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Poor mans cabinet conversion


alanfc

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hey how are things over here?

Say,how would you go about making a removeable backing to an Avatar open back 2x12? Its got the oval shaped opening so I'm not sure if this is technically a 'partial closed back' or not.

 

anyone out there done this? What materials, any easy-on, easy-off way to attach/detach

 

Thanks

Rivera + Fender Strat
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Well... The easiest thing might be to cut out an oval of plywood about 1/2" to 3/4" larger in radius than the oval in the cab. Then mount a pair of Quick Action Toggle Clamps to the plywood. Position each clamp close to the edges of the longest dimension.

 

If you have room inside the cab (Check This First): You can slip the plywood oval inside the oval in the cab and lock in place with the toggle clamps. The rubber feet of the clamps will be pressing on the outside of your cab. :freak:

When i get big i'm gonn'a get an electric guitar...

When i get real big...

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Yah... I was wondering about that...

 

But one could cut a port in the middle of the plywood oval.

 

Or, cut a port in the front (permanent change).

 

Or can one rewire to ensure the speakers are 180 out of phase (no pressure)?

When i get big i'm gonn'a get an electric guitar...

When i get real big...

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Originally posted by Flashback:

Or can one rewire to ensure the speakers are 180 out of phase (no pressure)?

Yeah, but no volume either. :D Moving air is what a speaker is designed to do, and if the pressure is equalized, it won't do that.

 

Is the back panel screwed on? If so, I'd just make a new back for it. One solid piece is going to sound much better than a pieced together back. If you can't take the back off (can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to; what if you had to change speakers?) then the piece larger than the hole held on with some type of clamps sounds like the right idea.

BlueStrat

a.k.a. "El Guapo" ;)

 

...Better fuzz through science...

 

http://geocities.com/teleman28056/index.html

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Oh Mancome on, youve never seen opposing woofers/drivers in a sealed cab :confused:

 

Check out the Infinity line (at least my old ones were designed that way, RS-4 or 5 I dont remember now).

When i get big i'm gonn'a get an electric guitar...

When i get real big...

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Originally posted by Flashback:

Oh Mancome on, youve never seen opposing woofers/drivers in a sealed cab :confused:

 

Check out the Infinity line (at least my old ones were designed that way, RS-4 or 5 I dont remember now).

Regardless of any of that, the speakers are designed to operate correctly with a forward motion. Running them out of phase is not recommended. Got any frequency response ratings for running the speaker with the woofer pulling instead of pushing? Power handling? Life expectancy?

 

In the world of speaker cabinet design, cabinets are built around the responses of the speakers intended to be put into the cabinet. The balance of output efficiancy and tone, and properly supporting the speaker, are all included in the computations.

 

Now, there are a lot of people who just make boxes, stuff in any old speaker, and call it a day.

 

I don't know which camp Avatar occupies. I almost bought one, but I opted for the THD instead. My impression of the two similar designs is that they use a partially closed back to try to achive the best of both worlds... a little of the closed back sound, and a little of the open backed sound. Works for me, and I am very happy with the THD two 12 cab.

 

Before I modified a cabinet, with no data and no assurance that I would actually end up with what I wanted to achive, I'd just buy another cabinet that DID have the sound that I wanted.

 

I -think- (no data here, just an educated guess...) that these cabinets are too small to close up and expect to get the Marshall 'thunk'. I'm betting that, at any level, the back presure will adversely affect the sound of the speakers, and a port would be required. This isn't a big deal, but should be considered in any modification plan.

 

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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No, Im not really a speaker/cab kind a guy. Personally I dont see any difference running a speaker 180 out, its only pulling half the time just like the one thats in phase is pushing half the time. It takes both cycles to make a wave. But, if its not recommended, no, dont do it. :eek:

 

alanfc Could just tape something stiff over the hole with a smaller hole in the materiel just to see if the tone change is desirable

 

How ya like that THD?

Im thinking my next major purchase will be a BiValve and 2X12 cab. :thu:

When i get big i'm gonn'a get an electric guitar...

When i get real big...

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Originally posted by Flashback:

 

How ya like that THD?

Im thinking my next major purchase will be a BiValve and 2X12 cab. :thu:

I got it set up the way that I wanted it with help and good suggestions from Miles. Because of that, I dumped a bunch of vintage amps. The THD just blew them all away. (I still have a collection, it is just smaller...) That was quite a change for me, as I am a big fan of vintage gear.

 

I went for the UniValve and the 2x12 cab.

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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Got any ratchet straps? A chunk of 3/4" plywood? Cut a couple of 2 inch round holes in the plywood, strap it to the back of the cabinet, and tighten it down. Listen. Like it? proceed from there, figuring out a way to attach/remove a piece to the back of the cabinet. The two 2 inch holes aught to provide enough breathing room to protect the speakers.

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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