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I want to pick some brains


Guitarzan

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ok here is the deal, i am going to the local store to check out the Traynor YCV 40 wr and YCV 20.

the "20" is class a.

have any of you spent time with these amps? what can you tell me about thier sounds. i have heard they run from a fender like clean to a marshall crunch.

this is what i am hoping to confirm, especially the marshall part.

what can you tell me about "class a" operation in terms that a stupid guitar player will understand.

if any of you have played P90's through one i would welcome your comments.

ready

set

go!

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I'm in the same boat as you, Guitarzan ... this weekend I'm heading off to a local store to check out the YCV20 (and the WR). If I get it before you, I'll let you know how it works out.

 

Mind you, I keep hearing about "Class A" amps that aren't really Class A ... I recall Myles mentioning it in his tube amp thread or primer (or perhaps both?) in reference to one of the Vox amps ...

 

Anyone else know what I'm talking about?

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I'd rather have Grade AAA - but us bass players are often happy to settle for Class D or Class H since the power conversion is so much more efficent. But even for guitar, I wonder why the big deal over A as opposed to AB or whatever.

 

Yeah. I'm no purist ; }

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Class A operation means that the tubes or transistors that are amplifying your signal are drawing current all the time (100% duty cycle).

 

Class B operation means that the tubes or transistors are only drawing current 50% of the time.

Class AB is somewhere inbetween Class A and Class B. (duh. :rolleyes: ) The duty cycle is somewhere around 75%.

 

Class C is where the duty cycle is less than 50%.

 

What all this means is that the Class A is less efficient and generates more heat. The plus side of Class A is that you get less distortion of the waveform in the power stage when played clean. Of course, most guitar players over-drive their tube amps on purpose.

 

You should let your ears decide for you. :)

BlueStrat

a.k.a. "El Guapo" ;)

 

...Better fuzz through science...

 

http://geocities.com/teleman28056/index.html

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Originally posted by Noodlesbad:

Mind you, I keep hearing about "Class A" amps that aren't really Class A ... I recall Myles mentioning it in his tube amp thread or primer (or perhaps both?) in reference to one of the Vox amps ...

 

Anyone else know what I'm talking about?

That would be the Vox AC-30. It's really a class AB design. So is the Matchless DC-30, if I'm not mistaken. Some people think that if the amp is cathode biased, it's Class A. Not true.

BlueStrat

a.k.a. "El Guapo" ;)

 

...Better fuzz through science...

 

http://geocities.com/teleman28056/index.html

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Don't worry about whether the amp is class A or not. The most common class A amp is the Fender Champ.

 

Class A is demanded by audiophiles looking for the cleanest sound possible. Obviously, we guitarists have different goals.

 

To generalize (very) broadly, class A amps sound "smoother" when overdriven. But there are a lot of other factors going on aside from operating class that dramatically affect the sound.

 

Just listen to the amp and decide if you like it or not.

"You never can vouch for your own consciousness." - Norman Mailer
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I dunno about all-tube designs. But the days when "distortion" of non-Class A amps was something most people could distinguish are long gone. We are talking magnitudes of difference here between "audio engineer" distortion by definition, and guitar amp distortion.
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Originally posted by bluestrat:

Originally posted by Noodlesbad:

Mind you, I keep hearing about "Class A" amps that aren't really Class A ... I recall Myles mentioning it in his tube amp thread or primer (or perhaps both?) in reference to one of the Vox amps ...

 

Anyone else know what I'm talking about?

That would be the Vox AC-30. It's really a class AB design. So is the Matchless DC-30, if I'm not mistaken. Some people think that if the amp is cathode biased, it's Class A. Not true.
I'd guess you're bang on with this. I mentioned when describing what that Road King thing wouldn't do and it's this AB thing that these manufactures rely on. Interestingly few of them out there too.

 

Well stated explanation for the everyman there Blue :thu:

I still think guitars are like shoes, but louder.

 

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The YCV20 and the YCV40 are both great sounding amps. THe bigger one sounded pretty bad to me for some reason. I had a YCV20 for a short while, and rehearsed with iti but never played it out. I really liked it, and would still have it but for some financial straits that hit me about the same time that I bought it.

Always remember that you�re unique. Just like everyone else.

 

 

 

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Originally posted by rockincyanblues:

Yorkville is shortly, or has already, introduced a YCV "Blue" with EL84's in the power stage.

 

Just another amp to confuse the mix.

 

Paul

Nothing on the Yorkville website that I can find, but there has been some chatter at the Fender forum .

 

Long and McQuade (big Canadian music store chain for you non-Canucks) are touting November as "Yorkville month", so there you go ... I gather it's EL34s, not EL84s, in the power stage (I mix them up all the time myself ...).

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I play the YCV-40 as my main amp. I get more than enough oomph to get over a drummer and even stun small animals if I try. The tone is broadly speaking somewhere between a Fender and a Marshall. I mostly use the clean channel, but the overdrive is servicable. It seems to like my single coils (ie Strats and Tele's) just fine. I'm thinking that should translate well for P90's but who knows. I think its a great value for the money. I run just the cable between my guitar and the amp. Can be a bit bright, but tameable with the tone controls.

 

Oh yeah the power tubes are self-biasing saving some maintenance grief and allowing you to replace one at a time if you have to.

 

There are other threads on the forum you can check out as well

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