Feel free to ask Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bassman59:

Thank You Myles

 

I really appreciate your help..

 

Man i wish you were in Boston

Bassman59 ....

 

Actually ... I sort of wished I was in Boston too For 6 1/2 years I worked for a company called Data General. I lived in Framingham, and spent a lot of time in Newton, Boston, Natick, and actually, all over back there.

 

Great boats ... great food .... and unlike So Cal where we are called the "golden state" because everything is BROWN, back there you have water and things are green.

 

Mass is a great state in general, but I also have soft spots for Maine (Castine ... Eaton Boatyard), but also for Vinyard Haven Mass (Dick Newick boatyard).

[snake77]

Hi Myles,

 

I am a new user to these forums, and new to guitars and amps in general.

 

I was told to listen to what you had to say and ask you (sounds like you are the equipment guru) what you thought about my recent head purchase. It is a Marshall 2210, 100W head, I believe made around 1985-1987. It has a master volume, reverb, two channels (clean and distorted), currently has four Svetlana EL34 power tubes and five 7025 Groove Tubes. Playing it for about 15 minutes before I bought it for $375 USD, the clean channel sounded very nice and crisp. The distorted channel sounded a bit flat, didn't quite have that crunch I have heard when playing new Marshalls, almost like it was much weaker for the same and higher volume levels than the clean channel. We had the master volume cranked and the channels at about volume 4-5, through a Crate 4x12" slant cab, speakers unknown.

 

I don't know much about this amp yet, I got as much info as I could and wanted a simple, powerful amp I could use in the future. My electronics instructor recommended pulling out two power tubes so I didn't get the neighbors mad, and offered to help me test each of the tubes with a couple dynamic vacuum tube testers (he used to own a music shop, and before that repaired TVs for a long time).

 

I play punk and rock music mainly, both fast and slow. I'd like to get some punch out of the amp, and will possibly use a Vintage RAT fuzzbox from time to time. I have a Fender Standard Stratocaster with stock pickups, hopefully I will replace those soon too to get rid of the ringing. I plan to buy a 2x12" box and 2x12" Celestion speakers for it, I only have a car and a 4x12" won't fit anywhere.

 

Do you have any recommendations for my setup/guitar/music type, tune ups or anything I should change/look for in particular with my combination? Thank you very much for taking time to read and consider my post, I really appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

 

With the help of my electronics instructor, we tested all of the EL34 and 7025 tubes.

 

The EL34s were ~85, 81, 79 and 75 micromhos (transconductance?), and did not show any signs of grid leakage or shorts. We let the tubes preheat for about 2 minutes each before testing, and also did a "life test", which I guess loads the tubes to see if they will fail, all passed. We also tested ten 6CA7 EL34 Westinghouse tubes (made in Hungary, had been on the shelf a long time) and they came out eight at 80 micromhos and 2 at 75 micromhos.

 

We also tested the 7025 Groove Tubes, only two were matched internally, none came out the same, one was way off at about 20 and 30 micromhos. Tested a box of five Westinghouse (USA) 7025s and came out with around 30 and 30, and 40 and 30 micromhos.

 

The case was very clean, had never been worked on. It was dated 24-10-87 and had 5 transistors for the effects loop, instead of one chip. I am still looking online for a manual/schematic and will call Marshall on Monday to see what they offer also. Right now its still apart because I couldn't find the grid bias voltage online or in any schematic I downloaded, so I guess I will have to wait.

 

Thats what I remember, if I left something out please let me know.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

[michael saulnier]

Myles,

 

I can't say enough THANKS for your advice about getting a THD Univalve and using it as a pre-amp for my HR Deluxe. It has become "my sound" and I can't imagine playing without it.

 

As I've recently said a few times here... I am AMAZED at how good this sounds. I'm finding LOTS of different THD settings that work great and I know I need to contact you soon to expand my selection of tubes... but even with the ones I have, the choices you have from tweaking the amps settings are awesome.

 

I find the instrument level line out -> AMP IN on my HR Deluxe to be an awesome combination. I can adjust the line out level from no sound to WAY LOUD, and I'm still hitting the HR Deluxe's poweramp and speaker... This is an great feature of this amp, and one that gives me access to the THD sound at virtually ANY volume level.

 

I do have one question I was hoping you would know the answer to...

 

I have my Randall Iso cab connected to the extention speaker jack on my HR Deluxe. This works well, and gives me reverb from the HR Deluxe on the iso cab.

 

I know you shouldn't run the HR Deluxe without the load of a speaker. But what if I've got the extention cab plugged in?

 

What I'd LIKE to be able to do is still use the poweramp and reverb of the HR Deluxe, along with the volume reduction of the iso cab. Does the extention cab create enough of a "speaker load" that it's safe to unplug the main speaker?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

guitplayer

[michael saulnier]

OK,

 

I found the answer to this on my own. Fender.com has a .pdf version of the user manual that explains the main speaker out and the external speaker are in parallel and if the main is disconnected, the external jack is also.

 

But I suppose I could just connect the speaker cable to my iso cab directly into the main speaker output, unplugging the internal speaker.

 

The iso cab's 8 ohms, the same as the internal speaker, so there would still be the correct speaker load, right?

 

guitplayer

[rsf1977]

Mesa Boogie Dual Rect 2- Channel

 

hey myles, here's my problem my amps volume started sputtering between it's normal volume and a crackling whisper like an AM radio. I have isolated the problem to only happen when the effects loop is on, but I have tested all my effects with another amp and they seem fine. Any ideas, what the problem with the loop is?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by snake77:

Hi Myles,

 

I am a new user to these forums, and new to guitars and amps in general.

 

I was told to listen to what you had to say and ask you (sounds like you are the equipment guru) what you thought about my recent head purchase. It is a Marshall 2210, 100W head, I believe made around 1985-1987. It has a master volume, reverb, two channels (clean and distorted), currently has four Svetlana EL34 power tubes and five 7025 Groove Tubes. Playing it for about 15 minutes before I bought it for $375 USD, the clean channel sounded very nice and crisp. The distorted channel sounded a bit flat, didn't quite have that crunch I have heard when playing new Marshalls, almost like it was much weaker for the same and higher volume levels than the clean channel. We had the master volume cranked and the channels at about volume 4-5, through a Crate 4x12" slant cab, speakers unknown.

