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Peterson Tuner


simpleman3441

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I don't know how your response slipped by me...

 

I thought I was having trouble with it, but it turns out that I'm actually having trouble with my 1Spot. Thanks, though!

We cannot accelerate the growth of a tree by pulling on its branches. - Ricardo Iznaola
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The 1Spot is only powering 1pedal. I had my TR2 and Peterson working for a second, but I tried adding the Throbak Stonebender and it stopped. When I returned to just the TR2 and Peterson, it no longer worked. Suggestions?
We cannot accelerate the growth of a tree by pulling on its branches. - Ricardo Iznaola
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The 1Spot is only powering 1pedal. I had my TR2 and Peterson working for a second, but I tried adding the Throbak Stonebender and it stopped. When I returned to just the TR2 and Peterson, it no longer worked. Suggestions?

 

Hmmmnn; I assume that your TR2 is a Boss TR-2 Tremolo, right?

 

Now... about that Throbak Stonebender...

 

9 volt power jack. (Please Note: This is a positive ground pedal, and cannot share a power adapter with negative-ground pedals--it must be powered by either a 9v battery or by a dedicated 9v adapter for your positive-ground pedals. However, if you use the Voodoo Lab Pedal Power II Plus this is not an issue, and you will be able to power negative- and positive-ground pedals together).

 

...and that 1 Spot Power Supply...

 

Why can't I use my old-style fuzz pedal on the same daisy-chain as my other pedals?

Old-style fuzz pedals use PNP germanium transistors which are electrically opposite polarity to every other pedal you have, so they must be run on a separate power supply. Most people who have a pedal(s) like that, run them off a second 1 SPOT. That way, you're still not using up valuable pedalboard space or power strip space... and it's still a lot less expensive than one of those brick-sized power supplies.

 

Note : You will also need the Reverse Polarity Converter if your pedal has a barrel type of power jack (like Boss pedals) and indicates that the power jack is wired center positive. If your pedal has a mini-headphone type of power jack, you will need the 3.5mm Converter.

 

...so, uhmn...

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Good; including the 1 Spot, as well as the TR-2 and the StroboStomp? Or is the 1 Spot toast?

 

By the way, if your Throbak Stonebender is alright, try not only a battery in it, but a carbon-battery in particular, and even experiment with worn-down carbon-batteries in it. A lot of vintage-style fuzz, octave-fuzz, and treble-booster type pedals actually sound and feel their best with carbon-batteries instead of modern alkalines, etc., and even take on some cool dynamic and "sagging" character with low batteries.

 

No less than Duane Allman used to keep a roadie/tech/assistant busy draining and stashing batteries for his Fuzz Face during his studio-session days, before the Les Pauls and Marshalls when he ran a Strat through a Fuzz Face with a dying battery into a Fender Twin.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Man, I hope you didn't fry anything, but IME, you should be okay. Usually, the pedals just refuse to power up at all, rather than frying their circuits. The 1 Spot is really good for daisy-chaining a bunch of low to medium current-draw pedals, with a standard center-negative jack - look at the pedals in the Visual Sound ads, for example.

 

The Pedal Power 2+ actually has a 'Sag' feature on outputs 7 & 8, so you can experiment with the dying battery tone, without going through batteries. You can also get additional cables for almost any kind of pedal, up to 24 volts. It's not cheap, around $160, depending on where you find it, but I swear by mine. Think of it as insurance for your pedal collection. The isolated outputs also prevent ground loops, which can be dangerous to your health, not just your signal. I've used it to power all kinds of pedals, from low-current draw OD's, to the big Line 6 Modelers, without any hassles or failures. I know there are other power supplies out there, like the Dunlop DC Brick, but the PP2+ is recommended by folks like Line 6 - it's the only way you can connect a line of their Tonecore pedals to one power supply. Putting together a good pedalboard isn't cheap, so be prepared to invest in a good power supply. And again, I hope all your gear came through undamaged.

"Monsters are real, and Ghosts are real too. They live inside us, and sometimes, they win." Stephen King

 

http://www.novparolo.com

 

https://thewinstonpsmithproject.bandcamp.com

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Man, I hope you didn't fry anything, but IME, you should be okay. Usually, the pedals just refuse to power up at all, rather than frying their circuits. The 1 Spot is really good for daisy-chaining a bunch of low to medium current-draw pedals, with a standard center-negative jack - look at the pedals in the Visual Sound ads, for example.

