I just got my first electric guitar!!!

[Fred_C]

 

Hey Bro. Larry,

 

I always thought that the Taylor T-3 was a cool guitar, but was put off by the single bolt connection between neck and body. Have you experienced any problems with the neck twisting out of position? This seems like a pretty lousy neck join to me (I admit that I'm a "set neck" kinda' guy).

[Larryz]

Good morning Fred, always nice to share a morning cup of coffee with you! Haven't had any neck problems (knock on wood - pun intended) so far. Both my T3 and T5 use the same single bolt connection. I wouldn't trust myself to take the neck off or try to adjust it and would take it in to my Taylor authorized luthiers if anything ever loosens up. I have a lifetime warranty as long as they do the work. I trust Taylor with the design as they are very particular about the necks and joints on all of their guitars and really do stand behind them...

[Fred_C]

Hey Larry,

 

Good meeting you for coffee too.

 

Glad to read that you haven't experienced any issues w/ the Taylors.

[wjfkddf]

Just fixed the buzzing on the frets! For some reason the wrench that my friend was trying to use to loosen the truss rod was not working so I took it to the guitar center! This kind man at the desk told me that the neck had a little bit of swaying? and he loosened the truss rod and no more buzzing! All for $6. Thank god!

[Larryz]

Cool! Kudos to the guy at GC for helping you get rid of the buzz!

[Caevan O’Shite]

Just fixed the buzzing on the frets! For some reason the wrench that my friend was trying to use to loosen the truss rod was not working so I took it to the guitar center! This kind man at the desk told me that the neck had a little bit of swaying? and he loosened the truss rod and no more buzzing! All for $6. Thank god!

 

Excellent.

 

That's VERY common, by the way, and it will likely have to be addressed two or four or more times a year, depending on the climate, weather, and indoor conditions where you have your guitar. That all affects the wood of the guitar's neck, making it stiffer or more flexible vs the tension of the strings pulling against it. SOME relief- the amount of bow in the neck- is generally desired, as it gives the excursion of the vibrating strings a little room to swing without buzzing against the frets. Strats often are at their best with as little relief, as close to straight and flat, as possible, but it's not unusual at all to need some.

 

To easily adjust the neck's truss-rod yourself, you'll need:

 

_ * A tuner

 

_ * The proper sized hex-wrench- for your Strat, it should most likely be either 3/16" or 1/8", and a long-pattern T-handle wrench will make the job much easier

 

_ * A capo

 

_ * A set of automotive feeler-gauges (optional)

 

 

With the guitar-strings freshly tuned, place the capo at the 1st-fret position.

 

Locate the 16th and 17th frets; place the tip of your finger between them, lightly pressing the 6th/Low-E string (the thickest, lowest-tuned bass-string) down to make contact with the 16th-fret.

 

Using the string as a straight-edge this way, observe the amount of clear space between the underside of the 6th-string and the top of the 7th fret. Repeat with the 1st/High-E string; they should be similar, if not identical. Tighten or loosen the truss-rod as needed by tiny, gentle increments- say, an eighth or a quarter of a turn of the wrench at a time. Let the neck "settle" for a while, from a few minutes to a few days, and re-check and re-adjust as needed.

 

If you have a set of feeler-gauges, find by trial-&-error which gauge comes closest to being the same thickness as the amount of space between the string and fret. When you're satisfied with he neck's relief, measure the amount of relief with the feeler-gauges and record the measurement for future reference. When the neck bows forward or back enough to yield too much or too little relief, you can easily adjust the truss-rod to return to the targeted amount of relief.

 

Ideal relief for most is usually from between straight (zero relief) and a few thousandths of an inch, say, .002" or .003" to .008" or so, give or take a little. Your playing style, how low or high your guitar's strings' action is set (how high the strings are above the frets, as determined by the height of the bridge and the amount of relief), the gauges and types of strings you use, and the sound and feel that you you prefer all come into play here. Whatever works best for YOU is the right measurement spec.

[russclan]

Just a couple things to add...

 

When you check the results of your adjustments, do it in the playing position. Don't do it while supporting the headstock with your hand or with the neck in a cradle-style rest, as this will give a false reading (the weight of the guitar will create more relief than is actually present). Sight down the neck either from body to headstock, or vice-versa, whichever way is more comfortable for you. You can rest the guitar body on its edge and then hold on to one of the horns. Check the bass side, then flip it over and check the treble side.