 

I don't know much about this amp yet, I got as much info as I could and wanted a simple, powerful amp I could use in the future. My electronics instructor recommended pulling out two power tubes so I didn't get the neighbors mad, and offered to help me test each of the tubes with a couple dynamic vacuum tube testers (he used to own a music shop, and before that repaired TVs for a long time).

 

I play punk and rock music mainly, both fast and slow. I'd like to get some punch out of the amp, and will possibly use a Vintage RAT fuzzbox from time to time. I have a Fender Standard Stratocaster with stock pickups, hopefully I will replace those soon too to get rid of the ringing. I plan to buy a 2x12" box and 2x12" Celestion speakers for it, I only have a car and a 4x12" won't fit anywhere.

 

Do you have any recommendations for my setup/guitar/music type, tune ups or anything I should change/look for in particular with my combination? Thank you very much for taking time to read and consider my post, I really appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

 

With the help of my electronics instructor, we tested all of the EL34 and 7025 tubes.

 

The EL34s were ~85, 81, 79 and 75 micromhos (transconductance?), and did not show any signs of grid leakage or shorts. We let the tubes preheat for about 2 minutes each before testing, and also did a "life test", which I guess loads the tubes to see if they will fail, all passed. We also tested ten 6CA7 EL34 Westinghouse tubes (made in Hungary, had been on the shelf a long time) and they came out eight at 80 micromhos and 2 at 75 micromhos.

 

We also tested the 7025 Groove Tubes, only two were matched internally, none came out the same, one was way off at about 20 and 30 micromhos. Tested a box of five Westinghouse (USA) 7025s and came out with around 30 and 30, and 40 and 30 micromhos.

 

The case was very clean, had never been worked on. It was dated 24-10-87 and had 5 transistors for the effects loop, instead of one chip. I am still looking online for a manual/schematic and will call Marshall on Monday to see what they offer also. Right now its still apart because I couldn't find the grid bias voltage online or in any schematic I downloaded, so I guess I will have to wait.

 

Thats what I remember, if I left something out please let me know.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

snake77 (Jason) ....

 

I am not sure where to start here, but I will try ....

 

On your Marshall, I know the amp.

 

On the 7025's .... loose them. It was obviously retubed. 7025's are too bright for that amp.

 

If you want the original sound, use ECC83's.

 

The Svets are fine in that amp, just make sure the bias is set properly, which in most amps, it is not.

 

You cannot use old tube testers for guitar amp output tubes. They do not develop the proper voltages for B+, and will give false good readings. Your readings show very mismatched tubes. You may want to read my info on matched output sections:

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/pastinfo.html

 

For your sort of sound, and for clients of mine with similar rigs and taste, I use:

 

For V1:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1587

SAG selected, with a 100-125 rating ( http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773 )

 

For V2 - same tube, SAG rated at 95-120.

 

For the phase inverter:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723

 

For the output tubes ... #6:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1691

 

You can buy ECC83's a lot of places. These above are hand selected.

 

The GT E34Ls is a 30 watt EL-34. The others around these days and from the past are 25 watters. THEY REQUIRE A REBIAS.

 

If you can get this fellow to sell you four of the 6CA7's that are matched into a quad, these will be the best of all!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by snake77:

Hi Myles,

 

I am a new user to these forums, and new to guitars and amps in general.

 

I was told to listen to what you had to say and ask you (sounds like you are the equipment guru) what you thought about my recent head purchase. It is a Marshall 2210, 100W head, I believe made around 1985-1987. It has a master volume, reverb, two channels (clean and distorted), currently has four Svetlana EL34 power tubes and five 7025 Groove Tubes. Playing it for about 15 minutes before I bought it for $375 USD, the clean channel sounded very nice and crisp. The distorted channel sounded a bit flat, didn't quite have that crunch I have heard when playing new Marshalls, almost like it was much weaker for the same and higher volume levels than the clean channel. We had the master volume cranked and the channels at about volume 4-5, through a Crate 4x12" slant cab, speakers unknown.

 

I don't know much about this amp yet, I got as much info as I could and wanted a simple, powerful amp I could use in the future. My electronics instructor recommended pulling out two power tubes so I didn't get the neighbors mad, and offered to help me test each of the tubes with a couple dynamic vacuum tube testers (he used to own a music shop, and before that repaired TVs for a long time).

 

I play punk and rock music mainly, both fast and slow. I'd like to get some punch out of the amp, and will possibly use a Vintage RAT fuzzbox from time to time. I have a Fender Standard Stratocaster with stock pickups, hopefully I will replace those soon too to get rid of the ringing. I plan to buy a 2x12" box and 2x12" Celestion speakers for it, I only have a car and a 4x12" won't fit anywhere.

 

Do you have any recommendations for my setup/guitar/music type, tune ups or anything I should change/look for in particular with my combination? Thank you very much for taking time to read and consider my post, I really appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

 

With the help of my electronics instructor, we tested all of the EL34 and 7025 tubes.

 

The EL34s were ~85, 81, 79 and 75 micromhos (transconductance?), and did not show any signs of grid leakage or shorts. We let the tubes preheat for about 2 minutes each before testing, and also did a "life test", which I guess loads the tubes to see if they will fail, all passed. We also tested ten 6CA7 EL34 Westinghouse tubes (made in Hungary, had been on the shelf a long time) and they came out eight at 80 micromhos and 2 at 75 micromhos.

 

We also tested the 7025 Groove Tubes, only two were matched internally, none came out the same, one was way off at about 20 and 30 micromhos. Tested a box of five Westinghouse (USA) 7025s and came out with around 30 and 30, and 40 and 30 micromhos.

 

The case was very clean, had never been worked on. It was dated 24-10-87 and had 5 transistors for the effects loop, instead of one chip. I am still looking online for a manual/schematic and will call Marshall on Monday to see what they offer also. Right now its still apart because I couldn't find the grid bias voltage online or in any schematic I downloaded, so I guess I will have to wait.

 

Thats what I remember, if I left something out please let me know.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jason

 

---Update 10/26/02---

snake77 (Jason) ....

