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Originally Posted By: Dglavko
Will post pics if I can figure out how.

Compared to your ingenious 2nd-tier solution, figuring out how to post pics should be a piece of cake. ;-) Looking forward to seeing the pix...


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Go figure - my photo posting abilities are lacking - (can't figure out how to delete my old old mojo-moog pics so pease ignore them And the resolution of this new stand pics is not so great - how do y'all do this?) but hopefully you get the idea.

Looking at the photos underneath, I think I will slide the numa forward some as the Nord fulcrum looks rather precarious though it feels quite solid.

Also in my plan is to velcro the "height blocks" to the k&m once i find the ideal height. Currently it is still a bit short for standing.

Although I have been trying to move to one keyboard rig, I must confess that two is way more fun. So I am gravitating towards standing rather than sitting as that means one less piece of gear (ie the bench : and the numa and stool weigh the same!!) i also schlep a saxophone or two most gigs.

Suggestions welcome.

http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/dglavko/library/Snapbucket

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Brilliant!

Why do you need the "height blocks"? I simply adjust the 18881 for the proper height, on the legs at the bottom.

As mentioned above, it's a nuisance that you need a wrench to do it, so this stand isn't ideal for someone who wants one stand for multiple purposes with different heights for different gigs. I suspect that could be fixed by replacing the four bolts with 1/4" clevis pins, though. It wouldn't be as rigid, but would be fine with weight on it.

I like the fact that the 18881 folds up to one piece for carrying. But I'm sure someone could easily create a top tier that works pretty much the same way as the 18881's, and for a lot less than $90! The extra weight of a wood solution wouldn't be an issue, since the stand is so light.

I'm finding the holes I drilled to get the top tier 2 mc lower is working great. Next time I'll try the other set I drilled, but I think I prefer a bit of a gap to be able to peer in and see the display on my bottom tier when I need to (without moving the top keyboard, which I've done and isn't too bad since I don't often need to see the display.)

I meant to take pics but realized on the way to the show that I'd left my phone at home. Oops.

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I have the 18880 and I'm thinking of spraying it with a clear plastic protective coating to reduce paintwork damage. I know you can get it for car alloys. It would be a cheaper option and less cumbersome than another case to carry the stand in.

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In my mind the biggest benefit of the case is to help prevent the loss of any bolts, screws or other hardware bits that could be shed off during transport...... BUT I don't know the stand yet. This may not be an issue.


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The knobs that allow the stand to come together only need to he slackened slightly to allow both sides to come together. The other two knobs that hold the brace and second tier together also just slacken, take off the brace and then retighten. Nothing needs to be taken off completely.

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Originally Posted By: b3boy
The knobs that allow the stand to come together only need to he slackened slightly to allow both sides to come together. The other two knobs that hold the brace and second tier together also just slacken, take off the brace and then retighten. Nothing needs to be taken off completely.


thu

been loving mine - my NS2 on bottom, sk1 on top - compact foot print, solid support, nice and light!!


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I can't take it anymore! Ordered one, this morning!

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Originally Posted By: learjeff
Brilliant!

Why do you need the "height blocks"? I simply adjust the 18881 for the proper height, on the legs at the bottom.

As mentioned above, it's a nuisance that you need a wrench to do it, so this stand isn't ideal for someone who wants one stand for multiple purposes with different heights for different gigs. I suspect that could be fixed by replacing the four bolts with 1/4" clevis pins, though. It wouldn't be as rigid, but would be fine with weight on it.

I like the fact that the 18881 folds up to one piece for carrying. But I'm sure someone could easily create a top tier that works pretty much the same way as the 18881's, and for a lot less than $90! The extra weight of a wood solution wouldn't be an issue, since the stand is so light.

I'm finding the holes I drilled to get the top tier 2 mc lower is working great. Next time I'll try the other set I drilled, but I think I prefer a bit of a gap to be able to peer in and see the display on my bottom tier when I need to (without moving the top keyboard, which I've done and isn't too bad since I don't often need to see the display.)

I meant to take pics but realized on the way to the show that I'd left my phone at home. Oops.

Wow I completely missed that there was a height adjustment until now! Thanks a million for pointing that out!

Now if only I can figure out how to post images correctly...

