Feel free to ask Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by ENGLFanboy:

Hi Myles,

I am not sure if you are still active in your forums but I will take a chance.

I have stumbled across yours amazing posts and have not been able to stop reading them. Thank you as you have already helped me.

 

I do have a couple of questions although I am not worthy of your kindness. As like others, I am a refugee from HC.

 

#1: What is the layout of the preamp section of a ENGL Blackmore? I am guessing that V1 is input and clean gain.

V2 is 'lead' or 'crunch'gain.

V3 is loop and possibly part of PI

V4 is PI and driver

(I am assuming 'PI' means phase inverter).

 

Reading the little info in the manual about selection criteria, ( http://www.engl-amps.com/manuals/E650-II-om.pdf )this may be more correct:

V1 = input and possibly clean

V2 = clean

V3 = 'lead' crunch

V4 = loop, driver, and PI

 

I am most likely wrong on both guesses, as I usually am about these things.

 

#2: My big problem is similar to a post you have already addressed. Below is part of the post that pertains to my problem:

Originally posted by deke1000:

Last summer, I purchased a 1979-80 Hiwatt DR504 (the "Custom 50" fifty watt, 2 input model from the Joyce era). Unfortunately, since then I've had issues with it. The main one being that after 15 or 20 minutes of moderate playing, the sound "dissipates" to a feeble that you can talk comfortably over.

 

Sometimes this is temporary -- and the amp will "catch its breath" and suddenly rejuvenate back to Hiwatt roar. Other times it won't, but will go back to normal after about 30 seconds of a rest on stand-by.

I have the same issue with my 2 month old ENGL Blackmore, only with mine, its like the standby gets engaged. Sound dose not fade, it just suddenly dies after 20-30 minutes. After reading your reply to the above quoted post, I guess maybe it is a PI issue? My ignorant self didnt mark which socket the stock ECC83s were in, and all 4 ENGL stamped stock look the same. So maybe I

put an unbalanced tube in V4. Would that be it?

 

P.S. All the amps I have had have the same issue as described in the quote above, to some degree.

I live in an older house with polorized ungrounded outlets. I always thought that this was the culprit. What are, if any, issues with this?

 

Thank you for helping me. I have asked this question several times at HC with no helpful replies.

Al

I would check your electrical supply.

[ENGLFanboy]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by ENGLFanboy:

Hi Myles,

I am not sure if you are still active in your forums but I will take a chance.

I have stumbled across yours amazing posts and have not been able to stop reading them. Thank you as you have already helped me.

 

I do have a couple of questions although I am not worthy of your kindness. As like others, I am a refugee from HC.

 

#1: What is the layout of the preamp section of a ENGL Blackmore? I am guessing that V1 is input and clean gain.

V2 is 'lead' or 'crunch'gain.

V3 is loop and possibly part of PI

V4 is PI and driver

(I am assuming 'PI' means phase inverter).

 

Reading the little info in the manual about selection criteria, ( http://www.engl-amps.com/manuals/E650-II-om.pdf )this may be more correct:

V1 = input and possibly clean

V2 = clean

V3 = 'lead' crunch

V4 = loop, driver, and PI

 

I am most likely wrong on both guesses, as I usually am about these things.

 

#2: My big problem is similar to a post you have already addressed. Below is part of the post that pertains to my problem:

Originally posted by deke1000:

Last summer, I purchased a 1979-80 Hiwatt DR504 (the "Custom 50" fifty watt, 2 input model from the Joyce era). Unfortunately, since then I've had issues with it. The main one being that after 15 or 20 minutes of moderate playing, the sound "dissipates" to a feeble that you can talk comfortably over.

 

Sometimes this is temporary -- and the amp will "catch its breath" and suddenly rejuvenate back to Hiwatt roar. Other times it won't, but will go back to normal after about 30 seconds of a rest on stand-by.

I have the same issue with my 2 month old ENGL Blackmore, only with mine, its like the standby gets engaged. Sound dose not fade, it just suddenly dies after 20-30 minutes. After reading your reply to the above quoted post, I guess maybe it is a PI issue? My ignorant self didnt mark which socket the stock ECC83s were in, and all 4 ENGL stamped stock look the same. So maybe I

put an unbalanced tube in V4. Would that be it?

 

P.S. All the amps I have had have the same issue as described in the quote above, to some degree.

I live in an older house with polorized ungrounded outlets. I always thought that this was the culprit. What are, if any, issues with this?

 

Thank you for helping me. I have asked this question several times at HC with no helpful replies.

Al

I would check your electrical supply.

Ah ha! Thanks so much! This has been plauging me for a long time. But just to be clear, its not the amp(s)problem? It is my house power? Will using amp ungrounded damage it? Or is it just a danger to me?

