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Lifco amp video


simus35

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I did a video of my Lifco amp. please be gentle with my playing is the first time i put a video of me doing some stuff with my guitar. i was doing anything to show what the amp can do

my video

sorry for my english i'm a french Canadien

 

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yes but i just send back my amp to the tech guy and i was angry because when i put the master volume at 3 the amp began to spackling and i look at the bill all the cap he change doesn't have the same damn value. i just send it back to the store and said to the guy send it back to you supposed best tech guy in Kingston and do the job again and put the same damn value inside and don't told me again that doesn't exist anymore because i can find on the net in electronic store because at the price he charge me 328$ is the price of Blackheart handsome devil 15h. i just begin to be piss off and thanks for the comment Bluesape

sorry for my english i'm a french Canadien

 

fender 65 Twin Reverb reissue

Fender Stratocaster 1999 MIA

Fender Stratocaster 2013 MIA

Godin Artisan ST-5

Godin LG Signature

Seagull S6

Yes I love Godin guitar

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hey bro,

alot of those caps AREN'T available.

 

do you really want him ordering stuff on ebay, waiting for months for it to arrive, and charging you MORE for both the shipping and the price of expensive individual parts?

 

capacitors generally have HUGE tolerances. all ya gotta be is "close enough" anywhere but perhaps in the driver stage, and that's only if you want it "blueprinted"....which often doesn't sound as good as slightly mis-matched components.

 

if he replaced say, 22mfd caps with 25mfd...no difference tonally.

 

if he replaced coupling caps in the preamp, as long as they're within about a 20% tolerance...no real change in tone.

 

most caps , particularly in vintage amps, had a tolerance of +/- 80 percent...that's right, EIGHTY.

 

they aren't all that crucial to be dead on...capacitance varies all over the place, and as long as the part is close enough for rocknroll, ya really don't need to worry about it all that much.

 

fwiw, the amp in your example sounds GREAT.

 

so...what the hell is wrong with it? which part(s) didn't he replace exactly?

 

not to be a buzzkill, but you probably owe the guy an apology. i doubt he did anything any other good tech wouldn't do. people freak out cuz they don't know...which is what i'm getting out of your post...but in reality, a difference of 20 points either way isn't gonna really matter much. for real.

 

 

so...which cap(s) are you talking about? what are the values?

what did he put in? there's a LOT of alternatives out there, and often the most toneful aren't the most expensive.

 

 

in francais:

 

hey bro,

beaucoup de ces casques ne sont pas disponibles.

 

voulez-vous vraiment lui ordonnant des trucs sur ebay, en attendant pendant des mois pour qu'il arrive, et vous facturer plus pour les l'expédition et le prix des pièces individuelles coûteuses?

 

condensateurs ont généralement tolérances ÉNORMES. tu te sens tout est "suffisamment proche" n'importe où, mais peut-être dans la phase pilote, et c'est seulement si vous voulez qu'il "blueprinted" .... qui, souvent, ne sonne pas aussi bon que les composants légèrement mal appariés.

 

s'il remplacé dire, casquettes 22mfd avec 25mfd ... Pas de différence tonale.

 

s'il a remplacé les chapeaux de couplage dans le préampli, tant qu'ils sont dans environ une tolérance de 20% ... pas de véritable changement dans le ton.

 

la plupart des bouchons, en particulier dans des amplis vintage, ont une tolérance de + / - 80 pour cent ... c'est vrai, QUATRE-VINGT.

 

ils ne sont pas tout ce qui essentiel d'être mort sur la ... capacité varie un peu partout, et aussi longtemps que la partie est assez étroite pour rocknroll, ya vraiment pas besoin de s'inquiéter à ce sujet tant que ça.

 

FWIW, l'ampli dans votre exemple sonne bien.

 

alors ... qu'est-ce qui ne va pas? dont une partie (s) n'at-il pas remplacer exactement?

 

de ne pas être un empoisonnement, mais vous doivent probablement le gars des excuses. Je doute qu'il n'a rien fait toute autre bonne technologie ne ferait pas. les gens paniquer cuz ils ne savent pas ... qui est ce que je vais sortir de votre post ... mais en réalité, un écart de 20 points, soit la façon dont est ne vais pas vraiment beaucoup d'importance. pour de vrai.