 

I am not sure where to start here, but I will try ....

 

On your Marshall, I know the amp.

 

On the 7025's .... loose them. It was obviously retubed. 7025's are too bright for that amp.

 

If you want the original sound, use ECC83's.

 

The Svets are fine in that amp, just make sure the bias is set properly, which in most amps, it is not.

 

You cannot use old tube testers for guitar amp output tubes. They do not develop the proper voltages for B+, and will give false good readings. Your readings show very mismatched tubes. You may want to read my info on matched output sections:

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/pastinfo.html

 

For your sort of sound, and for clients of mine with similar rigs and taste, I use:

 

For V1:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1587

SAG selected, with a 100-125 rating ( http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773 )

 

For V2 - same tube, SAG rated at 95-120.

 

For the phase inverter:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723

 

For the output tubes ... #6:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1691

 

You can buy ECC83's a lot of places. These above are hand selected.

 

The GT E34Ls is a 30 watt EL-34. The others around these days and from the past are 25 watters. THEY REQUIRE A REBIAS.

 

If you can get this fellow to sell you four of the 6CA7's that are matched into a quad, these will be the best of all!

 

No preamp tubes made today will be matched over 85% of the time. It is just a matter of life these days.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by cat-o-nine-guitplayer:

Myles,

 

I can't say enough THANKS for your advice about getting a THD Univalve and using it as a pre-amp for my HR Deluxe. It has become "my sound" and I can't imagine playing without it.

 

As I've recently said a few times here... I am AMAZED at how good this sounds. I'm finding LOTS of different THD settings that work great and I know I need to contact you soon to expand my selection of tubes... but even with the ones I have, the choices you have from tweaking the amps settings are awesome.

 

I find the instrument level line out -> AMP IN on my HR Deluxe to be an awesome combination. I can adjust the line out level from no sound to WAY LOUD, and I'm still hitting the HR Deluxe's poweramp and speaker... This is an great feature of this amp, and one that gives me access to the THD sound at virtually ANY volume level.

 

I do have one question I was hoping you would know the answer to...

 

I have my Randall Iso cab connected to the extention speaker jack on my HR Deluxe. This works well, and gives me reverb from the HR Deluxe on the iso cab.

 

I know you shouldn't run the HR Deluxe without the load of a speaker. But what if I've got the extention cab plugged in?

 

What I'd LIKE to be able to do is still use the poweramp and reverb of the HR Deluxe, along with the volume reduction of the iso cab. Does the extention cab create enough of a "speaker load" that it's safe to unplug the main speaker?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

guitplayer

guitplayer ....

 

You are welcome, and in a later post from you, I think you said you answered this yourself.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by cat-o-nine-guitplayer:

OK,

 

I found the answer to this on my own. Fender.com has a .pdf version of the user manual that explains the main speaker out and the external speaker are in parallel and if the main is disconnected, the external jack is also.

 

But I suppose I could just connect the speaker cable to my iso cab directly into the main speaker output, unplugging the internal speaker.

 

The iso cab's 8 ohms, the same as the internal speaker, so there would still be the correct speaker load, right?

 

guitplayer

You are correct guitplayer.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by rsf1977:

Mesa Boogie Dual Rect 2- Channel

 

hey myles, here's my problem my amps volume started sputtering between it's normal volume and a crackling whisper like an AM radio. I have isolated the problem to only happen when the effects loop is on, but I have tested all my effects with another amp and they seem fine. Any ideas, what the problem with the loop is?

rsf1977 ....

 

Replace the send and return tube of your effects loop.

[AgentOrange]

Hi myles,

 

a brief visit away from the land of HC.....

 

As some of you may remember ive had my fair share of problems with this recto and its been great for months now, but today i heard a sound i hoped i would never hear ever again.

 

When i fire her up (my mesa Rectoverb 50W combo)its fine, just the usual background noise, but when i play for a bit, on certain notes i hear a rattle from inside, i imagine this is some sort of resonance the sound has with somthing inside.

 

Thats not so important, but its annoying, the real problem is when i stop. I get this low rumble/hum at about 50/60Hz. I had it before and phoned up all sorts of techs and they told me to put new tubes in and it worked. This was a good number of months back (probably about 5/6) and it solved it, but then i got this 'motorboating' putting sound and an arcing in the tubes so it went back to mesa and they 'fixed it'. It has been fine up to now so im a little worried that the problem stems a little beyond knackered tubes.

 

I do play loud, and its most obvious when i use the combo as a combo and i dont use my 4x12. It happened today cos my friend bought his 2204 for a practice but couldnt fit his cab in his car. I usually play with the channel master and output on 11 oclock to 12 oclock, which is pretty much flat out before the sound goes to crap. It was just as loud as his 2204 with everything on 10

 

also, another thing i noticed is even when the reverb is disengaged, i sometimes notice it bleeding through. Is there anything i can do about this?

 

Thoughts?

 

James

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by AgentOrange:

Hi myles,

 

a brief visit away from the land of HC.....

 

As some of you may remember ive had my fair share of problems with this recto and its been great for months now, but today i heard a sound i hoped i would never hear ever again.

 

When i fire her up (my mesa Rectoverb 50W combo)its fine, just the usual background noise, but when i play for a bit, on certain notes i hear a rattle from inside, i imagine this is some sort of resonance the sound has with somthing inside.

 

Thats not so important, but its annoying, the real problem is when i stop. I get this low rumble/hum at about 50/60Hz. I had it before and phoned up all sorts of techs and they told me to put new tubes in and it worked. This was a good number of months back (probably about 5/6) and it solved it, but then i got this 'motorboating' putting sound and an arcing in the tubes so it went back to mesa and they 'fixed it'. It has been fine up to now so im a little worried that the problem stems a little beyond knackered tubes.

 

I do play loud, and its most obvious when i use the combo as a combo and i dont use my 4x12. It happened today cos my friend bought his 2204 for a practice but couldnt fit his cab in his car. I usually play with the channel master and output on 11 oclock to 12 oclock, which is pretty much flat out before the sound goes to crap. It was just as loud as his 2204 with everything on 10

 

also, another thing i noticed is even when the reverb is disengaged, i sometimes notice it bleeding through. Is there anything i can do about this?