Thanks again.

[BluesWithoutBlame]

Hi Myles...this is my first post to you.

I asked this on another forum as well, but then remembered you had a "sticky" thread for questions. Mine is regarding the electronics on a MIJ '69 RI strat (I THINK it is a '69 RI, definitely MIJ and strat).

 

It's kinda long, I tried to give as much precise info as I could, since this seems to be a triicky problem (to me anyway). Any help appreciated:

 

I noticed (and then realized I had been hearing it for a long time, but just hadn't focused on it) recently while working with a new pedal some static electric-like crackling. To cut to the chase, I absolutly traced it to the guitar....a MIJ Strat "60's" (I think it was 69 Remake or something). It is definitely the source of the problem.

 

Posted about this and someone mentioned grounding. So I took it apart. I ohmed out all connections that were direct, and all had 0 ohms to ground, though I should mention...I have a finicky multi-meter, and occasionally I would read infinite on some connections, but I took off the leads, put them back on and read 0 ohms. I hav ehad this happen before with this meter, so I don't think it indicates anything.

 

Anyway, I also visually inspected the whole thing....after much careful looking with a magnifying glass, I DID see a copper thread that was sort of trapped behind the (final?) winding that I see on the neck pickup that goes (looking at it from the top) from bottom left up at an angle to top right, and continues out to where the pickup leads attach. It looked "fuzzy" up on the corner...at first I thought someone scored it accidentally or something, but seems intact. I removed the one strand (it was about 3/4" long, almost coiled...). Aha...I thought. This must have been the problem.

 

I had been meaning to do two mods anyway also to this guitar so I took the oppurtunity while I had the pickguard assy. out. I added a .001mF cap in parallel with a 150k resistor to the volume pot...where switch comes in, to the wiper. Also I moved the one wire from the switch so the second tone control controls the bridge pickup instead of the middle (which is useless...for me since I always keep it on ten anyway...now I can adjust my bridge PU which needs it!).

 

Just to be thorough, I also touched up the connections that seemed "strange" on the meter, even though I believe it was the meter.

Soldered the input jack and trem ground back in place, put on the strings, and damned if the crackle is still there.

 

I noticed:

 

1) The pickup selector switch sometimes makes a similar sound...if I move it quickly to a different settting.

 

2) This is weird...the crackling builds up. I mean, if I play heavy chords or dig in (more current from the pickups) it happens more often...but it happens maybe once every 30 seconds or so...not too regular, but not continuously.

 

3) This is even weirder (until one figures it out, and then it makes perfect sense...) but even without playing much, if I let it sit, and then touch the pickup mounting screws on the BOTTOM of either the neck or middle pickup I get the crackle...exactly as a static electric discharge. If I immidiately touch it again, no noise. Has to build up. BUT this doesn't ever (so far) happen if I touch the screws on the bridge PU. Nor does it happen if I touch other ground points like the mounting screws for the PU selector switch. Yet I can ohm it out between the middle mounting screw and those other points is 0 ohms. It also happens on the neck and middle upper screws but seems less.

 

Originally, and as far as I can tell the problem hasn't changed after I did the mods. (and it sounds so GREAT otherwise...with volume down, or bridge PU when I move the tone) and originally the only "chargeup" component in the guitar was one cap that goes from one side of the second tone control to the shell of that control.

 

This seemed non-standard. At least the schematics I see on the net, usually show stock setup being that cap from one side of the FIRST tone pot to ground, but I think electronically it is the same, because there is a wire from the one tone control side, to the same side on the second tone, THEN from there to ground.

 

When I say I ohmed out all direct points, that includes the ground wires from the pickup (at the little solder bead on top to the furthest tone pot shell and points in between...both other shells) as well as the other wires.

 

Again, this builds up like static charges do. Takes some time, less if I am playing harder or chords, and I can force a static electric discharge by touching SOME of the mounting screws (forgot to mention...a couple other that only mount the pickguard to the body discharge it also!!).

 

This guitar has just a small foil area right under the switch, vol, and tone controls. I DID notice an oily feel on the bottom of the pickguard, and it seems to pick up dust..hair. I wonder if the actual pickguard could be doing this?

 

Any ideas? Any good tricks I can try to isolate or test? Should I remove all the electronics again and use spray adhesive and foil to shield the underside of the pickguard?

 

Just edited this (made it even LONGER...sorry :-)

adding this...I'm in Norway so we're 6-8 hours ahead of the US, while waiting for a reply I looked into this and other forums using search. It's probably good to have here as well, since I went into a lot of detail on this, but it seems like this might be a case of "static cling" static buildup on the actual pickguard.

