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Refinishing a a bass


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any recommendations on how to best strip the paint off my Hohner PJ body down to the wood so I can repaint it?

"Call me what instrument you will, though you can fret me, yet you cannot play upon me.'-Hamlet

 

Guitar solos last 30 seconds, the bass line lasts for the whole song.

 

 

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What is on it now? If it's a relatively recent finish, it's probably poly or acrylic lacquer.

You could probably just lightly sand the whole thing, enough to add a little texture ("tooth") to the paint, wipe it with naptha and a clean tack rag, and spray with your choice of paint, following the paint mfgr's instructions.

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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I will try that out, the body is from the late 80's or early 90's so it's probably the paint you describe.

 

I had used a spray paint finish over it, but I was pressed for time and didn't sand enough between the primer coat and the color coats, so the finish was rough, after 9 years of use my paint job looks shoddy and I figure I'll just take it down to wood and start over.

 

thanks for the tips.

 

 

"Call me what instrument you will, though you can fret me, yet you cannot play upon me.'-Hamlet

 

Guitar solos last 30 seconds, the bass line lasts for the whole song.

 

 

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Well, in the past everybody would chime in on what kind of stickers would cover up the parts you didn't like anymore.

 

I have no experience with this type of effort. But I'll bet there's a StewMac.com page for the proper way to do it.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Instrument_Finishing_and_Finish_Repair/How_to_strip_a_modern_poly_guitar_finish.html

Things are just the way they are, and they're only going to get worse.

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Over 40 pages of spray bomb goodness. Plenty of tips and tricks along the way.

 

Rattle can refin TB page

 

Here's a quote: "Steel wool is not a very good 'scuff' tool. Use a wet/dry 240 or 320 grit closed coat paper instead - but use it dry.

 

Steel wool has irregular surfaces on the individual wires and they won't give a good tooth to the under paint for good adhesion of the new paint.

 

Old paint is a very good undercoat - if it is comparable with whatever you want to put over it."

 

Not the only place I have seen this info, btw. But, this link has lots of gear pix. ;)

 

 

 

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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What color/configuration is the bass now? How did you paint over the original finish? Do you know what the original finish was/is?

 

My curiosity is piqued...

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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Over the original red, I had used rattle-can Duplicolor Mirage color shifting paint (purple to green). The kit came with a base color, then the clear coat with the color shifting magic stuff in. I used it because I didn't like the original color of the bass, though I love the bass itself. I was moving and I know my things would be in storage for a while and that spray paint might be worthless, so I figured I'd use it up. My mistakes were in not roughing up the original finish enough for the new base coat/primer, and in not sanding the primer coats smooth before applying the colorshifting coat. 9 years later, after a lot of use, there are nicks and dents that show the red, an not in a cool road-worn way. Since I didn't do a goo job with the original repaint, I figured I might as well start over the right way.

 

I did post a few pix of this bass here years ago, the paint did look nice, the color shifting is a pretty cool thing especially under stage lights. Unfortunately, they no longer seem to make this paint in those colors, so I will probably refinish it in an emerald green to replace the bass I foolishly sold decades ago.

 

Thanks for the tips

 

"Call me what instrument you will, though you can fret me, yet you cannot play upon me.'-Hamlet

 

Guitar solos last 30 seconds, the bass line lasts for the whole song.

 

 

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