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Justin Havu

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Posts posted by Justin Havu

  1. Bump/Update:

     

    So, the church is on board with getting a new DP to replace our aging, crippling-to-play CP300.  However, the $1000-1500 budget has pretty much been lifted, as they really want to make sure I have a good, quality instrument to play.  So far, my requirements are that it needs to be a stage piano; as I play standing up, making it easier for me to sing.  Also, as per the main topic of this thread, it needs to have a light touch, due to my carpal tunnel surgery 5 years ago--my hands have not been the same since.  We don't want anything too lightweight, so Casio is 100% out, other than the fact that I just don't like the quality of anything they've done since the CZ-1.  Nord is also out; In my 20 years of playing professionally, I've never played a Nord I've gotten along with, plus the Fatar keybed is just terrible.

     

    I need to have 1/4" stereo outs, and built-in speakers are not important at all--I'd rather not have them, or have the ability to shut them off (the one thing I liked about the CP300.)

     

    The other big issue is that where I live, there's not really a good showroom anywhere close-by that I could stop in and really spend time with a bunch of instruments.  I don't dare walk into either of the nearby GC's as their inventory keyboard-wise has pretty much been a let-down.

  2. On 2/9/2024 at 9:55 AM, lsj said:

    Standtastic two or three tier stands, the very best in my opinion.  the most adjustable stand and rock solid, absolute no rocking.  I could never play a keyboard that is rocking on the stand.

    +1 for Standtastic.  Rock solid and can hold quite a bit of weight on the stand.  The footprint is a bit deep, but it keeps the stand from wanting to tip over. 

     

    Only issues I have are the screws that adjust the bracket lengths don't like to stay in place, so I have to really tighten them.  Also, when tearing down, make sure to go around and tighten all of the screws/wingnuts, as they tend to come loose, or worse go missing, during transport.  The supplied bag is incredibly low quality.

     

    However, once you have the heights of each tier adjusted to your liking, which probably takes the most time, it sets up and tears down in minutes.

  3. 1 hour ago, allan_evett said:

    it's a nice break - especially when dealing with some mild carpal tunnel symptoms, also  finger tip tingles. 

     

    I had carpal tunnel in both hands back in 2017.  Had surgery in 2018 in my left hand, and a cortisone shot in the right hand.  Hands are good now, but they haven't really been the same since.  Probably the main reason why I can't stand most modern weighted/hammer actions.  Lol

  4. 9 minutes ago, mynameisdanno said:

    For your requirements, I'd definitely give the Kawai ES120 a shot.  Haven't tried it myself (I need 5-pin MIDI out) but I really like the feel of the ES110.

     

    If I wind up giving a Kawai a try, I might go for the 520.  While not having MIDI out wouldn't really be a deal-breaker, it'd be nice to have if I ever needed it.

     

    I'm almost leaning towards the CK88.  I remember liking it to an extent when I tried it at a GC back in May of last year.  However, the morons at GC had it sitting on a set of angled brackets, which should be absolutely prohibited when displaying any hammer/weighted action keyboard, especially if any part of the mechanism relys on gravity to any extent.

    • Like 2
  5. I thought the RH3 was, and still is, a heavy action, until I laid hands on a P515.  That action was virtually unplayable. 

     

    The problem I have with the Yamaha GHS, is it's very inconsistant across the different models.  Some feel a bit heavier to the touch than others, and where I live, there's no real showroom around to A/B a bunch of them.

     

    IIRC, the CP300's graded action really isn't a true graded action--it's split into three sections: heavy on the bottom, medium in the middle, light on the top, and it just uses three different hammer weights to achieve this.  One idea would be to swap all the heavy and medium hammers with light ones, but even the light hammers feel a bit heavy.  I also don't think it's much help that they slopped a bunch of white grease in the keybed as well.  Lol

  6. Korg RH3 always felt really heavy to me, no matter what model they threw that action in.  I remember working for a Korg dealer from 2004 to 2011 and trying the SV1 when that first came out.  Neither the store owner or I were impressed enough to stock it, and as far as the keybed went, it was unplayable.  IIRC it had some issues, but even after those were addressed, I never got along with it.