 

Thoughts?

 

James

AgentOrange (James)

 

Welcome to the "other forum" for a bit ....

 

Rattle inside .... a very common Mesa problem on all their combo amps.

 

Mesa has some sort of "unique" building practices. I have a lot of their amps, and over the years, have learned "the drill".

 

If you look at your amp, chances are, the components are screwed down with self tapping sheet metal screws .... and no bolts ... no machine nuts. I guess this has worked for Mesa for years, but over time, everything gets loose.

 

Locktite, by the way, is of no help.

 

Even items like heavy transformers are held in this manner.

 

I tear all my Mesa amps down, right to the chassis, three times a year, and reassemble them. That is the only method that has worked for me.

 

Mesa amps have a lot of nice features and sonic qualities, but they keep their costs down (if you think they are expensive, look at all the stuff inside for the dollar, and compare it to many "boutique" amps), but have to use faster production methods, and less expensive components. That is just the reality of economics.

 

Sometimes new tubes may help for a bit, as their frequency response may be in a less resonant area of your loose cab or parts.

 

The "motorboating" is usually either a bad V1 in your amp, or if Mesa STR420 tubes, a bad tube. There is also a bad run of Mesa STR454's (Their Svetlana 6L6).

 

The reverb issue is perhaps a leaking cap, which is also somewhat common as the caps in these amps are not all that pricy to start with.

 

Keep in touch and I will continue to try to help.

 

Make sure the amp is biased right (even though Mesa amps have a non-adjustable bias it should be checked), as you can only use a very narrow range of output tubes in the amps without having problems or bad sound.

[James-Italy]

Hi Myles,

 

I ordered the THD Univalve a few weeks ago after reading your comments and on the advice of some of the guys on this forum. It should be here next week... not many units get to Italy and it takes a while. I'm trying to digest the info on your site about tubes now that I'm getting this puppy. I'm sure I'll be back with some questions once I'm playing around with it.

 

My immediate problem is to make the

Marshall TSL122 amp work with the

Marshall SE100 attenuator/Cab simulator

without blowing anything.

 

It came to me when I ordered the THD to buy a powerbrake for the Marshall, but the local store didn't have any. They offered me a used SE100 for the equivalent of @$95. From what I've found on the net this is a great deal on an excellent piece of equipment. I'm scared of blowing something up though.

 

The TSL has 16ohm speakerout which plugs into the cab. It also has a switchable 4/8ohm out. The SE100 has a 8ohm Speakerin (from amp) and an undisclosed ohm speaker out (to cab). Do I plug the TSL 8ohm out into the 8ohm in on the SE100, then the Speakerout to the 2x12 Cab in the TSL? I figure the speakers are 16ohm and my gut tells me it's ok to configure like above. But my head tells me to be careful before I blow something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I don't like the VPR switch on the TSL122 which reduces it from a 100w to a 25w amp. I really do like the LineOut from the SE100 to my Mixer, but I only use the mixer in my basement studio. (I live on the 4th floor and play mostly in my apartment.)

 

Thanks in advance if you can help me. Even if you can't- Thanks a million for all your info, help, and time.

 

CIAO!

[myles_rose]

AgentOrange

 

If your problem went away for a while with the new Harma 6L6's and then came back, it is something else, first check the phase inverter, for now, just swap it with any other preamp tube when you have thr problem.

 

As far as a bias pot installed, this is a 3 minute deal once the chassis is out of the amp, so most techs if decent, would not charge all that much. If you were in my area, frankly, I would do it for nothing, as even the part is less than $2.00. If you amp is open already, this should be (at least to me), a very nominal charge, like maybe an extra $5.00 tops.

 

I am starting to play a bit with RFT's. Over here they run about $25.00 each. They are pretty nice, but in the same price range, or less, I prefer other NOS tubes which are more consistant. The RFT's are East German, and their steels were not as consistant than USA steel of the 50's, 60,s and 70's.

 

For a bit more, the NOS JAN Raytheon 12AX7s in grade 1, from the early 1960's, are a much better tube. They run $30-$35 or so.

 

NOS JAN GE 12AX7WA and the NOS GE 12AX7A.... I like these more also.

 

The great staple is still the NOS JAN Philips ECG 12AX7WA which are easy to find, and run less than $20 in most cases.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by James-Italy:

Hi Myles,

 

I ordered the THD Univalve a few weeks ago after reading your comments and on the advice of some of the guys on this forum. It should be here next week... not many units get to Italy and it takes a while. I'm trying to digest the info on your site about tubes now that I'm getting this puppy. I'm sure I'll be back with some questions once I'm playing around with it.

 

My immediate problem is to make the

Marshall TSL122 amp work with the

Marshall SE100 attenuator/Cab simulator

without blowing anything.

 

It came to me when I ordered the THD to buy a powerbrake for the Marshall, but the local store didn't have any. They offered me a used SE100 for the equivalent of @$95. From what I've found on the net this is a great deal on an excellent piece of equipment. I'm scared of blowing something up though.

 

The TSL has 16ohm speakerout which plugs into the cab. It also has a switchable 4/8ohm out. The SE100 has a 8ohm Speakerin (from amp) and an undisclosed ohm speaker out (to cab). Do I plug the TSL 8ohm out into the 8ohm in on the SE100, then the Speakerout to the 2x12 Cab in the TSL? I figure the speakers are 16ohm and my gut tells me it's ok to configure like above. But my head tells me to be careful before I blow something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I don't like the VPR switch on the TSL122 which reduces it from a 100w to a 25w amp. I really do like the LineOut from the SE100 to my Mixer, but I only use the mixer in my basement studio. (I live on the 4th floor and play mostly in my apartment.)

 

Thanks in advance if you can help me. Even if you can't- Thanks a million for all your info, help, and time.

 

CIAO!

James-Italy ....

 

I am sure you will go nuts with your Univalve. They are amazing amps.

 

If you want what is so far, a steal, to make your Univalve do almost everything, I have one tube set on ebay:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1782530048&rd=1 which has no bids yet (I have a $50 reserve on it, but at three times that, these are pretty cool tested tubes), and a few kits at a fixed price of $60 each ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1781128780&rd=1 ) that are smaller.