Read some folks claim a temporary solution, using the "cling-free" swatches that you put in the clothes dryer and going over the pickguard with it. Next time I have some more free time, will more permanently (hopefully) fix by glueing aliminum foil (as heavy duty as I can get) on the underside of the pickguard. Will have to remove all electronics (and NO site yet I've seen mentions...it is a GREAT idea to first measure the heights both low and high string side of all three pickups before removing them!! That is, if you want to get them back where they were) first.

 

While I'm doing that will also do the same in the jack cavity and trem cavity.

 

One followup question...is it better to twist the wires going to the jack, to minimize inuction and noise?

 

Thanks!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by BluesWithoutBlame:

Hi Myles...this is my first post to you.

I asked this on another forum as well, but then remembered you had a "sticky" thread for questions. Mine is regarding the electronics on a MIJ '69 RI strat (I THINK it is a '69 RI, definitely MIJ and strat).

 

It's kinda long, I tried to give as much precise info as I could, since this seems to be a triicky problem (to me anyway). Any help appreciated:

 

I noticed (and then realized I had been hearing it for a long time, but just hadn't focused on it) recently while working with a new pedal some static electric-like crackling. To cut to the chase, I absolutly traced it to the guitar....a MIJ Strat "60's" (I think it was 69 Remake or something). It is definitely the source of the problem.

 

Posted about this and someone mentioned grounding. So I took it apart. I ohmed out all connections that were direct, and all had 0 ohms to ground, though I should mention...I have a finicky multi-meter, and occasionally I would read infinite on some connections, but I took off the leads, put them back on and read 0 ohms. I hav ehad this happen before with this meter, so I don't think it indicates anything.

 

Anyway, I also visually inspected the whole thing....after much careful looking with a magnifying glass, I DID see a copper thread that was sort of trapped behind the (final?) winding that I see on the neck pickup that goes (looking at it from the top) from bottom left up at an angle to top right, and continues out to where the pickup leads attach. It looked "fuzzy" up on the corner...at first I thought someone scored it accidentally or something, but seems intact. I removed the one strand (it was about 3/4" long, almost coiled...). Aha...I thought. This must have been the problem.

 

I had been meaning to do two mods anyway also to this guitar so I took the oppurtunity while I had the pickguard assy. out. I added a .001mF cap in parallel with a 150k resistor to the volume pot...where switch comes in, to the wiper. Also I moved the one wire from the switch so the second tone control controls the bridge pickup instead of the middle (which is useless...for me since I always keep it on ten anyway...now I can adjust my bridge PU which needs it!).

 

Just to be thorough, I also touched up the connections that seemed "strange" on the meter, even though I believe it was the meter.

Soldered the input jack and trem ground back in place, put on the strings, and damned if the crackle is still there.

 

I noticed:

 

1) The pickup selector switch sometimes makes a similar sound...if I move it quickly to a different settting.

 

2) This is weird...the crackling builds up. I mean, if I play heavy chords or dig in (more current from the pickups) it happens more often...but it happens maybe once every 30 seconds or so...not too regular, but not continuously.

 

3) This is even weirder (until one figures it out, and then it makes perfect sense...) but even without playing much, if I let it sit, and then touch the pickup mounting screws on the BOTTOM of either the neck or middle pickup I get the crackle...exactly as a static electric discharge. If I immidiately touch it again, no noise. Has to build up. BUT this doesn't ever (so far) happen if I touch the screws on the bridge PU. Nor does it happen if I touch other ground points like the mounting screws for the PU selector switch. Yet I can ohm it out between the middle mounting screw and those other points is 0 ohms. It also happens on the neck and middle upper screws but seems less.

 

Originally, and as far as I can tell the problem hasn't changed after I did the mods. (and it sounds so GREAT otherwise...with volume down, or bridge PU when I move the tone) and originally the only "chargeup" component in the guitar was one cap that goes from one side of the second tone control to the shell of that control.

 

This seemed non-standard. At least the schematics I see on the net, usually show stock setup being that cap from one side of the FIRST tone pot to ground, but I think electronically it is the same, because there is a wire from the one tone control side, to the same side on the second tone, THEN from there to ground.

 

When I say I ohmed out all direct points, that includes the ground wires from the pickup (at the little solder bead on top to the furthest tone pot shell and points in between...both other shells) as well as the other wires.

 

Again, this builds up like static charges do. Takes some time, less if I am playing harder or chords, and I can force a static electric discharge by touching SOME of the mounting screws (forgot to mention...a couple other that only mount the pickguard to the body discharge it also!!).

 

This guitar has just a small foil area right under the switch, vol, and tone controls. I DID notice an oily feel on the bottom of the pickguard, and it seems to pick up dust..hair. I wonder if the actual pickguard could be doing this?

