Feel free to ask Myles

[WaterMan]

Myles,

 

A couple of years ago you posted a press release of sorts regarding the Victoria Regal amp. I understand Mark is now making (or considering) a version that uses two power tubes in parallel so you can run the amp with either one or two tubes, allowing wattages from 2 watts (one 6K6) to 30 watts (two KT-88s).

 

Here's the question. Is there any way you can describe the distinctive qualities of the Regal vs. the Carr Mercury? I'm looking for clean Fendery sparkle and power tube overdrive at low volume, with reverb. The very low wattage to mid-wattage option of this new Regal is enticing as it would seem to provide some of the flexibility of the Mercury. But not having heard either I have to rely on those like yourself that can translate sonic distinction and character to words......

 

Thanks Myles.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by WaterMan:

Myles,

 

A couple of years ago you posted a press release of sorts regarding the Victoria Regal amp. I understand Mark is now making (or considering) a version that uses two power tubes in parallel so you can run the amp with either one or two tubes, allowing wattages from 2 watts (one 6K6) to 30 watts (two KT-88s).

 

Here's the question. Is there any way you can describe the distinctive qualities of the Regal vs. the Carr Mercury? I'm looking for clean Fendery sparkle and power tube overdrive at low volume, with reverb. The very low wattage to mid-wattage option of this new Regal is enticing as it would seem to provide some of the flexibility of the Mercury. But not having heard either I have to rely on those like yourself that can translate sonic distinction and character to words......

 

Thanks Myles.

I do not remember posting anything on a Regal. In fact, I do not think I have ever seen one of these amps.

 

Perhaps Mark Baier sent me something and I just forwarded it on as a post of something but I do not recall doing that.

 

But .... Victoria makes really great amps.

[Junior 1]

Hi Myles,

I looked at a used Valve Junior this weekend, but it had a low scratching sound when I turned the volume control. Is that just dirt in the control or something else. It was one of the older ones, but the hum was ok.

Thanks

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Junior 1:

Hi Myles,

I looked at a used Valve Junior this weekend, but it had a low scratching sound when I turned the volume control. Is that just dirt in the control or something else. It was one of the older ones, but the hum was ok.

Thanks

Dirty pot.

 

Spray it with some high quality tuner cleaner/lub. Do not use just cleaner. DO NOT USE WD-40.

[gundog]

Just found a quad of old peavey branded made in USA 6l6GC's. Any idea who manufacturd tubes for Peavey?

[gundog]

Myles- Starting to play again after a 10/15 year break and need to retube my old Boogie Super 60 MK1.(ser#A425) Currently has 2 very old RCA 6l6's and 3 RCA 7025's.Also have a spare GE 12AT7 but I'm not sure what position this might be suitable for. I'm sure the power tubes are probably bad and not matched. 7025's are probably OK and I would like to reuse them. Any recommendations for new tubes that will also tone down the volume.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by gundog:

Just found a quad of old peavey branded made in USA 6l6GC's. Any idea who manufacturd tubes for Peavey?

Many people.

 

Send me a photo.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by gundog:

Myles- Starting to play again after a 10/15 year break and need to retube my old Boogie Super 60 MK1.(ser#A425) Currently has 2 very old RCA 6l6's and 3 RCA 7025's.Also have a spare GE 12AT7 but I'm not sure what position this might be suitable for. I'm sure the power tubes are probably bad and not matched. 7025's are probably OK and I would like to reuse them. Any recommendations for new tubes that will also tone down the volume.

The AT7 is only usable if you amp has reverb as the reverb driver.

 

V1 needs a good fresh tube as V1 is worked very hard in these amps.

 

As far as toning it down ... you cannot if stock as these are very loud amps and have a fixed bias. If you have a tech install an adjustable bias (very easy and fast and should only be charged as a nominal bench charge) then you can drop down to a 1-3 range 6L6 tubes biased at 30mA and have the amp break up a little sooner.

[rw2003]

Hi Myles,

 

I have a Marshall JCM800 50 watt (2205) half stack that I've owned since I bought it new back in 1982. I used it for practice and gigs for a couple of years back then and played it hard. I quit playing in bands in the mid80s and the amp has lead a quiet life since then. I do play through it once in a while but never for too long.