 

Your powerbrake will work fine with your amp, just realize that you are going to eat up output tubes much faster, and Marshall output transformers don't like to be run flat out for long periods of time. Keep feeling the output transformer of the amp, and if it starts to get hot ... back off.

 

Keep the impedance matched. If you are going to use a 8 ohm cab, set your amp to 8 ohms, the powerbrake to 8 ohms, etc.

[James-Italy]

Thanks Myles. I'm in Italy so Ebay is out for me. Luckily however, I'm coming to the states to visit the parents at Christmas. I'll go ahead and order a set from you anyway using my Mom's address and bring them back in a suitcase. Unless we can figure out some way to get them to Italy without paying 3 times the value at customs...

 

How much space do 10 tubes take up? I think I can fit them in a suitcase without the wife having a cow... Should I contact you by Email to special order a package for the sounds I'm looking for, or does the big set include it all?

[snake77]

Originally posted by myles111:

The GT E34Ls is a 30 watt EL-34. The others around these days and from the past are 25 watters. THEY REQUIRE A REBIAS.

 

If you can get this fellow to sell you four of the 6CA7's that are matched into a quad, these will be the best of all!

 

No preamp tubes made today will be matched over 85% of the time. It is just a matter of life these days.

My instructor gave me all of the 6CA7 tubes, but I don't know what the bias voltage is for this amp, and have called KorgUSA, West LA Music, Guitar Center, Advanced Electronics, and everyone else that I could source to find out what the grid bias voltage should be for these Westinghouse EL34 6CA7 tubes. I see the adjusting pot and can get help doing this, but all the schematics at marshallschematics.com and schematicheaven.com are for a newer 1988 version (one year later), and don't have many average or standard voltage readings that we could find. Any idea on how I can find this info out, or where I can purchase it? I would love to be able to handle and service this amp myself whenever tubes go bad, but I can't find this out for the life of me. Thank you very much for your previous post and advice, I am going to ditch the 7025s for some ECC84s ASAP!

 

Thanks again,

 

Jason

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by James-Italy:

Thanks Myles. I'm in Italy so Ebay is out for me. Luckily however, I'm coming to the states to visit the parents at Christmas. I'll go ahead and order a set from you anyway using my Mom's address and bring them back in a suitcase. Unless we can figure out some way to get them to Italy without paying 3 times the value at customs...

 

How much space do 10 tubes take up? I think I can fit them in a suitcase without the wife having a cow... Should I contact you by Email to special order a package for the sounds I'm looking for, or does the big set include it all?

James,

 

I don't remember what this was in reference to, but you can order any tubes globally from GT directly off their website.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by snake77:

Originally posted by myles111:

The GT E34Ls is a 30 watt EL-34. The others around these days and from the past are 25 watters. THEY REQUIRE A REBIAS.

 

If you can get this fellow to sell you four of the 6CA7's that are matched into a quad, these will be the best of all!

 

No preamp tubes made today will be matched over 85% of the time. It is just a matter of life these days.

My instructor gave me all of the 6CA7 tubes, but I don't know what the bias voltage is for this amp, and have called KorgUSA, West LA Music, Guitar Center, Advanced Electronics, and everyone else that I could source to find out what the grid bias voltage should be for these Westinghouse EL34 6CA7 tubes. I see the adjusting pot and can get help doing this, but all the schematics at marshallschematics.com and schematicheaven.com are for a newer 1988 version (one year later), and don't have many average or standard voltage readings that we could find. Any idea on how I can find this info out, or where I can purchase it? I would love to be able to handle and service this amp myself whenever tubes go bad, but I can't find this out for the life of me. Thank you very much for your previous post and advice, I am going to ditch the 7025s for some ECC84s ASAP!

 

Thanks again,

 

Jason

Jason,

 

Let me know your plate voltage and I will tell you where the bias should be set.

 

Nobody can tell you where the bias should be set ... it is different for every amp and every set of tubes.

 

To do this properly, I need to know your B+ voltage, and not off a print, but off the actual amp itself.

[michael saulnier]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by James-Italy:

Hi Myles,

 

I ordered the THD Univalve a few weeks ago after reading your comments and on the advice of some of the guys on this forum. It should be here next week... not many units get to Italy and it takes a while. I'm trying to digest the info on your site about tubes now that I'm getting this puppy. I'm sure I'll be back with some questions once I'm playing around with it.

 

My immediate problem is to make the

Marshall TSL122 amp work with the

Marshall SE100 attenuator/Cab simulator

without blowing anything.

 

It came to me when I ordered the THD to buy a powerbrake for the Marshall, but the local store didn't have any. They offered me a used SE100 for the equivalent of @$95. From what I've found on the net this is a great deal on an excellent piece of equipment. I'm scared of blowing something up though.

 

The TSL has 16ohm speakerout which plugs into the cab. It also has a switchable 4/8ohm out. The SE100 has a 8ohm Speakerin (from amp) and an undisclosed ohm speaker out (to cab). Do I plug the TSL 8ohm out into the 8ohm in on the SE100, then the Speakerout to the 2x12 Cab in the TSL? I figure the speakers are 16ohm and my gut tells me it's ok to configure like above. But my head tells me to be careful before I blow something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I don't like the VPR switch on the TSL122 which reduces it from a 100w to a 25w amp. I really do like the LineOut from the SE100 to my Mixer, but I only use the mixer in my basement studio. (I live on the 4th floor and play mostly in my apartment.)

 

Thanks in advance if you can help me. Even if you can't- Thanks a million for all your info, help, and time.

 

CIAO!

James-Italy ....

 

I am sure you will go nuts with your Univalve. They are amazing amps.

 

If you want what is so far, a steal, to make your Univalve do almost everything, I have one tube set on ebay:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1782530048&rd=1 which has no bids yet (I have a $50 reserve on it, but at three times that, these are pretty cool tested tubes), and a few kits at a fixed price of $60 each ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1781128780&rd=1 ) that are smaller.

