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Reason to Stop Buying Leo's Badass?


funkymonks127

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I was doing some experimentation while working on my first project bass, a warmoth dinky J, (almost the best bass ive played for uner 1000$.) with a preamp it might just be the best. I tried out a couple of bridges to see what sounded the best. So naturally i went out and i got a badass, rave reviews and what not. The other bridge i got was off warmoth's website, a gotoh 201. i played on the badass, but found i didnt get good snappy highs, and it seemed liek the string tension wasnt as good, but i did fall in love with the gotoh 201. Anyone else have the same experience?

Warmoth Dinky J Musicman Style

Schecter Elite 4

Squier P with Dimarzio Humbuckers

Peavey MAX 450

Peavey 4x10

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Regarding string tension: assuming you installed the bridge correctly, tuned to pitch and set the intonation, the bridge has no effect on string tension. The only things that affect string tension are the pitch to which it is tuned, the mass and elasticity of the string, and the distance between the nut and the bridge saddle. It doesn't matter if you use an old butter knife for a bridge, if it's tuned to pitch and intonated, the string tension is the same. :freak:

 

If you just put the bridge on, tuned it up and didn't bother to set the string height, you might perceive that the tension is higher because the action is higher or something. But the laws of physics say that it's not.

 

But if you're in love with the Gotoh and its snappy highs, by all means, go with it. It's your bass. ;)

 

Ed

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There's nothing wrong with a Badass II bridge, which is why millions have been sold.

 

There is also nothing wrong with the bridge which comes on a Fender bass which is similar to the Gotoh bridge.

 

I often hear people talk about "replacing the flimsy Fender bridge". I don't know what they are talking about. The bridge works. The bass sounds fine.

 

When the original Badass bridge came out, many people told me that I should cut up my worthless post CBS bass and install this bridge. Some of these same people now are impressed with my "original vintage '71 bass".

 

I don't need more sustain or punch. On the other hand, the old Fender bridges (that adjusted with a screwdriver not with a hex wrench) had the annoying habit of readjusting themselves while the bass was being played. My bridge screws are currently glued in to solve that problem.

 

I have owned one Fender with a Badass II bridge (well, it was sort of a Fender...I built it out of parts) and I own or have owned various other basses with heavier bridges than the stock Fender bridge.

 

The various bridges make the basses sound a little different. Better or worse is very, very subjective when all the basses sound good to begin with.

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When I got my first car in 1956, I immediately had to put fender skirts on it and lower the back so it drug the ground. Dual rear antennaes looked neat also. Nothing really healped the car but it sure made me feel like I had improved it.

:idea:

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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Here's what i meant, thanks for letting me know string tension wasn't what i mean. But what i'm saying is, from bass to bass there's a certain feeling you get playing it acoustically, there's a feeling. Rickenbackers are kind of dead and thumpy, like most fenders i've dealt with. the Peavey cirrus's ive played, G and L's, all have this snappy bright type feel to them. i experienced a change between those two feelings, with a different bridge. I'm not saying these basses had the same wood, same resonance, weight blah blah blah im just saying the feel is different from the different bridges ive put on, and i think the gotoh is the best.

Warmoth Dinky J Musicman Style

Schecter Elite 4

Squier P with Dimarzio Humbuckers

Peavey MAX 450

Peavey 4x10

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Originally posted by Rocky3840:

When I got my first car in 1956, I immediately had to put fender skirts on it and lower the back so it drug the ground. Dual rear antennaes looked neat also. Nothing really healped the car but it sure made me feel like I had improved it.

:idea:

Rocky

Cool, daddy-o! ;)

 

And I get your point. :D

 

Ed

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I'll try that, Dave, thanks. I've used plumber's tape successfully to fix loose strap buttons and dials that won't stay on the post of pots. (And also for it's intended use in plumbing--I do most plumbing repairs and replacements around my house).

 

The gluing of which I spoke has been to put one drop of either Elmer's glue or clear nail polish on the screw head. If I want to change the string height, putting a screwdriver on the screw is enough to break the glue joint.

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The best product is called thread locker by "LockTite", it comes in small tubes like superglue. It is used in automotive shops to lock engine bolts and nuts. It is not permanent but can be unscrewed if needed. Found in all automotive supply stores. Only takes a small drop to do the job. Much easier to use than plumbers tape.

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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One thing I did not think of when suggesting LockTite is the very small screws we are working with. My second thought is that LockTite may be overkill for what we are trying to accomplish. I use it on my straplock nuts which were always working loose. I have not had any real problems with the saddle screws. I guess it varies with how tight or loose each screw might be. If you have a really loose screw, you could just remove it and flatten the treads a little and that would increase its hold. I have a hard time wrapping plumbers tape around a 1/2 pipe, I can't imagine how to wrap it around one of those tiny screws.

:D

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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