 

It has all the original parts, including tubes, and has never been opened.

 

While the amp seems to be working ok, I don't think I'm getting all that I could (sound-wise both volume and tone) from it. I experiment alot with the tone and volume controls and it seems like I always need to have the gain turned up at least 2/3 of the way to get anything good with some volume.

 

Wondering if i need to have it re-tubbed after all these years?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. Also, what brand tubes would be good replacements? Are the power tubes EL34s or 6550s? I'm looking for a good hard rock sound, sort of a Slash-like tone if I had to say something.

 

Thanks very much!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rw2003:

Hi Myles,

 

I have a Marshall JCM800 50 watt (2205) half stack that I've owned since I bought it new back in 1982. I used it for practice and gigs for a couple of years back then and played it hard. I quit playing in bands in the mid80s and the amp has lead a quiet life since then. I do play through it once in a while but never for too long.

 

It has all the original parts, including tubes, and has never been opened.

 

While the amp seems to be working ok, I don't think I'm getting all that I could (sound-wise both volume and tone) from it. I experiment alot with the tone and volume controls and it seems like I always need to have the gain turned up at least 2/3 of the way to get anything good with some volume.

 

Wondering if i need to have it re-tubbed after all these years?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. Also, what brand tubes would be good replacements? Are the power tubes EL34s or 6550s? I'm looking for a good hard rock sound, sort of a Slash-like tone if I had to say something.

 

Thanks very much!

Your amp is so far beyond a retube it's not even funny.

 

Slash .... E34LS #6-7 biased at 38mA with a SAG-MHG kit for the front end.

 

See the GT website and .....

 

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/assets/1769_gt_adamday_05.jpg

[rw2003]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by rw2003:

Hi Myles,

 

I have a Marshall JCM800 50 watt (2205) half stack that I've owned since I bought it new back in 1982. I used it for practice and gigs for a couple of years back then and played it hard. I quit playing in bands in the mid80s and the amp has lead a quiet life since then. I do play through it once in a while but never for too long.

 

It has all the original parts, including tubes, and has never been opened.

 

While the amp seems to be working ok, I don't think I'm getting all that I could (sound-wise both volume and tone) from it. I experiment alot with the tone and volume controls and it seems like I always need to have the gain turned up at least 2/3 of the way to get anything good with some volume.

 

Wondering if i need to have it re-tubbed after all these years?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. Also, what brand tubes would be good replacements? Are the power tubes EL34s or 6550s? I'm looking for a good hard rock sound, sort of a Slash-like tone if I had to say something.

 

Thanks very much!

Your amp is so far beyond a retube it's not even funny.

 

Slash .... E34LS #6-7 biased at 38mA with a SAG-MHG kit for the front end.

 

See the GT website and .....

 

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/assets/1769_gt_adamday_05.jpg

Thanks for the info.. I followed the links and started reading up on tubes in general. I have a long way to go!!!

 

Please explain what you mean by "Your amp is so far beyond a retube it's not even funny." So the new tubes are just the first step? What else should I be considering?

 

Thanks again.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rw2003:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by rw2003:

Hi Myles,

 

I have a Marshall JCM800 50 watt (2205) half stack that I've owned since I bought it new back in 1982. I used it for practice and gigs for a couple of years back then and played it hard. I quit playing in bands in the mid80s and the amp has lead a quiet life since then. I do play through it once in a while but never for too long.

 

It has all the original parts, including tubes, and has never been opened.

 

While the amp seems to be working ok, I don't think I'm getting all that I could (sound-wise both volume and tone) from it. I experiment alot with the tone and volume controls and it seems like I always need to have the gain turned up at least 2/3 of the way to get anything good with some volume.

 

Wondering if i need to have it re-tubbed after all these years?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. Also, what brand tubes would be good replacements? Are the power tubes EL34s or 6550s? I'm looking for a good hard rock sound, sort of a Slash-like tone if I had to say something.

 

Thanks very much!

Your amp is so far beyond a retube it's not even funny.

 

Slash .... E34LS #6-7 biased at 38mA with a SAG-MHG kit for the front end.

 

See the GT website and .....