 

Any ideas? Any good tricks I can try to isolate or test? Should I remove all the electronics again and use spray adhesive and foil to shield the underside of the pickguard?

 

Just edited this (made it even LONGER...sorry :-)

adding this...I'm in Norway so we're 6-8 hours ahead of the US, while waiting for a reply I looked into this and other forums using search. It's probably good to have here as well, since I went into a lot of detail on this, but it seems like this might be a case of "static cling" static buildup on the actual pickguard.

Read some folks claim a temporary solution, using the "cling-free" swatches that you put in the clothes dryer and going over the pickguard with it. Next time I have some more free time, will more permanently (hopefully) fix by glueing aliminum foil (as heavy duty as I can get) on the underside of the pickguard. Will have to remove all electronics (and NO site yet I've seen mentions...it is a GREAT idea to first measure the heights both low and high string side of all three pickups before removing them!! That is, if you want to get them back where they were) first.

 

While I'm doing that will also do the same in the jack cavity and trem cavity.

 

One followup question...is it better to twist the wires going to the jack, to minimize inuction and noise?

 

Thanks!

Can you break this down to some basic questions.

[BluesWithoutBlame]

Hi again. Basically, I think I did find out the solution(s).

 

I think it is static buildup on the pickguard.

 

The questions now are just these:

 

1) Any experience with this crackling static electric discharge on strats because of the plastic pickguard?

 

2) If I use "cling free" spray or material to wipe the pickguard...will it work if I am only wiping the front of it? Or do I have to take off the pickguard and wipe also the underside?

 

3) When I can finally shield it with foil, I probably will want to shield also the trem cavity, and jack cavity. The ground wires common to those two cavities, and the pickguard...are they enough to shield it, or do I have to also connect them with seperate "ground wires"?

 

Hope this is more readable/concise.

[ENGLFanboy]

QUOTE]Generally just a danger to you. [/QB]

Thanks a million. You have a wonderful day.

[rsf1977]

Hey Myles, just curious what you thought of the idea of tube dampers (like the silicone rings) in guitar amps are they helpful or a bad idea?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rsf1977:

Hey Myles, just curious what you thought of the idea of tube dampers (like the silicone rings) in guitar amps are they helpful or a bad idea?

If they help they are good.

 

Sometimes they do, sometimes they do not.

 

An old trick that is fast and easy is to use conventional rubber bands.

[rsf1977]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by rsf1977:

Hey Myles, just curious what you thought of the idea of tube dampers (like the silicone rings) in guitar amps are they helpful or a bad idea?

If they help they are good.

 

Sometimes they do, sometimes they do not.

 

An old trick that is fast and easy is to use conventional rubber bands.

Can they cauuse any negative effects?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rsf1977:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by rsf1977:

Hey Myles, just curious what you thought of the idea of tube dampers (like the silicone rings) in guitar amps are they helpful or a bad idea?

If they help they are good.

 

Sometimes they do, sometimes they do not.

 

An old trick that is fast and easy is to use conventional rubber bands.

Can they cauuse any negative effects?

No

[BluesWithoutBlame]

Originally posted by BluesWithoutBlame:

Hi again. Basically, I think I did find out the solution(s).

 

I think it is static buildup on the pickguard.

 

The questions now are just these:

 

1) Any experience with this crackling static electric discharge on strats because of the plastic pickguard?

 

2) If I use "cling free" spray or material to wipe the pickguard...will it work if I am only wiping the front of it? Or do I have to take off the pickguard and wipe also the underside?

 

3) When I can finally shield it with foil, I probably will want to shield also the trem cavity, and jack cavity. The ground wires common to those two cavities, and the pickguard...are they enough to shield it, or do I have to also connect them with seperate "ground wires"?

 

Hope this is more readable/concise.

Is this how it works at "ask myles"?

 

I may have given too much info at first, you asked med to break it down to smaller questions, I did...and you ignore it?

 

Thanks.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by BluesWithoutBlame:

Originally posted by BluesWithoutBlame:

Hi again. Basically, I think I did find out the solution(s).

 

I think it is static buildup on the pickguard.

 

The questions now are just these:

 

1) Any experience with this crackling static electric discharge on strats because of the plastic pickguard?

 

2) If I use "cling free" spray or material to wipe the pickguard...will it work if I am only wiping the front of it? Or do I have to take off the pickguard and wipe also the underside?

 

3) When I can finally shield it with foil, I probably will want to shield also the trem cavity, and jack cavity. The ground wires common to those two cavities, and the pickguard...are they enough to shield it, or do I have to also connect them with seperate "ground wires"?

 

Hope this is more readable/concise.

Is this how it works at "ask myles"?

 

I may have given too much info at first, you asked med to break it down to smaller questions, I did...and you ignore it?