 

This is the first thing I do when I check out guitars in stores - it's a quick and easy way to see if the guitar is going to need a setup right away, as well as to make sure the neck isn't twisted or warped. Even a tiny bit of warp or twist is unacceptable, as this can't be remedied by a setup or even a fret file (usually).

 

I'm going to break from the pack a bit here and advise against the feeler gauge method. Now, I won't say it doesn't work, or even that it's not viable, because it is. However, it was devised as a way for manufacturers to send out tons of guitars to retailers and be confident that they would have a "middle of the road" action which would be guaranteed to play decently when it arrived. The "numbers" like ".003" at x fret were (are) dependent on the manufacturing tolerances being within spec. If it is, then get the relief to (whatever number), call it good, then a quick play of every string at every fret to ensure there's no buzzing, and off she goes to the store.

 

The reason I don't like the feeler gauge method, is because this is (or should be) about feel (sans gauge), not numbers.

 

Btw, I used to be a setup tech for a major manufacturer. It was piecework, and we got $2.50 per guitar that passed inspection. I was married w/two kids and I supported them alone, so I had to get good, and fast. Our setups included cutting the nut slots, replacing bad/damaged nuts, filing fret ends, neck relief, bridge saddle adjustment(s), filing frets (partial and full, if needed), etc.

 

I'm not saying this to impress you, but to impress upon you the fact that it's just a skill that can be learned with a bit of effort. There is a learning curve, but it's not too bad, and you'll be left with a more intimate knowledge of the instrument and the ability to care for it yourself.

 

You'll also be able to call b.s. on some salesperson if/when the time comes.

[Caevan O’Shite]

When you check the results of your adjustments, do it in the playing position. Don't do it while supporting the headstock with your hand or with the neck in a cradle-style rest, as this will give a false reading (the weight of the guitar will create more relief than is actually present). Sight down the neck either from body to headstock, or vice-versa, whichever way is more comfortable for you. You can rest the guitar body on its edge and then hold on to one of the horns. Check the bass side, then flip it over and check the treble side.

 

Good call.

 

This is the first thing I do when I check out guitars in stores - it's a quick and easy way to see if the guitar is going to need a setup right away, as well as to make sure the neck isn't twisted or warped. Even a tiny bit of warp or twist is unacceptable, as this can't be remedied by a setup or even a fret file (usually).

 

Also a good call.

 

I'm going to break from the pack a bit here and advise against the feeler gauge method. Now, I won't say it doesn't work, or even that it's not viable, because it is. However, it was devised as a way for manufacturers to send out tons of guitars to retailers and be confident that they would have a "middle of the road" action which would be guaranteed to play decently when it arrived. The "numbers" like ".003" at x fret were (are) dependent on the manufacturing tolerances being within spec. If it is, then get the relief to (whatever number), call it good, then a quick play of every string at every fret to ensure there's no buzzing, and off she goes to the store.

 

The reason I don't like the feeler gauge method, is because this is (or should be) about feel (sans gauge), not numbers.

 

Btw, I used to be a setup tech for a major manufacturer. It was piecework, and we got $2.50 per guitar that passed inspection. I was married w/two kids and I supported them alone, so I had to get good, and fast. Our setups included cutting the nut slots, replacing bad/damaged nuts, filing fret ends, neck relief, bridge saddle adjustment(s), filing frets (partial and full, if needed), etc.

 

I'm with you on the point of proper, personally subjectively tailored feel being more important than a measurement spec. I suggested using the feeler-gauges as an optional, easily used and returned to reference to go by.

[5 string Mike]

Good discussion- the gauge method is always a good starting point but may need tweaked to 'season to taste'. Some people like higher string action, some like more relief, some like less relief.

 

Something to clarify, the strat single coil pickups, by design, will almost always have some degree of buzz or hum (hence the two-pickup stacked together called the "humbucker"- specifically designed and wired to eliminate hum). Any standard single coil guitar pickups have this issue. There are some that are 'noiseless' single coils, but those aren't standard on the stock models (usually).

 

For yours, switch positions 1 (neck pickup only) and 3 (bridge pickup only) will have the most noticeable buzz/hum, especially near flourescent wiring, etc. Some of this could be made worse by the digital modeling amp. Some are more sensitive than others.

 

A good cable will help, too. I prefer 10-12' minimum- it can be a little cumbersome in a small room but the extra length helps absorb some of the hum, along with having quality wiring and soldering.

 

Glad to hear you are getting everything dialed in.