 

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/assets/1769_gt_adamday_05.jpg

Thanks for the info.. I followed the links and started reading up on tubes in general. I have a long way to go!!!

 

Please explain what you mean by "Your amp is so far beyond a retube it's not even funny." So the new tubes are just the first step? What else should I be considering?

 

Thanks again.

Your output set is long overdue for replacement. The phase inverter tube should also be replaced and the other preamp tube checked (they are probably fine).

 

Clean and spray all the jacks and pots.

[davidm]

Greetings,

 

I have a Rivera Quiana Studio thatI purchased new a little over a year ago, which suffers from power drops and a distorted-sounding clean channel. I've re-tubed (preamp tubes are GT-12AX7Ms and power tubes are Sovtek WXTs), but the problem persists. The power tube bias is set at 35mA, which Paul Rivera verified as okay. It's gotten a clean bill of health each time it's been checked out both by my tech as well as the dealer.

 

Any ideas of what else could be wrong?

 

Thanks for any ideas you might have--Dave

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by davidm:

Greetings,

 

I have a Rivera Quiana Studio thatI purchased new a little over a year ago, which suffers from power drops and a distorted-sounding clean channel. I've re-tubed (preamp tubes are GT-12AX7Ms and power tubes are Sovtek WXTs), but the problem persists. The power tube bias is set at 35mA, which Paul Rivera verified as okay. It's gotten a clean bill of health each time it's been checked out both by my tech as well as the dealer.

 

Any ideas of what else could be wrong?

 

Thanks for any ideas you might have--Dave

If the tubes are good and Paul said the amp checked out I could not really hazzard a guess ... it could be before the signal gets to the amp.

 

Your house voltage?

 

I would need to see the amp on a bench.

[davidm]

Myles,

 

Would you recommend trying a power conditioner or voltage regulator? My electrician says the incoming voltage is fine (125v), but I suspect it could be something external as well. The only strange thing is that my previous two Marshalls did not have this problem.

 

Thanks Myles

[Dan1122]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by Dan1122:

Myles,

 

I have a question regarding the "reduced" power modes available on some Rivera amp models like the Fandango and Knucklehead. The ability to reduce the power by at least half seems appealing to me as it would address my problem of very rarely needing a 50W amplifier. What can one expect in terms of the tonal qualities of this type of setup when running at a reduced power level? Is it possible that this type of configuration would make a good practice/small club amp while still having more than enough power to keep up with a loud drummer when needed?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Dan

The Rivera amps that have this feature are great at it ....

 

They have two options in the same amp for the most part ....

 

One is lowering the plate voltages and the other is switching from pentode to triode mode.

 

They all work great and sound great.

 

In my own TBR-1M I can switch between these wattages per side ...

 

60/30/15/8 by using the low/hi and pentode/triode switches.

Myles,

 

Are you familiar with the Rivera M-60 and Fandango amplifiers and if so could you detail the significant differences in these models with respect to tone. I have narrowed my search to these two models, however, I have not had the opportunity to hear the M-60 in person. If the construction is similar the 8W capability of the M-60 would be a deciding factor for me.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dan

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by davidm:

Myles,

 

Would you recommend trying a power conditioner or voltage regulator? My electrician says the incoming voltage is fine (125v), but I suspect it could be something external as well. The only strange thing is that my previous two Marshalls did not have this problem.

 

Thanks Myles

I always use a Furman system on anything that travels where the line condition is not known.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dan1122:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by Dan1122:

Myles,

 

I have a question regarding the "reduced" power modes available on some Rivera amp models like the Fandango and Knucklehead. The ability to reduce the power by at least half seems appealing to me as it would address my problem of very rarely needing a 50W amplifier. What can one expect in terms of the tonal qualities of this type of setup when running at a reduced power level? Is it possible that this type of configuration would make a good practice/small club amp while still having more than enough power to keep up with a loud drummer when needed?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Dan

The Rivera amps that have this feature are great at it ....

 

They have two options in the same amp for the most part ....

 

One is lowering the plate voltages and the other is switching from pentode to triode mode.

 

They all work great and sound great.

 

In my own TBR-1M I can switch between these wattages per side ...

 

60/30/15/8 by using the low/hi and pentode/triode switches.

