Upright Bass Strings Stupid Question

[Fathead]

I've recently got a hold of a fiberglass upright bass, I have no idea how old it is or what the make is, but I do know the strings haven't been changed in at least 7 years. The bass hasn't been played a whole lot in that time, but how often are you supposed to change strings on these behemoths? The sound is a little "dead" but when I talked to a friend of mine who runs a guitar shop he said that thats how uprights tend to sound anyway. These strings are expensive and it doesn't sound bad, per se, so any advice will help. I'm also looking for any kind of advice as to what kind of strings to get, or a good website with upright string reviews. Thanks in advance.

[Ed Friedland]

Well, it might be a good odea to change the strings after 7 years! Of course other things will contribute to a "dead" sound. Poor soundpost adjustment is the easiest fix. The statement that most upright basses tend to sound dead anyway is not true. Badly setup upright basses will sound dead though.

 

I like Thomastik Super Flexible Orchestra gauge, also Thomastik Spirocore Orchestra. D'Addario Heliocore Hybrids are good too.

 

 

 

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www.edfriedland.com

[badfish]

It sounds like you definetly need new strings, but I had also heard somewhere that fiberglass uprights tend to sound deader than their wooden counterparts, which might also contribute to tone. Im not sure about this being true, so if its not please excuse my ignorance

 

-Fish

[Steven Denike]

Never change all the strings at the same time...

 

I'm not sure how your bass is constructed, but if you're afraid it might be fragile, you may want to loop some wire (like a coat hanger - pass it in through the F-hole nearest the post) around the sound post inside so it doesn't get loose (or if it does, then you can reposition it with the hanger 'hand') when you remove the string; the post is usually held in place by the tension that the strings exert on the top and endpin of the instrument.

 

Maybe start with the high string - that should be the easiest (least tension) to replace - unwind it from the top, and if necessary, cut it and pull it out of the tuning peg (assuming that the tuning peg is at the top of the instrument), then pull it through the heel (on the bottom of the instrument) to fully remove it. Compare the length to the new 'G' string (again, an assumption that your highest string is G), and cut the new one so it's a similar (read= a little bit longer) in length to the old one, although the old one was probably shorter when it was installed and has stretched over the years to its current length. Thread the new string through the endpiece/heel (again, an assumption that your fiberglass instrument has such a piece) and insert it into the tuning peg . . . then wind it (be sure that it's in the same direction as the next highest string, so you sharpen them both in the same direction) . . . With the new G string on, (which will sound painfully bright at first, in comparison to the others - this'll make it difficult to tune, so you may wish to use a tuner instead of trying to match it to the other strings), play it for about a week, if possible . . . then change the next string. As you move to the lower, thicker strings, it becomes progressively more difficult to change the strings - that's why I'm suggesting to start with the thinnest, easiest string, so by the time you reach your bottom string, you'll have three goes under your belt - an experienced string changer merit badge awaits!

 

Remember, those strings have been holding the instrument together for a long time - don't be in a hurry to undo what they've (successfully) done so well (so far). Take your time . . . get used to each string as you change it, and 'play it in' - some effects of a string change don't last very long at all.

 

I hope this has been helpful - again, I'm assuming you have a four-string acoustic traditional bass with a sound-post on the inside, connecting back to front.