 

Your powerbrake will work fine with your amp, just realize that you are going to eat up output tubes much faster, and Marshall output transformers don't like to be run flat out for long periods of time. Keep feeling the output transformer of the amp, and if it starts to get hot ... back off.

 

Keep the impedance matched. If you are going to use a 8 ohm cab, set your amp to 8 ohms, the powerbrake to 8 ohms, etc.

Myles,

 

I've bid on the 10 tube set... at your reserve price... this deal looks like it's MADE for me!

 

Now I've got to get a similar set of pre-amp tubes... do you have any thing like this?

 

guitplayer

[Dave da Dude]

Myles,

 

I'm planning on building a "Biasing Box" that I found on one of the many EFX sites so that it will be easier to bias my amp.

 

I'm also planning on (at the same time) adding two (2) more sockets in parallel (switched) to my amp ('93 Randall Tube Pro) so I can switch tubes back and forth (amp has a bias switch from 6L6 to EL34), even though you recommended against the complication (not the concept, I think).

 

more I'm a Mechanical Engineer, but I've got an Electrical Engineer (plays the drums in a church group with two or three guitars and acts as Sound Engr) to help me in designing and building (one of the few perks of being an engineer).

 

Sorry for the long intro, but I thought you needed the details. Now to my question.

 

Where can I buy eight pin tube sockets?

 

I tried Radio Shack, then PAiA. Radio Shack doesn't carry them and PAiA only had the nine pin sockets (preamp I think). He suggested Nusensor, but I couldn't find them with a search engine or with Thomas Register online.

 

BTW, a great big THANKS to PAiA (as well as Myles, as always) for sending me a few diodes (that I couldn't find any place else) for FREE!! Just because I couldn't build an order big enough without the tube sockets.

 

Dave

[Bob Mattscheck]

I read some of your postings on the Harmony Central amp discussion forum about NOS tubes. Very informative, it lead me to check out your web site. I am thinking of retubing my amp (a Mesa Blue Angel 1x12 combo) and have been checking out the tube offerings from KCA, Watford Valves, Groove Tubes, etc. along with the technical info and reviews. Needless to say, I think my brain is on information overload and I am more confused than shall I say enlightened. I saw on your web page in the section about the amps that you use, that you also have a Mesa Blue Angel. I am hoping that you might be able to suggest what type of tubes would sound good in this amp. I would say that I might be similar to you in my playing style in that I am also kind of limited. I play what I would describe as harder edge blues. Although, I would not concider me to a particularly good guitar player (I do enjoy it immensely, though), I appreciate good tone...you know, the eternal search. Anyway back to my question, I currently have the stock Mesa tubes in and would like to change all, preamp poweramp (6V6 & El-84) and rectifier tubes. I was looking at the GT SAG matched pre and power amp tubes and would be interested in your comments on what would be a good selection, either NOS or current production or even if you think the stock Mesa tubes would be good for this. I hope you will be able to respond to this inquiry and much thanks for any info and insight. By the way, I noticed that you said you worked for Apple Computer in the 80's. I was also at Apple in '79 and '80 at their Cupertino campus. Small world. If you feel this question is of general use, please feel free to post it in any of your discussion forums. Thanks again...nice pic's of your airplanes, too.

 

Sincerely,

Robert Mattscheck

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dave th Dude:

Myles,

 

I'm planning on building a "Biasing Box" that I found on one of the many EFX sites so that it will be easier to bias my amp.

 

I'm also planning on (at the same time) adding two (2) more sockets in parallel (switched) to my amp ('93 Randall Tube Pro) so I can switch tubes back and forth (amp has a bias switch from 6L6 to EL34), even though you recommended against the complication (not the concept, I think).

 

more I'm a Mechanical Engineer, but I've got an Electrical Engineer (plays the drums in a church group with two or three guitars and acts as Sound Engr) to help me in designing and building (one of the few perks of being an engineer).

 

Sorry for the long intro, but I thought you needed the details. Now to my question.

 

Where can I buy eight pin tube sockets?

 

I tried Radio Shack, then PAiA. Radio Shack doesn't carry them and PAiA only had the nine pin sockets (preamp I think). He suggested Nusensor, but I couldn't find them with a search engine or with Thomas Register online.

 

BTW, a great big THANKS to PAiA (as well as Myles, as always) for sending me a few diodes (that I couldn't find any place else) for FREE!! Just because I couldn't build an order big enough without the tube sockets.

 

Dave

Dave,

 

Building a bias tool? Why, when there are so many available, such as ours:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

 

You will also find sockets there.

 

I'm also planning on (at the same time) adding two (2) more sockets in parallel (switched) to my amp ('93 Randall Tube Pro) so I can switch tubes back and forth (amp has a bias switch from 6L6 to EL34), even though you recommended against the complication (not the concept, I think).

 

..... why add two more sockets? Your power supply will not handle it, and the heater current will be too high.

 

.... bottom line, an expensive idea that has little merit other than a fun construction project is nothing good is on TV.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bob Mattscheck:

I read some of your postings on the Harmony Central amp discussion forum about NOS tubes. Very informative, it lead me to check out your web site. I am thinking of retubing my amp (a Mesa Blue Angel 1x12 combo) and have been checking out the tube offerings from KCA, Watford Valves, Groove Tubes, etc. along with the technical info and reviews. Needless to say, I think my brain is on information overload and I am more confused than shall I say enlightened. I saw on your web page in the section about the amps that you use, that you also have a Mesa Blue Angel. I am hoping that you might be able to suggest what type of tubes would sound good in this amp. I would say that I might be similar to you in my playing style in that I am also kind of limited. I play what I would describe as harder edge blues. Although, I would not concider me to a particularly good guitar player (I do enjoy it immensely, though), I appreciate good tone...you know, the eternal search. Anyway back to my question, I currently have the stock Mesa tubes in and would like to change all, preamp poweramp (6V6 & El-84) and rectifier tubes. I was looking at the GT SAG matched pre and power amp tubes and would be interested in your comments on what would be a good selection, either NOS or current production or even if you think the stock Mesa tubes would be good for this. I hope you will be able to respond to this inquiry and much thanks for any info and insight. By the way, I noticed that you said you worked for Apple Computer in the 80's. I was also at Apple in '79 and '80 at their Cupertino campus. Small world. If you feel this question is of general use, please feel free to post it in any of your discussion forums. Thanks again...nice pic's of your airplanes, too.