Myles,

 

Are you familiar with the Rivera M-60 and Fandango amplifiers and if so could you detail the significant differences in these models with respect to tone. I have narrowed my search to these two models, however, I have not had the opportunity to hear the M-60 in person. If the construction is similar the 8W capability of the M-60 would be a deciding factor for me.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dan

Dan,

 

They are very different amp with very different feature sets. The M-60 if made today would be very pricy due to features like Pcomp and Focus.

 

If you look on my website in my equipment area that has the pictures you will see a custom Fandango 100 watt head (normally they are not heads) with 6L6's (normally EL-34's) running a 4x10 Rivera CS410 cab and Sub1 Rivera Subwoofer system.

 

They are both great amps and in the end you will not go wrong with either one but in the end it is user taste and feature set.

[picker]

Originally posted by Picker:

Originally posted by myles111:

All you have to do is put a comment in the order comment section asking for "number 6 only please". If you say you are a client of mine they give the order to me and I will hand pick a set of 6's and trace match them.

Very cool, thanx much. I'll put the order in tonight.

Myles, the tubes arrived last week, and they made little or no noticeable difference. So, I decided to switch the preamp tubes(all 12AX7, by the way) around to see what would happen, and that made a big difference. With them re-arranged in one sequence, the volume dropped to almost nothing. In another sequence, the amp went back the grungy, unclean sound it had developed. In a third sequence, the amp sounded like it did before the trouble started.

 

I got back in touch with Joe Naylor at Reverend, and told him what I had discovered with the tube switching. He had me send the amp back to them for a look-see. I gotta say that the folks at Reverend have been marvelous. I think Naylor is the head guy, and he's dealt with me personally everytime I have called or emailed them.

 

So, I am currently in "wait & see" mode. I'll let you know what the final result is.

 

In any event, thank you for taking care of the new tubes at your end, and for all the information you gave me.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Picker:

Originally posted by Picker:

Originally posted by myles111:

All you have to do is put a comment in the order comment section asking for "number 6 only please". If you say you are a client of mine they give the order to me and I will hand pick a set of 6's and trace match them.

Very cool, thanx much. I'll put the order in tonight.

Myles, the tubes arrived last week, and they made little or no noticeable difference. So, I decided to switch the preamp tubes(all 12AX7, by the way) around to see what would happen, and that made a big difference. With them re-arranged in one sequence, the volume dropped to almost nothing. In another sequence, the amp went back the grungy, unclean sound it had developed. In a third sequence, the amp sounded like it did before the trouble started.

 

I got back in touch with Joe Naylor at Reverend, and told him what I had discovered with the tube switching. He had me send the amp back to them for a look-see. I gotta say that the folks at Reverend have been marvelous. I think Naylor is the head guy, and he's dealt with me personally everytime I have called or emailed them.

 

So, I am currently in "wait & see" mode. I'll let you know what the final result is.

 

In any event, thank you for taking care of the new tubes at your end, and for all the information you gave me.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Good luck and hope it all gets resolved fast.

[jbro]

Hey Miles,

2 questions? I finally got my Groove Tubes Soul-O 45 off ebay and the handle is starting to break. Do you know if GT sells replacements? Also, will 7581A's work in this amp? I'm using the amp for soul $ R&B music and need a vintage, warm, clean tone that can cut through an 11 piece band. Thanks!

 

JB

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by jbro:

Hey Miles,

2 questions? I finally got my Groove Tubes Soul-O 45 off ebay and the handle is starting to break. Do you know if GT sells replacements? Also, will 7581A's work in this amp? I'm using the amp for soul $ R&B music and need a vintage, warm, clean tone that can cut through an 11 piece band. Thanks!

 

JB

You can use 7581's as they are in the 6L6 family .... bias at 30mA.

 

On the handle ... call Patrick toll free at GT on Tuesday at 1-800-459-5687 and I am pretty sure this can be done easily.

[jbro]

Thanks Miles. You rule.

[WaterMan]

Myles,

 

Which cab would you use for a 12" Celestion Blue, primarily for blues playing? I'm looking for a manufacturer recommendation; tweed covering option would be nice but not mandatory.

