Short scale strings: Is there any real difference?

[musicman1ovation.net]

I've been wondering something for a long time. I play short scale basses from 30 to 31 inches scale. A few companies - very few - make specific short scale strings. Provided they are the type of strings I want as far as gauge and winding type - round, flat, or "flat-rounds" - the short scale strings are easier to deal with due to their length. But is there any real difference between short and long gauge strings? Is it any better to use short scale strings or will any length work as well provided it isn't wrapped around the tuning post to keep from cutting!? http://www.musicplayer.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

 

Since there are way more choices in regular length strings and I can't always even find the short scale ones, I've just used regular length strings on occasion. I can't say that I've noticed a difference, but I've wondered stuff like this: Does a short scale E string of the same make, gauge and type have the same amount of tension when tuned to concert and strung on a short scale bass as a regular scale and gauge E string of the same make, gauge and type when tuned to concert and strung on a short scale bass?

 

Are short scale strings just marketing and a way to keep from clipping the extra? Or are they for real? I've heard both ways.

[Guest]

I'm certainly no expert, and i am still using the same strings on my Bronco, but i will always use short scale so the part that wraps around the post is only core and not the whole fat string. I just think it's practicle.

 

Here's an unscientific assumption:

If you tune a long E string to E at 34", then fret the string 4" shorter, you will have a higher note. Using that *flawed* logic would tell me you would need to have the string at a lighter tension to get an E on a short scale. If this is true then you are at a disadvantage using long strings. Now, if what you suspect is true, that the strings are manufactured at the same tension, then the only advantage to short scale strings is that they wrap around the post much easier and don't put undue sideways tension on the nut.

 

Have you tried ordering short scale strings from juststrings.com? I have found about 6 or 7 different styles for short scale there. Haven't tried ordering them though.

[musicman1ovation.net]

Originally posted by plastic nut:

Here's an unscientific assumption:

If you tune a long E string to E at 34", then fret the string 4" shorter, you will have a higher note. Using that *flawed* logic would tell me you would need to have the string at a lighter tension to get an E on a short scale. If this is true then you are at a disadvantage using long strings.

 

I've pondered that same thing. However, on that 34" string that you fret to make the string 4" shorter, the tension on the string from the fret to the bridge is tighter. The string won't have the same "wobble" (there's some science!) as it does open. So, if you tune the string down on that fretted string so that the pitch is as it would be if it was not fretted, I think it would give the same amount of wobble/tension as that string at the nut. Chances are, though, I am likely the nut in this scenario! http://www.musicplayer.com/ubb/wink.gif

 

By the way, thanks for the JustStrings tip.

 

Meanwhile, does anyone out their (luthiers?) know the definitive answer to this? My brain hurts. http://www.musicplayer.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Mr. Wise Man]

In terms of tension, it won't matter as long as you use the same gauges. The only problem I can think of is that not a few roundwound strings, including DR High Beams and Rotosounds, are prone to unwinding when you cut them, which can result in the string going dead very quickly indeed. For this reason, many folks don't cut their strings at all (and I'm one of them). Nevertheless, if you haven't had a problem with the specific brand of string you're using unwinding, I think you're fine.