amps. It sure would be useful to someone like me who is to the level now of starting to discern what makes the equipment what it is and which features provide which sounds. Mike "Political language... is designed to make lies sound truthful and murder respectable, and to give an appearance of solidity to pure wind"- George Orwell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreR1969 Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 I would add the Ibanez SR505 Mahogany. Active Bart system and plays like butta. G.C. price = $539 I have to second that vote Although I am becoming more and more enamoured with my new SRX595...a great bass for the money. As far as haggling goes....I always do. If you are buying a new bass in the $500 range, expect about $50 off the price. In the $1000 range, expect about $100. And before I buy a bass or amp I get the shop to let me take it home for a night so I can spend a little extra time checking it out, listening to it with my equipment and making sure it is what I want. Since moving to this city I have consistently bought equipment at the same store and, well, they adhere to a pretty basic concept...keep the customer happy and they will come back and spend more money. And I have. And it doesn't hurt that the sales guys are pretty cool dudes to just hang out and chat with. My doctor says I'm A.D.D. - I just like to think of it as "multi-tasking"... Ibanez SR-505 Ibanez SRX-595 (sold...) Peavey Tour 700 Hartke 8x10 Boss GT-8 multi-effects board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 1. Basses have different width necks. 2. The make and type of pickups make a huge difference to the sound. 3. Basses come in Active (which require batteries to power an onboard equalizer/preamp, which enable rudimentary tone shaping) or Passive (which only have tone cut and volume controls) 4. Passive basses with two pickups usually have two distinct combinations of controls: vol, vol, tone, tone or vol, balance, tone. 5. Strings can be raised or lowered to different heights above the fretboard. You should get the shop to adjust this to your own prefernces before you agree to buy the bass. 6. Check the weight of the bass with a strap. If you anticipate playing long gigs, can you take the weight. You should also check the size and the body proportions. If the upper body horn is very short against neck, the half and first position (i. e. the lowest notes) may be hard to reach. Welcome tendinitis among other problems. I have tried to find a bass that sounds good. Fine. Done that, been there. I have also tried to find a bass that is ergonomic, so "easy" to play or that the instrument fits me and my playing style well. I cycle a lot and fitting the bike is essential, which does not seem to be the idea among basses. So basses seem to be done with aesthetics and sometimes even with a good sound in mind. (Please, understand this sarcasm from the ergonomic viewpoint.) Now I try to figure out, how the bass could be good sounding AND ergonomic. That is why I have put my Quantum to pieces and bought several strange parts (originally for guns and bicycles and bags and instruments and...) and some wood. The project is ongoing. The question is how to make an instrument that can be modified to fit the player and minimize the possible sound degradation if the fitting affects the instrument somehow. This is not a self-evident issue. The electric bass tradition is only around 50 years old and the very few things that have been done to help the player master the sound and the playing are L. Fender's idea of a relatively small, electric bass (electric guitar like, 34" scale) and some body studies (NS-1, Klein and Ex-Factor among others). Reading: http://liutaiomottola.com/PrevPubs/BassErgonomics/BassErgonomics.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil W Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Tip number 12 Check with your spouse before buying yet another bass. http://philwbass.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5 string Mike Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Tip number 12 Check with your spouse before buying yet another bass. That should be Tip #1. Tip #13- When buying a bass when spousal consulting is required, be very careful if she says 'Do whatever you want'. It does NOT mean what you think it does. "Political language... is designed to make lies sound truthful and murder respectable, and to give an appearance of solidity to pure wind"- George Orwell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenfxj Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Tip #13- When buying a bass when spousal consulting is required, be very careful if she says 'Do whatever you want'. It does NOT mean what you think it does. Very wise, very true. It can also be phrased 'That's up to you'. Tread carefully when you hear these phrases. They are wifish for 'The last thing you need is another bass!' Push the button Frank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcr Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Bumping this, since someone just asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMPires Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Tip #13- When buying a bass when spousal consulting is required, be very careful if she says 'Do whatever you want'. It does NOT mean what you think it does. Very wise, very true. It can also be phrased 'That's up to you'. Tread carefully when you hear these phrases. They are wifish for 'The last thing you need is another bass!' Tip number 14# when in talks to the other half, regarding a new bass purchase, yes is no and no is no. Just buy it and say you borrow it from one of the forumites for indefinite time. This doesn't work for, Alembics, Spector NS, Wal, Fodera, Roscoe etc... as she will notice the fall on the bank acoount. www.myspace.com/davidbassportugal "And then the magical unicorn will come prancing down the rainbow and we'll all join hands for a rousing chorus of Kumbaya." - by davio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smelvin7 Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Thanks man, that helps alot. http://www.myspace.com/totheforgotten1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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