 

 

alors ... qui bouchon (s) parlez-vous? quelles sont les valeurs?

qu'at-il mis en? il ya beaucoup d'alternatives là-bas, et souvent le toneful plupart ne sont pas le plus cher.

 

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to pinkjimiphoton

i understand that but they have a huge difference just like the big brown cap he remove the value is 80 mfd@450 v on the bill i saw one off those but i'm not sure wich one is it (1-220 ufd@100v or 1-10ufd@450v) wich one replace the one he remove and i will told you the other value he remove from my amp like this one is 250 uf@16v is probably one of the value i put in() after that 2 time 8uf@250v and on my bill have those(2-100ufd@450v or 2-220ufd@450v or 2- 10ufd@150v or 3- 47 ufd@450v) and the last cap he remove is 10uf@400V but i don't have the other cap he remove. if you count he give me back 5 cap and on the bill saw 11 cap he put if forgot to give me other cap he remove on my blueprint on my amp i don't have any value near the one he put

and i did the video with the master volume at 1.5. but the day after i decide to test the amps with the master volume at near 5 to see how it sound and is at this time i heard the amp begin to make some strange noise

sorry for my english i'm a french Canadien

 

fender 65 Twin Reverb reissue

Fender Stratocaster 1999 MIA

Fender Stratocaster 2013 MIA

Godin Artisan ST-5

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well, there are no 80mf caps at 450v...usually we put two 40's in at 450 in parallel, which is equivalent to 80.

 

if he had put in a 10mf at 100v in the power supply, it would have blown up. the 100v is most likely for the bias supply.

 

250mf is way too high for most places in the amp...if he changed that, he probably did you a favor. that's enough to make the amp become unstable.

 

i'm having a hard time understanding you, but it appears he replaced weird values with standard values, and in some cases in series/or parallel to get it in the ballpark of the original caps.

 

that is pretty standard when working with tube amps. i mean, 8mf is more than close enough to 10mf.... the other values would most likely make sense too, but i would have to see a schematic.

 

the point is, he did what most folks do. it's not rocket science bro.

 

what kind of weird noise are you talking about? is it making a put-put-put-put sound?

 

oscillation?

 

squeal?

 

i'd need more info bro.

 

 

ainsi, il n'ya pas de bouchons 80mf à 450v ... en général nous avons mis deux de 40 à à 450 en parallèle, ce qui équivaut à 80.

 

s'il avait mis dans un 10mF à 100V de l'alimentation, il aurait sauté. le 100v est le plus probable pour l'alimentation de polarisation.

 

250mf est beaucoup trop élevé pour la plupart des endroits dans l'ampli ... si il a changé cela, il a probablement fait une faveur. c'est assez pour faire l'ampli devenir instable.

 

Je vais avoir du mal à vous comprendre, mais il semble qu'il a remplacé les valeurs bizarres avec des valeurs standard, et dans certains cas en série / parallèle ou de l'obtenir dans la bonne fourchette des chapeaux originaux.

 

qui est assez standard lorsque l'on travaille avec des amplis à tubes. je veux dire, 8mf est plus que suffisamment proche de 10mF .... les autres valeurs serait très probablement donner un sens trop, mais je dois voir un schéma.

 

le point est, il a fait ce la plupart des gens le faire. ce n'est pas la science de fusée bro.

 

quel genre de bruit bizarre que tu racontes? est-il faire un Put-Put-Put-Put son?

 

oscillation?

 

crissent?

 

J'aurais besoin de plus d 'info bro.

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thanks for the schematic, dan...

 

i looked at it, i see where you got upset...but...

 

it looks like he did what we all do...replaced obsolete values of caps with the nearest standard values...

 

like i said, within 20 (heck, even 50) % tolerance is fine.

 

but....there MAY be a cold solder joint, that could explain the weird noise you describe.

 

happens to the best of us as well as the worst.

 

take it back, ask him to make it right. you paid a lot of money to have it overhauled, tell him another tech in america said he should make it right for you and check it over right quick.

 

best of luck mon ami

 

peace

 

jimi

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