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Switching from passive to active pickups.


xvincex

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Hello, I currently own an ESP Eclipse-304 FM which has 2 EMG passive pickups, and I'd like to know what are the benefits of switching from passive to active pickups? (Like the Eclipse 404). I'm looking forward EMG active pickups.

 

Thank you.

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Also it would help maintain a consistent signal so if you hit notes on "dead spots" or hit them too low to sound off on conventional pickups the signal would come through on the active setup.

 

I installed my first EMG J-set, along with one of their preamps on my Ibanez 5 string back in 1985. The pickups are the same today, but the preamp was replaced a few years ago after enough moisture got into the control cavity to short it out.

 

I have more problems with the stereo output jacks used for the extra voltage lead. On some basses I replace them every other year - the Switchcrafts, I mean, the others tend to go bad even faster. So I'm in the market for a better-built jack.

 

You should remember to unplug the bass when not in use to extend the battery life and to throw a fresh battery in once a year.

:wave:

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Also it would help maintain a consistent signal so if you hit notes on "dead spots" or hit them too low to sound off on conventional pickups the signal would come through on the active setup.
Not true. Active may, may help overcome dead spots. It will not correct dead spots, or bad right hand tech.

 

The EMG have a "High Fi" sound bright, clean, quiet. Good for rock, EQ for jazz and other types of music.

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the CS is said to have a more "classic" tone, so perhaps you'd prefer it for the bridge to soften up the agressive tones from that end.

 

of course, the DC may be more what you like to accentuate bridge pickup tones.

 

personally, i'd go with the slightly more expensive 35TW -- it has dual coils that can be used in humbucking or single-coil modes. that way you can easily mimmick both a J bridge pickup tone and a musicman humbucker tone.

 

if i were going with EMG soapbars, i'd get a 35TW for the bridge and a 35P for the neck. that way i can get both P/J and MM/P tones from the same bass. i wouldn't be opposed to another 35TW for the neck, but it's my second choice.

 

robb.

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i should also add that i have recently switched up to the peavey cirrus BXP, which has active VFL pickups and an active 3-band EQ. i love the extra clarity that the pickups have -- they can feel very bright when playing solo, even with the treble cut, but they cut through a mix better than anything else i've ever played, both live and recorded. i love them. i hope your experience with active EMGs goes as well.

 

robb.

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Originally posted by ian101:

Active pickups also have weaker magnets

.....true....

 

which means you have to put them closer to the strings. .....false......

 

In general, there is less winding which actually allows a little wider frequency range compared to passives but the signal is then aplied to a preamp built into the pup (this is why an active pup has a power wire) that boosts the signal to passive levels or higher before oit hits the EQ>

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I'd check their website to be sure, but IIRC the 35, 40 and 45 are all soapbar shape and can have J, P or side by side humbuckers inside. The P pickup is an actual split pickup in appearance.

 

My main bass has EMGs in, a reverse P/J set and they sound great. Very clear sound with plenty of ooomph! Run them on 9V for the classic compressed EMG sound with in your face highs, or on 18V for a more open natural sound with bigger lows.

 

Alex

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Originally posted by C.Alexander Claber:

I'd check their website to be sure, but IIRC the 35, 40 and 45 are all soapbar shape and can have J, P or side by side humbuckers inside. The P pickup is an actual split pickup in appearance.

 

My main bass has EMGs in, a reverse P/J set and they sound great. Very clear sound with plenty of ooomph! Run them on 9V for the classic compressed EMG sound with in your face highs, or on 18V for a more open natural sound with bigger lows.

 

Alex

To add to that, the numbers indicate relative pickup lengths, e.g. 35 = 3.5". It's not exact, and you should measure the outside string distance at the point you plan to put the pickup in, or else you'll experience string dropout. Yes, I speak from experience on this one... :(
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