 

Sincerely,

Robert Mattscheck

Robert ....

 

Thanks for the compliments ....

 

On to your Blue Angel, your 1x12 version is actually the best version, to my way of thinking anyway. The sound of a single 12 with less phase cancellation of 2 or 4 10's, lends itself to more versitility.

 

I have a number of clients with Blue Angels, and they are pretty darn easy to tweek, without changing anything long term.

 

In V1 and V2, I like JAN Philips 12AX7's or any NOS 12AX7 ... GE .... RCA ... talk to Mike at KCA or Charlie at Vacuum Tube Valley. For new tubes, I use the GT 7025's. The picture here shows the gray plate version, but the latest runs went back to the silver smooth plates ( http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1588 ) which are super. I have the latest tests on these (finished today) at: http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/12ax7.html at the end of that section.

 

Throw out the stock Sovtek 6V6's. They are awful. All of the amps I support use at the minimum:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1160 in a number 5 rating.

 

I am currently using http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1847 in my own Blue Angel. I don't have many of these left, some are also on ebay, but when they are gone, I don't know when I may be able to get others.

 

KCA has a lot of great NOS 6V6's also.

 

On the EL-84 set, again, the Sovtek's that are stock, are actually very dark, something like a wet blanket was thrown over your speaker cabinet. For this spot, you have only two choices. JJ EL-84's:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1687 ... again in a #5 or #6, or

 

JJ EL-84's from Bob Pletka at www.eurotubes.com

 

Bob will send you a perfect rating for your amp.

 

OR >>>>>

 

from KCA ....

 

NOS JAN Philips ECG (Emporium PA)-------------------------------$ 75 Per matched pair

Great sounding in guitar amps! Very few remaining in stock.-------------------$ 160 Per matched quartet

 

These are pretty fantastic, and the Angel, if the mid is kept below 9 o'clock and you use input 2, has a gain structure that loves the response and curves of these particular tubes.

 

Pricy .... sure, but will last about 2 times longer in the Angel than most new tubes.

 

Mike at KCA also has the JJ's and some other nice NOS:

 

JJ Tesla EL84------------------------------------------------------------ $ 20Per matched pair

------------------------------------------------------------------------------$ 40 Per matched quartet

 

NOS GE 6BQ5/EL84----------------------------------------------------$ 75 Per matched pair

------------------------------------------------------------------------------$ 150 Per matched quartet

 

Over at Vacuum Tube Valley (http://www.vacuumtube.com/guitar.htm) Charlie has some really prime EL-84's ....

 

Mullard EL84!!! (Philips Box) CV2975/7189 NOS/NIB A super performance version of the Mullard EL84/7189. These are sweet, powerful and extremely musical. This is very desirable EL84 variant. Great for Boogie, Bruno, Dr. Z, Marshall, Budda, and Vox guitar amps. We now have these in matched pairs and quads. Awesome in your EL84 guitar or hi-fi tube amps! British made with Philips logo and box. Made in Blackburn, UK the Mullard factory! $150/matched pair

$300/matched quad

 

JAN/Philips EL84 One of the best sounding EL84 6BQ5 types available in matched pairs and quads. Super performance in high-quality boutique guitar amps and vintage audio equipment. $40 each, $80 matched pair or $160 matched quad

 

That should give you a bit to ponder....

 

As far as Apple .... I worked for Alan Kay, down here in So Cal. I was Apple's music consultant on the Vivarium Project. My sister, you may have known, Kim Rose, or perhaps Laurie Weiss, also at Apple at the time.

 

On the airplanes, that is my relaxing time, I guess one could say. I am currently flying the SU-26 more than the others, even though it is not the latest generation.

[Dave da Dude]

Myles,

 

Quote: "..... why add two more sockets? Your power supply will not handle it, and the heater current will be too high."

 

Only one set of two will be "running" at any one time. Manual switch from 6L6 circuit to EL34 circuit. Change without letting the tubes cool to pull them out of the sockets.

 

Dave.

[Bob Mattscheck]

Hey Myles, thanks for the info on tubes for my Blue Angel. With all the questions you get on this forum, I am impressed on how quickly you responded to my inquiry. Way to go! I am going to take your suggestion and try to obtain some NOS JAN Phillips 12ax7 pre amp tubes. I checked out KCA and Watford Valves but haven't looked at Vacum Tube Valley yet. The prices don't seem too bad. As for the power tubes, I think I'm going to try to run down some RCA 6V6 Blackplates. I hear they are the "creme de la creme" of 6V6's. As I usually use the 6V6 setting about 80-90% of the time, I feel it would be worth the money. I get a lot of use from that setting. With the EL-84's, I'm not sure yet. I don't use that setting too often so I just might go with the JJ/Tesla tubes and save a few bucks (what...about a $100 or so?). Otherwise, I might spring for the NOS JAN Phillip ECG or the NOS GE's. Not sure yet. I have another couple of questions about the Blue Angel. I have a rattling rectifier tube and need to replace it. What type (brand) would you suggest for that? Now being not so technically knowledgeable about amps, I hope this next question isn't too lame. Which sockets are the V1 and V2 sockets in the Blue Angel? Are they the first two sockets on the left as you are looking in the back of the amp? There are 5 preamp tubes, should they all be the same as V1 & V2? Also, I believe this amp is cathode biased since it is "pure class A" according to the Mesa literature. Does this mean I can plug in tubes and play without re-biasing? Hopefully...I like things simple. I don't know if I knew your sister when I was at Apple, did she work in Cupertino in '79 & '80? We only had about 400 employees at the time (I was #383). However I do believe I knew a gal named Laurie from the marketing department but I don't know if her last name was Weis (I worked in the customer service department in Wil Houde's group). Anyway, mucho thanks for all the help and info on my amp. Peace. Robert

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dave th Dude:

Myles,

 

Quote: "..... why add two more sockets? Your power supply will not handle it, and the heater current will be too high."

 

Only one set of two will be "running" at any one time. Manual switch from 6L6 circuit to EL34 circuit. Change without letting the tubes cool to pull them out of the sockets.

