Jump to content


OB Dave

Member
  • Posts

    1,332
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by OB Dave

  1. Hahahaha, so true. Well, I actually decided to give myself an extra 1/4" of margin because I'm not that great a welder. Who knows, this thing may sag after awhile. But I banged out another set at lunch and I'm pretty happy with it. It probably brings the SK-1 down about 2 inches from where it was using the K&M upper tier. I'll try it out at tonight's gig. For now I'm just using 3M bumpon rubber feet. http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/standb2.jpg http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/standb3.jpg http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/standb4.jpg
  2. So, this thread has been rattling around in my head for awhile. Awhile back I bought the K&M 18950 and some accessories, as described here. What's nice about this stand and the accessories is that there are lots of ways to configure it. But once you have the stand configured, all the knobs and such get to be rather fussy. And the tubing used on the second tier supports has a very large diameter, and this diameter limits how low the upper key board can be. My thought was, what if I welded up something super simple that was just the right height, so no adjustments possible, and make it out of smaller tubing so the keyboards can be closer together? For larger gigs I use a Stage 2 compact for pianos and synth, and then an SK-1 up above for organ. I would like to have the organ manual as low and as far forward 99% of the time, but be able to slide it back occasionanly to access the Nord's control panel. So I've been very interested in what Mate Stubb and Daddyg3042 are doing with the sliding top layer. I'm thinking of doing something similar but much simpler. Instead of having an actual sliding mechanism, just have a long flat surface that I can slide the SK-1 back and forth on. The trick will be to find a material to put on top of the bar that provides enough friction to hold the board in place, but not so much that the board is too difficult to slide backwards. Rubber strips might do it. Awhile back I bought a ten-foot length of rectangular steel tubing, and I had a couple free hours this afternoon and decided to have a go at it with a mig welder. Here are the upper bars. Not much to it, really: http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/stands1.jpg Here's what they look like when slid into the accessory slots on the K&M and the set screws tightened down: http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/stands2.jpg Here's what the access looks like with the SK-1 slid all the way back: http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/stands3.jpg And here's a side view with it slid forward. http://www.oceanbeach.com/temp/stands4.jpg I wasn't sure how stable this long span was going to be, but it seems pretty sturdy. I don't like the height, though, and when I get a few more free hours I'ma weld up a new one where the upper support bars just barely clear the Stage 2's controls.
  3. Yep, that was it. I guess I figured this control flipped the polarity so I never messed with it. Ped(Rev), Gain=100%, Curve = 3 gives a very nice response with the FC-7. Yay!
  4. Thanks! Dunno how I missed that but I'ma give it a whirl.
  5. OK, so I'm a little late to this party, but I picked up an SK-1 awhile back. It came with an EXP 50 and I also have a couple FC-7s and EV-5s. I've started using it for bigger gigs where I have the luxury of time & space to set it up along with the Stage 2. I would prefer to use the FC-7 with the SK1. Mechanically it's the best pedal of the lot and it works great with the Stage 2. But the curve is wrong for the SK-1 - everything happens in the first 25% of pedal travel and it sorta flattens out after that. The curve on the EXP 50 is better, though still not ideal, and the EXP 50 physically has much less travel. I don't see a menu item anywhere to change or select the expression pedal pot curve. Has anyone figured out a way to get decent performance out of an FC-7?
  6. Wow. Wow. Beyond awesome. All the way down to the details, it's just beautiful. But you know, CEB is right. Those are too nice to leave the house. For gigs you're going to have to make another one with a couple big gouges, a cracked halfmoon switch, and maybe a couple cigarette burns! Congratulations, they look amazing.
×
×
  • Create New...