 

Thanks.

I am sorry if I did not get to this in a flash. I do have a few other things I do.

 

I do not know the answer to your question as I have not had this static issue and generally work with amps rather than guitars.

[BluesWithoutBlame]

One comment, then I'll drop it.

 

The rudeness and sarcasm is not that endearing.

Nobody asked you to get to it "in a flash".

I spent time and thought forming the question. You gave a one sentence reply, indicating it was too much, or not concise enough.

 

I replied immidiately, trying to comply with how you wanted it...and you skipped over it AFTER without any comment, answering other questions, and ignoring mine.

 

You could have simply said "sorry, I work most with amps, and this is getting out of my area of expertise", but you chose to just ignore it.

 

When I mention it, more rudeness and snarky comment about "sorry I didn't get it it in a flash" (as in "gee...sorry I didn't drop just everything and concentrat solely on you").

 

Well, that wasn't the issue.

 

Listen, we can just drop it here. I thought this was a civil help page, I see further up more of the same rudeness on someone elses serious question about dangers with grounding, and he also got the "Only to you" (funny) short skrift.

 

Well, thanks. I learned something.

I guess I don't need your help after all.

 

But thanks.

[Anderson Council Sound]

Hi Miles, I posted this in a seperate thread a few days ago, and I've been told I should ask you, as you are the amp guy...

 

I have a problem with my friends AC30 that we can't seem to pin down.

 

Basicly, there is a very loud and intrusive mechanical rattle that happens whenever we turn the amp up loud. It does not come thru the speakers, but it is loud enough to be picked up by any microphone we place on the cab, no matter the positioning. We've looked the amp over for any loose screws or anything that could be rattling, and no luck. We also just had the amp overhauled, replaced the tubes, etc., and altho we told the guy about the rattling, when we brought it back to the studio, it was still there.

 

Anyone have this happen before, or could make and suggestions? We are going to start recording soon, and we really need to use this amp, but as it is now, it's useless. We are taking the amp back this friday, but the tech seemed perplexed as to what may be causeing this. I figured I'd stop by here and see if anybody has any words of wisdom for us. Thanks!

 

P.S.

I should also state that this happens even at "respectable" levels, not just when it's turned to "11". Clean tones are also affected by this rattle, and it appears that the level of the rattle does not change when the amp is turned up...the rattle is constant no matter the amp settings.

 

Thanks for any help you can give Miles!

 

Marty

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Anderson Council Sound:

Hi Miles, I posted this in a seperate thread a few days ago, and I've been told I should ask you, as you are the amp guy...

 

I have a problem with my friends AC30 that we can't seem to pin down.

 

Basicly, there is a very loud and intrusive mechanical rattle that happens whenever we turn the amp up loud. It does not come thru the speakers, but it is loud enough to be picked up by any microphone we place on the cab, no matter the positioning. We've looked the amp over for any loose screws or anything that could be rattling, and no luck. We also just had the amp overhauled, replaced the tubes, etc., and altho we told the guy about the rattling, when we brought it back to the studio, it was still there.

 

Anyone have this happen before, or could make and suggestions? We are going to start recording soon, and we really need to use this amp, but as it is now, it's useless. We are taking the amp back this friday, but the tech seemed perplexed as to what may be causeing this. I figured I'd stop by here and see if anybody has any words of wisdom for us. Thanks!

 

P.S.

I should also state that this happens even at "respectable" levels, not just when it's turned to "11". Clean tones are also affected by this rattle, and it appears that the level of the rattle does not change when the amp is turned up...the rattle is constant no matter the amp settings.

 

Thanks for any help you can give Miles!

 

Marty

Marty,

 

This is common in many amps and could be all sorts of things. Basically ... something is loose or you have a physically microphonic tube or rectifier.

 

The amp will have to be opened up and gone over in a slow way to isolate the problem which can be many things.

 

There is no fast and simple way to resolve this.

[Dan1122]

I think I inadvertantly posted this in the wrong location previously....

 

Hi Myles,

 

I recently purchased a Rivera Fandango 1x12 Combo and am having trouble dialing in an acceptable distorted/overdriven sound on channel 1. I realize this is subjective but harsh is the best way I can describe the channel 1 tone. I have experimented over a period of four weeks with a myriad of EQ settings as well as both the Vintage and Modern modes. There seems to be no middle ground between harsh and flat. This particular amp has the adjustable boost volume modification for both channels so I have worked with this as well. I would also note that I have experimented with master volume settings between 5-8 in an attempt to really work the power tubes.