You're also right about needing a "peer in gap" being appropriate for keyboards with knobs on the lower half. I just prefer to have my menu ridden Nord on top where I can see all the controls, and the knob sparse Numa on the bottom, so I can have the keyboards nice and close.

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Yup, that's ideal. That's one of the good things about the Korg SV-1, with the forward-facing control strip. But too bad they made the top curved instead of flat. I use the flat surfaces on my keyboards!

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Another smart thing they did was make the power on toggle switch toggle down to power it. Sounds simple but I have a couple of amplifiers that have toggle switches. They both toggle up to power on. Meaning anything falls off the amp, the cord or your hand touches it and the power goes off!


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Yup, I've had mine for quite a while and still digging it! For some nostalgia and added edification, I present you with the link (with pix) of my thread here about it:

clonkety

smile


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Originally Posted By: MoodyBluesKeys
I have the 18880 and 18881 - well built aircraft grade aluminum, but I wouldn't want to toss it in a trailer without padding. I do put it on my card with a couple of bungee cords, and put the cart in the van.

As our Brit friends would say, "there's too many 'twiddly-bits'."

I'm assuming from the trailer that a good bit of equipment is hauled (maybe for the whole band?). The main supports would just have the paint scratched, but the accordion type section that opens it up, and the upper support bar to hold it open might be a problem.

I also have the 2-tier version of the OnStage Z stand and the OnStage case for it. Putting the stand in the case takes a bit of time, and the whole thing weighs a LOT more than the K&M.


Yeah, I seem to feel there are two types of gear:
The car-transport, make it light and small
The van/roadie haul, make it indestructible regardless of how heavy or bulky.

Gig bags, soft cases, and this stand are in the first category. It's the only way I travel ... even if we put all our gear in one SUV, we the musicians are handling it so we are careful and nothing gets broken. But if I was touring and had a road crew, man, everything in flight cases!


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I forgot about that crossbrace. That's because I never use it!

Before I ditched the crossbar altogther, I had my husband file out one of the holes so that it is a notch instead. This cut even more time out of the setup time required because I only had to swing the crossbar around and slip it onto the one side where it wasn't attached -- no completely unscrewing that one screw! grin I know, lazy, lazy, lazy. So lazy that now I don't use the crossbar at all. I've had no problems with that MO. I would say it's important to make sure you've got those 4 stabilizing screws nice and secure to avoid wobble ... easy enough to do, and I never get the wobbles.

As far as "accordion maintenance," doesn't hurt to once in a while go thru your accordion fence nuts and bolts and make sure they are not too loose. You obviously need some play there because the joints all have to move, but too loose and it can start to rattle, and you may get warpage like what happened to Aidan's stand. But I have has this for, what, 2 years, not a ton of gigging but it gets a lot of use, and it's been great!

Also, when gigging two-tier, I can get my boards nice and close; I just put the upper tiers in the slots and let them stay there, free floating. I am short, so my stand is at the lowest or second-to-lowest height -- this means the 2d tier bars must be resting on those legs inside the tube. For those of you who raise the stand, this might not work to get the tiers closer; you might have to drill holes.

Last edited by Michelle (ggurl); 05/06/14 02:03 PM. Reason: stop making sense

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Originally Posted By: CEB
I'm hoping mine is here this week.


CEB, if you have problems getting the stacker maybe try Music Stands Alone? That's where I got mine.


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Hello. I got a 18880 stand recently. VERY pleased with it. For the top tier I got 18882 - stacker B. Not sure what the difference is between that and 18881, but the stacker B is great. Strongly recommend that anyone who wants another tier considers getting this instead of 18881..... :-)


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I think the difference is, you can add another tier to the 18882 and extend/shrink the depth.

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Originally Posted By: Michelle (ggurl)
Before I ditched the crossbar altogther, I had my husband file out one of the holes so that it is a notch instead. This cut even more time out of the setup time required because I only had to swing the crossbar around and slip it onto the one side where it wasn't attached -- no completely unscrewing that one screw! grin I know, lazy, lazy, lazy.