     

    The other thing I loved about the RD-1000 was I could play near the rear of the keybed with little resistance, which comes in handy when playing stuff in #/b keys.

  7. 1 hour ago, Floyd Tatum said:

    I can't really remember what the RD-1000 felt like, was it really that light of an action?

    Compared to the CP300, Korg's RH3, Fatar's TP1xx, any modern Roland, the 1000 felt nice and light under my hands.  It literally is a balanced action in that the keys, which are about as long as the piano is deep (with a weight in the back of each key), sit balanced on a long rail.  They're held in place by a series of pins about a couple inches beyond the rail.  Two big levers underneath the piano lock the keys in place for transport.

     

    To this day, I've yet to play another DP that feels as good to me as the RD-1000.

    • Like 1
  8. 46 minutes ago, CEB said:

    Does your Roland send MIDI?  Maybe a copy of Ravenscroft or … <insert piano of choice here>

     

    I thought about that.  The RD suffers from the dreaded all-notes-off CC that nearly every Roland had around the time the RD-1000 was released (1986), meaning I'd have to filter that CC with my iConnectMIDI 4+ before going to a computer or sound module.  The other thing is I'm really looking to keep the church rig to just a single board, stereo DI'd straight to our PA, no dealing with computers/external stuff.

     

    I'd be interested in trying an ES520 way more than I'd ever want to touch any Casio.  Lol

    • Like 1
  9. So last week, my beloved RD-1000's audio output finally went kaput, and after replacing the relay, which usually goes bad on these (and the MKS-20), it still was toast.

     

    Such a shame, as that was my go-to piano for Sunday morning service, as I absolutely can't tolerate the action on my church's aging CP300.  The RD had, IMO, the best action in any DP I've laid hands on over the last 20 years; smooth, light to the touch, and just easy to play.

     

    That being said, I'm hoping to convince my church to sell the CP300 (with matching furniture stand, music rest, and bench) and upgrade to something with a key bed I can tolerate.  I'm kinda leaning towards the CK88.  Played around with one last spring, and I found it playable, and a good sound to it.  I'm wondering what else might be out there within that $1K-2K range.  Oh, and anything with any Fatar TP1xx is out.  Lol

     

    As far as other features, onboard speakers aren't important at all, but I need stereo out.  I just need mainly an acoustic piano and an EP for sounds.

  10. 3 hours ago, eric said:

    When I first saw it, I had vibes of the Yamaha CP1 and Roland V-Piano...if they are going to make something this big, at least make the top of it flat to accommodate a second board. I think the Yamaha CP300 is about the only one that did this well, at least in recent years.

     

    It is a pretty nice looking instrument...just not very useful for my purposes.

     

    The main reason I still love my old trusty RD-1000.  Angled front panel, and plenty of room for a second board on top.  95 lbs. is just extra motivation for me to stay in shape.  Lol

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  11. GXP88 has aftertouch.  Haven't played that one, but I had an LX88+ which quickly got replaced with a Keylab 61 MkII.  I thought the keybed in the LX felt a bit stiff, and very uneven as far as velocity, no matter what curve I had it set to.  Also, the black key tops on the LX are at a slight backwards angle, which felt very unnatural to me.  I prefer them to be flat as on a normal acoustic piano.

    • Like 1
  12. Glad the Stage 4 worked out for you.

     

    I am not a Nord fan at all.  Every one I've ever laid hands on, I hated.  I can't connect with that brand at all.  Had to do a subbing gig in Boston last May, and suffer through playing a Piano 4 for three hours.  I could not get any of the pianos to sound the way I'm used to (CFX samples in the MODX), no matter what I did with EQ, or anything.  Hated the action, hated the interface, the experience was miserable.

    • Like 3
  13. Just got a 10thGen iPad to replace a 2019 model that took a fall off my desk.  Now, I need to connect a KeyLab 61 MkII and an AudioBox iOne.  Only way would be to use a powered hub, but which one?  I don't want to just get any old cheapo off Amazon, and I also need it to keep my iPad charged, as I do not want to risk having it die on me in the middle of a gig.

     

    Only thing I'm running right now is VB3m.  Went the iPad route only because it's way cheaper than a clonewheel.

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