 

With the harshness issue aside the amp is an excellent performer in other areas: it is very touch sensitive and cleans up readily with a soft attack. Channel 2 has a simply beautiful clean tone with tons of headroom. Im not sure if these are pertinent items but I would also note that there is very little distortion available on channel 2 even with the boost engaged and both volumes approaching their maximum settings. Also, the amp produces what I would describe as static or white noise. This noise does not change levels as the volume controls are adjusted and disappears completely with put on stand-by.

 

This is my second tube amp so I dont have a lot of experience with this type of equipment but I think I have done the due diligence when it comes to exhausting the settings I can change. Im wondering if you see anything in the tube compliment below that would explain the harshness issue noted above and if so could you recommend the necessary changes. I hope Im describing this clearly but what I would like to achieve is a smooth overdriven/distorted sound similar to early ZZ Top, Allman Bros or AC/DC

 

V1 JJECC83S

 

V2 GT12AX7R (ECC83/7025)

 

V3 12AX7LP Sovtek (00 05)

 

V4 GT12AX7R3 (ECC83/7025)

 

V5 12AX7LP Sovtek (00 04)

 

V6 Winged C EL34 (I assume this to be a Winged C the letter C is in a circle with three horizontal marks on each side of the perimeter) these tubes are both marked in hand written ink #8 on the base. There are also numbers handwritten on the end of the tube in ink 153 on one 147 on the other.

 

Ive included the function of each tube as given in the Rivera manual below:

 

V1 Input buffer and tone control driver for Channel 2, and also the first Preamp stage of Channel 1.

 

V2 Tone control follower for Channel 2 and an additional gain stage for Channel 1.

 

V3 Third gain stage for Channel 2 and for Channel 1

 

V4 Reverb follower gain stage, and mixer for both channels

 

V5 Phase inverter driver tube for the power amp section

 

V6,7 Power amp tubes

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dan Snyder

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dan1122:

I think I inadvertantly posted this in the wrong location previously....

 

Hi Myles,

 

I recently purchased a Rivera Fandango 1x12 Combo and am having trouble dialing in an acceptable distorted/overdriven sound on channel 1. I realize this is subjective but harsh is the best way I can describe the channel 1 tone. I have experimented over a period of four weeks with a myriad of EQ settings as well as both the Vintage and Modern modes. There seems to be no middle ground between harsh and flat. This particular amp has the adjustable boost volume modification for both channels so I have worked with this as well. I would also note that I have experimented with master volume settings between 5-8 in an attempt to really work the power tubes.

 

With the harshness issue aside the amp is an excellent performer in other areas: it is very touch sensitive and cleans up readily with a soft attack. Channel 2 has a simply beautiful clean tone with tons of headroom. Im not sure if these are pertinent items but I would also note that there is very little distortion available on channel 2 even with the boost engaged and both volumes approaching their maximum settings. Also, the amp produces what I would describe as static or white noise. This noise does not change levels as the volume controls are adjusted and disappears completely with put on stand-by.

 

This is my second tube amp so I dont have a lot of experience with this type of equipment but I think I have done the due diligence when it comes to exhausting the settings I can change. Im wondering if you see anything in the tube compliment below that would explain the harshness issue noted above and if so could you recommend the necessary changes. I hope Im describing this clearly but what I would like to achieve is a smooth overdriven/distorted sound similar to early ZZ Top, Allman Bros or AC/DC

 

V1 JJECC83S

 

V2 GT12AX7R (ECC83/7025)

 

V3 12AX7LP Sovtek (00 05)

 

V4 GT12AX7R3 (ECC83/7025)

 

V5 12AX7LP Sovtek (00 04)

 

V6 Winged C EL34 (I assume this to be a Winged C the letter C is in a circle with three horizontal marks on each side of the perimeter) these tubes are both marked in hand written ink #8 on the base. There are also numbers handwritten on the end of the tube in ink 153 on one 147 on the other.

 

Ive included the function of each tube as given in the Rivera manual below:

 

V1 Input buffer and tone control driver for Channel 2, and also the first Preamp stage of Channel 1.

 

V2 Tone control follower for Channel 2 and an additional gain stage for Channel 1.

 

V3 Third gain stage for Channel 2 and for Channel 1

 

V4 Reverb follower gain stage, and mixer for both channels

 

V5 Phase inverter driver tube for the power amp section

 

V6,7 Power amp tubes

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dan Snyder

Dan,

 

12AX7R3 in V1 and V2 ... loose the ECC83S in V1 for sure, that is more of a aggressive British tone and the R in V2 is the kiss of death.

 

That is a start and I'd also check the bias and assure it is about 34-37mA. If lower you will be grainy and if higher you will be harsh.