Actually, the latest edition has one side of the crossbar notched. K&M might owe you some royalties! grin

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Oh wait, yeah, It started out with one notch. Now I remember: because I have the stand set to shortest position, I had him notch out the OTHER side so that I can remove the entire bar for transport. It's been so long since I've used the bar that I forgot about that. grin


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I have a question.

Looks like there is plenty room for pedals, but how about sitting and your legs hitting the accordion braces versus the amount of length of the main rail for the overhang of the bottom board.

I would be playing a MOXF8 or Artis on the bottom and occasionally my stage 2 or MOXF6 on the 18881.
I am wondering because it looks like there is not a lot of horizontal room between "overhang" and the accordion braces.


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I usually use a PC3 lower, sometimes PC361 upper on the K&M stand, run an expression pedal on at least one, and at least one switch pedal on each board. I play seated, and don't have any problem with my legs (note that I frequently have the expression pedal just outside the left hand side of the stand. I'm 5' 11", and have the stand set so the lower board is about the same height as my acoustic grand's keyboard.


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I just ordered an 18880 and 18881 from Music Stands Alone.

They had some in stock and I believe he has one 18880 left.

Real nice service and pleasant buying experience


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Michelle, I want to thank you and a few others here for pointing these stands out. I really dig mine.

Originally Posted By: HAM&EGZ
Looks like there is plenty room for pedals, but how about sitting and your legs hitting the accordion braces versus the amount of length of the main rail for the overhang of the bottom board.
When I play an acoustic piano, my knees are either not under or are just barely under the piano keyboard. That is, I don't sit with the bench in tight to the piano. I've always played other keyboards pretty much the same way.

I can't imagine having my stool so close to the keyboard that my knees would get anywhere near the braces. My pedals are in front of them, for the most part.

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You're welcome, Jeff! smile I'm usually such a noncontributor when it comes to gear bc mine is generally ancient, so I was excited to share my find with others when I discovered this stand.


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Last year, I bought the K & M 18810 for my studio. Love it - very sturdy. Suits my needs.

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Originally Posted By: SteveCoscia
Last year, I bought the K & M 18810 for my studio. Love it - very sturdy. Suits my needs.
For studio use, I'd think a Z stand would be at least as good and less expensive, and there's no need for the light weight. But if it works, it works!

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Originally Posted By: RichieP_MechE
Originally Posted By: learjeff
I'm tempted to shorten the tier arms so the top board sits farther back, but I won't do that for quite a while if at all.
I'm planning on doing this with mine, as I found that I tend to place my upper board (Electro 4D) further back so I can see the interface of my lower board better (NP2 or Electro 3 73). And since I have modified the 2nd tier to be lower, the arms get in the way a bit as they extend over the lower board's keys somewhat

Finally had a chance to make this modification; here's some crappy cell phone camera photos of the process.


Before


Trimming off 2 inches in the horzontal bandsaw


Comparison: Untrimmed vs. trimmed


After

Last edited by RichieP_MechE; 05/12/14 10:03 PM.
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The joy of having a nice shop! Looks great!

Someday I may do that to mine, but I just pull the bottom keyboard forward enough to match with the top. With a much shallower board on bottom like the Nord, I might want to trim it. I don't need the pins (but I left them in).

Blues jam tonight; pics if I remember my damn phone and it doesn't die (it doesn't last long on battery, ever since I dropped it in the water.)

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Originally Posted By: learjeff
Originally Posted By: SteveCoscia
Last year, I bought the K & M 18810 for my studio. Love it - very sturdy. Suits my needs.
For studio use, I'd think a Z stand would be at least as good and less expensive, and there's no need for the light weight. But if it works, it works!
I meant to delete this post after I saw that you said 18810 and not 18880, but evidently it didn't work. So, insert the :doh: pic here.

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Originally Posted By: learjeff
The joy of having a nice shop! Looks great!

Someday I may do that to mine, but I just pull the bottom keyboard forward enough to match with the top. With a much shallower board on bottom like the Nord, I might want to trim it. I don't need the pins (but I left them in).

Blues jam tonight; pics if I remember my damn phone and it doesn't die (it doesn't last long on battery, ever since I dropped it in the water.)


Tell me that you didn't drop it in the loo, LearJeff!

BTW, where is the blues jam tonight?

ITGITC? cool


"Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo
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