 

Yhup. Look for symbols like the following on pedals and power-supplies; the two cannot be daisy-chained in the usual manner and require either a separate PS or a polarity-adapter. The top one- center or pin negative- is far and away the most common amongst typical 9v pedals. The second one, center or pin positive, is more often found on vintage type pedals like your Stonebender vintage-Tonebender-inspired fuzz, if they have an external PS jack at all- many don't.

 

http://www.amperordirect.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/center_pin_polarity.jpg

 

The Pedal Power 2+ actually has a 'Sag' feature on outputs 7 & 8, so you can experiment with the dying battery tone, without going through batteries. You can also get additional cables for almost any kind of pedal, up to 24 volts. It's not cheap, around $160, depending on where you find it, but I swear by mine. Think of it as insurance for your pedal collection. The isolated outputs also prevent ground loops, which can be dangerous to your health, not just your signal. I've used it to power all kinds of pedals, from low-current draw OD's, to the big Line 6 Modelers, without any hassles or failures. I know there are other power supplies out there, like the Dunlop DC Brick, but the PP2+ is recommended by folks like Line 6 - it's the only way you can connect a line of their Tonecore pedals to one power supply. Putting together a good pedalboard isn't cheap, so be prepared to invest in a good power supply. And again, I hope all your gear came through undamaged.

 

I want a VL PP2+, myself. Its sag and higher voltage features are particularly intriguing, as are the benefits of its isolated outputs. But I have been getting by very nicely with my 1 Spot in the meantime.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Didn't mean to sound like I was dissing the 1 Spot - I have four of them, and two Godlyke PA-9 Power-Alls, which are very similar in design and function. I use one to power my old GR-30 guitar synth. I just find that in some cases, like what happened to Simpleman, the one-size-fits-all approach doesn't really work.

 

BTW, if you're running a smaller board, 4 or 5 pedals, the Iso-5 might be the ticket. It's smaller and less expensive, but it doesn't appear to have the Sag feature. I've stayed away from the Dunlop DC Brick, because the power output seemed limited for what it was - basically, I didn't see much advantage using it instead of a 1 Spot, or even two, given the difference in cost.

"Monsters are real, and Ghosts are real too. They live inside us, and sometimes, they win." Stephen King

 

http://www.novparolo.com

 

https://thewinstonpsmithproject.bandcamp.com

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Didn't mean to sound like I was dissing the 1 Spot - I have four of them, and two Godlyke PA-9 Power-Alls, which are very similar in design and function. I use one to power my old GR-30 guitar synth.

 

Oh, I didn't think you were at all, WP'!

 

I just find that in some cases, like what happened to Simpleman, the one-size-fits-all approach doesn't really work.

 

BTW, if you're running a smaller board, 4 or 5 pedals, the Iso-5 might be the ticket. It's smaller and less expensive, but it doesn't appear to have the Sag feature. I've stayed away from the Dunlop DC Brick, because the power output seemed limited for what it was - basically, I didn't see much advantage using it instead of a 1 Spot, or even two, given the difference in cost.

 

Agreed on the Brick. The 1 Spot is serious bang-for-the-buck, but doubtless, the VL PP2+ is superior. The only other production PS that I'm aware of that I'd consider a viable alternative to the PP2+ is the Burkey Flatliner, based on the experiences of a good and reliable friend who had both.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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The 1Spot is what I tested the other pedals with. I threw an RV5 on there for good measure. I didn't bother testing the Stonebender because I just assumed it was fine as well.

 

My live rig is a Furman board, which is why I don't really think about it much. I like to use a lot of pedals and I hope to someday be in a situation that would justify using the stereo functions of the board. I just use the old 1Spot in front of my practice amp and only reach for my fuzz pedals for particular applications...

We cannot accelerate the growth of a tree by pulling on its branches. - Ricardo Iznaola
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I've heard of players having problems with some of the powered Furman boards - same with some of the early SKB powered boards. They had low power output, and sketchy power supplies.

"Monsters are real, and Ghosts are real too. They live inside us, and sometimes, they win." Stephen King

 

http://www.novparolo.com

 

https://thewinstonpsmithproject.bandcamp.com

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I've powered a reverb, phaser, dyna comp, tech21 blonde, and a delay with my 1spot and have had no problems with it (except when it got knocked loose from my power strip during a gig by either the Keyboard or Bass player who must have stepped on it)...
Take care, Larryz
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