[Cheo]

Hey Myles,

 

It's been a while since I bothered you, but here I am again! Anyway, you know how we talked about getting that Marshall MG100HDFX/MG412 Slant Cab Half Stack Package, well the guitar player at my church is a girl and now she's giving me a hard time talking about she wants a Fender Blues DeVille 410 Reissue Guitar Amp. Now, I know it's a tube amp and that they're more powerful than solid state ones, but is this powerful enough for a big church? What do you think? Would you recommend it? Please Help I don't konw what to do anymore!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Cheo:

Hey Myles,

 

It's been a while since I bothered you, but here I am again! Anyway, you know how we talked about getting that Marshall MG100HDFX/MG412 Slant Cab Half Stack Package, well the guitar player at my church is a girl and now she's giving me a hard time talking about she wants a Fender Blues DeVille 410 Reissue Guitar Amp. Now, I know it's a tube amp and that they're more powerful than solid state ones, but is this powerful enough for a big church? What do you think? Would you recommend it? Please Help I don't konw what to do anymore!

This is really personal preference

[jross68052]

Myles,

 

I have a Marshall TSL60 that seems to be out of spec. The manufactures recommends setting the bias voltage to 80ma as measured by each side of a three pin connector on the back of the amp chassis. When I turn the bias pot all the way up I only get 70 ma. The pre-amp sounds good, but when I turn the amp up the sound in best described as harsh, brittle and cold. I think the power section is under biased. I have tried three sets of new power tubes so far with no improvement.

 

Any suggestions for fixing this problem? Do I need to replace or upgrade the output transformers?

 

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

[jross68052]

Myles,

 

I meant mv in the last comment not ma.

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by jross68052:

Myles,

 

I have a Marshall TSL60 that seems to be out of spec. The manufactures recommends setting the bias voltage to 80ma as measured by each side of a three pin connector on the back of the amp chassis. When I turn the bias pot all the way up I only get 70 ma. The pre-amp sounds good, but when I turn the amp up the sound in best described as harsh, brittle and cold. I think the power section is under biased. I have tried three sets of new power tubes so far with no improvement.

 

Any suggestions for fixing this problem? Do I need to replace or upgrade the output transformers?

 

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

You do not need to change anything and have no problem.

 

A bias pot has a limited range and the output tubes you have are slightly lower than spec tubes might be.

 

BUT!!!!! ......... Marshall's spec is WAY too high. The amps run hot and sound grainy.

 

You reading of 70 is actually perfect-o!

[Rhino Madness]

Originally posted by Ricardo.:

Hey Myles, do you think society will ever accept the risque avatars that used to make this thread so fun?

Hey Ricardo, don't you think there are better places on the internet to post and look for risqué pictures than on a guitar forum?

 

Society does accept it when in the proper channels. This forum is frequented from all kinds of places that can not allow such demonstrations (such as workplaces, households with young kids, etc.) Sure we can turn off avatars as a preference but it does make following threads more difficult. IMHO this is just not the proper place for that.

 

Pssst! You can still click on the links in Myles's sig and get your fix!

[zephead975]

Hello Myles,

 

I am a first time poster and I see that you have an extensive knowledge of Marshall and other amps. I want to know if you can help me on this question. In another post, you had mentioned that extensive information has been written on converting a Marshall JCM 800 100 watt to a 50 watt (I think) by removing two of the power tubes. I cannot find this thread but would be interested in any info on this subject. I own a 2210 100-watt head and it is simply too loud. I want to drive the power tubes, but also don't want to kill my ears every time I play. Any help would be much appreciated. A link to the thread would be great.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by zephead975:

Hello Myles,

 

I am a first time poster and I see that you have an extensive knowledge of Marshall and other amps. I want to know if you can help me on this question. In another post, you had mentioned that extensive information has been written on converting a Marshall JCM 800 100 watt to a 50 watt (I think) by removing two of the power tubes. I cannot find this thread but would be interested in any info on this subject. I own a 2210 100-watt head and it is simply too loud. I want to drive the power tubes, but also don't want to kill my ears every time I play. Any help would be much appreciated. A link to the thread would be great.

You can remove two of the tube (inner or outer pair) and set the impedance selector to 1/2 the value of the cabinet.

 

I do not like doing this personally as it generally backfires.

 

Look on my GAB website at 50 vs 100 watts.

[WakeupDead]

Hey man saw this and thought it would save time and space here with another "ask" topic. I'm a guitar player of 21 years, self taught play by ear, the kind that can't read sheet music and basically has no clue at it.

 

For a few years now I've been feeling that I've come to a part in my playing where I cannot further myself, and well am thinking about looking up a good teacher in my state maybe near by.

 

And relearn all this I've been playing for years and this time be able to read and do it the right way I guess you could call it, I live in the Mid West area of the state of Indiana near the boarder of ill in a small town of Covington.