 

Thanks.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by WaterMan:

Myles,

 

Which cab would you use for a 12" Celestion Blue, primarily for blues playing? I'm looking for a manufacturer recommendation; tweed covering option would be nice but not mandatory.

 

Thanks.

There are many good folks out there. Open back is what you want.

 

Go to www.pierson-amps.com and he can make you something that is killer. Rick Gessner at Valvetrain is another great one as is Jeff Earl at Jdesigns. All these folks are in the great amp makers area of my GAB website.

[photios]

Hey Myles,

 

I need your input on which power amp would be best for my playing style and application:

 

 

I'm in an ACDC tribute band and I'm using an Egnater M4 preamp with the Plexi module...so it seems like the 2/50/2 with the EL34's would be the natural choice, but, for my playing style I think I might prefer the more articulate and punchy sound of the KT88's with more low end...any thoughts?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by photios:

Hey Myles,

 

I need your input on which power amp would be best for my playing style and application:

 

 

I'm in an ACDC tribute band and I'm using an Egnater M4 preamp with the Plexi module...so it seems like the 2/50/2 with the EL34's would be the natural choice, but, for my playing style I think I might prefer the more articulate and punchy sound of the KT88's with more low end...any thoughts?

I really cannot help here. This is very much user taste. It is much like you asking me what I think you should have for dinner. KT88's don't have more low end generically ... it is the mass of the output transformer and many other factors.

 

A 30 watt Scott EL84 hi fi amp and a Big McIntosh KT88 amp both were flat from 20-20K It is more than just the output tube type.

[WaterMan]

Myles,

 

I'm boning-up in preparation for my next (ideally last for a while) amp purchase, and have learned a great deal from a variety of sources -- including info on your website; it's a great resource, thanks very much.

 

While I understand that actualy hearing something (an amp) is the best way to evaluate it with respect you one's preferences, given that that is not always a readily available option and also given the fact that I would like to understand what it is I'm hearing when I hear it, I have the following question:

 

How would you describe the tonal distinction between a single-ended Class A amp and a push-pull Class A when transitioning to breakup or overdrive? I've heard many say that a push-pull configuration results in a much more musical or pleasant sounding power tube overdrive, especially through the transition from clean to overdrive. Thoughts?

 

Thanks again.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by WaterMan:

Myles,

 

I'm boning-up in preparation for my next (ideally last for a while) amp purchase, and have learned a great deal from a variety of sources -- including info on your website; it's a great resource, thanks very much.

 

While I understand that actualy hearing something (an amp) is the best way to evaluate it with respect you one's preferences, given that that is not always a readily available option and also given the fact that I would like to understand what it is I'm hearing when I hear it, I have the following question:

 

How would you describe the tonal distinction between a single-ended Class A amp and a push-pull Class A when transitioning to breakup or overdrive? I've heard many say that a push-pull configuration results in a much more musical or pleasant sounding power tube overdrive, especially through the transition from clean to overdrive. Thoughts?

 

Thanks again.

True single ended class A amps are generally single tube low power amps. Thnk of Tweed Champ etc.

[picker]

Originally posted by myles111:

I got back in touch with Joe Naylor at Reverend, and told him what I had discovered with the tube switching...I'll let you know what the final result is.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Good luck and hope it all gets resolved fast. [/QB]

 

I heard from Joe Naylor, and he said:

 

Mike,

 

It's all working good, will ship back tomorrow. Note the following:

 

1) Second stage (2nd from right, if facing back of amp) EH 12AX7 was bad. I replaced it with a Sovtek 12AX7WC. I recommend sticking with a Sovtek in that particular position. The 2nd stage is hard on EH for some reason.

 

2) The speaker mounting screws were very loose, causing distortion. I tightened it up, and it got louder and cleaner.

 

3) I moved your 12AT7 from the reverb stage to the 1st stage. This made the gain cleaner. The 1st stage is the most sensitive stage to different tube types/brands.

 

4) I put a EH 12AX7 in the reverb stage. This brought the reverb level back up to stock.

 

The amp is on it's way back, apparently with all problems solved. Any ideas on why a Sovtek 12AX7 would last longer in the second stage of that amp than an EH 12AX7s?