Feel free to ask Myles

[pinkjimiphoton]

hi myles,

 

i contacted stew mac...they explained it very simply, it's like this (as you state above) think of the pickups as resistances.

 

when you parallel resistances, you get half the value...

 

so...

 

if each pickup is 14k, and the bridge and neck are on at once in parallel, that's a 7 k load.

 

if each neck is on, this again parallels the load...now down to 3.5 k...hence why the volume drop is so substantial...it's going from 14k if one pickup is on to 3.5k if both necks are on (or somewhere between 3.5 and 7 k, depending on which pickups are on).

 

stew mac says that's just the way it is. i COULD make the guitar active, and use a buffer on each side of the switch i imagine, but it's probably not worth it.

 

thanks bud, i really appreciate the time and help!!

[myles_rose]

You are welcome.

 

I would just select either neck and not have any interactive position. You can only play one neck at a time anyway

[Caevan O’Shite]

Say, Myles-

 

I had previously been under the impression that my Carvin Vintage 33 combo was cathode-biased, but have recently discovered that

 

(A) upon opening it up, it is apparently "fixed-bias" with a bias-pot and cathodes going to ground with nothing in-between

 

and

 

(B) it does not seem to quite match up with the schematics that Carvin sent me years ago.

 

It DOES have the model name "Vintage 33" screened on the back of the chassis... unlike some iterations of the 33, it has an effects-loop, compensated direct-out, and their active "Presence"-control on the back... ?

 

ANYWAYS, I've been trying to figure out if I can just go ahead and use the recommended methods and specs given for biasing Carvin's "Vintage" series Bel Air/Nomad amps (the Vintage 33 is vaguely mentioned at one point)... any tips or recommendations?

[myles_rose]

Just follow Carvin's procedure.

[Caevan O’Shite]

Just follow Carvin's procedure.

 

I think that the Vintage 33 was the best of that line, and it got the least support, promotion, information... It seems to be the hardest to get solid info on!

[Jim_L]

Hey Myles, i was directed here by other forum members.

Is there a way to access the amps software to tweak pot settings? L6's forums for the S3 seem to be dead (or in a coma at least). It'd be nice to be able to plug the amp into my computer and adjust the pot settings as i sometimes wonder who set the ranges of the B/M/T pot settings of the amp...;>)

 

It'd also be nice to set the channel volumes preset to a lower setting so i stop blowing out windows changing between amp presets...;>)

[SmithGrind]

I have what I believe is a 1967 Fender Jag (it was a gift) and I was wondering what kind of strings you'd suggest I use on it??

http://homepage.mac.com/ryancrase/filechute/13933_211797406326_707301326_4590472_5452024_n.jpg

[myles_rose]

Strings are totally personal preference and taste. The guitar is lovely and it is pretty pricy in this color and condition.

 

I would use 10s as these have a 24" scale length rather than the 25.5" normal Fender so there is less tension on the strings (easier to bend notes!) 10s will be lighter than 9s on a Strat. Scale length of Gibson is 24.5" to 24.75" so these are even shorter than Gibson.

 

Very fun guitars and this one looks very cool.

 

If you want to see what these can go for they may have one or more (or can answer questions) at www.frettedamericana.com David Brass over there is a great resource.

 

[SmithGrind]

Myles,

 

Thanks so much and I'm taking your advice, as I'm a total novice player. The story of that guitar is unreal. Most people wouldn't believe it......

I'll snap a better couple of photos for you. The guitar has some normal wear, but it's in pretty decent shape.

[myles_rose]

Novice or expert, you have a wonderful guitar in your hands and it is one you can learn on and play for decades, hand down to kids and grandkids as the decades pass and just smile every time you pick it up.

 

Don't sell it or trade it. If you think you want to make a change then put it away, work to raise the money and buy something else. In the end you will be very happy you kept it.

 

[WaterMan]

Hey Myles,

 

I recently got a Carr Vincent. Great amp, but I find it a little bright. Other than the obvious tone controls (which I find myself wanting to turn WAY down) is there a tube suggestion for taming brightness, ideally while adding some earlier breakup?

 

Thanks in advance.

[myles_rose]

What tubes are currently in the amp; type and brand? Let me know the position of each as well as tone will come from one area and breakup can come from more than one area which will also include the phase inverter.

[WaterMan]

Preamp tubes are EH: all 12AX7 except V2 inverter which is 12AT7. Power tubes are made in Russia Svetlana ("C" logo?) 6L6 GC.

[WaterMan]

Sorry, the AT7 in V2 is reverb drive tube not inverter.

[myles_rose]

You have some pretty nice stuff in there especially the output tubes if they are =C=.

 

If you use a long plate in V1 in place of the short plate EH it may tame the brightness a little. I would go NOS and talk to somebody about finding an NOS RCA or Sylvania that was used in the Fender tolex era. Those amps were articulate and could be a bit bright with some guitars and the longer plate (medium plate actually to some) worked great in these amps.

 

Some good folks I trust (but others here may have good ideas) are:

 

www.kcanostubes.com

www.dougstubes.com

www.tubedepot.com

 

Steve Carr builds spectacular amps. I cannot think of any amp of his I have ever seen or played that wasn't terrific. You may not have an issue with the amp. Sometimes having great harmonic content in a great amp is something that many folks don't get to experience in so many of today's amp designs

 

[WaterMan]

Thanks Myles. They are =C=. Is that Svetlana? I'll try the long plate in V1. My other amps are 65 Amps London, Victoria Regal, and Mesa Lonestar. The Carr is the brightest amp, but you're right, it's fantastic.