 

Heck I'd be near willing to drive to Indianapolis once or twice a week for lessons man, I just want a stellar teacher who works well and closely with students and has a rep for producing fantastic players.

 

I realize this step calls for a complete overhaul, but I love the guitar and am willing to make the journey into the re-discovery of my instrument and be the best I can.

 

If you could help me out on this that would be very cool man, thanks alot and hope you take the time would greatly appreciate it

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by WakeupDead:

Hey man saw this and thought it would save time and space here with another "ask" topic. I'm a guitar player of 21 years, self taught play by ear, the kind that can't read sheet music and basically has no clue at it.

 

For a few years now I've been feeling that I've come to a part in my playing where I cannot further myself, and well am thinking about looking up a good teacher in my state maybe near by.

 

And relearn all this I've been playing for years and this time be able to read and do it the right way I guess you could call it, I live in the Mid West area of the state of Indiana near the boarder of ill in a small town of Covington.

 

Heck I'd be near willing to drive to Indianapolis once or twice a week for lessons man, I just want a stellar teacher who works well and closely with students and has a rep for producing fantastic players.

 

I realize this step calls for a complete overhaul, but I love the guitar and am willing to make the journey into the re-discovery of my instrument and be the best I can.

 

If you could help me out on this that would be very cool man, thanks alot and hope you take the time would greatly appreciate it

I am sorry but I do not know any teachers in your area.

[zephead975]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by zephead975:

Hello Myles,

 

I am a first time poster and I see that you have an extensive knowledge of Marshall and other amps. I want to know if you can help me on this question. In another post, you had mentioned that extensive information has been written on converting a Marshall JCM 800 100 watt to a 50 watt (I think) by removing two of the power tubes. I cannot find this thread but would be interested in any info on this subject. I own a 2210 100-watt head and it is simply too loud. I want to drive the power tubes, but also don't want to kill my ears every time I play. Any help would be much appreciated. A link to the thread would be great.

You can remove two of the tube (inner or outer pair) and set the impedance selector to 1/2 the value of the cabinet.

 

I do not like doing this personally as it generally backfires.

 

Look on my GAB website at 50 vs 100 watts.

Myles,

 

Forgive me, but I read the section on 50 vs. 100 watts and I understand that a 50-watt amp is nearly as loud as a 100-watt amp, but I don't understand what you mean when you say it typically backfires. Obviously, I don't want to do anything that would damage my amp or tubes, but I don't think that is what you are saying. Can you possibly provide a very brief explanation as to why removing two tubes typically backfires. Thanks and sorry for my ignorance on this subject.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by zephead975:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by zephead975:

Hello Myles,

 

I am a first time poster and I see that you have an extensive knowledge of Marshall and other amps. I want to know if you can help me on this question. In another post, you had mentioned that extensive information has been written on converting a Marshall JCM 800 100 watt to a 50 watt (I think) by removing two of the power tubes. I cannot find this thread but would be interested in any info on this subject. I own a 2210 100-watt head and it is simply too loud. I want to drive the power tubes, but also don't want to kill my ears every time I play. Any help would be much appreciated. A link to the thread would be great.

You can remove two of the tube (inner or outer pair) and set the impedance selector to 1/2 the value of the cabinet.

 

I do not like doing this personally as it generally backfires.

 

Look on my GAB website at 50 vs 100 watts.

Myles,

 

Forgive me, but I read the section on 50 vs. 100 watts and I understand that a 50-watt amp is nearly as loud as a 100-watt amp, but I don't understand what you mean when you say it typically backfires. Obviously, I don't want to do anything that would damage my amp or tubes, but I don't think that is what you are saying. Can you possibly provide a very brief explanation as to why removing two tubes typically backfires. Thanks and sorry for my ignorance on this subject.

I should have used a word with less destructive flair than "backfire".

 

What I mean here, is that when an amp distorts it is a sum of many parts of the innards. Your power supply as an example was based to feed a 100 watt amp. Ask it to supply a 50 watter and it will never be taxed at all. So ... the amp at less than high settings will be even cleaner and less touch dynamic.

 

If you want a 50 watter get a 50 watter. This is why folks like Jeff Beck always use 50 watters and not 100 watters.

[jross68052]

Myles,

 

Heres my question of the week. If you have a typical push pull amp and the phase inverter tube happens to be not balanced as it should, What would the amp sound like when it is turned up? Would this produce a non harmonic distortion?

 

The reason I ask is that my Marshall TSL60 sounds great at low volumes and the preamp out to a PA with digital effects sounds really great. But when I turn the amp up a bit, the power amp distortion sounds real nasty and not even musical in my opinion. I have ordered a balanced phase inverter tube for the amp.

 

Do you think this may improve the problem? Or am I on the wrong track?

 

Thanks,

 

Joe