 

Dave.

Dave,

 

I'd pass on this idea. You would still have a number of other issues that would be a lot of buck for little bang.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bob Mattscheck:

Hey Myles, thanks for the info on tubes for my Blue Angel. With all the questions you get on this forum, I am impressed on how quickly you responded to my inquiry. Way to go! I am going to take your suggestion and try to obtain some NOS JAN Phillips 12ax7 pre amp tubes. I checked out KCA and Watford Valves but haven't looked at Vacum Tube Valley yet. The prices don't seem too bad. As for the power tubes, I think I'm going to try to run down some RCA 6V6 Blackplates. I hear they are the "creme de la creme" of 6V6's. As I usually use the 6V6 setting about 80-90% of the time, I feel it would be worth the money. I get a lot of use from that setting. With the EL-84's, I'm not sure yet. I don't use that setting too often so I just might go with the JJ/Tesla tubes and save a few bucks (what...about a $100 or so?). Otherwise, I might spring for the NOS JAN Phillip ECG or the NOS GE's. Not sure yet. I have another couple of questions about the Blue Angel. I have a rattling rectifier tube and need to replace it. What type (brand) would you suggest for that? Now being not so technically knowledgeable about amps, I hope this next question isn't too lame. Which sockets are the V1 and V2 sockets in the Blue Angel? Are they the first two sockets on the left as you are looking in the back of the amp? There are 5 preamp tubes, should they all be the same as V1 & V2? Also, I believe this amp is cathode biased since it is "pure class A" according to the Mesa literature. Does this mean I can plug in tubes and play without re-biasing? Hopefully...I like things simple. I don't know if I knew your sister when I was at Apple, did she work in Cupertino in '79 & '80? We only had about 400 employees at the time (I was #383). However I do believe I knew a gal named Laurie from the marketing department but I don't know if her last name was Weis (I worked in the customer service department in Wil Houde's group). Anyway, mucho thanks for all the help and info on my amp. Peace. Robert

Robert ....

 

The RCA Blackplates are nice in the BA, but because of the output transformer and other aspects of the amp, such as the front end gain structure and tone stack in general, you hit the laws of diminishing returns faster with this amp. You can use less expensive gray plates and have the same result for the most part.

 

The UK Haltrons are great in the BA. They are sort of a Tung Sol licensed tube from the past.

 

I also use the 6V6 setting, almost exclusively, but then again, the 6V6 is my favorite output tube.

 

On the JJ EL-84's, you will be nowhere close to $100.00 ... less than 1/2 of that for a quad of new JJ's or GT's.

 

The rectifier .... use:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1182

 

This is a new tooling part that is working really nicely, and not expensive. It is much nicer than the older Chinese GZ34 / 5AR4.

 

Toward the front of the amp, there ia row of tubes behind the EL-84 set. The one the closest to the right ( looking from the back of the cabinet), is V1, with V2, V3, etc., counting toward the left side of the amp.

 

This amp is pure class A, (but at higher levels, goes into push-pull A/B like a Vox AC30 etc). It is cathode biased, and no bias adjustment is necessary. BUT .... tubes spread a lot of ranges of draw, and in the BA, you want a nice mid range tube, or it will get too hot too fast ... a cold tube will be grainy. Make sure you ask for a mid range draw tube. This would be like a GT #5 or #6. If you go to Eurotubes, Bob Pletka knows about this already and is great at Mesa amps. If you use Watford in the UK., they will also do this correctly if you tell them you have a Mesa BA.

 

My sister was down in Los Angeles all the time, but made trips up North on a regular basis. She worked directly for Alan Kay, who had the office in L.A. My sister's last name is Rose, but a friend of her's also at Apple was Lori or Laury or Laurie Weiss.

[Bob Mattscheck]

Hi Myles, hope you had a good weekend. Thanks again for your responce to my questions about my Blue Angel. I am going to take your suggestion and use a JAN Phillips 12ax7 in sockets V1 & V2. However, what would you suggest for the remaining preamp positions (V3 thru V5)? Do I need to use the same type in the rest of the sockets or does it really matter. Could I use JJ's for the remaining sockets, for example, to save a few bucks or should I stick with JAN Phillips? Also, I checked with Mike at KCA and he had some NOS Brimar 6V6 GTY's at $58 /matched pair. I am looking for something other than the RCA Blackplates per your suggestion and was wondering what you thought of these. I hear they are pretty nice tubes. How would they work in the Blue Angel? By the way, I checked out Bob Pletka's site at www.eurotubes.com and will probably go with some of his JJ EL-84's. You said he matches his stuff real well and is experienced with the Mesa amps so I think I will give him a try. Again, thanks for all you help and suggestions. You 'da man! . Take care.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bob Mattscheck:

Hi Myles, hope you had a good weekend. Thanks again for your responce to my questions about my Blue Angel. I am going to take your suggestion and use a JAN Phillips 12ax7 in sockets V1 & V2. However, what would you suggest for the remaining preamp positions (V3 thru V5)? Do I need to use the same type in the rest of the sockets or does it really matter. Could I use JJ's for the remaining sockets, for example, to save a few bucks or should I stick with JAN Phillips? Also, I checked with Mike at KCA and he had some NOS Brimar 6V6 GTY's at $58 /matched pair. I am looking for something other than the RCA Blackplates per your suggestion and was wondering what you thought of these. I hear they are pretty nice tubes. How would they work in the Blue Angel? By the way, I checked out Bob Pletka's site at www.eurotubes.com and will probably go with some of his JJ EL-84's. You said he matches his stuff real well and is experienced with the Mesa amps so I think I will give him a try. Again, thanks for all you help and suggestions. You 'da man! . Take care.

Bob,

 

You are more than welcome.....

 

The JAN 12AX7's work very nicely in your amp.

 

On the remaining tubes, other than V5, they are not all that critical as they are drivers, and not part of the tone stage (they are for reverb drivers and effects loop). On V5, use a matched phase inverter, this is a big help on your amp, as it is a driver for the output set.

 

On the Brimar's .... a lot of folks like those a lot, and they are less pricy than RCA NOS.

 

With 6V6's it boils down to personal taste.