[myles_rose]

Yes, =C= (winged C) is the REAL Svetlana, the St. Petersburg one, the SED one and not the "Svetlana" logo that Sovtek purchased and puts on some of their tubes.

 

You've got the real deal ... in amps too

 

[haywired2]

Hi Myles, I was wondering if you know of any insurance companies that handle liability insurance for groups. One of the cities here in So.Cal. asked if we were covered.

 

Thanks

Scott

[steve f]

Myles,

 

I have a Laney Supergroup Session 50 amp. It's been sitting for about 2 1/2 years and I'd like to bring it up slowly using a Staco variac I have. What is the procedure for doing this? It was checked out by a competent amp tech when I first got it and everything was fine, all resistors, caps, etc were ok, it's just been sitting for awhile.

[myles_rose]

Steve,

 

No set procedure, just bring it to operating voltage over ten seconds or so (not critical) and all will be fine. You are just trying to avoid an initial surge from 0 to 120 volts. The caps were already formed properly when the amp was built so all is fine in that respect.

 

Actually, for a few years you are generally fine and dandy just turning the amp on and the odds are well in your favor there will be no problems.

 

 

[Super bird]

Myles, I have a 65 amps London pro. I was wondering if there were any improvements I could make to the preamp or power amp tubes? Currently it has a new production tung sol ef806, jj ecc803, tung sol 12ax7 phase Inverter. JJ el84 power tubes.

 

I believe these were what it came with from the factory, is it best to leave these in or use some nos options? Thanks!

[myles_rose]

Keep the stock power tubes, they are great.

 

On V2, the 803S, I like an NOS medium plate such as an RCA, GE, Sylvania or most any tube from the 60s. The Mullard is also very nice but more pricy. The Brimar is also great but more expensive than many of the great USA stuff.

 

www.dougstubes.com used to have some very nice and not very expensive Tesla EF86s. Maybe check with Doug. The stock "tung sol" EF806 is a pretty decent tube but I prefer NOS for tone and reliability.

 

[renips]

This is one place you can post amp questions and I will try to help.

 

 

I am putting this post up here, so if you have a question or have a comment, just post a comment here and when I see the email notification I will answer back here as quickly as I am able. If I don't get to it in a day or two, please forgive me.

 

I generally try to get to this in the early morning or later evening, but while we are testing and destroying tubes (which takes time while they "bake"),I try to get onto this.

 

Ashley Danielle is the gal in my avatar and the head of Guitar Amplifier Blueprinting Artist Relations. Ashley is also the girl biasing the Fender Deluxe Reverb in my avatar. Ashley was recently in the Slash and Billy Idol videos.

 

 

Regards,

 

Myles

 

Myles - I need some guidance please. I own a Marshall HAZE40C. I purchased the SAG MHG pre amp tubes.

Based on the numbers written on the boxes which tubes should go in V1,V2 and V3

 

They are as follows

 

94.3-89.4 ecc83s

85-85 ecc83s

MPI 12ax7

 

I know you are very familar with these

 

Are these the gain ratings? Which order should I place in the amp?

 

Thanks

 

Mark

[myles_rose]

Mark,

 

Put them in the order you have them listed. The one with the highest number generally does best in the first gain stage, V1.

 

The MPI is the phase inverter and will be the last preamp tube, the one generally farthest from the input jack and most close to the output tubes.

 

If you have any other questions feel free to contact me.

 

[Caevan O’Shite]

I own a Marshall HAZE40C. I purchased the SAG MHG pre amp tubes...

 

Hey, renips, congratulations, I think you're going to be very pleased- I purchased that same SAG MHG Kit myself, and it made a whole new amp out of my little Carvin Vintage 33! ESPECIALLY the MPI- what an improvement!

 

[renips]

Mark,

 

Put them in the order you have them listed. The one with the highest number generally does best in the first gain stage, V1.

 

The MPI is the phase inverter and will be the last preamp tube, the one generally farthest from the input jack and most close to the output tubes.

 

If you have any other questions feel free to contact me.

 

Thanks Myles. I appreciate the response. This along with the Vintage 30 I replaced the stock speaker with should be fun. It was fun before but tweaking tone is what it is all about. I will let you all know how it goes

[myles_rose]

Happy Playing and have a great holiday season.

[renips]

Happy Playing and have a great holiday season.

 

Myles,

 

I just received another SAG MHG trio with the numbers

85.6-90

89-89

MPI

 

I know the MPI goes in V3.

 

Which order do the other two go? The reason I am asking because the 89-89 is the caveat to the generally higher number goes in V1. It always seems that one of the tubes has the same paired number. The one trio I asked previously was 85-85. I guess I am needing to know what the numbers are referring to. Are these tubes double triodes and are the numbers rating each part of the tube? My understanding is that one part of the tube would be for the clean and one for the gain. Is this correct? The one tube with the balance of 89-89 is throwing me. I need to know for this set where the 89-89 should go.

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays to you

[myles_rose]

These should be marked V1, V2 and MPI on the stickers. They are not? If they were made by me they were.

 

89-89 just happens to be matched as far as actual gain but the traces may not have matched over the entire range of the tube for other factors so it is not an MPI.

 

You can use the first two tubes in this case in either position depending on personal taste.

 

 

[renips]

These should be marked V1, V2 and MPI on the stickers. They are not? If they were made by me they were.

 

89-89 just happens to be matched as far as actual gain but the traces may not have matched over the entire range of the tube for other factors so it is not an MPI.

 

You can use the first two tubes in this case in either position depending on personal taste.

 

 

Myles,

 

Thanks for the response. They are Not marked V1,V2,V3 on the stickers. The only one that is marked is the MPI. The other two just have the stickers and the hand written numbers.

 

Thanks