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RichieP_MechE

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About RichieP_MechE

  • Birthday 10/09/1986

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  • homepage
    www.monvalleyphotoworks.com
  • occupation
    Mechanical Engineer
  • hobbies
    Photography, machining, welding, woodworking
  • Location
    Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

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  1. Cheapest model currently is a about 6k USD. More "affordable" being around $4k maybe? Consider me intrigued.
  2. A masterclass in drawbar technique right here (solo starts at the 2:10 mark)
  3. Sadly, you are mistaken. The Rhodes has a simple action which is essentially two pieces (key and hammer) while the Wurly is basically a miniaturized piano action (like 8+ pieces). So, compared to a Rhodes recreation, the Wurly 2.0 would likely end up being more expensive due to having more parts to make and more labor to put all those parts together. $2500 price target is generous unless you are going to be able to sell 50,000 of these things. My extremely ballpark estimate from my experience doing some manufacturing cost estimates at my day job is 1000 units could be made for around $12,000/ea assuming made in USA labor rates. And now I'm going to be thinking about this for the rest of the week and how I would design one with 21st century manufacturing techniques, so thanks for that
  4. I associate these types of rubber buttons with TV remotes. Searching for "remote control carbon button" turned up a few things. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264383555845 https://www.amazon.com/CaiKot-Conductive-Silver-Coating-surfaces/dp/B003D8G8SY https://www.sciplus.com/keypad-fix-45985-p https://www.ebay.com/itm/134102575450?chn=ps&var=433547190186
  5. Enjoy! I was all set to go to my 7th SP show tomorrow night, but I had an unexpected work trip come up and am going to miss it now.
  6. That diagram is a good resource! You don't have to cut the TRS plug off for initial testing. Here's how I disassemble the triple pedal Remove the 5 screws holding in the metal base plate Note that there are two plastic spacers on the back side of the metal plate, make sure those are in place when you re-assemble everything. They are fit into the rubber foot insert but they can fall out Remove the two screws holding in the pedal assembly Use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently pry out the pedal assembly Once it has started to break loose, pull out the locking bar (note its orientation for when you have to re-insert it later.) You should then be able to slide out the pedal assembly. Turn it over and you will see the solder points for the cable. Using your multimeter in continuity mode, test for continuity of each wire in the assembly from the connector to the corresponding solder pad on the circuit board. If you don't have continuity on any of the circuits, the next thing to check will be the wire attachment points at the connector. Loosen the metal barrel of the connector from the strain relief to check that all of the wires and solder joints are intact. If the connector is fine, and you don't have continuity on at least one of the wires, there likely is an internal break. To find the break, I cut the wire a few inches from the connector and again at the other end a few inches from the circuit board, stripped back the wires and checked for continuity again. I repeated this process, cutting a few inches off at a time, until I had continuity on all 3 wires. My cable had some weird bends near the pedal side of the cable, so that's where I focused most of my trimming. Continuity was restored after I cut off about 12 inches from the pedal end of the wire. There may be better techniques for finding the break in the wire, but I was lucky that the break was near one of the ends. With my technique, it would be possible to cut up most of the wire if the break was in the middle of the cable. So keep that in mind as you hack away at it. After I found the break, I resoldered the connector and circuit board on either end of the cable, did another continuity check to confirm the connections, then reassembled the pedal. If you don't find a continuity issue, then it is possible that there could be a bad resistor or an issue with the pedal contacts. However, since you mention that a regular sustain pedal sometimes has issues with your Nord, it is likely that the pedal jack on the Nord is faulty.
  7. Mr G is right, a multimeter will be helpful in determining the pedal functionality. If the jack on the board is failing, that can be replaced if you're handy with a soldering iron. Coincidentally, just this past weekend I repaired my Nord triple pedal. With my multimeter I determined that there was an internal break in the cable somewhere. Gradually cut sections of the cable and re-checked until I had continuity. Cable ended up being about 16"/40 cm shorter after I found the break (it was the end of the cable near the pedal housing). Re-soldered the cable on both ends and it's working again.
  8. Our boy @Bobadohshe posted a nice musical tribute to Wayne on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/CpTlassP1uk/
  9. RIP Mr. Shorter. Thanks for all the great tunes.
  10. Zombie thread alert!! Greg and Dave have continued this tradition for the past two years - this year they had an actual in-person concert with lots of special guests. I had to share this one as Greg really knocks this performance out of the park!
  11. As my forum handle indicates, I'm a mechanical engineer. Working in robotics research and development since I graduated ~13 years ago. Definitely a fun and interesting job that has given me the opportunity to make lots of cool stuff! I consider myself lucky that I'm just a mediocre musician - it led me to a very lucrative career path that I would have missed had I been a better musician and gone to music school instead.
  12. Sad day in Pittsburgh - Franco Harris has passed away, just a few days shy of the 50th anniversary of the Immaculate Reception. RIP Franco! https://apnews.com/article/pittsburgh-steelers-nfl-college-football-sports-efc7c3e417ad04594ae32a3fbc0a693a
  13. Nothing in IEC spec requires a fuse. The tech guy (sounds like a guy who sets up lights, screens, PA systems for events) from MOI's story is generalizing, but is "wrong" - not all IEC connectors have a built in fuse compartment. Any good equipment power supply design should have a fuse somewhere, but not all equipment manufacturers make them accessible from the exterior of the device.
  14. Without googling it, guess the drummer!
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